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Bighorn Origin Build Thread

I have an odd question…. Being that the Origin is a budget action, why do I see so many origins dressed up with top shelf scopes, chassis systems, and barrels? I understand the top actions are no more accurate, but if you’re dropping that kinda coin on everything else , why not drop another 3-500$ on a premier action to go with it?

Coming from the guy who had an Origin and loves it….
 
I have an odd question…. Being that the Origin is a budget action, why do I see so many origins dressed up with top shelf scopes, chassis systems, and barrels? I understand the top actions are no more accurate, but if you’re dropping that kinda coin on everything else , why not drop another 3-500$ on a premier action to go with it?

Coming from the guy who had an Origin and loves it….
I’ve seen some pretty wild builds with the origin being the heart, granted it’s a “budget” action but with the recoil lug from hunts long range it opens up the world of TL3 prefit. There is a guy locally to me that running one with a Zco in a beautiful manners stock that wanted a tl3 but couldn’t justify the price increase since the origin is so rock solid.
 
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I have an odd question…. Being that the Origin is a budget action, why do I see so many origins dressed up with top shelf scopes, chassis systems, and barrels? I understand the top actions are no more accurate, but if you’re dropping that kinda coin on everything else , why not drop another 3-500$ on a premier action to go with it?

Coming from the guy who had an Origin and loves it….

I don't think of an Origin as a "budget action" at all.

I've looked at and could/can afford anything out there... the Origin had/has what I was looking for (and/plus I prefer a swept handle).

An integral recoil lug is the only thing it lacks, and while some guys think an integral lug is important... I'm not one of those guys, I don't think it matters one bit, sandwiched under ~80 foot-pounds it's not going anywhere. In fact, I picked up a Hunt's Long Range recoil lug so I can also use TL3 barrels if an Origin one isn't out there (not to mention Savage-thread barrels using a barrel-nut, which are an option as well).
 
I’ve seen some pretty wild builds with the origin being the heart, granted it’s a “budget” action but with the recoil lug from hunts long range it opens up the world of TL3 prefit. There is a guy locally to me that running one with a Zco in a beautiful manners stock that wanted a tl3 but couldn’t justify the price increase since the origin is so rock solid.

I wanted flexibility. I don't shoot benchrest or FClass. Thus, all Gucci Stainless actions were out. Titanium is not for me.
- I wanted a good action with CRF.
- I did not want to be wedded to a built in Pic Rail. Took it off and currently have one piece Rings/bases on it.
- It had to be able to use a prefit. The ability to use a Savage barrel nut barrel was a bonus.
- could care less about the recoil lug.
 
I love my origin, on its 3rd or 4th barrel. It can bind if you side load the bolt like a knuckle dragging retard, but don't do that shit, and it's stupid smooth. I actually prefer it over my tl3 or Ti3, as it has proper 0.240 pin fall VS the tl3s 0.195 for more consistent ignition, the only downfall is a bit heavier bolt lift. Non integral lug or Pic rail who cares, gives a man options down the road. I personally recommend origin to anyone looking to get into an entry level rifle for it's modest price, flexibility and build quality.
 
My modest origin build:

Manners LRH in GAP camo w/ full length Manners ARCA rail

Hawkins Hunter DBM with SA mag flush mag

Gold TriggerTech 2 stage

24” Carbon 6 barrel chambered in 6.5prc

TBAC Ultra 9 pictured, got my Magnus out of jail earlier this week so it will be sporting that from now on.

TBAC bipod

Junk ass Arken EP5

IMG_1006.jpeg
 
Anyone ever convert a Origin to a straight bolt handle? Wondering how much work to weld an Origin bolt up/re-configure and drill-thread for a TL3 style straight drop bolt handle.
 
Anyone ever convert a Origin to a straight bolt handle? Wondering how much work to weld an Origin bolt up/re-configure and drill-thread for a TL3 style straight drop bolt handle.
I’ve never seen/heard of anybody doing that but I guess it’s possible if you’ve got the time and skill.
 
If I wanted an Origin with a straight bolt handle, I'd just buy a TL3.

Anyone own both, how different are the bolts anyways?
I haven’t had a TL3 since they started being DLCd out of the gate. But i had a TL3, built dads gun on an SR3, and my brother has an origin.

I had my TL3 cerakoted. It was alright. I had dads receiver DLCd and it feels alright nothing like my tempest. And my brothers is factory and honestly i felt it was the smoothest between the 3. I just have never liked the way the NP3 coating felt tbh. Just never seemed to glide like my other actions.
 
I meant how different are the two bolt’s dimensions..?

Close/not the same at all/interchangeable..?
 
If I wanted an Origin with a straight bolt handle, I'd just buy a TL3.

Anyone own both, how different are the bolts anyways?
As ray stated they are completely different, I own both and thought it would be cool if the bolts bodies were interchangeable. I think I tried to swap the bodies and it’s was an instant nope that’s not going to work.
 
As ray stated they are completely different, I own both and thought it would be cool if the bolts bodies were interchangeable. I think I tried to swap the bodies and it’s was an instant nope that’s not going to work.
I looked at that as well, no go. I have a couple Origins and a TL3 that I love and use. Seems like I have more stocks that accept straight bolt handles than stocks for swept ones. Was just wondering if swept handle could be converted so I could swaps stocks out easier for diff rifle uses (thermal yotes/long range match/etc.).
 
I looked at that as well, no go. I have a couple Origins and a TL3 that I love and use. Seems like I have more stocks that accept straight bolt handles than stocks for swept ones. Was just wondering if swept handle could be converted so I could swaps stocks out easier for diff rifle uses (thermal yotes/long range match/etc.).
I'm sure a competent gunsmith/machinist could, either by milling off the swept part of the handle and TIG welding a new piece on straight, then contouring, polishing and refinishing or by cutting it off, retapping and inserting a 5/8-24 thread stud to reattach a bolt handle. It might be difficult to match the finish on the rest of the receiver is the only issue I can think of.
 
I'm sure a competent gunsmith/machinist could, either by milling off the swept part of the handle and TIG welding a new piece on straight, then contouring, polishing and refinishing or by cutting it off, retapping and inserting a 5/8-24 thread stud to reattach a bolt handle. It might be difficult to match the finish on the rest of the receiver is the only issue I can think of.

Try reading.
Ray’s post is 941.
Your’s is 944.



Not the same at all. The TL3 and Origin have different bolt bodies completely.

Thanks - Ray
 
Try reading.
Ray’s post is 941.
Your’s is 944.
YOU try reading, I was saying that a swept bolt HANDLE could be changed to a straight bolt handle (the comment I replied to) by doing one of those methods. I didn't say anything about changing the bolts completely. Just the handle, so you could have the same straight bolt handle on both actions, regardless of other specs.
 
since you want to be dense this is Ray, and he designed/makes the actions.
I know who Ray is, and he's awesome. Please go reread who I was commenting towards and what I actually said.

I said, it IS possible to have a gunsmith/machinist replace the bolt HANDLE by cutting it off and rewelding a new one on, and/or making a threaded insert that changes the angle of the bolt knob. That doesn't change the bolt body dimensions, or insinuate in any way that one could use a TL3 bolt in an Origin or vice versa.
 
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We live in a modern era of machining and engineering...pretty much anything is possible.

The question should more or less be: is it worth it to have a bolt manufactured to fit a certain receiver? Or, does it make more sense to have a product with mostly the same features for $400 more?

That's up to the owner of the action. We're not making straight bolt handled bolts for the Origin. That doesn't mean it can't be done.

It's generally not a good practice to shut down ideas. Even if they seem crazy on the surface, there could be merit to something inside of that idea.

Thanks - Ray
 
🤣🤣🤣

Ray.

Do you have kids?

Sometimes ideas need shut down. 🤣
Morons on the internet (me looking in the mirror here) 100% need it sometimes.

I dont shut them all down. Trust me.
Ice cream? Venison steak tacos? More BBQ ribs?
Maybe why I am the grumpy fat dad…..


Perhaps I was overzealous.
It has happened before.
No beer involved, just being overly aggressive.
It happens. Movin on.


All that work is going to create heat.
I would guess more than say the normal TIG of bolt welding work on a Rem 700 from AccuTig or LRI.


Easiest way I can see is to TIG fill the hole the bolt handle stud goes into on the bolt handle.
Then machine it and make a straight hole.
Even with a heat sink on the bolt to keep it from spreading, not sure what happens right there….

What will that heat do?

1: Im not rich enough to find out if it goes wrong.
2: I like the swept handle personally.
 
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Has anyone put together/run an Origin with 6ARC..?

How's it going, which mags, how does it feed..?
Fella at my last match was shooting an origin in 6arc, mdt mags. He never had any feed issues, and surprisingly shot really well in some funky winds with factory ammo. It was in an xlr element chassis.
 
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We live in a modern era of machining and engineering...pretty much anything is possible.

The question should more or less be: is it worth it to have a bolt manufactured to fit a certain receiver? Or, does it make more sense to have a product with mostly the same features for $400 more?

That's up to the owner of the action. We're not making straight bolt handled bolts for the Origin. That doesn't mean it can't be done.
Now that is a sound point, as always.

Just because you can, doesn't mean you should....
 
I personally think the newer origins feel a lil better than the old ones. My first was purchased in 2018, and got another last year. The newer one feels a bit smoother out the box than my old one that has had near 5k rounds through it.
 
I personally think the newer origins feel a lil better than the old ones. My first was purchased in 2018, and got another last year. The newer one feels a bit smoother out the box than my old one that has had near 5k rounds through it.

Stainless vs. 4140 receiver maybe?
 
Stainless vs. 4140 receiver maybe?
Perhaps. I know the first few years were 4140 with dlc bolt and nitride body(could be reversed, but I know dis-similar coatings) and the stainless may now have a different coating system. But I personally feel the new one runs a lil smoother than my old one. Both great actions along with my tl3.
 
Perhaps. I know the first few years were 4140 with dlc bolt and nitride body(could be reversed, but I know dis-similar coatings) and the stainless may now have a different coating system. But I personally feel the new one runs a lil smoother than my old one. Both great actions along with my tl3.
I know my second one in 2021 had a slightly different firing pin sear that reduced cock on close compared to my first from not that log after introduction. I emailed customer support asking about it and they sent me the new version baronet assembly to swap out for my first. Now both are silky smooth (though I didnt mind a bit of positive cocking).

New on the left, old on the right
F6EEEF04-6246-4D2D-AF4C-7E41705A5A5E.jpeg

576A9FB1-5B03-4A69-A334-D08A4F68DBFA.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I know my second one in 2021 had a slightly different firing pin sear that reduced cock on close compared to my first from not that log after introduction. I emailed customer support asking about it and they sent me the new version baronet assembly to swap out for my first. Now both are silky smooth (though I didnt mind a bit of positive cocking).

New on the left, old on the right
View attachment 8156197
My first origin had the original cocking piece, and with a TT diamond it felt bad compared to a properly timed action. Ray hooked me up with a new assembly that had 15-20k cut from cocking piece and that helped tremendously! The new one with a TT special installed feels very good as well. A BixnAndy will still give a lil cock on close, but it's very minimal.
 
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My first origin had the original cocking piece, and with a TT diamond it felt bad compared to a properly timed action. Ray hooked me up with a new assembly that had 15-20k cut from cocking piece and that helped tremendously! The new one with a TT special installed feels very good as well. A BixnAndy will still give a lil cock on close, but it's very minimal.
Well damn, guess thats not the difference in feel you noticed then. Must be the different metals and treatment thereof.
 
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Well damn, guess thats not the difference in feel you noticed then. Must be the different metals and treatment thereof.
It's when cycling the bolt. Its odd the new one actually feels slightly more rough(wrong word, but like you feel what would be like a texture almost) when running the bolt, but it has less tendency try and bind up, you can side load and it just glides through, the older one, if you're running bolt perfect with zero bind, feels like glass, but if you're running fast and hard and not perfect manipulation, it sometimes exhibits sticky/bind feeling. Lesson here: don't run bolt like a retard and all is good. I'm still very happy with both of them, just an observation running them both side by side along with my tl3.
 
I know my second one in 2021 had a slightly different firing pin sear that reduced cock on close compared to my first from not that log after introduction. I emailed customer support asking about it and they sent me the new version baronet assembly to swap out for my first. Now both are silky smooth (though I didnt mind a bit of positive cocking).

New on the left, old on the right
View attachment 8156197
View attachment 8156204
My first origin was serial #6, I sold it a few years ago. I bought another origin a year ago and thought it had a different feel to it then my original one. Glad you confirmed my suspicions.
 
807E068B-34C6-4269-942A-9B74D73ED9F3.jpeg

Origin short action
Pva heavy Palma in .223 cerakoted od green
McMillan a3-5 in Forest camo
Tt diamond 2 stage
Altus cal bipod
Kmw gen2 bottom metal
Leupold mark 5 pr2 mil
Arc m brace rings
Pva jet last not pictured
Tbac ultra 7 in jail

Worked up an accurate load with varget but it’s a little slow, going to grab some other powders and fool around to try to find an accurate fast load, and try varget in the faster velocities again as I have floated the barrel and bolt handle more and bedded the action since I did the original load development.
 
9B02B4A4-C234-480D-81D2-0BDCD4A45807.jpeg

6.5 PRC
Bighorn Origin SA LH
22” Proof 1:8
TT Diamond
Mesa Altitude Stock
ARC M Brace Rings
Kahles 3-12x50

76E62C2A-9FE4-4B96-A29E-DCC32FB2DB9E.jpeg

308 Win
Bighorn Origin SA RH
20” Proof 1:10 w TiPro3 Brake
TT Special
Manners EH1 w/ Mini Chasis
ARC M Brace Rings
Kahles 3.6-18x50

D6B84457-BF88-4F0A-A1DC-3ABB7C1B46D2.jpeg

7mm Rem Mag w/ +P Chamber
Bighorn Origin LA RH
24” Proof 1:8.4 w DE Mini Slab Brake
TT Special
Manners TA w/ Mini Chasis
ARC M Brace Rings
Kahles 6-24x56
 
My second Origin build. It will be used for centerfire training PRS and occasional TAC division matches. Save barrel life on my 6mm creedmoor setup almost identically.

Zermatt Origin SA .223 boltface
MPA Matrix Pro in gunmetal cerakote
Bartlein 26 inch heavy palma chambered in .223 Rem by Southern Precision rifles for Bug Nut
APA Little Bastard muzzle brake
Triggertech Diamond single stage flat
MPA BA Scope mount 0moa 1.125
Vortex Razor Gen III 6-36x56 mrad
Area 419 17 inch universal Arcalock rail
Gray Ops CNC internal (5) and 2 external steel weights


PRS Trainer Rifle 223.jpg
 
My second Origin build. It will be used for centerfire training PRS and occasional TAC division matches. Save barrel life on my 6mm creedmoor setup almost identically.

Zermatt Origin SA .223 boltface
MPA Matrix Pro in gunmetal cerakote
Bartlein 26 inch heavy palma chambered in .223 Rem by Southern Precision rifles for Bug Nut
APA Little Bastard muzzle brake
Triggertech Diamond single stage flat
MPA BA Scope mount 0moa 1.125
Vortex Razor Gen III 6-36x56 mrad
Area 419 17 inch universal Arcalock rail
Gray Ops CNC internal (5) and 2 external steel weights


View attachment 8187415
How does that 223 feed? I have a origin SA in 223, and it feeds reliably if I run the bolt fast, but if I run the bolt slow, the bolt face face won’t grab the round and it pops out and jams.
 
How does that 223 feed? I have a origin SA in 223, and it feeds reliably if I run the bolt fast, but if I run the bolt slow, the bolt face face won’t grab the round and it pops out and jams.
My set up is a little bit different from the poster above. It's has a .223 proof barrel and is in an XRS chassis but it runs fine with plastic MDT mags.
 
How does that 223 feed? I have a origin SA in 223, and it feeds reliably if I run the bolt fast, but if I run the bolt slow, the bolt face face won’t grab the round and it pops out and jams.

I haven't had the opportunity to try it yet. I'm planning to shoot it over the weekend and I'll find out. I've got MDT steel and poly mags to test.
 
Have you tried the MDT steel mags?
I’m currently running accurate mags (metal) with a SA origin in 223 in a mpa comp.

The plastic mdt mags didn’t feed great. The accurate feed reliably provided I run the bolt FAST. If I pissy the foot and run it slow, the bolt face just pops the round out and it jams up.

I have the mag catch all the way up so that the bolt is nearly kissing the feed lips. Can’t seem to figure out the slow feeding .
 
I ran the accu mags in my mpa and mdt acc no problems with an origin
 
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