Took a scrap piece of 1/4” ss tubing, welded a ss dowel pin in the end, drilled two small holes through the tube (for a total of 4 holes) and put a swage to 1/4” NPT fitting on the other end. This should connect to the pressure washer qd fitting. I will report back when I try it out.- Thread starter Lunchbox27
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Took a scrap piece of 1/4” ss tubing, welded a ss dowel pin in the end, drilled two small holes through the tube (for a total of 4 holes) and put a swage to 1/4” NPT fitting on the other end. This should connect to the pressure washer qd fitting. I will report back when I try it out.
When they first came out with this stuff, I emailed them and asked if there was a money back guarantee.
Never heard back
Never heard back
?? Really wrong thread. Did you mean to post this here?
If I had to guess, he’s wondering how much buildup/weight is in it
I guess I could’ve started with “since some of you guys were talking about weighing cans” related to the need for cleaning them…
The specs on SiCo’s site do not state the configuration for whatever weight is provided.
Anyway, thanks to @Lunchbox27 for the review! There was some discussion about this boretech product coming to market in another thread about cleaning years ago. Glad to see it come to market and that it works.
I’m going to get some to try to get the carbon out of my comps, on my USPSA “open” guns.
I’ve tried about every other chemical and the only thing that has worked for me is scraping
I’ve tried about every other chemical and the only thing that has worked for me is scraping
Any update on "the pig dick"?View attachment 8295108I made what I shall call “the pig dick” today
Never thought in my life I'd type a sentence like that
Did someone get a video of the pressure washer wand in action?
Not yet, it may be a while since I just cleaned my dirtiest can recently.
This stuff works really well!
Tried it over the weekend on my DA Mask HD. Had a lot of rounds through it, not sure how many, but it was at the point where the baffle stack couldn't be pushed out anymore. After soaked for around a day in part A, they just slid out and a lot of the carbon was mush. Rinsed it off and scrubbed a bit with a plastic brush. There were still a lot of hard carbon deposits all over it. So, I soaked it again for a day in part B. When I opened it this time, a lot of carbon crumbs fell out. It was around 90% clean, but still had some hard deposits. So, I did another round of each. After the second round of part B, the can looked brand new.
I was re-using the solution, just adding a bit to top it up the second time around. Still worked great.
I wouldn't bother with it on a can or parts that are CLR safe (I know the Mask is, but wanted to try it on a really dirty can). It's great for parts you can't use CLR on though. Betting it would clean muzzle brake really well too.
Tried it over the weekend on my DA Mask HD. Had a lot of rounds through it, not sure how many, but it was at the point where the baffle stack couldn't be pushed out anymore. After soaked for around a day in part A, they just slid out and a lot of the carbon was mush. Rinsed it off and scrubbed a bit with a plastic brush. There were still a lot of hard carbon deposits all over it. So, I soaked it again for a day in part B. When I opened it this time, a lot of carbon crumbs fell out. It was around 90% clean, but still had some hard deposits. So, I did another round of each. After the second round of part B, the can looked brand new.
I was re-using the solution, just adding a bit to top it up the second time around. Still worked great.
I wouldn't bother with it on a can or parts that are CLR safe (I know the Mask is, but wanted to try it on a really dirty can). It's great for parts you can't use CLR on though. Betting it would clean muzzle brake really well too.
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