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Gunsmithing brass sticking in chamber

ericf

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
May 27, 2007
81
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65
texas gulf coast (Pasadena)
I have a GAP 308 I purchased from another member here. Very nice rifle. One caveat, My loads seem to stick in the chamber after firing.These are my "general loads" for everything I own 308. Some here have said that they are too hot. I'm not sure. These same loads function flawless in my match M1A, Fal, and Remington PSS that R&D worked over. Measured Velocity of the rounds are 2670 using a 168grn Sierra matchking in a variety of tried brass( not too hot). If I drop the load to produce a vel of 2550 there is no sticking. One person told me that if the chamber is a really tight "match" chamber, this would happen.
I'm no "Smith". Does this information have any merit?
Does the GAP rifles routinely have "match" chambers?
Do I need to simply polish the chamber slightly?
Or just develope loads solely for the GAP?
Your input would be appreciated.
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

Is this a custom receiver, one of GAPs receivers or a Remington 700?

Some receivers have extraction problems due to the bolt handle and rear receiver ring extraction cam angles not contacting as they should. Look at the extraction cam angles with a fired case in the chamber as you lift the bolt handle. The extraction cam angles should contact one another and provide a start to primary extraction. If they don’t, the issue may be bolt handle timing. I have a 300WM here for inspection as I type. It has the same problem you describe and is suffering from bolt handle timing issues.

A load that is too hot will produce a sticky bolt lift as well and minor sticking in the chamber.
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

This is a Remington 700 action. After firing there is not a problem rotating the bolt to open. Just extracting the shell. If it sticks, I have to "tap" the bolt handle with my fingers to further pressure the cam to extract. I've tried to look at the cam timing between the bolt and receiver. I've even dressed the bevel on the bolt handle to smooth things a little (had a divot that I thought was hanging up and causing the trouble).
It seems to cam and be timed correctly, but again, I'm no Smith. All I can do is look and analyze what I see.
But if it were a "timing " issue, would they all stick?
Any good Rifle Smiths on the south side of Houston?
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

Are the cam angles contacting at all?

I've shot hot enough loads to blow primers, they extracted fine. If the receiver has an OEM Remington handle on it from Remington, it may be out of time.
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

Check your neck run out and head space. If it is a custom rifle they mite not have cut it to full length. You will probley need to trim you brass to match or have a gunsmith rechamber it. How does your brass look comparing the brass that sticks to the brass that does not?
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

the brass appears the same whether it sticks or not. The cams are contacting and apparently work because with applied pressure I can force the bolt to extract the fired case. It's just frustrating that it requires more than it should (pressure) on the handle. When it sticks, I have to force it over harder and what seems to be further than normal. But, If the load is reduced, it works fine.
I may have a "smith" have a look at the chamber and handle timing to be absolutely sure of what is happening.
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

Is it the handle that's sticking and makes a click at the top of the bolt lift, I thought the brass was sticking in the chamber. Check your PM.
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

i had the same problem with an ltr but i shot match grade ammo thru it. I sold it to a gunsmith i talked to him later he ended up replacing the barrell on it.
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

how many firings do you have on your brass? one of my rifles has no extraction cam contact (fixing it has been on the long to-do list). it extracts just fine for the first four or five firings of the brass. after that, even with full length sizing it has trouble extracting. the handle lifts fine but i may need to put my thumb on the rear of my scope while pulling the bolt handle back to get the spent case out.
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

If it's a hard bolt lift at the top and then a click, it's brass coupled with a sizing issue. The chambers are entirely different from one of your rifles to another. I doubt there will be one load for all rifles. Keep brass for each rifle in it's seperate container and dont mix it. Work up a load for each rifle and stick with it. My 6BR was clicking at the top of the bolt lift after two firings, I switched to the small base FL dies and all is good. No click.
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> My 6BR was clicking at the top of the bolt lift after two firings, I switched to the small base FL dies and all is good. No click. </div></div>

+1 seen this happen on a few rifles an the use of a small base die fixed it.
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

I don't think it's a brass problem. after firing a round, the bolt can be lifted and it will unlock from the chamber, but it has to be forced over beyond the "unlock" point so that the cams can create the rearward pressure to extract the shell. It's actually a normal operation except that the the bolt has to be manhandled onto this camming action. I have noticed that when the bolt unlocks from the chamber, it does move rearward a fraction until the extractor stops the movement on contact with the lip/base of the shell. Here the bolt stops and the operator then has to release all grip on the rifle, usually stand up and "slap" (a little too aggressive a term) the bolt handle upward/over to cause the shell to extract.
I do a complete full resize of the brass and then trim it to a few thousands shorter than Sierra lists. And I've tried brass from FGMM, LC, Win, So I'm stumped.
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

See the other post, you have the same problem, either a rough chamber or a small
chamber back at the cartridge head. Scuffing that leaves a shiny spot on your brass
is usually the tell tale on it. So the small base die is one way to cure it. If
you touch it up with a reamer make sure the head space and throat aren't touched.
I think a chamber hone would be the best way to go. I have heard of a few and had
one experience with a gunsmith that have had this problem with a brand new reamer. I don't know if the reamer makers thought they could chase the manufacturers with the small dimension brass they are putting out but it is a reoccurring problem. I have a 22-250 that has turned into a pita from this exact same problem. Hopefully this last gunsmith will take the time to do the job
properly.
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

Or just give George a call
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: azshooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Or just give George a call</div></div>


Yep.


okie
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: azshooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Or just give George a call </div></div>

ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding!!!!

we have a winner!!!!
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

I have had this problem. The problem I had was that the bolt face Diameter is to small and the base of the brass cams inside of it when you rotate the bolt. There is always going to be a slight run-out of the bottom of the case lip where the extractor lip is. Check the bolt face Diameter and see if you see some brass rub marks below the extractor. Use a blue or a black sharpy and see if there is some shiny spots on the lip.

kn
 
Re: brass sticking in chamber

Well, I am completely amazed at the combined knowledge displayed here on this forum. I had a problem with my GAP rifle, I am guilty of not controlling my thoughts and attempting to lay blame where it didn't belong. Sorry George!! My sincerest apologies.
I fired some crummy factory loads with no troubles.
After that, I ordered a new Sierra rifle reloading manual (the one I was using was 15 years old). The loads that I was originally loading was on the low side of manual 1 but when looking into the new one, WOW, it was approximating a max load. And since our temps here are 97 degrees +, I'm sure I was over pressuring things.
Well, I pulled the bullets and adjusted powder weight.
Holy cow I'm happy with this rifle.
You guys have my utmost admiration. And your willingness to help where you can and offer advice when possible is second to none.
I've learned much.
Thanks you,
Eric