Car Batteries -- Looking for some Hider info!

Drew M

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B, C & D.

Put a lot of modern stuff into older cars & fit the biggest capacity battery & alt I can, isolator too.

Good Earths help a lot.
 

Haney

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I got royally screwed by wallyworld on an obviously defective battery, within about the first six months of ownership. They said "fuck you" and I said "fuck you" right back. Haven't set foot in a walmart since then and never will again.

between Costco's great program to take care of Customers and Interstate's reputation (may be old/stale news), Costco is where I'll be buying my next batteries. We'll see how it works out.

I have had Sears Marine AGM's in the past with excellent results. But, with the condition that Sears is in, I'm no longer willing to roll the dice on them. I'd almost rather go back to wally world, which ain't happening.
I bet you put walmart right out of biz . Like they need a cry ass pud bringing back a battery after having it installed in a piece of shit that kills batteries . Moron
 

missed

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One of the largest contributors to the reduced battery life is using all recycled lead. You can refine recycled to a certain point, but never return its properties to compare to virgin lead. The refiners are going to a "good enough" point. I have spent a bunch of time dealing with power station backup batteries which have mostly been all GNB or Deka flooded lead acid. We only get virgin lead batteries for our application which we have more issues with jars cracking then the batteries loosing capacity, they do get maintained at 78 degrees all the time.

I have Odysseys in the truck, and 10 pieces of heavy equipment. They have been doing good. My 4 runner and wifes SUV both have walmart batteries (Johnson Controls) because there open 24hrs a day. Like others have said there are really only 3-4 choices of batteries
 

Threadcutter308

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I bet you put walmart right out of biz . Like they need a cry ass pud bringing back a battery after having it installed in a piece of shit that kills batteries . Moron
three stooges glass.gif
 
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supercorndogs

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FWIW, I've never had good luck with AGM batteries from any brand. I'm not sure how they developed a good reputation, all I can think of is marketing. I prefer conventional lead acid batteries and that's what I run in all of my rigs, including my RV. The only application where I see AGM as an advantage is a motorcycle.

I also think that the vast majority of vehicles are probably running batteries that are physically too small for them. The one in my car is an absolute joke and dies about every 3 years, it was insane for them to ever think that tiny battery would start a 400 hp V8 for long.
Any deep cycle use is better with an AGM battery, because they aren't damaged like a conventional lead acid battery by being discharged. I.E ran until they are dead.
 

EddieNFL

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There are, I believe, 3 primary car battery manufacturers in the USA.

Any more, I figure if you get 3+ years out of a battery you are doing well.

They just don't make things to last .... it's not in their financial interest.

Also...

https://www.cartechbooks.com/blogs/techtips/battery

Johnson Controls, Stryten and East Penn. Johnson has more than half the market. Brand labels are meaningless.
 

GreenGO Juan

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Ground loop.

Avoid Optima, there was a time, sadly not any more.

I use cheap batteries generally get 4-6 years.

I have a theroy that its not the batteries, its the voltage regulator on alternators improperly charging and killing them prematurely. Who builds modern alternators.... No tangible evidence, just a theory.
 

fpgt72

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I still like Optima batteries, and use them on the few "old" cars I have left.

The maintainer I like is the good ole battery tender, if you have several cars they have models that will charge several cars at once. I also have these on my tractors, zero turn, and other "battery" start things.

Some cars get "cheap shit" batteries, my rail buggy (a vw sand rail) clearly a toy has a cheapo $139 wally world battery and has for 3 years now, sits out in an unheated shop all year long and this year gave the same service it always has, it is also on a battery tender.

At one time I was very heavy in "cars" and had 24 lic, insured, driving cars. Today the "toy" card are down to about 4 plus a couple bikes. Back surgery will slow you down a bit. I had a few 6v applications and a few that had 2x 6v batteries and used the Optima for those. When the 63 beetle gets done I have not made the decision yet to go 12 or 6.

Personally I think having the maintainer is the best thing in the world for keeping a battery happy, and having a good one that will not cook batteries is a must.
 
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Softtail103

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    Same issues. 2-3 years of use until I bought the same Interstate deep cycle I use in my boat. 8 years and still going in my 2013 GMC Sierra.
     

    eflyguy

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    What is a good brand of trickle charger?
    If you mean for vehicles not driven often, "Battery Tender" is somewhat of the standard but I've been using these for a while and they work just as well. We have many vehicles in our family.



    (I inserted a link but for some reason the forum isn't showing it. Amazon item B082VQJQJP
     
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    The King

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    Awesome. I want one so bad. What year is this?
    Its an 05. It now has 329,000 miles on it, and I beat the everlasting dick fuck out of it. Dick. Fuck. Alaska, MT, OR, Moab. Didn't give a shit and all all of that and came back for more.

    It is about done with its pansie grocery getter life. I'm going to replace the engine since it has started smoking finally (dick fuck out of it), and probably cut the whole top off, remove the doors, put in a roll cage and a turret ring and a bulletproof windscreen and make it my desert rat type truck. Like this one:

    1664215006998.png
     

    babyguppy

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    I bet you put walmart right out of biz . Like they need a cry ass pud bringing back a battery after having it installed in a piece of shit that kills batteries . Moron
    Damn, Now your trolling over here, hunting stalking people that called you out?
     

    Shooter McGavin

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    In new cars there is a lot of parasitic loads placed on the battery. If you are going to let your car sit for any length of time put it on a charger. I have good luck with Odyssey batteries. They are TPPL (Thin plate pure lead) and that helps to increase their life span. Also, they can sit on the shelf for 2 years before needing to be charged, then put into service.

    The car battery industry has always used recycled lead from the industrial batteries sector which use virgin lead for longer life. Car batteries are produce to be cheap and replaceable. When auto manufacturers look to save money they cut cost on the batteries. Companies like Exide will make Motorcraft batteries for Ford and make them as cheap as possible which means using more or all recycled lead to keep cost down. Most car owners will just put in the same OEM battery, so the battery manufacturers still make money for years to come.

    To help your batteries last longer try and keep you car out of direct sunlight when not in use, heat kills battery life. Charge your battery periodically with the correct battery charger for your battery, wet cell, VRLA or lithium.
     
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    The D

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    Its an 05. It now has 329,000 miles on it, and I beat the everlasting dick fuck out of it. Dick. Fuck. Alaska, MT, OR, Moab. Didn't give a shit and all all of that and came back for more.

    It is about done with its pansie grocery getter life. I'm going to replace the engine since it has started smoking finally (dick fuck out of it), and probably cut the whole top off, remove the doors, put in a roll cage and a turret ring and a bulletproof windscreen and make it my desert rat type truck. Like this one:

    View attachment 7964011
    I like it. When you replace the engine, swap a G65 engine into it
     

    n2ishun

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    Ground loop.

    Avoid Optima, there was a time, sadly not any more.

    I use cheap batteries generally get 4-6 years.

    I have a theroy that its not the batteries, its the voltage regulator on alternators improperly charging and killing them prematurely. Who builds modern alternators.... No tangible evidence, just a theory.
    Voltage regulator ?
    WTF is that ? Some throwback to 1960s generators that you had to polarize via field to ground ?
    ALL newer vehicles regulate voltage via the ECU.
    ALL of them.
     

    Bradu

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    One other thing to add, a lot of the newer vehicles need a scanner hooked up after you change your battery.
     
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    roostercogburn98

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    Hit or miss in my experience. Just changed my gator battery that was 5 years old and abused. Garage kept, heavy start stop use, with a few swimming and one rollover lesson

    My jeep is less than 2 years old and I’ve had two issues with the battery. Garage kept and hardly abused.
     
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    Bradu

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    Don’t get me started on boat batteries.
    Have 4 in my boat, seems as though I have to replace at least 2 a year.
    If you aren't replacing them as a set, you're shortening the life of the new batteries.
     

    Darayavaus

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    do like my local CDRJ service dept and switch things up by connecting + to - and - to + next time you install a battery.
     

    Moose

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    If you mean for vehicles not driven often, "Battery Tender" is somewhat of the standard but I've been using these for a while and they work just as well. We have many vehicles in our family.



    (I inserted a link but for some reason the forum isn't showing it. Amazon item B082VQJQJP

    Thanks for the info.
     

    The D

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    when it's turned off, yes
    Like, everything closed, all locked, and still has that drain after about 15 minutes? There’s definitely something wrong if that’s the case
     
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    babyguppy

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    Like, everything closed, all locked, and still has that drain after about 15 minutes? There’s definitely something wrong if that’s the case
    most of the amp loss comes from the isolator (400MAs). I can disconnect the line that goes to it, and my parasitic loss drops to 100MAs

    Genuine Cole Hersee Smart Battery Isolator 200A 48530​

    not sure why the Isolator pulls so many mAs. I realize that it's always on, but you'd think it wouldn't be that high. I'm unable to find a spec on line to verify what the parasitic loss should be using this product; but I know mine's around 400mA.
     

    The D

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    most of the amp loss comes from the isolator (400MAs). I can disconnect the line that goes to it, and my parasitic loss drops to 100MAs

    Genuine Cole Hersee Smart Battery Isolator 200A 48530​

    not sure why the Isolator pulls so many mAs. I realize that it's always on, but you'd think it wouldn't be that high. I'm unable to find a spec on line to verify what the parasitic loss should be using this product; but I know mine's around 400mA.
    Anything “smart” will have a draw if it’s not part of the original equipment. This is a Mercedes spec so take that into consideration: mA draws should not be more than about 50mA. Depending on the specific truck you’re talking about, the current draw shouldn’t be too hard to find. Or you can leave it alone if you don’t have any concerns about it…
     
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    fpgt72

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    another good one
    optima chargers
    My truck has a .6 amp pull.. so I keep it plugged in.

    What do you have on in there?

    This is the draw on our patrol cars with everything on, but nothing being used, no radio being used, camera on but not recording, printer on but not printing, no radar on.
     

    MarshallDodge

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    I’ve had to put batteries in 2 of our cars in the last few(4 maybe) years and always put an agm battery in the original’s place. Doesn’t really matter which manufacturer to me, the upgrade to agm is enough for these cars. Might be worth looking at.

    This should be obvious, and I’m not accusing anyone of doing this, but always replace with at least factory equivalent. And try to keep the aftermarket electronics to a minimum.

    Funny story:

    The independent shop I used to work at had a mid-00’s E-class get towed in. It didn’t take long to diagnose that the $75 Auto Zone special battery couldn’t keep up with the car’s demands and wrote the estimate. He lost his shit when he got the estimate to replace his brand new battery with the proper battery for the car. It was kind of fun explaining to him that he can’t be a cheap fuck and own a Mercedes
    I've got a Mercedes battery in my E-250 that is going on 5 years old.
     
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    BytorJr

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    My experience as of late is:
    1) Interstate battery I got from interstate...sucked. It's still working; but I've used my battery restoration charger (CTEK) and keep it on trickle (NOCO Genius) since it was 2 years old. Anytime whether dips to 40's it's a crap shoot.
    2) VW branded battery which I believe is from NARVA is excellent in that car. No problems (knock on wood). It's a gel cell I believe or maybe just sealed.
    3) Northstar is THE battery now but very pricey. What Optima used to be!!!
    4) Braille if you're really into spending money; but mixed results from what I've read.
     

    roostercogburn98

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    Oh and I got to put TWO new batteries in my jeep today. Did I mention it’s only 1-1/2 years old?
     
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    Sean the Nailer

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    Now, I've been using these in one manner or another since '95. I'm curious though, for any whom have served,,,, do you have any insight to their 'military' applications (allegedly?) ?
     

    SilentStalkr

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    Ok Hiders... could use some insight/experience or feedback on car batteries. Not EV or Hybrid or that crap. Just regular car batteries in your daily drivers or collector cars.

    So here is the background... typically I have always seen it as no problem to get 5 years out of a battery. Sometimes 6 - 7 if it's treated well. That's been experience since I started to drive in the early '80's. Lots of cars, tractors, etc. in that time. And many, many more on the cars I wrench on for clients.

    But in the last 3 - 4 years, batteries have been dying well short of 5 years (60 months). Including in collector type cars and even my daily driver plow truck (18 Ram 3500 Cummins.) Life seems to be between 36 and 45 months and the batteries are... dead. Won't hold charge. Need replacement. In-car testing (it's dead Jim) and multimeter testing shows they won't take a charge. Well short of 'warranty.'

    BTW, we always use 'tier one' batteries. Exide. Interstate. Napa (yes, they are/were good.) And Optima for folks who want a gel-cell. For cars in Cold Climates, we sometimes use Deep Cycle because they go months without driving. So no WalMart or shit-brand batteries.

    So what say you guys? Has anyone noticed the same thing? Short battery life? Failure well short of 'warranty' date?

    Here are some thoughts I have.

    A. My use on vintage (prewar) collector type cars may be outside the 'normal' use of a battery that might be designed for alternators and computer-controlled voltage regulation... not old Dynamos, cutouts and mechanical regulators. This does not explain why my 'modern' vehicle batteries don't last long, though.

    B. Batteries are not designed for being driven once a week or 'occasionally' and even when fitted with disconnect or put on trickle chargers are getting 'damaged' by this kind of usage vs. daily drivers and constant charge.

    C. Batteries now are shit and don't make the lifetimes no matter what is printed on them. This is influenced by D... below:

    D. Battery makers have realized that most cars aren't kept for more than 36 months and 'warranty' period... so they are designed to make it little or no longer than that. Yes, they have 60 months on the labels, but somewhere at the Battery Companies, actuaries or beancounters or accountants have realized that noone 'returns' a battery for warranty any more. And just tells dealer to 'fit a new one.' So they can offer a 60 month warranty, but sell a 36 month battery... and if 1 in 100 tries to collect on the warranty, the companies can pay out and still know that 99 others won't collect. A bargain for them!

    E. I am totally wrong on this and my empirical observations are totally off and I am just being cynical and can't read the punches on batteries that... I often fitted four or five years ago.

    So interested in your input? This place has more 'connected' folks and "Sniper-level Observers" than any place on the Interwebs. Observations are what I am interested in. Since there are probably not many Battery Diarists among you foot fettishists....

    Thanks for any thoughts!

    Sirhr
    Yes sir, I’ve noticed it with all batteries, literally. I was wondering if anyone else would point it out. Driving me insane.

    Trickle charger on everything. I've got a battery in my daily from 2015. It was in my race car for 5-6 years and then swapped. It sat on a trickle charger for about 5 of those years. All the tractors get one, if it's a battery I put a trickle charger on it when not daily driven.

    Maybe I've just had good luck...

    Edit my math is off.
    See my experience is the opposite. Every damn time I put my shit I trickle charge over winter, I have to replace them the following spring. If I don’t put it on trickle charge then it’s a crap shoot but they fire up more so than not when compared to the ones on charge all winter. I know that sounds crazy but I was talking to my neighbor and he has the same issue with his bikes. It’s very strange.
     

    tiger13

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    Doesn't it have two batteries? The starting battery and the one for its 'constant load' and Emissions systems? I think those are hidden... in the seats???

    Yeah, German modern cars now have so many electronics that the batteries are barely able to keep up.

    Interesting responses folks. Thank you! You are more of less confirming what my gut said.

    Cheers,

    Sirhr
    Infiniti Q30 (German manufacture) also has 2 batteries. Pain in the ass to do a parasitic drain test on. Newer cars have computers that control generator output, and they haven't worked the bugs out yet. If you make a lot of short trips, it never charges the battery. New battery chemistry is also getting very finicky; they are engineering for a best case scenario that doesn't happen in the real world. I worked in the industry, and it is becoming a BIG customer satisfaction problem.
     

    Sean the Nailer

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    Yes sir, I’ve noticed it with all batteries, literally. I was wondering if anyone else would point it out. Driving me insane.


    See my experience is the opposite. Every damn time I put my shit I trickle charge over winter, I have to replace them the following spring. If I don’t put it on trickle charge then it’s a crap shoot but they fire up more so than not when compared to the ones on charge all winter. I know that sounds crazy but I was talking to my neighbor and he has the same issue with his bikes. It’s very strange.
    If things are being put away for the winter/season, disconnect the positive cable/clamp. Also, don't forget to check liquid levels before 'putting them up' because there is/can be evaporation. Top off only with distilled water. (some use de-ionized, but they both taste the same to me)
     
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    krw

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    Did not read through reply’s. We have work trucks, tractors, SxS’s and are always buying batteries. Guy I know in battery business said the recycled lead in new batteries does not have the life of new lead. Take that for what its worth???