I bet you put walmart right out of biz . Like they need a cry ass pud bringing back a battery after having it installed in a piece of shit that kills batteries . MoronI got royally screwed by wallyworld on an obviously defective battery, within about the first six months of ownership. They said "fuck you" and I said "fuck you" right back. Haven't set foot in a walmart since then and never will again.
between Costco's great program to take care of Customers and Interstate's reputation (may be old/stale news), Costco is where I'll be buying my next batteries. We'll see how it works out.
I have had Sears Marine AGM's in the past with excellent results. But, with the condition that Sears is in, I'm no longer willing to roll the dice on them. I'd almost rather go back to wally world, which ain't happening.
Any deep cycle use is better with an AGM battery, because they aren't damaged like a conventional lead acid battery by being discharged. I.E ran until they are dead.FWIW, I've never had good luck with AGM batteries from any brand. I'm not sure how they developed a good reputation, all I can think of is marketing. I prefer conventional lead acid batteries and that's what I run in all of my rigs, including my RV. The only application where I see AGM as an advantage is a motorcycle.
I also think that the vast majority of vehicles are probably running batteries that are physically too small for them. The one in my car is an absolute joke and dies about every 3 years, it was insane for them to ever think that tiny battery would start a 400 hp V8 for long.
There are, I believe, 3 primary car battery manufacturers in the USA.
Any more, I figure if you get 3+ years out of a battery you are doing well.
They just don't make things to last .... it's not in their financial interest.
If you mean for vehicles not driven often, "Battery Tender" is somewhat of the standard but I've been using these for a while and they work just as well. We have many vehicles in our family.What is a good brand of trickle charger?
Its an 05. It now has 329,000 miles on it, and I beat the everlasting dick fuck out of it. Dick. Fuck. Alaska, MT, OR, Moab. Didn't give a shit and all all of that and came back for more.Awesome. I want one so bad. What year is this?
I like it. When you replace the engine, swap a G65 engine into itIts an 05. It now has 329,000 miles on it, and I beat the everlasting dick fuck out of it. Dick. Fuck. Alaska, MT, OR, Moab. Didn't give a shit and all all of that and came back for more.
It is about done with its pansie grocery getter life. I'm going to replace the engine since it has started smoking finally (dick fuck out of it), and probably cut the whole top off, remove the doors, put in a roll cage and a turret ring and a bulletproof windscreen and make it my desert rat type truck. Like this one:
View attachment 7964011
Voltage regulator ?Ground loop.
Avoid Optima, there was a time, sadly not any more.
I use cheap batteries generally get 4-6 years.
I have a theroy that its not the batteries, its the voltage regulator on alternators improperly charging and killing them prematurely. Who builds modern alternators.... No tangible evidence, just a theory.
If you mean for vehicles not driven often, "Battery Tender" is somewhat of the standard but I've been using these for a while and they work just as well. We have many vehicles in our family.
(I inserted a link but for some reason the forum isn't showing it. Amazon item B082VQJQJP
most of the amp loss comes from the isolator (400MAs). I can disconnect the line that goes to it, and my parasitic loss drops to 100MAsLike, everything closed, all locked, and still has that drain after about 15 minutes? There’s definitely something wrong if that’s the case
Anything “smart” will have a draw if it’s not part of the original equipment. This is a Mercedes spec so take that into consideration: mA draws should not be more than about 50mA. Depending on the specific truck you’re talking about, the current draw shouldn’t be too hard to find. Or you can leave it alone if you don’t have any concerns about it…most of the amp loss comes from the isolator (400MAs). I can disconnect the line that goes to it, and my parasitic loss drops to 100MAs
Genuine Cole Hersee Smart Battery Isolator 200A 48530not sure why the Isolator pulls so many mAs. I realize that it's always on, but you'd think it wouldn't be that high. I'm unable to find a spec on line to verify what the parasitic loss should be using this product; but I know mine's around 400mA.
I've got a Mercedes battery in my E-250 that is going on 5 years old.I’ve had to put batteries in 2 of our cars in the last few(4 maybe) years and always put an agm battery in the original’s place. Doesn’t really matter which manufacturer to me, the upgrade to agm is enough for these cars. Might be worth looking at.
This should be obvious, and I’m not accusing anyone of doing this, but always replace with at least factory equivalent. And try to keep the aftermarket electronics to a minimum.
The independent shop I used to work at had a mid-00’s E-class get towed in. It didn’t take long to diagnose that the $75 Auto Zone special battery couldn’t keep up with the car’s demands and wrote the estimate. He lost his shit when he got the estimate to replace his brand new battery with the proper battery for the car. It was kind of fun explaining to him that he can’t be a cheap fuck and own a Mercedes
Yes sir, I’ve noticed it with all batteries, literally. I was wondering if anyone else would point it out. Driving me insane.Ok Hiders... could use some insight/experience or feedback on car batteries. Not EV or Hybrid or that crap. Just regular car batteries in your daily drivers or collector cars.
So here is the background... typically I have always seen it as no problem to get 5 years out of a battery. Sometimes 6 - 7 if it's treated well. That's been experience since I started to drive in the early '80's. Lots of cars, tractors, etc. in that time. And many, many more on the cars I wrench on for clients.
But in the last 3 - 4 years, batteries have been dying well short of 5 years (60 months). Including in collector type cars and even my daily driver plow truck (18 Ram 3500 Cummins.) Life seems to be between 36 and 45 months and the batteries are... dead. Won't hold charge. Need replacement. In-car testing (it's dead Jim) and multimeter testing shows they won't take a charge. Well short of 'warranty.'
BTW, we always use 'tier one' batteries. Exide. Interstate. Napa (yes, they are/were good.) And Optima for folks who want a gel-cell. For cars in Cold Climates, we sometimes use Deep Cycle because they go months without driving. So no WalMart or shit-brand batteries.
So what say you guys? Has anyone noticed the same thing? Short battery life? Failure well short of 'warranty' date?
Here are some thoughts I have.
A. My use on vintage (prewar) collector type cars may be outside the 'normal' use of a battery that might be designed for alternators and computer-controlled voltage regulation... not old Dynamos, cutouts and mechanical regulators. This does not explain why my 'modern' vehicle batteries don't last long, though.
B. Batteries are not designed for being driven once a week or 'occasionally' and even when fitted with disconnect or put on trickle chargers are getting 'damaged' by this kind of usage vs. daily drivers and constant charge.
C. Batteries now are shit and don't make the lifetimes no matter what is printed on them. This is influenced by D... below:
D. Battery makers have realized that most cars aren't kept for more than 36 months and 'warranty' period... so they are designed to make it little or no longer than that. Yes, they have 60 months on the labels, but somewhere at the Battery Companies, actuaries or beancounters or accountants have realized that noone 'returns' a battery for warranty any more. And just tells dealer to 'fit a new one.' So they can offer a 60 month warranty, but sell a 36 month battery... and if 1 in 100 tries to collect on the warranty, the companies can pay out and still know that 99 others won't collect. A bargain for them!
E. I am totally wrong on this and my empirical observations are totally off and I am just being cynical and can't read the punches on batteries that... I often fitted four or five years ago.
So interested in your input? This place has more 'connected' folks and "Sniper-level Observers" than any place on the Interwebs. Observations are what I am interested in. Since there are probably not many Battery Diarists among you foot fettishists....
Thanks for any thoughts!
See my experience is the opposite. Every damn time I put my shit I trickle charge over winter, I have to replace them the following spring. If I don’t put it on trickle charge then it’s a crap shoot but they fire up more so than not when compared to the ones on charge all winter. I know that sounds crazy but I was talking to my neighbor and he has the same issue with his bikes. It’s very strange.Trickle charger on everything. I've got a battery in my daily from 2015. It was in my race car for 5-6 years and then swapped. It sat on a trickle charger for about 5 of those years. All the tractors get one, if it's a battery I put a trickle charger on it when not daily driven.
Maybe I've just had good luck...
Edit my math is off.
Infiniti Q30 (German manufacture) also has 2 batteries. Pain in the ass to do a parasitic drain test on. Newer cars have computers that control generator output, and they haven't worked the bugs out yet. If you make a lot of short trips, it never charges the battery. New battery chemistry is also getting very finicky; they are engineering for a best case scenario that doesn't happen in the real world. I worked in the industry, and it is becoming a BIG customer satisfaction problem.Doesn't it have two batteries? The starting battery and the one for its 'constant load' and Emissions systems? I think those are hidden... in the seats???
Yeah, German modern cars now have so many electronics that the batteries are barely able to keep up.
Interesting responses folks. Thank you! You are more of less confirming what my gut said.
If things are being put away for the winter/season, disconnect the positive cable/clamp. Also, don't forget to check liquid levels before 'putting them up' because there is/can be evaporation. Top off only with distilled water. (some use de-ionized, but they both taste the same to me)Yes sir, I’ve noticed it with all batteries, literally. I was wondering if anyone else would point it out. Driving me insane.
See my experience is the opposite. Every damn time I put my shit I trickle charge over winter, I have to replace them the following spring. If I don’t put it on trickle charge then it’s a crap shoot but they fire up more so than not when compared to the ones on charge all winter. I know that sounds crazy but I was talking to my neighbor and he has the same issue with his bikes. It’s very strange.