Another thing to check is case weight. I've noticed two significantly different case weight groups with the factory loaded Hornady brass. The first group weighs around 219 grains and the second group weighs around 224 grains. The five grain difference will affect pressure, especially if you're already pushing on it a little. What primers are you using? Standard or Magnum?
- Thread starter jb1000br
- Start date
Another thing to check is case weight. I've noticed two significantly different case weight groups with the factory loaded Hornady brass. The first group weighs around 219 grains and the second group weighs around 224 grains. The five grain difference will affect pressure, especially if you're already pushing on it a little. What primers are you using? Standard or Magnum?
Interesting. I’ll weight them. Thanks for the tip. I’m about 110 rounds on the barrel and need to check velocity again. But I shot to 790 the other day and it lines up around 2925 fps at 55.5 grains. I’m using wolf magnums
I'm using Fed 210M. I often find that CCI250s work great with RL26, but I got better groups with less pressure with the 210s.
Damn! That looks really nice.
Attachments
If I had to whine about anything on the rifle the stock grip and the bolt allt he way back can bind up if you lift it as you push it back forward. I plan to have the bolt DLC coated and see if that improves it Feel like a seekins best I can compare .
For a out of the box production gun it gets it done very well . Let talk grips as I have tor swap this one out .
For a out of the box production gun it gets it done very well . Let talk grips as I have tor swap this one out .
I agree. Also the bolt lift is very very heavy. That's my only other complaint. But on a hunting rifle its not a deal breaker.
Mine has lightened up but I have 400 plus round down the tube now , not a bunch but enough to know I love the rifle , and as you said hunting rifle which is what I use it for . This one may in fact go up for sale as I am thinking 6.5 PRC over the CM I know not enough to worry about but makes one caliber than much more of a DO all out to 900 . new rig will not be a CA but APR in a ultra light weight set up 6.5 lb complete rifle no ring no glass , LOTS of carbon .
Use whatever grip you use on your ARs. The ergos are pretty close. I use the ergo deluxe grip.
I went from a 6.5CM MPR to a 6.5 PRC MPR. I kind of wish I just got the 22" 6.5 creed because I hunt in tight quarters a lot. I may be interested in working out a trade with you if yours is the 22" model.
To be honest I do know recall what legnth barrel it has I think its a 24 though for some reason . I own too many guns and it has been at the deer lease all year so I will be out there this weekend and I will check . But it can always be shorten up as well . I am not too far from APR and that is something they can do in house for me . Great guys over there was in the shop yesterday . I may think on that . I know its not a huge gain for me . Just looking for one rifle that will really do all the 6.5 CM does and a bit more and that is the 6.5 PRC
How could you shorten the barrel? Carbon barrels can’t be chopped and threaded like a steel barrel can. My prc gets about 250 fps more with a 147 than my creedmoor.
I thought that some one was able to do It I could be very wrong based on what the contour is under the CF .
Yea you can not shorten a Carbon barrel. The blanks are built to length
Cant say I need this new gun but the 2 Christensen Ridgelines I own are TOP NOTCH! 6.5lb hunting gun that shoots less than .4MOA is OK in my book One is a 7mm-08 other is a 280 AI. I like the big Carbon barrel too. Easy to carry on your shoulder like on safari...
Has anyone tried to put another action in this chassis? Will a defiance, bighorn, Impact, Rem 700 etc action fit? It seems to be cut exactly for christensens action.
I’m new here so don’t hate me if I’m hijackin this thread, but does any one else’s stock have a lot of up and down slop? Mine had a 1/8”-3/16” slop/wiggle, regardless of whether it’s folded or locked in the firing position. Thinking about finding some nylon ships or washers to try and tighten it up some.
no, not in mine. I just got it in December and it's very solid.
No, mine doesn’t have any movement at all.
Take a look at the hinge. There are set screws that can be used to adjust the pivot. Im not sure if there is one that will fix your particular problem, but take a look. There might be something there.
Thanks for your quick replies guys. I did pull out the two set screws that hold the pivot pin in the chassis and remove the pin and buttstock. It seems like there is slop between the pin and the orange colored bushing that is pressed into the stock. I think I’ll give CA a call today and see if they can maybe send me a new bushing, pin, or both. I had a mag issue with my 338 BA Tact and they shipped me out a new one right away, so I know their customer service dept. is pretty solid.
So I talked to CA customer service today, turns out that there is an updated bushing that’s included in their newest production run, they informed me that it would fix my problem. Unfortunately I’ll have to ship the rifle to them for repairs, I asked if they could just ship me the new parts but they said that it will need to be pressed in and must be done at their facility, and will take 2-4 weeks. Sucks for sure, but at least they have a solution and are willing to fix it. I’ll give an update on the results when I get the rifle back.
Anyone try to throw another action in the chassis? Curious it an Impact or Bighorn TL3 action will drop right in without mods. If nobody has tried it I can throw an impact in it in a week and see if it fits.
Anybody have the 300wm? With the weight of the rifle I've wondered how the recoil is? I know it has a tunable brake on it so maybe I can reduce recoil with it quite a bit.... I'm about to pull the trigger and pick one up, but I would like to get some kind of idea on the recoil I'll have... I enjoy (from prone and sitting position) the recoil my 338 savage 110BA LE has and can shoot it all day, so take that into account in your comparision/opinion. But I want to shoot this rifle offhand and etc.. you know, shooting situations I'll experience during hunting.
Well any rifle that light with a magnum .30+ cal is not exactly going to be "fun" to shoot. If you're concerned about recoil get a 6.5 PRC. Better ballistics and less recoi is a win win. Not sure if they make a 7mm mag but that would be a decent option as well.
The Christensen side baffle brake is extremely efficient. I have no problem spotting hits with this brake on a 300 WM. The tunable ports are a bonus. I shoot a Christensen Ridgeline with 215 Bergers and starting from the shooter side, I pulled the first and the fourth plug from the top of the brake to eliminate muzzle rise.
Outstanding thanks, anymore info from anybody else will be appreciated.
I've already got a tikka tac a1 in 6.5creed, so I'm good on the 6.5.
Felt recoil on the same caliber with different stocks to me at least is very noticeable . The design of the MPR is a very mild recoil , the brake is very good But I feel there is another option there as well with the screws for adjustable recoil . Just my thoughts , As I had a McMillian stock on a 300WM and man it was brutal , went over to another brand and the slights changes in stock made the gun pure fun to shoot after that , the idea to swap the stock was GS ,
I almost picked us up a few months back and decided for a custom one instead. Would love to hear your range report.
I have a CA Ridgeline in a 300 win mag and 200 yds I can touch holes 3 shot group
Can anybody speak on shooting the MPR from the left side. Do you get a good cheek weld as the right? Does the magnet get in the way?
I've been looking at getting a MPR and have read a few articles and watched one You Tube video that mention issues with the timing and cam action of the bolt with the inevitable challenge of extraction of the cartridge case. Is this accurate? I've owned a CA rifle since 2003 so I've never had an issue with the quality of their products and am particularly pleased with their customer service BUT was curious as to someone who owns an MPRs experience. Feedback would be appreciated.
I've seen that video and although he does a decent job of explaining primary extraction, he didn't correctly measure it. He really needed to remove the firing pin, make sure the bolt lugs were fully engaged against the mating surface in the lug recess and rotate the bolt straight up to get a measurement before the cam and after the cam at the top of the bolt lift. If he would have done this correctly, I'm confident he would have seen plenty of primary extraction.
The other stuff is a moot point and easily rectified.
Thanks for the info!
Here is a video by Alex Wheeler displaying how the primary extraction should be measured on a 700 action or clone. As I stated earlier, it is important to remove the firing pin to get an accurate measurement.
Thank you for the great video; this is extremely helpful and resolves a lot of questions I had.
I had a total knee slapped in a month ago, so I put together 2 projects I had been thinking about for a while during my rehab.
I came in under $7k for both setups for everything. K2 grips, RRS ARCA Plates, TBAC Brakes, M-Lok QD swivel attachments, NF UL mounts. 1-8 Mil NXS on the 16” .308 and 2.5-10x42 Mil-r on the 22” 6.5CM
Now I need to get out and shoot’em!
I came in under $7k for both setups for everything. K2 grips, RRS ARCA Plates, TBAC Brakes, M-Lok QD swivel attachments, NF UL mounts. 1-8 Mil NXS on the 16” .308 and 2.5-10x42 Mil-r on the 22” 6.5CM
Now I need to get out and shoot’em!
I'm recovering from shoulder surgery so I understand sitting around and thinking about guns. What calibers are your rifles? Post accuracy result pictures if you can!
I have a Blaser R8 (straight pull bolt) that is proven and reliable to the extreme 300N NXS C461 and 338L ATACR MIL-r for LR smacking - I chose the MPR as a known quantity action over the FIX for fair weather (antelope 50-400 yards (6.5CM setup) and extreme close range hunting - (.308 NX8)
Tough weather and/or long range my Blaser is a killing machine.
For the last several seasons I have been killing WT deer 5-15 yards and the 1x will be a lot better than 2.5X at that range.
How does the chassis on this rifle compare when looking at an aftermarket chassis? Was curious if this is comparable to a bergaea in a XLR chassis or a rem 700 in a krg or other similar chassis system. Has anyone compared these?
the bolt ks this guns weakest link. I get cases prematurely releasing from ejector on regularly basis. One guy posted a great video that shows this flaw in detail.
CA should get in front of this and fix
Got a problem, can use some advice.
In trying to better understand why my cases are prematurely disengaging from my electors and getting left in chamber, I sent an empty case into chamber to get a better look.
When i tried closing the bolt, it didn't want to close so i tried backing it out to investigate, but its loosely locked in there now. Nothing is jammed, haven't put any pressure on anything but the bolt cant be removed now. Its loosely locked in the gun. I can't remove bolt and I can get it into firing position, its floundering in-between positions.
I feel like the firing pin needs to be fired or it needs to be cocked to get bolt to come out.
Like I said. Nothing was forcefully done, I think the bolt needs to be reset but I'm not sure how to do that while it's in the chamber.
Any advice?
In trying to better understand why my cases are prematurely disengaging from my electors and getting left in chamber, I sent an empty case into chamber to get a better look.
When i tried closing the bolt, it didn't want to close so i tried backing it out to investigate, but its loosely locked in there now. Nothing is jammed, haven't put any pressure on anything but the bolt cant be removed now. Its loosely locked in the gun. I can't remove bolt and I can get it into firing position, its floundering in-between positions.
I feel like the firing pin needs to be fired or it needs to be cocked to get bolt to come out.
Like I said. Nothing was forcefully done, I think the bolt needs to be reset but I'm not sure how to do that while it's in the chamber.
Any advice?
Similar threads
