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Cleaning muzzle brake...?

SilentStalkr

SilentStalkr

Wonna Be Badass
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    • Oct 8, 2012
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    I wasn’t really sure where to put this. We need a maintenance section, or maybe we have one and I’m just blind. Anyways, I’m wondering what you guys use to clean your brakes, specifically cerakoted brakes. I’ve kind of neglected most of mine and they are turning blue from all the lead build up. I soaked a cerakoted AK brake of mine in some Hoppes once for like 20 minutes and boy was that a mistake. It took the finish right off. I know some people say that cerakote shouldn’t be able to be removed with chems but I don’t want to take the chance after that. So, let’s hear it. What do you guys do? Maybe I need to invest in a sonic cleaner. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve tried scrubbing in there as best I can’t with a toothbrush and all kinds of crap but I can’t get it all and where I don’t get it, it turns blue of course. Got to be an easier way that won’t strip them coating.
     
    Last edited:
    I use a ultra sonic to clean my brakes, mine isn't the most powerful so it's a process of scrubbing and putting back in the US over and over.

    Couldn't advise if a US would remove the cerakote or not.
     
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    I just cleaned mine not long ago and it wasn’t fun. Mine is stainless so could be different but I used brake cleaner and scrubbed them switched to kroil which seemed to work really well after soaking overnight. I don’t think kroil would hurt your cerakote but I haven’t tried it so maybe someone can chime in on it.
     
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    I have 4 brakes, all APA, all black nitride. If you look at APA's videos vs. what I have to go through to get them clean I feel like a frigging idiot. They soak them in a simple solution then take a Q-tip to it. Magically it comes out clean.

    If they are fouled heavily then hours in an ultrasonic, brake-clean, Slip-2000, Bore Tech C4, ... nothing really works other than soaking in any of them then scraping with a pick, soak, scrape, repeat, repeat. With that, I now just pull them after every outing and dunk them in BBS for 30 or so minutes then follow with a quick scrape and rinse.

    The biggest thing I have learned is not to use anything on the threads other than anti-seize. Even small amounts of oil and grease on the threads get drawn down to the baffles and then collect carbon like crazy. Same for the barrel - if it is not dry before the first shot the brake is going to collect it.

    As for the Cerakote issue, may be simply to not Cerakote brakes.
     
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    I do not clean muzzle brakes at all, except, may, on the outside, for cosmetic purposes only.
    I do clean muzzle crown from some carbon deposits, but no 100% sure if it makes a huge difference.
    May be I do not shoot my rifles enough to run into "dirty" muzzle brake related issues...
     
    Put me in the neglect column, cleaning brakes sucks, period. I will occasionally soak in upper engine cleaner overnight which loosens carbon pretty well, then I take a pick to it, brush some. Main focus is cleaning out inner diameter of muzzle and area that touches the muzzle of barrel. I have had enough carbon build up in past to make a 1/4 moa gun open up to 1/2-3/4 moa.
     
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    CLR works good I'm told, but only for stainless brakes. Can ruin finish of coated brakes is what I heard.
     
    I don't know that cleaning them/getting them clean is really that important. However, I shoot next to friends including my wife. I have been hit with large carbon deposits blown off a brake. Not a fantastic experience, so I try to keep mine at the point where only smaller stuff is flying off.
     
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    Reactions: themightytimmah
    Wet tumble. I'm sure it will eat off your cerakote too, but if you really want them clean you're going to have to get over that.
     
    I would not use on cerakote, I’ve done it with lower pressure but I would avid it.
    stainless ,anodized aluminum and melonite finishes are g2g. Generally my cerikote finishes clean up with hops 9.
     
    My brakes are either parkerized or stainless. I used MPro7 concentrate to soak for 5-10 minutes at a time, scrub a little, soak, scrub. Dental pick if needed. I clean them every 500-750 rounds or so.
     
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    Argh. So nothing really can take it off without taking the cerakote off it doesn’t sound like. Hoppes 9 and brushing so far hasn’t worked. Going to try some Boretech Eliminator next and see what that does.
     
    I coated mine with Breakfree CLP before I used it and it seems like carbon isn't sticking I pull it and wipe it down when I clean the gun. Dunno how to get that stuff off once it builds up.

    VooDoo
     
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    Reactions: Central Line
    Soak in boretech for a few days. It will not harm Cerekote.
    Or, CLR in moderation.. keep it to 20-30 minutes and rinse.

    Boretech works good but takes time.
     
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    I use an Area419 Hellfire.

    I soak mine in a cup of KG1 carbon remover every 500 rounds. I let it soak for a couple of days. Almost all of the carbon dissolves and a Q Tip gets the rest.

    Super easy and effective
     
    Nik H said:
    I use an Area419 Hellfire.

    I soak mine in a cup of KG1 carbon remover every 500 rounds. I let it soak for a couple of days. Almost all of the carbon dissolves and a Q Tip gets the rest.

    Super easy and effective
    Click to expand...

    Is the brake cerakoted or stainless?
     
    Make it easy on yourself, CLR soak for shortish periods, or hydrogen peroxide/vinegar mix soak overnight. I do this to my TBAC brakes and cans frequently and they simply rinse clean. No scrubbing necessary.
     
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    Reactions: elite_ares and Vodoun daVinci
    I use faucet water & lemishine

    works fantastic on stainless brakes
    ive used it on APA Lil bastards, I check every 20-30mins. It will put a slight reddish hue to them but I can buff them easily after and they shine as new.
     
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    Reactions: Billiam1211
    I put mine in a metal coffee can filled with Kroil. Let it soak overnight then blow it out with air. Too much crud builds up with muzzle brakes I wouldn't ever consider cerakoting one. Perhaps DLC.
     
    SilentStalkr said:
    Won’t CLR eat cerakote?
    Click to expand...
    20190607_230746.jpg
    20190607_230641.jpg


    Yes CLR will eat thru cerakote or nitride finish... Ask me how I Know
     
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    Even tho clr will eat thru the finish, it works like a charm against hard carbon build up, just don't leave it on your brake for longer than 15 minutes, I soaked my brake for about half hour in a pure clr solution, I guess your supposed to dilute it so it isn't so abrasive
     
    clcustom1911 said:
    Unless I'm wrong, Stainless turns black after ferritic nitrocarburizing treatment.
    Click to expand...

    Hi,

    I believe this is my first post on this forum. Or any for that matter. Professionally I am a blacksmith. When I noticed that you had mentioned the ferric chloride turns the brake a darker color that is because it is an acid. We use it in the fridge to etch damascus knives. If I may I would recommend using windex after the ferric chloride. The ammonia in the windex will neutralize the acid. If it will soal for awhile I would check at least every 30 minutes and pull the brake out and spray or soak in windex wipe off then put back in the acid. That should prevent the color change. Also that color change is only on the surface. It can be removed.
     
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    I might just live with it. It’s not affecting accuracy or anything so far but I suspect that with enough build up that it might. On the other hand my 6 creed will probably need a new barrel by the time there is enough gunk to affect accuracy so it really won’t matter I don’t suppose.
     
    I have completely submerged my FDE cerakoted TBAC can overnight many times in CLR and it has never removed the finish.... So either TBAC has one hell of a finish, or these brakes aren't truly cerakoted.
     
    Last edited:
    spelunk said:
    I have completely submerged my FDE cerakoted TBAC can overnight many times and it has never removed the finish.... So either TBAC has one hell of a finish, or these brakes aren't truly cerakoted.
    Click to expand...

    These brakes are, I assure you if that. The one AK brake I mentioned was not, but I didn’t give a shit about it cause it’s well an AK. And you submerged your TBAC can overnight in what?
     
    SilentStalkr said:
    These brakes are, I assure you if that. The one AK brake I mentioned was not, but I didn’t give a shit about it cause it’s well an AK. And you submerged your TBAC can overnight in what?
    Click to expand...
    Sorry I'm an idiot, left out important details. I used CLR. I've also used "the dip" (hydrogen peroxide/vinegar.) I also didn't mean that your brakes were not cerakoted, but rather maybe some of the other posters' brakes in this thread may not have been. In the end it's your stuff, if you don't want to risk the CLR, maybe try the dip first.
     
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    spelunk said:
    Sorry I'm an idiot, left out important details. I used CLR. I've also used "the dip" (hydrogen peroxide/vinegar.) I also didn't mean that your brakes were not cerakoted, but rather maybe some of the other posters' brakes in this thread may not have been. In the end it's your stuff, if you don't want to risk the CLR, maybe try the dip first.
    Click to expand...

    Hell I say as long as it isn’t affecting function in any way just roll with it. I use my stuff. They aren’t safe queens but I do try and take care of my equip to.
     
    308pirate said:
    Why the fuck clean them? They're gonna be dirty the second you pull the trigger again.
    Click to expand...
    Does that same logic apply to your barrel ? The moment you fire a shot it’s dirty again. I don’t do it so much for shiny, but I had enough crud on mine that during match I was having weird flyers. I blamed the scope, swapped the next day and still did it. Pulled the brake and saw chunks fall out. The 6.5 hole was almost a 6. Pieces would flake off during firing being lodged in the hole causing horrible flyers.

    I’ll never let that happen again, I clean after 2-300rds now. Same I do my barrel.
     
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    trophyhunter said:
    Does that same logic apply to your barrel ? The moment you fire a shot it’s dirty again. I don’t do it so much for shiny, but I had enough crud on mine that during match I was having weird flyers. I blamed the scope, swapped the next day and still did it. Pulled the brake and saw chunks fall out. The 6.5 hole was almost a 6. Pieces would flake off during firing being lodged in the hole causing horrible flyers.

    I’ll never let that happen again, I clean after 2-300rds now. Same I do my barrel.
    Click to expand...
    I've seen this on more than one occasion with both my brakes and others. Brake design matters also on how fast the build up will occur and start affecting accuracy
     
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    I would not expect any finish on a brake, other than bare stainless or nitride to remain intact forever. It's just subjected to so much heat, pressure and carbon and copper fouling, that cleaning it effectively will certainly cause the finish to degrade to some degree.

    All mine are nitrided, I spray mine with carb cleaner a few times and let the stuff soak into the caked on carbon.

    Then it goes into ultrasonic cleaner for 5-7min with a hot dilution of simple green extreme aircraft cleaner and water.

    Anything left flakes off quickly with a pass of a nylon brush and/or compressed air, barrel crown and threads get cleaned with nylon brush as well.

    Then a thin bit of anti seize on the muzzle and jam nut threads, and a thin coat of CLP on the brake to soak into the finish.

    I clean brakes only when barrels are cleaned, about every 500ish rounds, and then less than a dozen rounds to foul and re-establish zero.

    As a side note: the simple green extreme is great all purpose cleaner/degreaser for gun parts, as it wont attack aluminum, is unscented, non-toxic, and a gallon of it can be had for $18 on amazon and be diluted down to a lifetime supply of of gun parts cleaner.
     
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    I just cleaned mine after waiting far too long. Warm water and Lemishine cuts through all that caked on shit like no one's business. Use a q tip soaked with the same solution for all the crap stuck on the crown if it builds up there too. Ultrasonic cleaner makes it way easier, but soaking it works just fine too, you'll have to swab out the carbon though.
     
    Well then..... Luckily mine hasn't turned pink at this point, but time to stop with that method before it does. Thanks for the heads up. Saved me from looking like a dipshit/idiot
     
    Obviously most everyone so far has removable brakes. Mine is not removable so when I am cleaning the barrel some of the Boretech gets on/in the brake. after the barrel is clean I get a rag and run the corners through all of the holes. Any other ideas?
     
    I have a APA little B. They say on video to use Lemishine to clean their brake. Their brake is nitrated. If Lemishine turns nitrate pink, why would they say to use it?
     
    Lemishine will also eat through a nitride finish. I soaked my APA LB in a cup of hot water mixed with a tablespoon of Lemishine. It came out clean AF but also in bare metal!!!
     
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