Concrete grinding
- Thread starter SniperCJ
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Re: Concrete grinding
4" angle grinder w/ a masonary disk
4" angle grinder w/ a masonary disk
Re: Concrete grinding
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: force_multiplier</div><div class="ubbcode-body">4" angle grinder w/ a masonary disk</div></div>
This works. Had to fix a sidewalk that the city wouldn't take care of this way.
If dry make sure to use mask. Of course make sure you have eye protection also
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: force_multiplier</div><div class="ubbcode-body">4" angle grinder w/ a masonary disk</div></div>
This works. Had to fix a sidewalk that the city wouldn't take care of this way.
If dry make sure to use mask. Of course make sure you have eye protection also
Re: Concrete grinding
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SniperCJ</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a crack I need to knock down a little. Its not a large area. Can this be done with a belt sander and big grit or do a hafta rent a dedicated concrete grinder?? </div></div>
There is some deflection between the two sides of the crack?
If all you are looking to do is knock down the high side do as The Mechanic says.
A couple masonry wheels in case one breaks makes good sense and a face shield is a good idea since a dust mask will fog the shit out of your safety glasses.
Unless it's still really cold in your neck of the woods!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SniperCJ</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a crack I need to knock down a little. Its not a large area. Can this be done with a belt sander and big grit or do a hafta rent a dedicated concrete grinder?? </div></div>
There is some deflection between the two sides of the crack?
If all you are looking to do is knock down the high side do as The Mechanic says.
A couple masonry wheels in case one breaks makes good sense and a face shield is a good idea since a dust mask will fog the shit out of your safety glasses.
Unless it's still really cold in your neck of the woods!
Re: Concrete grinding
Grinder works with a masonry disc. Go further than just a dust mask and wear a respirator and goggles too. Nice idea is to keep the area around it wet if possible to help keep the dust down.
Grinder works with a masonry disc. Go further than just a dust mask and wear a respirator and goggles too. Nice idea is to keep the area around it wet if possible to help keep the dust down.
Re: Concrete grinding
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: queequeg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There is some deflection between the two sides of the crack?</div></div>
Yes. Its not that much, but its inside and we're putting in pergo floors so it needs to be less deflection than it is now. Good thing is its mostly in a closet, so its not super critical.
Can I keep it (reasonably) level with the masonry disk?
And before you bring it up, yes it was the result of foundation shifting, but that issue has been resolved. This is just some aftermath
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: queequeg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There is some deflection between the two sides of the crack?</div></div>
Yes. Its not that much, but its inside and we're putting in pergo floors so it needs to be less deflection than it is now. Good thing is its mostly in a closet, so its not super critical.
Can I keep it (reasonably) level with the masonry disk?
And before you bring it up, yes it was the result of foundation shifting, but that issue has been resolved. This is just some aftermath
Re: Concrete grinding
Inside??? If you have a shop vac with a clean filter, preferably one with a bag too, you should hang some visquine and tape your self into the area you are going to grind so the dust doesn't get all over the place. Run the vacuum as a dust collector inside "the membrane".
A wet grinder is better for keeping the dust down and you can just use the shop vac (without the bag) to vacuum the slurry. These grinders are usually larger and available at most tool rental places. I have "seen people"
use a regular angle grinder with a cone wheel, do the same thing in small areas though with field expedient irrigation. You can grind a little slower and irrigate safely as long as you plug into a GFCI receptacle and stay on top of the puddle of slurry.
http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/BoschAccessoryDetail.aspx?pid=343
Inside??? If you have a shop vac with a clean filter, preferably one with a bag too, you should hang some visquine and tape your self into the area you are going to grind so the dust doesn't get all over the place. Run the vacuum as a dust collector inside "the membrane".
A wet grinder is better for keeping the dust down and you can just use the shop vac (without the bag) to vacuum the slurry. These grinders are usually larger and available at most tool rental places. I have "seen people"
http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/BoschAccessoryDetail.aspx?pid=343
Re: Concrete grinding
CJ - if its a small crack an angle grinder and masonry disk should work. Given your underneath a laminate install you will have to relieve the material enough to properly level it afterwards. Could you solve the issue with a loose thin-set install? It may save you a bigger mess of grinding the material out....just an idea.
CJ - if its a small crack an angle grinder and masonry disk should work. Given your underneath a laminate install you will have to relieve the material enough to properly level it afterwards. Could you solve the issue with a loose thin-set install? It may save you a bigger mess of grinding the material out....just an idea.
Re: Concrete grinding
If your doing a standard "Laminate" install you should also have an underlayment going in between the material and the concrete clab - there are various thickness material available....you may find something that would work and negate any fixes at all...
I just dropped in 1300sqft of tile last weekend....and used that Schulter Ditra material as my backer instead of hardy....if you intend to do some tile work I would highly reccomend it. We placed 1300sqft of Ditra in 3hrs...which is roughly an 18hr savings in labor install. That stuff is extremely easy to install and works even better than concrete board...just throwing the info out there if your also looking at tile work.
If your doing a standard "Laminate" install you should also have an underlayment going in between the material and the concrete clab - there are various thickness material available....you may find something that would work and negate any fixes at all...
I just dropped in 1300sqft of tile last weekend....and used that Schulter Ditra material as my backer instead of hardy....if you intend to do some tile work I would highly reccomend it. We placed 1300sqft of Ditra in 3hrs...which is roughly an 18hr savings in labor install. That stuff is extremely easy to install and works even better than concrete board...just throwing the info out there if your also looking at tile work.
