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Coup De Grâce, New Action from American Rifle Company, $899 WOW!

Hmmm, I’m waiting for a .535” bolt head that I ordered after the fact for my LA when I changed my direction. I was just going to get in touch with them about it.

I’ll probably still send an email their way.

Good info though.
 
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I just want to say that I finally got around to picking up my LA from the LGS. On a Tuesday and it caused a bunch of conversation with the guys. Both behind the counter and a couple customers. A couple guys had to have more info as most had never seen such a nice custom action.

Understand that I don’t go to the LGS unless I am picking something up.

Fit and finish on this action is far superior to any other action I know of less than $1500. Not an expert opinion, just mine. Very nice out of the box.
 
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How are yall measuring case head to ogive with these actions?

Normally I'd pull the firing pin and use the bolt closing to feel whether the bullet is in the lands. If I understand the CDG bolt design correctly I can't do this.
 
I don’t know, that’s why I’m asking. Are both necessary?
Barrel in barrel vise and action wrench in the action.

How else were you planning to turn the action and torque it down…pipe wrench?

Before you attempt anything to do with installing or removing a barrel and action, I suggest watching some YT vids on the subject. Many of them out there.
 
How are yall measuring case head to ogive with these actions?

Normally I'd pull the firing pin and use the bolt closing to feel whether the bullet is in the lands. If I understand the CDG bolt design correctly I can't do this.

Use a comparator and modified case. (Edit: I meant to type OAL gauge.)

Or strip the bolt and use a bit of thin scotch tape to hold the bolt head retaining pin in place, or just stick the firing pin in the bolt body without the firing pin spring to keep the bolt head cross pin in place. Do not install the bolt shroud, bolt shroud lock pin, or cocking piece. You then have a partially stripped bolt you can use to feel for headspace when adjusting your sizing die or feel for the lands, and the bolt head retaining pin won't back out and bind things up.
 
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Use a comparator and modified case.

Or strip the bolt and use a bit of thin scotch tape to hold the bolt head retaining pin in place, or just stick the firing pin in the bolt body without the firing pin spring to keep the bolt head cross pin in place. Do not install the bolt shroud, bolt shroud lock pin, or cocking piece. You then have a partially stripped bolt you can use to feel for headspace when adjusting your sizing die or feel for the lands, and the bolt head retaining pin won't back out and bind things up.
That last option sounds like it'll work, thanks.
 
Finally got some time to shoot. Went out today to "break in" the barrel according to PVA's web site. This was my first time putting a rifle together. This was 100 yards with a somewhat Mickey Mouse Caldwell bag and front rest, some crusty old Remington Core-Lokt ammo (yes, I used that stuff because I didn't want to use better ammo for break-in) and a dude behind the trigger that really needs much more time behind the trigger...like a LOT more time compared to many of you guys.

Anyway, didn't measure the group, but those are one inch squares, so make your own guess. The first round (of 5) is the flyer closest to the bullseye, which was on the clean barrel. So I'm just gonna call it my fouler shot, and brush it off as inconsequential. Or maybe it was me. :(

CDG, PVA 22" 6.5CM Marksman profile, XLR Element 4.0MG, Trigger Tech Special, Steiner T6, M-Brace rings.

image000000(89).jpg
 
Finally got some time to shoot. Went out today to "break in" the barrel according to PVA's web site. This was my first time putting a rifle together. This was 100 yards with a somewhat Mickey Mouse Caldwell bag and front rest, some crusty old Remington Core-Lokt ammo (yes, I used that stuff because I didn't want to use better ammo for break-in) and a dude behind the trigger that really needs much more time behind the trigger...like a LOT more time compared to many of you guys.

Anyway, didn't measure the group, but those are one inch squares, so make your own guess. The first round (of 5) is the flyer closest to the bullseye, which was on the clean barrel. So I'm just gonna call it my fouler shot, and brush it off as inconsequential. Or maybe it was me. :(

CDG, PVA 22" 6.5CM Marksman profile, XLR Element 4.0MG, Trigger Tech Special, Steiner T6, M-Brace rings.

View attachment 8256503
100 yards?

I got to shoot mine chambered in 6 gt with no load work the other day only out to 290 yards
 

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Finally got some time to shoot. Went out today to "break in" the barrel according to PVA's web site. This was my first time putting a rifle together. This was 100 yards with a somewhat Mickey Mouse Caldwell bag and front rest, some crusty old Remington Core-Lokt ammo (yes, I used that stuff because I didn't want to use better ammo for break-in) and a dude behind the trigger that really needs much more time behind the trigger...like a LOT more time compared to many of you guys.

Anyway, didn't measure the group, but those are one inch squares, so make your own guess. The first round (of 5) is the flyer closest to the bullseye, which was on the clean barrel. So I'm just gonna call it my fouler shot, and brush it off as inconsequential. Or maybe it was me. :(

CDG, PVA 22" 6.5CM Marksman profile, XLR Element 4.0MG, Trigger Tech Special, Steiner T6, M-Brace rings.

View attachment 8256503
That looks really promising. Keep that Remington brass for reloading or if not planning to reload, sell it here.

Once you get comfortable on the rifle, take a class somewhere. The experience is usually a good time and plenty learned, especially the better classes.
 
Use a comparator and modified case.

Or strip the bolt and use a bit of thin scotch tape to hold the bolt head retaining pin in place, or just stick the firing pin in the bolt body without the firing pin spring to keep the bolt head cross pin in place. Do not install the bolt shroud, bolt shroud lock pin, or cocking piece. You then have a partially stripped bolt you can use to feel for headspace when adjusting your sizing die or feel for the lands, and the bolt head retaining pin won't back out and bind things up.
Or Hornady OAL gauge to find CBTO at jam. I can’t see why it wouldn’t work even with conical breech or am I wrong (which is my super power! Lol).
 
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Or Hornady OAL gauge to find CBTO at jam. I can’t see why it wouldn’t work even with conical breech or am I wrong (which is my super power! Lol).

When I wrote comparator with a modified case I meant to write use an OAL gauge with a modified case.

Also, it's always very important to make sure the modified case used with the OAL gauge will actually chamber in your rifle... I've had a few modified cases that the bolt didn't close on, in which case your ogive measurements will be *way* off. I had to FL size the modified cases with the neck bushing removed from the die, problem solved.
 
When I wrote comparator with a modified case I meant to write use an OAL gauge with a modified case.

Also, it's always very important to make sure the modified case used with the OAL gauge will actually chamber in your rifle... I've had a few modified cases that the bolt didn't close on, in which case your ogive measurements will be *way* off. I had to FL size the modified cases with the neck bushing removed from the die, problem solved.
Thanks. I’m sure you know you can send a fired case from your specific chamber (and brass of your choice) and they’ll thread it for their OAL gauge.

My chambers have all bee SAAMI and I’ve not run into any issues using the one that came with the tool, but I will do so on next barrel (which will be for the CDG I’ll be getting soon, I hope) for the hell of it. Truth is I use binder plate mags and mag length keeps me well away from the lands. So, start at mag length and back up during LD but shooting these Berger .264 140 hybrids I really haven’t seen where I’ve bought anything with increased seating depth.

I may talk to my chose smith about slightly reduced free bore but I understand that in general these bullets are very jump tolerant. We’ll see when I have new barrel spun up.

Cheers and thanks for the reply.
 
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Yes, just 100 yards. That's all I can shoot at my place. Need to get to a range after experimenting with some more ammo here at home.
 
That looks really promising. Keep that Remington brass for reloading or if not planning to reload, sell it here.

Once you get comfortable on the rifle, take a class somewhere. The experience is usually a good time and plenty learned, especially the better classes.
Classes are in the plans at some point. Built the rifle to be multi-purpose, as I can't justify several rifles at what it costs to build one.

Went with the lightweight chassis because I have plans for a carbon barrel in the near future for a hunting setup, and I can always add weights to my longer range configuration. Gotta love the changeable bolt heads and today's ability to order pre-fits.
 
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How are yall measuring case head to ogive with these actions?

Normally I'd pull the firing pin and use the bolt closing to feel whether the bullet is in the lands. If I understand the CDG bolt design correctly I can't do this.
You don’t need the action to find the lands.
 
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I picked up my short action and barrel from the FFL this afternoon. Ordered from Preferred Barrel Blanks on 31 August, shipped on 12 October. They had a little delay with getting some tooling in but were great about communicating and still shipped pretty quickly.

Man this thing is smooth. Its my first custom action and it makes my other rifles feel like toys.
 

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I cannot finish my build until I get the correct bolt head in from ARC. My fault since I changed direction well after I ordered the action. Waiting on the 0.535” bolt head to come in.

Anyway, in the meantime, I hung the 2-stage Huber trigger I’ve had for 8+ years and never used. Easy peasy setup and adjustment. Smooth as silk bolt throw with no drag or catch at the end. I love the way this trigger hanger works.
 
Anyone know how to get through to ARC? I've been trying to order two replacement trigger hangers for a month. No one is available on the phone (the "mailbox is full"), and no one is getting back to me in email.

Buhler, buhler, buhler....
 
Anyone know how to get through to ARC? I've been trying to order two replacement trigger hangers for a month. No one is available on the phone (the "mailbox is full"), and no one is getting back to me in email.

Buhler, buhler, buhler....
I’ve got them by phone and e-mail in the past two days. You want me to send you the contact info I used?
 
Oh, that barrel action was up with me at Mifflin in PA at the Frank Galli course.

It had no problems shooting out to 1000 yards…

… well, it had one problem: the PVA barrel got faster while I was up there, to the tune of 75 ft./s by the time we were done shooting the second day.

I had re-chrono to that puppy, and it was an eye-opener to see how much faster the barrel got once it broke in!
 
I cannot finish my build until I get the correct bolt head in from ARC. My fault since I changed direction well after I ordered the action. Waiting on the 0.535” bolt head to come in.

Anyway, in the meantime, I hung the 2-stage Huber trigger I’ve had for 8+ years and never used. Easy peasy setup and adjustment. Smooth as silk bolt throw with no drag or catch at the end. I love the way this trigger hanger works.
Which bolt head do you have now?
 
If any of you guys need a new barrel, I posted a drop in over in the for sale threads. (…and I do mean the mother of all barrels.)
 
My order from 5/25 got a shipping label today. Short action with a .473 and a .532 head. Guess I should probably scrounge up the rest of the parts now. Lol. I was really hoping proof would offer a prefit before it got here. At least MDT did me a solid and released the adjustable bottom metal.
 
Funny enough I got both of those bolts as well. And all the other stuff that I ordered shortly after the action shipped today.

So it looks like they will ship all your additional parts when you’re action ships
 
My order from 5/25 got a shipping label today. Short action with a .473 and a .532 head. Guess I should probably scrounge up the rest of the parts now. Lol. I was really hoping proof would offer a prefit before it got here. At least MDT did me a solid and released the adjustable bottom metal.
Looks like they are waiting for 378 bolt heads, I have a RH SA from 5/15 with 473 and 373 bolt heads still in preparation, so I should be soon.

Oops wrote too soon, just got notification they have shipped it, will be here next week
 
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For those who have tested it, how are standard flat-face barrels feeding for .373 and .478 cases? I want to be able to use barrel-nut barrels if possible and it seems like what I've seen is that a few guys have tried regular savage small shank barrels in smaller cartridges in the CDG and they're feeding ok. I'd love some feedback and info on this.