File the corner on the follower to make a ramp so the bolt pushes it out of the way.
- Thread starter karagias
- Start date
Sounds correct.
File a bevel on the back of the follower & you'll be able to close the bolt on an empty mag.
If you ever plan to single load a round (easy with CDG) you'll want that follower beveled.
Oh I remember the clown who made that post…. He’s such a doodoo head
Octember doesn't end til new years anyway.Oh I remember the clown who made that post…. He’s such a doodoo head
Yes I know it was a joke. I also don't have a stick in this game.
I'm not richThat's also why I said "around a grand or less"...in USD...if it's gotta be more, then oh well, but...gotta check the cheap seats first.
Life hack: Get a left hand folder that you can afford and pull the bolt when you fold it for storage. Now it is the same width as a right hand folder for half the cost.
Anyone with a CDG also shoot a 6.5x55 of some flavor? Curious if the bolt head will fit the Euro brass or not
Running AW magazines?
I am dropping off a barrel at my gunsmith to put it on my action, I can test it out while I am there tomorrow, will report back
Perfect, thank you
Did anyone change their mind with a long action? Thinking about doing a 7 prc
How are people liking this after several hundred (or more) rounds ?
How are people liking this after several hundred (or more) rounds ?
Yeah I did, but not in the way you’re asking. I decided to do 7PRC in July and have the action, but am waiting on the correct bolt head now. Had I been thinking, I would have ordered a .30 something barrel also, to use the Lapua bolt head with while waiting.
Sweet, only thing keeping me from doing the Swede was the larger rim on the Lapua, etc brass
How do you like that bipod? Nice build.
Because I can’t leave stuff alone, thought I’d try a darker color combo on the bolt body… and stuck a bronze G3 on top coz I thought it fit better 
I believe most are running the pivoting handle. I'm running it with no issues. I don't really notice it while I'm shooting although I'm aware that it does flex part of the time during the bolt cycling.
Honestly, both are perfectly fine.
I got an action from someone that did not have the pivoting bolt throw, and the cool thing was just how far it would throw brass.
With the pivoting handle, I've noticed you can be aggressive or not, and it will pile brass next to the gun OR launch it.
Anyone have their CDG up and running in one of the magnum calibers like 6.5 PRC or 7 PRC? If so, how is feeding? I know the 6 o'clock lug cut probably isn't an issue with single feed mags and larger diameter magnum calibers (like it can be with say 223AI) but I figured I would ask.
I'm torn between using my existing Archimedes LA for a new hunting rifle build or buying a CDG LA. The Archimedes being a single feed only action will feed perfectly, but I'm also confident the CDG will feed smoothly with larger diameter magnum rounds out of a center feed magazine.
While I like the toolless takedown of the CDG, for a hunting rifle I really, really like the security of the rotating Archimedes bolt stop that is 99% never going to accidentally open itself and drop the bolt. Only reason I even worry about that is several years ago a friend had a bolt somehow manage to open and exit itself from his rifle when pushing through some thick brush, we backtracked and found it. I can see that being a slim possibility with the CDG since it's a spring loaded side button style bolt release, but it's a near impossibility that the rotating bolt stop on the Archimedes is going to somehow rotate itself to the open position by accidental snags.
Only reason I'm asking now is PVA's black friday sale is coming up very shortly, and a carbon osprey in 7PRC is very tempting... and while I suppose I could technically order a 7PRC Archimedes prefit and it would work on either a CDG or Archimedes since magnum cartridges really don't need the conical breech with the CDG, if I'm going to switch to an CDG I would want to order a CDG prefit to have the conical breech.
Appreciate any input... I know these are first world problems, LOL
I'm torn between using my existing Archimedes LA for a new hunting rifle build or buying a CDG LA. The Archimedes being a single feed only action will feed perfectly, but I'm also confident the CDG will feed smoothly with larger diameter magnum rounds out of a center feed magazine.
While I like the toolless takedown of the CDG, for a hunting rifle I really, really like the security of the rotating Archimedes bolt stop that is 99% never going to accidentally open itself and drop the bolt. Only reason I even worry about that is several years ago a friend had a bolt somehow manage to open and exit itself from his rifle when pushing through some thick brush, we backtracked and found it. I can see that being a slim possibility with the CDG since it's a spring loaded side button style bolt release, but it's a near impossibility that the rotating bolt stop on the Archimedes is going to somehow rotate itself to the open position by accidental snags.
Only reason I'm asking now is PVA's black friday sale is coming up very shortly, and a carbon osprey in 7PRC is very tempting... and while I suppose I could technically order a 7PRC Archimedes prefit and it would work on either a CDG or Archimedes since magnum cartridges really don't need the conical breech with the CDG, if I'm going to switch to an CDG I would want to order a CDG prefit to have the conical breech.
Appreciate any input... I know these are first world problems, LOL
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You know, I have a 300 PRC on a TRG-42 A1 that would be perfect for you….
… in case you want to part with that horrible CDG long action!
You know, I have a 300 PRC on a TRG-42 A1 that would be perfect for you….
… in case you want to part with that horrible CDG long action!
Don't have a long action CDG yet... I do have a long action Archimedes though. Just trying to decide if I want to build on that or sell it and buy a long action CDG.
I love my short action 22gt CDG, but for a hunting build I really like the security of the Archimedes bolt release...
Coincidentally I have a SA and LA CDG chambered in each of those calibers, so far feeding has been flawless on both with savage prefit barrels.
Our rifle deer season doesn’t start for another couple weeks so I haven’t taken them hunting yet but you would have to try pretty hard to get the bolt to fall out.
Were your PRC barrels chambered specifically for the CDG, and if so do they have the conical breech? I know Ted said the cone is optional for the larger diameter magnum and lapua boltheads, but I'm curious if your PRC barrels have the cone and if so how much of the cone is actually there given the larger case diameter.
I still can't decide if I should sell my LA Archimedes and order a LA CDG to replace it. Having a bolt drop out like what happened to my friend a couple years back is a total freak occurrence, but it's something I think about now. However, if I use a stock with a cheek rest and it's raised up enough that the bolt can't come all the way out of the action without lowering or removing the cheek rest first that would reduce my worries.
I’d just keep the Archimedes if you own it already tbh.
That's what I'm thinking, I already have it and I know they work very well. Besides, with the conical breech being optional for magnum calibers in the CDG, if I get an Archimedes prefit now and decide to switch to a CDG later the barrel will still work.
I'm going to build another 223AI (or maybe a 20-223AI) on my spare short action Archimedes instead of a CDG, because while my 22GT CDG is awesome a few people in this thread who built 223AI's on the CDG have said you have to run it fast or the neck/shoulder junction hangs up on the edge of the chamber because of the angle the CDG feeds the small 223 cases into the chamber. I don't have that issue on my current 223AI Archimedes, it feeds great slow or fast, but it has a full feed ramp.
Both of mine are standard savage prefits with no cone, the 6.5 PRC is a carbon 6 off my Archimedes and the 7 PRC is an X-Caliber. My brother also has a CDG in 30-06 with an X Caliber barrel that has a slight chamfer to the chamber but not a coned breech and it feeds fine.
Good info, thanks. Now I just have to wait and see if PVA is going to have 7 twist carbon wrapped 7mm barrels on their black friday sale. An 8 twist would work for copper monolithics, but 7.5 or 7 twist would be preferred. Josh said he has a lot of 7mm blanks on hand for this year's sale.
A couple things:
I have a LA CDG that’s waiting on the correct bolt head for me to finish up. I picked up a 7 twist barrel from SPR, though they said their experience has been that the 8 twist works fine with the heavies and monos.
Mine is a coned 7 PRC barrel. There is plenty of come still, thought I realize it not necessary. I figured that since I’ll likely be doing some hand feeding with this build, I wanted the additional smoothness. Probably completely unnecessary, but it was no more to do it.
Hey Sentinel!Here you go.
And beauty pics, while the barrel is on order..
Any issues loading from a magazine with your Cadex chassis and the CDG? I'm having some difficulty feeding from a CIP magazine with my LA CDG. It's almost as if the magazine well is too far forward because the bullet tips hit the bottom of the feed ramp on the CDG and can't load at all. Single feeding works great and so does stripping from the magazine if the bottom portion of the chassis is removed and the magazine manually located where I believe it should be. Cadex is supposed to look into it. I'm hoping it's just a matter of replacing the magazine well parts.
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I'm running a 300 PRC with a 32" McGowan barrel that was originally on a Mausingfield action (square breech). Took it out to 2150 yards today for the second time shooting it (first time was yesterday when I shot 5 rounds zeroing it in). Single feed functioned flawlessly without a hint of a problem. Stripping from a CIP magazine in a Cadex chassis is giving me some grief right now, but I think it's something we'll figure out.
I have a brand new 1:8" ratchet .308 cal 32" (30" finished length) Shilen Select Match Grade Heavy Palma (#HP) profile blank that I'm looking to sell if you're interested. No wait time! Was going to use it with my 300 PRC build, but ended up getting a 32" McGowan 1.25" straight barrel from my shooting buddy that was too wide to fit into his chassis. Thing's like a truck axel (and as heavy as one too), but it fit in my Cadex chassis and shot great out to 2150 yards on its second day out shooting today.
anyone know how the red color on the bolt knob compares to MPA USMC red? I wanna see if they match. If not Im gonna do NRA Blue on my chassis
I’m thinking it might have to do with both the mag being a bit forward and perhaps tipping forward. Is there room in the mag well to try a shim up front to keep that from happening? We know that for SA using standard AICS mags, this can be an issue and is why ARC provides that’s small piece with the action to keep the front of the mag back and up.
If there’s no room in the mag well to do the above, you might need to look into a way to shorten where the mag latch engages. How much room is there between the bolt and the mag feed lips?
I haven't gotten mine together yet. Just got barrel on Friday, so probably finish putting the build together this week and break it in on the weekend. Will advise once I have it together and a chance to test it out.
I do note that the MDT mag does not lock in the chassis with the action in place. Very close, but will have to file the latch slightly.
I'm seeing the same thing with the MDT mag that you are (not locking in place), but I'm thinking there's more to the problem than that. If you have a dummy round made up, try to load it in your magazine and see where the bullet tip aligns with the feed ramp on the receiver. For reference, my 300 PRC cartridge is about 3.750" long overall, which is about .025" less than the maximum length the magazine can accept (which places the bullet about 0.015" shy of the lands).
I have an XLR Element 4.0 and I believe you could make it fold over the bolt with a little tinkering. I say this because when mine arrived it was set up backwards for me, and the stock did...kind of...fold over the bolt handle. It rubbed a little bit but it did fold over it. I had to reverse the folding adapter for my setup. (the chassis are ambidextrous) These chassis use an AR style buffer tube nut. The stock screws into the folding adapter and is tightened with a buffer tube nut. There are also different length adapters that screw onto the stock (which then screws into the folding adapter).I've been following this thread since day one, and in May I ordered a short action w/.308 bolt head, and in June a long action w/.308 bolt head (16" 308 and long boi 30-06 are the plans, respectively)...the short action was delivered this week! I ordered barrels from PVA (30-06 back during the July 4 sale, and a 308 just last week as well)...as I gather all the bits and bobs, one thing I don't recall seeing or maybe missed in the thread -
Are there any folding stock chassis that fit the CDG, where the stock folds to the right/over the bolt handle? I found this with some digging and was actively considering the Magpul until I found it; price was right, I liked the stock/chassis, Magpul is generally good...but if it doesn't fit over the bolt handle, then that's that, dead in the water. Is there anything else out there that'll work the way I hope it will? Hopefully for a grand or less?
So what I'm saying is you could probably play with how far in or out you screw the stock, and/or change adapter lengths to get clearance of the bolt knob. Don't misunderstand what I'm saying here...it's not "supposed" to work that way. I'm just saying I think you could make it work. I'm running the C6. If you want the lightweight carbon stock, it's a very open design and may work pretty easily.
For feeding from the mag, seems to function ok for me; ended up filing the mag rather than the catch but didn't take much to get it latching nicely. Small file on Leatherman tool worked wonderfully.
That’s what I thought. I’ll find out soon enough. My bolt head shipped and is probably at home waiting for me when I get home later this week.
Thanks for confirming.
I'm having an issue with a bix n Andy tac sport, the sear doesn't catch the coxking piece all the time. Trying to figure out if this is a sear height issue (I sm pretty sure it is) or did I set up the hanger incorrectly.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Did you read the instructions that came with the action for setting the hanger correctly? There’s quite a bit of height adjustment available using it correctly. I’m not home right now, but I can take a picture of the bottom of the hanger to point out the adjustment screw for height. (Hint: it’s the front screw).
From watching Ted's video on the trigger hanger, the front screw controls fore/aft movement and the rear tightens everything so it doesn't move when the cocking piece isn't pushing on anything. The height I thought wasn't controlled but is set up matching and the tolerances in the prints, am I wrong?
It’s not bright USMC red.
Not even close to the same red.
Actually, forward and aft movement is controlled and limited by the rear screw. The front screw is a secondary height control adjustment.
Look carefully at the cutout in the action where the front screw rests. It’s a ramp that allows for you to adjust height. Note especially that the front screw does Not tighten the hanger in any way. It is a height adjustment screw. The rear screw is what holds the hanger in place.
If you do not have enough sear engagement, then you need to back that front screw out a very little bit to allow the front of the hanger to set deeper and thus increase seer engagement. I had to screw mine in because I was getting bolt drag even at maximum forward (and thus the least height) position.
I would not adjust front screw depth more than 1/4 turn at a time. Try it. You’ll see that I’m right.
If I recall correctly, Ted briefly alludes to or mentions it when he talks about the front screw in the video, but he does not dwell on it at all.
Let me know how that works out for you.
As a summary and an afterward, moving the hanger backward or forward changes engagement height due to the ramp design in the front of the action cut. That IS the primary height adjustment mechanism and will cover the majority of triggers and cases. A front screw adjustment is only needed on the occasion that your seer engagement cannot be satisfactorily adjusted using the primary method.
Have I made it as clear as mud yet?
FWIW this is my gun but an actual photographer photo. Glass Image Photos.
Maybe Color resolution is better on this IDK?
Hi Thauglor!
I had a similar problem with my Tac Sport 2-stage trigger too. Basically, the firing pin would drop just by cycling the action. I adjusted the pull weight to the heaviest location but it still dropped. I was all set to change out the Top Sear in the trigger when I started playing around with the bottom sear engagement screw. Sure enough, that's all it took. Now I have the first stage set to about 1.5 lb and the second stage set to about 10 oz and I can cycle the action as fast and hard as I like without any accidental drops. It's really a nice trigger!
The adjustable hanger on the CDG is fantastic! I was able to tune the trigger location so that there's barely a perceptible difference between drop or cock on close/open.
