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Didn't know I'd be joining this community yesterday. Would someone please educate me on this rifle?

I'm looking for recs for cheap practice ammo. I've already been recommended Federal 168 MatchKing for the "good stuff".

Does anyone have experience with Igman 147gr?
You're going off track now. Find a round it likes and don't deviate. Mixing and matching will only bring you pain and suffering, as well as internet scorn. Ditch the FGMM 168s and go with the 175s, they will handle transonic better.
 
I'm looking for recs for cheap practice ammo. I've already been recommended Federal 168 MatchKing for the "good stuff".

Does anyone have experience with Igman 147gr?


Would you buy an exotic sports car and put 87 octane in it?



Most guys will scoff at the idea of cheap ammo in a precision rifle because you're handicapping the rifle's ability (which is true). I'll add that putting cheap ammo through one might produce results so inconsistent that you lose enjoyment in shooting the rifle. Add that even a layman should see a decent accuracy inequality in results, both up close (and especially at distance) between premium and surplus-level ammunition.

Without investing much more, try a box or two of 147gr ball, and then match ammo - and see what your rifle likes before buying more. I'm going to go out on a limb and bet that the FGMM stuff will make smiles.
 
I'm looking for recs for cheap practice ammo. I've already been recommended Federal 168 MatchKing for the "good stuff".

Does anyone have experience with Igman 147gr?
Federal Gold Medal Match? Used to have bunch on hand as test ammo. If barrel didn't shoot FGMM sub MOA, I would kinda shit my pants.
 
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Federal Gold Medal Match? Used to have bunch on hand as test ammo. If barrel didn't shoot FGMM sub MOA, I would kinda shit my pants.
I think so, here's a pic.
 

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Does anyone have experience with Igman 147gr?
It'd be good in your M60.



It is however always interesting to see people ask questions about something or what they paid, AFTER they've already bought it.
Kinda too late now Sparky ain't it? :D At least you're not doing that with the ammo. ;)
 
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It'd be good in your M60.



It is however always interesting to see people ask questions about something or what they paid, AFTER they've already bought it.
Kinda too late now Sparky ain't it? :D At least you're not doing that with the ammo. ;)
The learning is one of my favorite parts of any hobby, and I always find that it's more fun to learn with the toy in hand!
 
Welp, that's one way to make an entrance into this shooting world! I'd say get some FGMM 168gr and test the precision!
I have a 500 point check list for a new rig, but that would get lost on you pretty quick. Make sure the bore is dry of lube/oils, make sure action screws are tight to manual spec, scope ring screws are snug (20inch-lbs) and shoot the badass girl! Do get a torque wrench kit.

Can you post a full pic to check the general position of the scope?
I got myself a wheeler FAT torque wrench and checked out the torque specs. Which screws are the action screws?
 
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Hmm.. maybe I am missing it but I don't see any screws under there
Pretty sure you’d have to remove the plastic skins to see the bolts.

But you’re missing the point, most AI actions are epoxied to the chassis (plus bolted). AFAIK, the AW is like this.

You don’t want to debond the thing unless you have a great reason to. Checking the torque isn’t a great reason.
 
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Pretty sure you’d have to remove the plastic skins to see the bolts.

But you’re missing the point, most AI actions are epoxied to the chassis (plus bolted). AFAIK, the AW is like this.

Until you debond the chassis, you’re not loosening or tightening the screws is what we’re trying to say.

And you don’t want to do that unless you have a great reason to. Checking the torque isn’t a great reason.
Thanks for the explanation. I was only wondering because it was recommended to me to check the torque specs on the action screws.
 
Thanks for the explanation. I was only wondering because it was recommended to me to check the torque specs on the action screws.
And don’t use a torque wrench to loosen anything. I think there are a few torque wrenches that can handle unbolting something, but most cannot and it’ll damage them.
 
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Thanks for the explanation. I was only wondering because it was recommended to me to check the torque specs on the action screws.
Don’t touch the screws. Like said above it’s bonded being a legit AW

Had it been unbonded or just a chassis then yes
 
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Rail mounted levels rely on the rail being perfectly level in relation to the reticle
Yes, so you level them together. When the rail level is level, so are your crosshairs.
, which can be hit or miss.
???
Most prefer an optic mounted level so it can be leveled to the reticle.
I have both chassis levels and scope tube levels. Scope tube levels get bumped around and be a goat fuck depending on rings and turrets and real-estate of the scope tube.
 
The most important thing about owning an AI is learning how to walk around with your nose much higher than you’re used to and using pretentious undertones in your voice when talking about it with others.

Equally as important, you’ll need to learn to lift your bolt with your pinky extended as high and proud as possible, and your drink of choice after matches is always Perrier.

Welcome to the club!!
 
The most important thing about owning an AI is learning how to walk around with your nose much higher than you’re used to and using pretentious undertones in your voice when talking about it with others.

Equally as important, you’ll need to learn to lift your bolt with your pinky extended as high and proud as possible, and your drink of choice after matches is always Perrier.

Welcome to the club!!
Also important to note that nearby savage owners will immediately cower to your awesomeness. They become the AI shooters peons

Swapping out targets, fetching brass and overall making sure the AI shooter never gets thirsty, sunburnt or has any impact to their overall level of comfort will automatically become a duty of there’s in your presence

Whistles or claps can be handy for communication your every needs with them. They speak poor and it’s a language that being an AI owner for your first rifle you’ll unfortunately not have a chance to learn
 
The most important thing about owning an AI is learning how to walk around with your nose much higher than you’re used to and using pretentious undertones in your voice when talking about it with others.

Equally as important, you’ll need to learn to lift your bolt with your pinky extended as high and proud as possible, and your drink of choice after matches is always Perrier.

Welcome to the club!!
Absolute muh-fuckin boss hog would be the humble as fuck approach:
"In this case, got me here this used gun from the local funshop, hardey harrr. It's not my usual Savage Axis, but I got a deal.
Grandad made me some loads he said served him well in WWI fightun the Japs."

Then unzip, build position and smoke that steel like a champ. Load up and leave. LOL
 
The most important thing about owning an AI is learning how to walk around with your nose much higher than you’re used to and using pretentious undertones in your voice when talking about it with others.

Equally as important, you’ll need to learn to lift your bolt with your pinky extended as high and proud as possible, and your drink of choice after matches is always Perrier.

Welcome to the club!!
@BurtG can teach him how to paint it and break it too!
 
Also important to note that nearby savage owners will immediately cower to your awesomeness. They become the AI shooters peons

Swapping out targets, fetching brass and overall making sure the AI shooter never gets thirsty, sunburnt or has any impact to their overall level of comfort will automatically become a duty of there’s in your presence

Whistles or claps can be handy for communication your every needs with them. They speak poor and it’s a language that being an AI owner for your first rifle you’ll unfortunately not have a chance to learn
1694721504564.gif
 
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By someone who doesn't know shit about AI rifles, no doubt
That was me. Fuck bro, I knew the Brits are fucked up, but I didn’t know they epoxied the rifles. Just the general what to do with a new rig. I check my torque settings every range session like a fucken American with American shit! 🇺🇸 🤣
 
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That was me. Fuck bro, I knew the Brits are fucked up, but I didn’t know they epoxied the rifles. Just the general what to do with a new rig. I check my torque settings every range session like a fucken American with American shit! 🇺🇸 🤣
When you get your wheeler to check your action screws fetch me my water. It would also please me if you hum a mellow tune when you walk it up to me.

🤘😎🤘
 
I have my man servant do all the menial tasks, prepare my rifle for the shooting day and carry it the 25 steps to the firing line for me.
Here here! Jolly good.

C08BCBC8-5CC0-401E-A223-4E48C6A0375B.jpeg

A bit like this. Hold the umbrella or there will be slaps!

(It’s a real photo, I guess)

Or this…
503FF09D-71C4-43CA-B898-371B1684BA56.jpeg

The wee lad is the Prince of Wales (William), I believe, but you get the idea. The manservant always should be at least a step behind.
 
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The most important thing about owning an AI is learning how to walk around with your nose much higher than you’re used to and using pretentious undertones in your voice when talking about it with others.

Equally as important, you’ll need to learn to lift your bolt with your pinky extended as high and proud as possible, and your drink of choice after matches is always Perrier.

Welcome to the club!!
very important though, to remember, when its raining to look far enough down your nose so as to not drown...:ROFLMAO:
 
Yes, so you level them together. When the rail level is level, so are your crosshairs.

???

I have both chassis levels and scope tube levels. Scope tube levels get bumped around and be a goat fuck depending on rings and turrets and real-estate of the scope tube.

I've attached two rail mounted levels from the same manufacturer before and had them reading different things. All I'm saying is that I don't put a lot of trust in rail mounted levels as tolerances start getting stacked. Chassis mounted levels are a bit of a different story since the pockets are cnc cut and can be made dead nuts level, I have one in a Grayboe that's pretty cool. I've never had a scope mounted level slip if it was torqued on properly with a bit of blue loctite for good measure. You do have a point regarding real estate though, sometimes there just isn't enough to go around as scopes become more compact.
 
I've attached two rail mounted levels from the same manufacturer before and had them reading different things. All I'm saying is that I don't put a lot of trust in rail mounted levels as tolerances start getting stacked. Chassis mounted levels are a bit of a different story since the pockets are cnc cut and can be made dead nuts level, I have one in a Grayboe that's pretty cool. I've never had a scope mounted level slip if it was torqued on properly with a bit of blue loctite for good measure. You do have a point regarding real estate though, sometimes there just isn't enough to go around as scopes become more compact.
OK, I think I see the problem here. You level your crosshairs to the horizon, and then calibrate the levels to the crosshairs. Regardless the interface differences of the level on the rail, you just make that individual level read the same as the crosshair. Does that make sense?
 
OK, I think I see the problem here. You level your crosshairs to the horizon, and then calibrate the levels to the crosshairs. Regardless the interface differences of the level on the rail, you just make that individual level read the same as the crosshair. Does that make sense?
I'm picking up what you're laying down, I still prefer to go with a scope mounted level versus a rail mounted one, across multiple rifles it's never been an issue.
 
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