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Dillon 550 precision rifle loading

For you guys that are having issues with the failsafe rod, are you using extruded powders? I just recently switched to ball powders because I have grown tired of hand weighing or double checking every thrown charge. I was using a Redding BR powder measure for .30-06 to throw 4350 and it did okay. The other tool head had a Lee PPM for 4064 for the .308 loads. Now that I use ball powders I installed the Dillon PM along with the failsafe rod and I have no issues with it, my charges are within .2 of each other. If I have my technique down it's on the money every time.

not trouble per-say but the fail safe rod makes my 550 real clunky....not a smooth operation...without the fail safe rod it runs real smooth with varget N320 and CFE pistol.

another tip...i just got the frank ford arsenal primer tube filler....i can load 6 tubes in a matter of minutes....i have the double alpha tube filler and am not real impressed with it for what i paid for it...curious to see what primal rights comes out with.
 
Can I ask why not?

so if your not familiar with the DA primer tube filler it is basically a bowl you dump primers in and has slots the primers feed into then they are carried up to a chute and they slide down and into the tubes.

so the bowl spins via a motor...the primers are prone to getting out of the feed slots and under the bowl...I’ve had up to 7 primers under the bowl.

when this happens you have to stop and pull the bowl and get the primers out which is not real hard just a PITA and for what it costs it shouldn’t have these issues.

next it’s not as fast as they say it is but you can put a tube in it and let it go it stops at 98-100 primers via a sensor....if the primers feed quick enough...it also will not pick up and feed the last 3-8 primers.

I loaded 3 tubes with it and had one tube with an upside down primer and another with 2 upside down.

I tried adjusting the plate screws on the bowl and still does the same thing...I’ve ran at least 1k through it trying to adjust it with no luck.

ive loaded 1100 primers into tubes with the frank ford arsenal and I had 1 primer get cocked where they feed through the hole in the flip tray but a little shake and it was corrected and it’s pretty much impossible to get a primer u down.
 
I have a question for anyone still reading. I ordered the area 419 funnel and adapters to use with the Dillon powder die. For those of you running this setup, how do you have it setup? Do you set it up so there is a gap between the Dillon funnel and the a419 adapter? Or do you bump up against it? I worry about wear from steel on aluminum bumping it, but maybe it isn't a problem.
 
Some good videos on the topic:

For the 550 crowd:




More stuff available (XL750, etc.) if you want to browse:
 
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Some good videos on the topic:

For the 550 crowd:




More stuff available (XL750, etc.) if you want to browse:

Thanks for posting these. In fact, it was these videos that prodded me to get off my butt and just do it. I (thought) I had all of the expensive parts already. Turns out you can spend as much on dies these days as I spent on my 550 press 10 years ago.
 
Well, I decided to own up to my own stupidity. I cleaned my rifle last night. I managed to get all the way done before I noticed I didn't have to move my cheek riser or recoil pad... When I gave my rifle to mhsa to have them time the brake and check for thread alignment, they must have dropped it for clearance. That makes total sense, but I stupidly was so excited to finally have my can I didn't notice, beyond not being able to hit shit. So moral of the story, check your gear every time.

Going to load up some more test rounds this weekend and try again. Still shaking my head at myself for that one. I don't have any good Valkyrie ammo, so I might actually switch everything over and work on that, instead. I still have a case and a half of 6.5 Hornady.
 
I have been using a 550 for bottle neck cases (7BR; 7TCU, 300 Whisper/Blackout, .223, .221 Fireball for years. Shot my way into International class loading 7TCU rounds on a 550. Had unreasonably GOOD luck getting the Dillon powder throw to deliver good charges with a stick powder for the TCU (SR4759). (International class requires 40 hits on 40 targets with no misses; 10 each at 50, 100, 150 and 200 meters with a handgun, in the case I used custom Remington XP-100’s) So, I can say that using 550’s can save time and produce good rounds.

However, to use a 550 in a manner that saves time is fairly expensive. First, you need two, one for large primers one for small primers. Taking the time to change out primer setups is a pain. Next one needs a complete toolhead, including all dies and a powder throw for each caliber loaded. Otherwise, as previously mentioned, by the time a fellow installs everything and sets it up, a good single stage is just about as quick.

The failsafe rod is a bit tricky to set up, and I have found that it really likes a bit of tension throughout the process. As far as the shellplate. My son and I have found that putting a case in the shellplate and tighten it using the case to guide how tight it should be set. Then be especially sure to tighten the set screw. I had an issue with the main bolt binding the shellplate. Dillon replaced the bolt for free and that was the end of the problem.
99388095-3355-4EF6-A74A-B01CF8702A63.jpeg
 
I have been using a 550 for bottle neck cases (7BR; 7TCU, 300 Whisper/Blackout, .223, .221 Fireball for years. Shot my way into International class loading 7TCU rounds on a 550. Had unreasonably GOOD luck getting the Dillon powder throw to deliver good charges with a stick powder for the TCU (SR4759). (International class requires 40 hits on 40 targets with no misses; 10 each at 50, 100, 150 and 200 meters with a handgun, in the case I used custom Remington XP-100’s) So, I can say that using 550’s can save time and produce good rounds.

However, to use a 550 in a manner that saves time is fairly expensive. First, you need two, one for large primers one for small primers. Taking the time to change out primer setups is a pain. Next one needs a complete toolhead, including all dies and a powder throw for each caliber loaded. Otherwise, as previously mentioned, by the time a fellow installs everything and sets it up, a good single stage is just about as quick.

The failsafe rod is a bit tricky to set up, and I have found that it really likes a bit of tension throughout the process. As far as the shellplate. My son and I have found that putting a case in the shellplate and tighten it using the case to guide how tight it should be set. Then be especially sure to tighten the set screw. I had an issue with the main bolt binding the shellplate. Dillon replaced the bolt for free and that was the end of the problem. View attachment 7421786
Nice looking setup. I used the Dillon powder drop for 223 and 25-06 varmint loads with good success. I may try it again once I find a load I like. Powder is definitely the long part of my workflow.

40 rounds are loaded up, ready for testing.
 

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so if your not familiar with the DA primer tube filler it is basically a bowl you dump primers in and has slots the primers feed into then they are carried up to a chute and they slide down and into the tubes.

so the bowl spins via a motor...the primers are prone to getting out of the feed slots and under the bowl...I’ve had up to 7 primers under the bowl.

when this happens you have to stop and pull the bowl and get the primers out which is not real hard just a PITA and for what it costs it shouldn’t have these issues.

next it’s not as fast as they say it is but you can put a tube in it and let it go it stops at 98-100 primers via a sensor....if the primers feed quick enough...it also will not pick up and feed the last 3-8 primers.

I loaded 3 tubes with it and had one tube with an upside down primer and another with 2 upside down.

I tried adjusting the plate screws on the bowl and still does the same thing...I’ve ran at least 1k through it trying to adjust it with no luck.

ive loaded 1100 primers into tubes with the frank ford arsenal and I had 1 primer get cocked where they feed through the hole in the flip tray but a little shake and it was corrected and it’s pretty much impossible to get a primer u down.

Entirely Crimson makes a adaptor so you can use standard Dillon primer tubes in a Dillon RF100. I looked at the DAA but never felt like it was better than the RF100 I already own.
 
Entirely Crimson makes a adaptor so you can use standard Dillon primer tubes in a Dillon RF100. I looked at the DAA but never felt like it was better than the RF100 I already own.

i looked at the RF100 before and after getting the DAA but have read several complaints about it being slow and slow or not wanting to feed the last couple of primers(like the DAA)and have also watched a few videos of the RF100 in action and for almost $400 bucks IMHO not worth it.

for the cost difference i think the frank ford arsenal is the way to go....from the videos ive watched i can fill tubes as fast or if filling multiple tubes faster with the FFA...i think my next big purchase will be the XL750.
 
Nice looking setup. I used the Dillon powder drop for 223 and 25-06 varmint loads with good success. I may try it again once I find a load I like. Powder is definitely the long part of my workflow.

40 rounds are loaded up, ready for testing.

how do you like the 419 powder funnel set up?
 
Nice looking setup. I used the Dillon powder drop for 223 and 25-06 varmint loads with good success. I may try it again once I find a load I like. Powder is definitely the long part of my workflow.

40 rounds are loaded up, ready for testing.

You're using a chargemaster to dump powder right?

I got a 2nd chargemaster this spring on sale and I'm so glad I did. Two really changes the game. My Chargemaster 1500 is quite a bit faster than my Chargemaster Lite though.

If I load up 50-100 rounds, my 1500 will be responsible for about 60-70% of the total throws. Once I modded it quite a bit, it will often throw within a few seconds, either barely trickling or not trickling at all.

My last outing with 6.5cm, I did 3, 10-shot strings, with 2 of those strings shooting for good 5 shot groups. (dot drills on last one).
1 - ES 22 SD 7
2 - ES 5 SD 2
3 - ES 17 SD 4
Composite - ES 33 SD 8.5

Out of the 30 shots, I had 2 shots that dragged the ES from 27 to 33. Personally, I'm extremely happy with this, especially across a large shot group.
All ammo was loaded on Dillon 550 with the two chargemasters in Starline SRP virgin brass. My goal is to always have ES under 30, which I did for the individual 10 shot groups.

Watching those F-Class John videos really gave me a lot more confidence in loading on the 550.

I'm still a novice precision shooter, so still working on body position and recoil management, but at least I feel like my reloading game is doing pretty well. Always room for improvement though.
 

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i looked at the RF100 before and after getting the DAA but have read several complaints about it being slow and slow or not wanting to feed the last couple of primers(like the DAA)and have also watched a few videos of the RF100 in action and for almost $400 bucks IMHO not worth it.

for the cost difference i think the frank ford arsenal is the way to go....from the videos ive watched i can fill tubes as fast or if filling multiple tubes faster with the FFA...i think my next big purchase will be the XL750.

There are tons of negative reviews of the RF100 on the internet but I think most of them are operator error. Mine took a bit of set up to get it to 100% but it just chugs along now. I've had a few of the FA Vibra Primes and they all broke which is why I bought the Dillon. If I had to do it over again I'd just go straight to the Dillon. It isn't cheap but I think it is the best.
 
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There are tons of negative reviews of the RF100 on the internet but I think most of them are operator error. Mine took a bit of set up to get it to 100% but it just chugs along now. I've had a few of the FA Vibra Primes and they all broke which is why I bought the Dillon. If I had to do it over again I'd just go straight to the Dillon. It isn't cheap but I think it is the best.

damnit now you got me thinking about buying one.
 
My goal is to always have ES under 30,

this is exactly what im looking for...2 barrels ago my ES was avg 35 to 40fps but it shot so well i never chased it...if im 30fps or under im done because i always end up around there anyway.
 
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how do you like the 419 powder funnel set up?
Not much I say about it, really. It just works. No bridges, no spilled powder. I haven't tried to run a full case compressed load yet, and really don't intend to.

I guess for the price, it damn well ought to work flawlessly, and it does. I have the Dillon one with the plastic funnel as well, but with the gigantic seating dies we have these days, it won't fit without modification. I think the 419 solution is the only one that doesn't require some fab work.

Ultimately, I'm happy with the whole setup. Chargemaster is the slowest part of the process. I also had to concentrate pretty hard to keep myself on task when I was doing charge weight test loads. Being one behind when dropping charges vs seating the bullet required some extra attention. OAL did vary, but I didn't see more than 0.0025" over the whole lot.

As someone else said, an ES of less than 30 is the goal with under 25 being a nice bonus if it happens.

Range time is at noon. I'll post my results later.
 
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this is exactly what im looking for...2 barrels ago my ES was avg 35 to 40fps but it shot so well i never chased it...if im 30fps or under im done because i always end up around there anyway.

I wanna shoot and train to shoot at 1000yds, so an ES of 30 with my velocity and bullet creates about 7" of vertical. If I can "hypothetically" hold 1moa or better at 1000yds, thats a possible high end total of 17" of vertical which is still good enough to hit an IPSC target. Obviously I still have wind to deal with but still.

I think someone once said on a podcast they wanted +/- 0.1mil of error or less. So at 1000yds thats +/-3.6"... or 7.2" spread overall, or 30fps ES for my combo.


As someone else said, an ES of less than 30 is the goal with under 25 being a nice bonus if it happens.
Range time is at noon. I'll post my results later.

Theres also the difference in sample size with ES. To have an ES of 33 over 30 shots made me happy lol. For 5 shot or 10 shot samples, I'd like to see lower but would be fine with ES in the teens/twenties. I always review my individual velocities as well. If I see 28/30 shots that are within the 20 ES zone and then 2 that are unusually low then that makes me feel even better. Those two rounds could be one of two things:
1.) My cheap-ass $90 chronograph screwed up (has happened)
2.) My reloading process messed up on 2/30 rounds. I'm ok with that lol, always improving.
 
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I wanna shoot and train to shoot at 1000yds, so an ES of 30 with my velocity and bullet creates about 7" of vertical. If I can "hypothetically" hold 1moa or better at 1000yds, thats a possible high end total of 17" of vertical which is still good enough to hit an IPSC target. Obviously I still have wind to deal with but still.

I think someone once said on a podcast they wanted +/- 0.1mil of error or less. So at 1000yds thats +/-3.6"... or 7.2" spread overall, or 30fps ES for my combo.




Theres also the difference in sample size with ES. To have an ES of 33 over 30 shots made me happy lol. For 5 shot or 10 shot samples, I'd like to see lower but would be fine with ES in the teens/twenties. I always review my individual velocities as well. If I see 28/30 shots that are within the 20 ES zone and then 2 that are unusually low then that makes me feel even better. Those two rounds could be one of two things:
1.) My cheap-ass $90 chronograph screwed up (has happened)
2.) My reloading process messed up on 2/30 rounds. I'm ok with that lol, always improving.

Your 7" of vertical dispersion would be within your 1 MOA not in addition to it. I'd be more worried about wind.
 
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Your 7" of vertical dispersion would be within your 1 MOA not in addition to it. I'd be more worried about wind.

I was referring to my ability to hold my reticle consistently on target. I should have worded that differently. I just meant that with only 7" of possible vertical velocity wise it gave me plenty of room to hit the target even with less than perfect shooting fundamentals.

Ya wind will be fun lol... all in the name of learning I suppose
 
Not much I say about it, really. It just works. No bridges, no spilled powder. I haven't tried to run a full case compressed load yet, and really don't intend to.

I guess for the price, it damn well ought to work flawlessly, and it does. I have the Dillon one with the plastic funnel as well, but with the gigantic seating dies we have these days, it won't fit without modification. I think the 419 solution is the only one that doesn't require some fab work.

Ultimately, I'm happy with the whole setup. Chargemaster is the slowest part of the process. I also had to concentrate pretty hard to keep myself on task when I was doing charge weight test loads. Being one behind when dropping charges vs seating the bullet required some extra attention. OAL did vary, but I didn't see more than 0.0025" over the whole lot.

As someone else said, an ES of less than 30 is the goal with under 25 being a nice bonus if it happens.

Range time is at noon. I'll post my results later.

There’s always the hornady micro top...it’s small...
34DEDB46-DF17-4D07-99A5-0D41ECD1D4F0.jpeg
 
Back from the range. Pretty happy with the results. I should have gone bigger in my charge weight steps, but slow is safe. Jump didn't seem to matter much. Realistically, I'm only about a .4 moa shooter, so despite the 0.010 jump load grouping slightly better, that could have been me. I'm hoping to squeeze closer to 2900 before pressure, but so far I'm happy with this.

Note all speed tests were only 3 rounds.
 

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Does anyone have an opinion on what's the best of the best shell plate bearing kit
 
Does anyone have an opinion on what's the best of the best shell plate bearing kit

From what I've read over the past two years or so, the Uniquetek Turbo Bearing kit (the more expensive one). Guys have reported smoother operation and the ability to tighten the shellplate down more without binding, which creates less wobble in the cartridges.

The existing ball bearing and spring can both me modified to work better, as well as the shellplate itself.

Things you can do to possibly help:
1.) Hone the bottom of the shellplate
2.) Cut spring down(small amounts) and/or polish ball bearing (adding some good oil lube helps too)
3.) Turbo Bearing kit
4.) Test and try different amounts of tension on the shellplate. I did this like 20 times to try and get a better method. Consistency is key here. Another note is I work the ram to half way up, hold it in place, get the desired shellplate smoothness/tightness and DON'T MOVE anything, then tighten the set screw. That helped get rid of the situation where I tightened it all down and then once you start working the shellplate it changed slightly
 
^^ What he said. Though what I've found with the turbo bearing kit is when I have the ideal smoothness in rotation, the set screw actually sets into the threads on the retaining bolt rather than the smooth service above the threads. I haven't noticed any ill affects though.
 
^^ What he said. Though what I've found with the turbo bearing kit is when I have the ideal smoothness in rotation, the set screw actually sets into the threads on the retaining bolt rather than the smooth service above the threads. I haven't noticed any ill affects though.
There is a longer bolt offered to address that.
 
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So I'm sitting here looking at my new 550 with parts everywhere while halfway through doing mods to load precision rounds. Instead of putting a powder funnel and and tipping powder in while the ram is at the top could a Redding or rcbs powder thrower be modified to be activated by the press. That way you could open it up to dump all the powder, drop a charge from the auto trickler in while the ram is down then just cycle the ram
 
Being old and stubborn, I am using my 550 a bit differently when loading 6.5CM. I size and prime the case, remove the case to a loading block, drop the powder charge using an RCBS powder throw, weigh the powder charge on a beam scale and trickle if necessary, using a funnel drop the weighed charge into the case, put the case back on the 550, move the case to the bullet seating station, AND put a an unsized case in the sizing and priming station.

Works much quicker than it sounds, and it keeps from having to move powder from the scale to the press. Plus it is easier to verify that the case is properly charged.
 
So I'm sitting here looking at my new 550 with parts everywhere while halfway through doing mods to load precision rounds. Instead of putting a powder funnel and and tipping powder in while the ram is at the top could a Redding or rcbs powder thrower be modified to be activated by the press. That way you could open it up to dump all the powder, drop a charge from the auto trickler in while the ram is down then just cycle the ram

That seems like complicating the whole process.

Do you have a chargemaster or something similar? I run two chargemasters and powder drop directly into a long MTM funnel that sits directly in the toolhead die hole. Its pretty quick.

A very important factor in the way I do it is dwell time. Every case sits a few seconds in the press, so my resizing, mandrel, and bullet seating all hold their final position for a few sec. Plenty have spoken before about how important a little dwell time can be towards consistency.

If you wanna use an automatic powder measure, why don't you just use the Dillon case activated powder measure? IF you're wanting to individually drop powder charges into a powder measure then use it as a traditional powder measure I think thats complicating the crap out of it and just asking for kernals to get stuck and left in one of the various positions they'll be in. Its like taking the longer route to a friends house that has more turns and wondering why you you got there later.

Is there a reason you don't just wanna drop the powder through a funnel at the top of the stroke?

Heres my setup for precision powder. The funnel works on both my .223 and 6.5cm cases and stays in the die hole every time. Once I get to the top of the press stroke, I grab a powder pan, hold the funnel and dump and tap it. Put the pan back and lower the ram.

IMG_4881.jpg


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That seems like complicating the whole process.

Do you have a chargemaster or something similar? I run two chargemasters and powder drop directly into a long MTM funnel that sits directly in the toolhead die hole. Its pretty quick.

A very important factor in the way I do it is dwell time. Every case sits a few seconds in the press, so my resizing, mandrel, and bullet seating all hold their final position for a few sec. Plenty have spoken before about how important a little dwell time can be towards consistency.

If you wanna use an automatic powder measure, why don't you just use the Dillon case activated powder measure? IF you're wanting to individually drop powder charges into a powder measure then use it as a traditional powder measure I think thats complicating the crap out of it and just asking for kernals to get stuck and left in one of the various positions they'll be in. Its like taking the longer route to a friends house that has more turns and wondering why you you got there later.

Is there a reason you don't just wanna drop the powder through a funnel at the top of the stroke?

Heres my setup for precision powder. The funnel works on both my .223 and 6.5cm cases and stays in the die hole every time. Once I get to the top of the press stroke, I grab a powder pan, hold the funnel and dump and tap it. Put the pan back and lower the ram.

View attachment 7425777

View attachment 7425778
I see it as the completed opposite. It doesn't complicate it it makes it simpler. Every process happens on the down stroke instead of some on the up stroke and some on the down stroke. By doing it that way you can't accidently put powder in at the wrong time and spill powder all over the machine. If you figure out how to load sub 1/4 moa ammo at range using the powder drop then I'll think about that. Using something like a Redding powder drop if it was press activated should be a huge advantage from the Dillon unit if every charge is weighed. It doesn't have the possibility of getting powder hung up. I use an auto trickler and if I get the Dillon working well enough I will probably mount a Prometheus on top
 
I see it as the completed opposite. It doesn't complicate it it makes it simpler. Every process happens on the down stroke instead of some on the up stroke and some on the down stroke. By doing it that way you can't accidently put powder in at the wrong time and spill powder all over the machine. If you figure out how to load sub 1/4 moa ammo at range using the powder drop then I'll think about that. Using something like a Redding powder drop if it was press activated should be a huge advantage from the Dillon unit if every charge is weighed. It doesn't have the possibility of getting powder hung up. I use an auto trickler and if I get the Dillon working well enough I will probably mount a Prometheus on top

So I'm correct in saying you want to mount a case activated powder measure, leave the top off, and when the ram is at the bottom, you'll dump weighed powder into the powder measure. That way when you work the press again, the case activates the measure and drops the weighed amount of powder?

Idk... seems like a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. I prime the case, rotate the shellplate, put a bullet on the case, then work the ram. Stop at the top and dump a powder pan. I feel like its not that much to keep track of. Plus you could accidentally put two pans of powder in your powder measure just as easy as dumping powder down a funnel when ram isn't up....both of which I find hard to actually do if you're paying attention.

All I know is guys talk about bridging of powder and kernels getting stuck somewhere in the powder measure, on the baffle, in the mechanism, etc. Seems like its just making a longer path for the powder. I use a transparent funnel.... so the powder goes from pan to case and its one straight line and all visible.

You do you man. The prometheus sounds like a great idea if you got the cash...those things are sick.
 
Sub 1/4moa ammo at range? Rockchucker as fast or faster than properly setup 550?? :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: Some of you guys crack me up.

There are many of us on here that have been loading precision ammo on our 550's for a LONG TIME. This same topic pops up every few months. There are many threads detailing every little question, mod, setup, trick, hardware, etc. that is being posed and argued in this thread. All you have to do is do a little searching....

I've got a 550c, 2 XL650's, Rock Chuck and Co-Ax. NOTHING is faster than the 550c for precision bolt gun ammo... There is ZERO accuracy or SD difference between the properly setup 550c and Co-Ax. The only difference, speed. The 550c wins out every time.

Uniquetek Clamp Kit
Whidden Floating Die toolheads
Area419 Dillon adapter and funnel kit
A&D FX120i AutoThrow and AutoTrickler Bluetooth Setup
Dedicated Case Prep Toolhead
Dedicated Loading Toolhead

1) Tumble your brass when you come back from range in corn cob then run through dedicated case prep toolhead
2) Optional step for those of you that anneal, now is the time to do it
3) Spray all your brass in a plastic bin with 90+% alcohol/Lanolin mix and let dry for 5min
4) Run through dedicated case prep toolhead

Dedicated Case Prep Toolhead
Station 1 - Mighty Armory Dillon Decapping Die
Station 2 - Either FL honed sizing die or FL bushing sizing die
Station 3 - 21st Century TiN mandrel setting final neck tension and ensuring concentricity

4) Tumble your brass however you feel (dry, SS, ultrasonic, etc) But I tumble in corn cob to remove lube. (hint for your new guys that never tested it extensively but, shiny brass from SS and Ultrasonic does nothing for accuracy, it just looks nice and CAN hurt accuracy
5) Run brass in dedicated loading toolhead

Dedicated Loading Toolhead
Station 1 - Mighty Armory Dillon Decapping Die (to make sure flash hole is clear)
Station 2 - Dillon Powder Die with Area419 Dillon Adapter, Drop tube and funnel set to just barely pick up the tube for positive contact
Station 3 - Micrometer seating die of your choice

I have done side by side testing of all of the above scenarios... SS tumble vs corn cob vs ultrasonic.... Co-Ax vs 550c for accuracy and SD, shiny clean brass and primer pockets vs corn cob tumbled and dirty primer pockets.

Im gonna tell you, the target doesnt care down range. no difference...

None of this matters if you dont know how to do proper load development. There is a reason why doing proper load development and selecting the proper charge in the center of your node is... This has also been discussed and explained and proven in many previous threads. If you change lots, you drop a charge a little high or a little low of your center node charge, its not going to matter downrange.

If you dont know how to do proper load development, and are shooting a load not in the node, not in the center of the node, on the edge of a node, any slight deviation in powder charge or powder lot will cause havoc down range. This is why proper load development is SO IMPORTANT.



 
So I'm correct in saying you want to mount a case activated powder measure, leave the top off, and when the ram is at the bottom, you'll dump weighed powder into the powder measure. That way when you work the press again, the case activates the measure and drops the weighed amount of powder?

Idk... seems like a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. I prime the case, rotate the shellplate, put a bullet on the case, then work the ram. Stop at the top and dump a powder pan. I feel like its not that much to keep track of. Plus you could accidentally put two pans of powder in your powder measure just as easy as dumping powder down a funnel when ram isn't up....both of which I find hard to actually do if you're paying attention.

All I know is guys talk about bridging of powder and kernels getting stuck somewhere in the powder measure, on the baffle, in the mechanism, etc. Seems like its just making a longer path for the powder. I use a transparent funnel.... so the powder goes from pan to case and its one straight line and all visible.

You do you man. The prometheus sounds like a great idea if you got the cash...those things are sick.
Yeah that's the process I'm thinking. No barrel and the rump opened right up so there is no where for kernels to hang up. It wouldn't work with the Dillon because it's not linear. Powder could get hung up in it but a Redding would just delay the drop. It does fix a problem that exists. The problem is I'm a retard and if you can stuff it up I can stuff it up. I've done some testing with a dillon 650 and I don't know how many times I dumped powder all over the machine because I lost concentration 3 hours into a reloading session. I can tell you it's really not fun when you have just spent10 minutes cleaning the machine and do it again 5 minutes later
 
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Yeah that's the process I'm thinking. No barrel and the rump opened right up so there is no where for kernels to hang up. It wouldn't work with the Dillon because it's not linear. Powder could get hung up in it but a Redding would just delay the drop. It does fix a problem that exists. The problem is I'm a retard and if you can stuff it up I can stuff it up. I've done some testing with a dillon 650 and I don't know how many times I dumped powder all over the machine because I lost concentration 3 hours into a reloading session. I can tell you it's really not fun when you have just spent10 minutes cleaning the machine and do it again 5 minutes later

Hey in the end you gotta do what works for you. Not judging... but I do love a good debate lol.
 
Hey in the end you gotta do what works for you. Not judging... but I do love a good debate lol.
Nothing wrong with a debate. Not being married to your ideas always helps. I've changed from thinking that a 550 isn't quick enough to setting one up
 
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Yea, dumping powder manually on a 650 just doesn't make sense unless that's the only press you have. I use my 650 for a few things. Making large quantities of pistol ammo, and 5.56 ammo. I also load 300blk and precision AR ammo using 8208. I also use it to mass process very large quantities of brass in 300blk, LC 7.62, LC 5.56, 220TB and 6.5cm all for me small and large frame gassers... I dont process this brass each time I load. Over the winter, I process large bins of many thousands of each caliber. Then, throughout the year, when I load I grab this ready to load brass. I run it with a case feeder and Dillon RT1500 trimmer with the trim FL dies and 21st century mandrels in the case prep dedicated toolheads. Talk about FAST, the Rt1500 automatic trimmer was the best thing I ever bought for my 650!

All of the above is loaded with tuned and modified Dillon powder throws. If you check out the 6BR loads thread in Reloading Depot, I did a drop test showing how consistent my modified dillon powder drop charge weights are from drop to drop. They are not stock....
 
Yea, dumping powder manually on a 650 just doesn't make sense unless that's the only press you have. I use my 650 for a few things. Making large quantities of pistol ammo, and 5.56 ammo. I also load 300blk and precision AR ammo using 8208. I also use it to mass process very large quantities of brass in 300blk, LC 7.62, LC 5.56, 220TB and 6.5cm all for me small and large frame gassers... I dont process this brass each time I load. Over the winter, I process large bins of many thousands of each caliber. Then, throughout the year, when I load I grab this ready to load brass. I run it with a case feeder and Dillon RT1500 trimmer with the trim FL dies and 21st century mandrels in the case prep dedicated toolheads. Talk about FAST, the Rt1500 automatic trimmer was the best thing I ever bought for my 650!

All of the above is loaded with tuned and modified Dillon powder throws. If you check out the 6BR loads thread in Reloading Depot, I did a drop test showing how consistent my modified dillon powder drop charge weights are from drop to drop. They are not stock....

I'll check that out. I want to move to fully automated on one toolhead for my .223 AR loads with 8208. That seems like the way ....

With the RT1500.... does it have the 3 way cutter head...if not are you just not chamferring since its bulk stuff?
 
Sub 1/4moa ammo at range? Rockchucker as fast or faster than properly setup 550?? :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: Some of you guys crack me up.

There are many of us on here that have been loading precision ammo on our 550's for a LONG TIME. This same topic pops up every few months. There are many threads detailing every little question, mod, setup, trick, hardware, etc. that is being posed and argued in this thread. All you have to do is do a little searching....

I've got a 550c, 2 XL650's, Rock Chuck and Co-Ax. NOTHING is faster than the 550c for precision bolt gun ammo... There is ZERO accuracy or SD difference between the properly setup 550c and Co-Ax. The only difference, speed. The 550c wins out every time.

Uniquetek Clamp Kit
Whidden Floating Die toolheads
Area419 Dillon adapter and funnel kit
A&D FX120i AutoThrow and AutoTrickler Bluetooth Setup
Dedicated Case Prep Toolhead
Dedicated Loading Toolhead

1) Tumble your brass when you come back from range in corn cob then run through dedicated case prep toolhead
2) Optional step for those of you that anneal, now is the time to do it
3) Spray all your brass in a plastic bin with 90+% alcohol/Lanolin mix and let dry for 5min
4) Run through dedicated case prep toolhead

Dedicated Case Prep Toolhead
Station 1 - Mighty Armory Dillon Decapping Die
Station 2 - Either FL honed sizing die or FL bushing sizing die
Station 3 - 21st Century TiN mandrel setting final neck tension and ensuring concentricity

4) Tumble your brass however you feel (dry, SS, ultrasonic, etc) But I tumble in corn cob to remove lube. (hint for your new guys that never tested it extensively but, shiny brass from SS and Ultrasonic does nothing for accuracy, it just looks nice and CAN hurt accuracy
5) Run brass in dedicated loading toolhead

Dedicated Loading Toolhead
Station 1 - Mighty Armory Dillon Decapping Die (to make sure flash hole is clear)
Station 2 - Dillon Powder Die with Area419 Dillon Adapter, Drop tube and funnel set to just barely pick up the tube for positive contact
Station 3 - Micrometer seating die of your choice

I have done side by side testing of all of the above scenarios... SS tumble vs corn cob vs ultrasonic.... Co-Ax vs 550c for accuracy and SD, shiny clean brass and primer pockets vs corn cob tumbled and dirty primer pockets.

Im gonna tell you, the target doesnt care down range. no difference...

None of this matters if you dont know how to do proper load development. There is a reason why doing proper load development and selecting the proper charge in the center of your node is... This has also been discussed and explained and proven in many previous threads. If you change lots, you drop a charge a little high or a little low of your center node charge, its not going to matter downrange.

If you dont know how to do proper load development, and are shooting a load not in the node, not in the center of the node, on the edge of a node, any slight deviation in powder charge or powder lot will cause havoc down range. This is why proper load development is SO IMPORTANT.




Very much, this. My setup is very close, except my full length size die is on my loading head, and I drilled an extra hole to move my seating die to station 4, flash holes are cleared manually. The only screw up so far was dumping 2 charges into the same case when working up a ladder load. Dumped powder EVERYWHERE and had to start over.

The design of the shell plate and ram just lend itself so well to maintaining a consistent oal, it's hard to not use the 550, especially when you aready own it.
 
Somewhere there is a thread of a guy doing something like this on a 1050, with full-on case feeder, bullet feeder, etc. He has an RCBS Uniflow set up with sort of a half hopper, so he can take the weighed charge from his powder scale (had some home-brew set up half-way between an AutoThrower and a Prometheus) and toss it in the UniFlow, allowing him to cycle the press without pausing for the scale. That was his version... not sure I see the need, personally, but it was pretty dang cool.
 
I'll check that out. I want to move to fully automated on one toolhead for my .223 AR loads with 8208. That seems like the way ....

With the RT1500.... does it have the 3 way cutter head...if not are you just not chamferring since its bulk stuff?

No the RT1500 is strictly a trimmer... I chamfer and debur on a Case prep center after tumbling.


My XL650 Dillon powder throws are polished to a mirror finish in the hopper, powder slide, and the powder funnels themselves that go in the powder die. I have the baffle and micrometer powder bar.
 
Somewhere there is a thread of a guy doing something like this on a 1050, with full-on case feeder, bullet feeder, etc. He has an RCBS Uniflow set up with sort of a half hopper, so he can take the weighed charge from his powder scale (had some home-brew set up half-way between an AutoThrower and a Prometheus) and toss it in the UniFlow, allowing him to cycle the press without pausing for the scale. That was his version... not sure I see the need, personally, but it was pretty dang cool.

I saw that home brew contraption.. Its definitely wasn't problem free and a work in progress...
 
Without searching for the old thread, here are some Dillon powder thrower/die modifications I did.

Powder Funnel before and after. All of my 550c and 650 funnels are polished like this. Dillon drills these, so if you look down yours, you will see all the rough, spiral tooling marks... Mirror finish on all of mine now.








Before and after hopper



Installing the micrometer powder adjustment. Both these and the internal sliding channel have been polished






Powder baffle

 
And here is how easy and fast I fully process brass on my XL650. They are deprimmed, shoulder bumped back, neck squeezed down, trimmed to length and mandrel to set final neck tension and concentricity.


 
There’s always the hornady micro top...it’s small... View attachment 7423196
I’ve been using a couple of these Hornady micro’s for a while, I only wish the hash marks on the corresponding micro for the powder drop actually represented some form of weight measurement (I’ve been running the Hornady AP). Does Dillion or any other manufacturer have one that does?
 
I’ve been using a couple of these Hornady micro’s for a while, I only wish the hash marks on the corresponding micro for the powder drop actually represented some form of weight measurement (I’ve been running the Hornady AP). Does Dillion or any other manufacturer have one that does?


Obviously no powder bar can be exact with their measurements because different powders are different sizes/volumes... but its prolly as close as you'll get. I know a few guys on here that use them and have said they like it.
 
I’ve been using a couple of these Hornady micro’s for a while, I only wish the hash marks on the corresponding micro for the powder drop actually represented some form of weight measurement (I’ve been running the Hornady AP). Does Dillion or any other manufacturer have one that does?

Here you go... I use them on ALL of my Dillon powder dispensers..

 

Obviously no powder bar can be exact with their measurements because different powders are different sizes/volumes... but its prolly as close as you'll get. I know a few guys on here that use them and have said they like it.


Haha posted at the same time.