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Garand gas cylinder question.

mackdrvr

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 23, 2008
1,071
21
NY....Hudson Valley
Can you guys get your op rods out with out removing the gas cylinder? All the books out there say remove the gas cylinder, and then remove the rod. Talk has it that removing the gas cylinder to much will loosen up the barrel splines over time losing accuracy. By the way I cant get my op rod out.....the end snags in the gas cylinder when you pop the handle out of the receiver, and pull it to the rear to remove it. So I remove it the way Mr. Duffs book says. Maybe it is bent, I dont know, but I tried it a couple times, and it wont clear the gas cylinder. Sorry if this is a bullshit noob question, but I'm just concerned about the barrel splines. Thanks in advance.
 
Re: Garand gas cylinder question.

Yes it can be removed with the GC in place. You will have to push the Op Rod Catch down against the barrel and wiggle the Op Rod a little to get over the Catch. Once the Op Rod is Fully rear ward it will come free. It is easier to remove all the reciever lower parts but it sounds like you just want to remove the Op Rod so thats the short cut. Donald
 
Re: Garand gas cylinder question.

Don't worry about the splines - they can be tightened up with with a punch and a few light blows of a hammer. The threads are another issue, but unless you take it apart daily for a few years you probably won't wear them out.
 
Re: Garand gas cylinder question.

I find it's easiest to remove the oprod catch/bullet guide/spring & follower arm first. Once those are out the oprod can easily be removed with a minimum of wiggling.

A good tight fitting gas cylinder is one of the keys to accuracy in the M1. It's OK to remove it if necessary, but be cautious when reassembling. Some tapping with a mallet and a block of wood may be necessary if the fit is tight. Don't be heavy-handed!

As mentioned, peening can breathe new life into splines that are worn.

On the two M1 rifles that I shoot regularly, I never remove the gas cylinder, lock or plug. I simply clean from the rear of the cylinder using a .45 bore brush wrapped with a solvent soaked patch, followed by a dry patch.