Gunsmithing Glass bedding

mzvarner

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 7, 2013
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Spokane, WA
I like to consider myself a tinkerer and I am considering glass bedding my Rem 700 into a B&C medalist. I have done some research about the topic but get mixed reviews. So my question is how involved is this? Is this an easily done job at home? Will the glass bedding stay attached to the aluminum block in the stock or it just dosnt stick to anything with a release agent on it? I just bed the action and recoil lug, but not the barrel channel?

Thanks, and I am sure this has been discussed before but I had a hard time finding the previous threads.
 
It's really not that hard at all. There used to be a few good walk-throughs with pictures on here, but it seems that they have all since been deleted. If you check the blog in my signature I have the process I use documented with pictures.
 
So it seems like a lot of what I am reading requires touch up with a mill. If I don't have access to a mill what are my alternatives? Can I use a Dremel tool or maybe a drill press?

Lots of people use dremels to clean up after the bedding compound has hardened. If you end up using a dremel, just go slow and try to keep straight lines. Most of the cleanup is just for looks, but everyone loves the satisfaction of popping apart a completed build and having nice straight lines in the bedding.

I wouldn't recommend using your drill press (regardless of size) to mill. The spindles aren't designed for lateral forces like milling machines are.
 

Looks a pretty damn expert to me. Those are the best ones on all of YouTube. The old thread that William roscoe did was awesome but that one got screwed up when the pictures expired.
 
So it seems like a lot of what I am reading requires touch up with a mill. If I don't have access to a mill what are my alternatives? Can I use a Dremel tool or maybe a drill press?

Okay. no mill, no problem. I didn't always have a mill, an still got results that looked as if i did. The dremel is dificult to free hand control. I use flat and rat tail files. You can clamp the stock flat on a table. This will let you file in a flat to table motion. Use the finshed areas of the inletted stock for a guild trying not to touch them much. Go really slow, and it will turn out great. The top edges can be made parellel with a flat piece of metal with sand paper wrapped around it. It will leave two uniform sides on the stock that look great. Any sharp edges can be lightly feathered by hand with fine grit sand paper.

Back to the dremel. It will work in removing the extra material, but unless you are a true sculpter, it will look like your dog chewed it up. I can't do it. The mill just makes it happen really fast if you need production speeds for a business.