- Thread starter Soprano7777
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SOLD - Aero M5 308 -Sold-
Aero M5 16” rainier arms ultra match barrel Armaspec silent buffer system Aero adjustable gas block Rifle gas system Geissele trigger Magpul stock PSA BCG (toolcraft) and ambi CH Comes with 1 pmag, brake is not included. I have 3 KAC mags I can add if someone wants, Sold shipped to your ffl.
www.snipershide.com I'd find out how many rounds through the barrel. If it's not excessive, this might be a great option. Nothing wrong with Aero M5 lowers. Don't have any personal experience with Rainer Arms Ultra Match barrels, but anecdotally I've heard they are real shooters. Also, pretty well spec'd. out in general. Toolcraft BCG are GTG. Geissele triggers are excellent. Nice Magpul stock and an adjustable gas block is always nice.SOLD - Aero M5 308 -Sold-
Aero M5 16” rainier arms ultra match barrel Armaspec silent buffer system Aero adjustable gas block Rifle gas system Geissele trigger Magpul stock PSA BCG (toolcraft) and ambi CH Comes with 1 pmag, brake is not included. I have 3 KAC mags I can add if someone wants, Sold shipped to your ffl.
And I'm going to double down on my earlier recommendation. If your goal is to get a gun with outstanding accuracy, you are not going to do better than a Compass Lake Engineering upper. Period. Buy an Aeroprecision M5 stripped lower add a LaRue or Geissele trigger, and the stock of your choice. All in you'll be under $2000. And you don't have to go on Gunbroker and pay scalper prices for an LMT upper (or lower). I believe the CLE uppers are in stock, and at worse you may have to wait 4-6 weeks to get it. Aeroprecision stripped lowers are in stock. And with a little patience and some luck you might be able to find a blemished one or one on sale and save even more. Honestly the only reason not to go this route, is if this will be an "end of the world as we know it" gun that will continue working after you drag it through the mud, throw it in the river etc. and you want a barrel that will last for 10,000+ rounds, in which case the tight tolerances and stainless barrel of the CLE are probably not the best choices.
Only reason to go with LMT (and I actually really like LMT) is if you want or need a full ambidextrous lower, and you want the ability to switch out barrels in about 30 seconds. All of those things are great features, but you're going to pay a premium to get them (especially right now), and while you will also get an accurate rife, it will not be on the same level as Compass Lake.
Change out this safety to ambi and add a Phase V AR10 bolt release and voila, full ambi. Not to mention the seller is GTG so there’s that.
Also a possibility in the PX.
www.snipershide.com
SOLD - Ultralight AR-10: 2A Arms, Proof Barrel, Titanium Parts, Triggertech
I'm selling what I think is the lightest AR-10 that can be built. This thing is decked out with the best parts throughout. The gun has 250 rounds on it, the titanium BCG only has 50 rounds on it. *The complete gun is under 6.5 pounds without glass* $2,550 shipped without glass $3,550 shipped...
www.snipershide.com Might be helpful if OP gave us some info. about his intended uses for this rifle. I have two AR10's and have them set up as long range shooters. So longer barrels, fairly heavy scopes with at least 16x on the upper end, and with a tripod on the front. Weight is really the last thing I'd be concerned about. But since I do shoot mine out to at least 600 yards, accuracy is pretty important.
Personally (and I think this really is a personal bias) light weight AR10's don't make a lot of sense. Even the light ones can be pretty heavy. And if I want a light weight gun, I'm really going to go with a short barreled AR15, put a red dot on it, shoot it mostly offhand and at targets 150 yards and in. If I need something in a bigger caliber for hunting or added stopping power I can go 300 BO, 6.5 Grendel or even a .458 Socom, stay with an AR15 platform and in two of these calibers use the same magazines as 5.56.
.308 and 6.5CM are, to me, long range calibers, and that means I'm shooting prone or off a bench and not carrying my rifle around all that much. I suppose if your intended use is something like hunting Elk in Colorado where you will be hiking in the back country up over 9000 feet, a light weight AR10 might have some utility, but that's a pretty specialized use, and, frankly, I think there are better alternatives.
Personally (and I think this really is a personal bias) light weight AR10's don't make a lot of sense. Even the light ones can be pretty heavy. And if I want a light weight gun, I'm really going to go with a short barreled AR15, put a red dot on it, shoot it mostly offhand and at targets 150 yards and in. If I need something in a bigger caliber for hunting or added stopping power I can go 300 BO, 6.5 Grendel or even a .458 Socom, stay with an AR15 platform and in two of these calibers use the same magazines as 5.56.
.308 and 6.5CM are, to me, long range calibers, and that means I'm shooting prone or off a bench and not carrying my rifle around all that much. I suppose if your intended use is something like hunting Elk in Colorado where you will be hiking in the back country up over 9000 feet, a light weight AR10 might have some utility, but that's a pretty specialized use, and, frankly, I think there are better alternatives.
That’s mine, less than 80 rounds. I’ve only ran m118 on it and it’s always printed .5-.75” groups
Looking to shoot long distance. Just about everything your doing. Had a Tikka tac3 I sold to pay some medical bills. A friend told me to look into AR 10 cause I like semi automatics.
With a $3000 budget...I'd build a custom ALL DAY over any factory large frame gasser.
I've built 50+ and if you know what parts to use and how to tune it you will have a tack driver..
Keystone or Craddock Bartlein LR308 pattern barrel in either 308 or 6.5cm...I use JP QPQ barrel extensions I send to my Smith for all my custom LR308 barrels...
RCA High Pressure bolt and bcg with adjustable gas key... JP SCS with their spring pack and Tungsten weights for full tuning... MEGA ambi billet receiver set...Geissele NM or SDE trigger...SLR handguard, PRS stock, BAD ambi safety...tack driver that runs smooth as hell..
MEGA billet LR308 set
www.rainierarms.com
I'd buy this set if building one right now. I'm pretty sure these are MEGA/ZEV made but not 100% on that.
I've built 50+ and if you know what parts to use and how to tune it you will have a tack driver..
Keystone or Craddock Bartlein LR308 pattern barrel in either 308 or 6.5cm...I use JP QPQ barrel extensions I send to my Smith for all my custom LR308 barrels...
RCA High Pressure bolt and bcg with adjustable gas key... JP SCS with their spring pack and Tungsten weights for full tuning... MEGA ambi billet receiver set...Geissele NM or SDE trigger...SLR handguard, PRS stock, BAD ambi safety...tack driver that runs smooth as hell..
MEGA billet LR308 set
Mega Arms | Maten Billet Ambi Receiver Set | AR10 Sets
Shop maten billet ambi receiver set for AR10. The set has extremely tight tolerances and high quality standards, Mega Arms.
www.rainierarms.com I'd buy this set if building one right now. I'm pretty sure these are MEGA/ZEV made but not 100% on that.
JSE Surplus AR10 Billet Upper/Lower Receiver Set- Anodized
Please view details for more information.
www.jsesurplus.com
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Soprano - Own a Tikka CTR that I dropped into an aftermarket chassis. Very similar to your TAC3. Great rifle.
I've always found semi-autos more difficult to shoot consistently than bolt action rifles, so don't get frustrated if your groups open up, particularly at first. And an AR10 is a little more challenging than an AR15 because of the recoil. 6.5 CM will be easier to adapt to because it has less recoil. Also, less affected by the wind and commercial ammo is very good.
Might make sense for you and Jmccracken to get in contact with one another. As I said before rifle looks to be pretty well spec'd., and a very fair price, although it is .308. But the good news is that .308 will be cheaper and 80 rounds on that barrel is nothing. And with your finances being tight you can save a bunch of money versus buying new.
I've always found semi-autos more difficult to shoot consistently than bolt action rifles, so don't get frustrated if your groups open up, particularly at first. And an AR10 is a little more challenging than an AR15 because of the recoil. 6.5 CM will be easier to adapt to because it has less recoil. Also, less affected by the wind and commercial ammo is very good.
Might make sense for you and Jmccracken to get in contact with one another. As I said before rifle looks to be pretty well spec'd., and a very fair price, although it is .308. But the good news is that .308 will be cheaper and 80 rounds on that barrel is nothing. And with your finances being tight you can save a bunch of money versus buying new.
I feel like I’ve provided local resources in the PX. Hopefully he, she, them, it can choose accordingly. Hell, if you can’t follow Padom’s advice just quit now 
It’s all out there.
It’s all out there.
Thank everyone for all the info. As for building my own. Since Nov. been living in hospital rehab centers 300 miles from home. . No place to build or store things. Have no idea how long my wife will be here. Wouldn’t wish this on my worse Enemy. Looking at 6.5 creedmoor cause I sold my rifles and still have a lot of. Ammo. Was going to wait but with what’s going g on in Congress want to pick up something before they start to ban things. So that’s where things are at right now. From what I see available out there would like thoughts on Wilson Combat super sniper. Still looking for the other brands I mention except DD. Thank everyone again so much. Any any more info would still be appreciated
I guess Im confused.... If you cant store the parts for a rifle....how are you going to store the rifle itself?? They are the same size......You could order the parts and barrel from Keystone or Craddock or the likes... send them all the parts minus the barrel and have them assemble it with the barrel you purchase from them.... Lots of options out there and you will get a much nicer, more accurate rifle for your dollar.. Just saying..
Not to hijack this thread, but I do have a question for padom. My general approach if I want to put together a precision AR10 or AR15 is to buy the upper and put together the lower myself. Recently did this with an AR15. Bought a blemished Aeroprecision stripped lower and added the lower parts I like - LaRue trigger, Magpul PRS stock, enhanced buffer spring and I think an H1 buffer. Then bought a Compass Lake Engineering upper with a Krieger barrel. Complete upper was about $1,000 and the cost of putting together the lower was probably about $500 (although I haven't actually sat down and added everything up). I've only put about 150 rounds through it so far, so I can't speak to long term durability, but I am getting outstanding accuracy with commercial match ammo.
Now seriously thinking of doing basically the same thing to put together a precision AR10 rig. Depending on whether I go 6.5CM or .308 I'm looking at between $1400 and $1600 for an upper from CLE. Can buy a blemished AR10 stripped receiver for $150 from Aeroprecision. Depending on how I build out the lower I'm probably looking at about $2100-2200 for a complete rifle.
What would be the advantage of spending another $8-900, including paying an additional $100 for a stripped lower, buying all the parts for the upper individually and hoping they work together and trying to find a competent smith who I trust to put everything together? I'm really not challenging your advice, just trying to understand what I'm potentially missing with my approach which has generally been to put most of my money into a top quality upper and then maybe get a few dollars back when I put together the lower.
Now seriously thinking of doing basically the same thing to put together a precision AR10 rig. Depending on whether I go 6.5CM or .308 I'm looking at between $1400 and $1600 for an upper from CLE. Can buy a blemished AR10 stripped receiver for $150 from Aeroprecision. Depending on how I build out the lower I'm probably looking at about $2100-2200 for a complete rifle.
What would be the advantage of spending another $8-900, including paying an additional $100 for a stripped lower, buying all the parts for the upper individually and hoping they work together and trying to find a competent smith who I trust to put everything together? I'm really not challenging your advice, just trying to understand what I'm potentially missing with my approach which has generally been to put most of my money into a top quality upper and then maybe get a few dollars back when I put together the lower.
generally, due to the lack of a solid AR-308 standard, conventional wisdom is that your upper and lower receivers should be the same brand. So if you're going with an Aero M5 AR-308 lower receiver, whatever upper receiver you have built out, it should be built on an Aero M5 upper receiver. If you're going with somebody else's lower, same logic applies.
between the different brands of AR-308 receivers, there is some variation on the curvature radius at the back end of the upper receiver, where it mates with the buffer tube upright on the lower receiver. Sometimes there's also varying interpretations of the height of the receiver bore above the bottom flat of the upper receiver.
so you definitely want the same-same brands on upper, lower receivers when it comes to the AR Large Frames. In the AR-15 world, the standard is much more rigorous, so you don't have this to worry about.
I stopped using Aero receivers a few years ago after I got 3 out of spec M5 308 lowers that mags would fall right out of, 6 months of run around from Aero, to an end result of a manager giving me my money back and told me the CS depth was a mess they didn't know where my items I sent back were... I never bought another Aero product..
Matched receiver sets for sure...I'm a Mega guy but would use JSE billet, SLR and a few others..
The advantage is a higher quality rifle with all the exact parts you want...and I don't ever HOPE all the parts fit together, I know exactly what parts work together and I gave you a recipe for success above...
I prefer SLR handguards on my large frame gassers...I prefer honed, polished and QPQ coated JP barrel extensions on all my large frame gasser barrels...why? Because when you built and shot enough of them...you know how bad the others beat the shit out of your brass....gouges out od the shoulders from the super sharp backside of the lugs....grooves down the case body... just little things I like to do.
And your posting on here for advice. I just gave you 2 shops that make tack driver AR barrels (Krieger if you want a Krieger...I'm a Bartlein guy)...and both have been doing it a long time.
Throwing a blem junk lower on your build is the part I'm not understanding....spend the money on a matched receiver set...large frame gassers aren't plug and play like AR15...
I never said you needed to spend $3000 so I don't know why you asked me what $800-$909 more gets you. OP said his budget was $3000 and I said I'd build with that budget.
Just looking retail...not hunting for best price or using any coupon codes a complete assembled custom billet upper with Top tier parts comes to $1534 and that's fully assembled from Craddock (he charges $75 to assemble your upper when you buy a barrel if you send in all your parts)
Bartlein 22" Barrel +2 gas, headpacs to your bolt and assemble upper $780
RCA blem 308 HP+ bcg $190
(These are little known gems and a steal of the century. Full warranty, zero manufacturing issues....messed up laser engraving. Or that's what they say...last 4 I received were brand new in the box perfect logos....says backordered...I ordered and received in less than a week..
rubbercityarmory.com
JSE Billet upper receiver $110 ( if you buy matched set that's what the upper prices out at)
Geissele SCH 308 charging handle $140
Slr mlok ION handguard $314
Total Assembled upper with all the parts I want $1534
Lower Complete Build out
JSE billet lower $300
LaRue MBT-2S $99
JP SCS Heavy w/spring pack $209
Magpul prs3 $254
LPK $50
BAD Ambi Safety $35
Ergo tactical Deluxe $33
Rifle buffer tube $22
$1002
Without entering any coupon codes or hunting any sales
$2536 all in
Just looking retail...not hunting for best price or using any coupon codes a complete assembled custom billet upper with Top tier parts comes to $1534 and that's fully assembled from Craddock (he charges $75 to assemble your upper when you buy a barrel if you send in all your parts)
Bartlein 22" Barrel +2 gas, headpacs to your bolt and assemble upper $780
RCA blem 308 HP+ bcg $190
(These are little known gems and a steal of the century. Full warranty, zero manufacturing issues....messed up laser engraving. Or that's what they say...last 4 I received were brand new in the box perfect logos....says backordered...I ordered and received in less than a week..
*BLEM* Standard Mass AR-10 .308 Win+ Multi HP Calibers DPMS complete W/ Assist - Welcome to Rubber City Armory
This is a COSMETIC BLEMISHED complete DPMS style BCG with Blacknitride+ finish - PLEASE NOTE - ITEM MAY HAVE IMPERFECT LASER ENGRAVING, OR COSMETIC IMPERFECTIONS BUT IS OPERATIONALLY CORRECT. ALL RCA WARRANTIES STILL APPLY. PLEASE NOTATE IN THE ORDER NOTES IF YOU WISH YOUR CARRIER TO BE...
rubbercityarmory.com JSE Billet upper receiver $110 ( if you buy matched set that's what the upper prices out at)
Geissele SCH 308 charging handle $140
Slr mlok ION handguard $314
Total Assembled upper with all the parts I want $1534
Lower Complete Build out
JSE billet lower $300
LaRue MBT-2S $99
JP SCS Heavy w/spring pack $209
Magpul prs3 $254
LPK $50
BAD Ambi Safety $35
Ergo tactical Deluxe $33
Rifle buffer tube $22
$1002
Without entering any coupon codes or hunting any sales
$2536 all in
Last edited:
With a $3000 budget...I'd build a custom ALL DAY over any factory large frame gasser.
I've built 50+ and if you know what parts to use and how to tune it you will have a tack driver..
Keystone or Craddock Bartlein LR308 pattern barrel in either 308 or 6.5cm...I use JP QPQ barrel extensions I send to my Smith for all my custom LR308 barrels...
RCA High Pressure bolt and bcg with adjustable gas key... JP SCS with their spring pack and Tungsten weights for full tuning... MEGA ambi billet receiver set...Geissele NM or SDE trigger...SLR handguard, PRS stock, BAD ambi safety...tack driver that runs smooth as hell..
MEGA billet LR308 set
Mega Arms | Maten Billet Ambi Receiver Set | AR10 Sets
Shop maten billet ambi receiver set for AR10. The set has extremely tight tolerances and high quality standards, Mega Arms.
I'd buy this set if building one right now. I'm pretty sure these are MEGA/ZEV made but not 100% on that.
JSE Surplus AR10 Billet Upper/Lower Receiver Set- Anodized
Please view details for more information.www.jsesurplus.com
I've built a couple Large frame AR's and I think dollar for dollar, they were probably some of the most consistent shooters out there, with that being said, i've sort of found myself being more of a factory gun shooters as I think large frame market is large enough to warrant not needing to go custom for most applications, especially in recommending options to new shooters.
While i don't think that assembling a large frame AR is a overly complicated task, its hard to account for stuff where somebody wants to use an ultra premium barrel and pair it with the cheapest receiver set on the market or matching a JP bolt with toolcraft carrier from PSA.
Would I do another custom gun, sure, but I think I would explore just getting Krieger, Barlein, or Proof CF barrel for my MWS and call it a day.
I don't think there are any bad choices as long as one knows what they are getting into.
Thanks, comments very helpful. I do agree AR10's are a different animal than AR15's in their lack of standardization. I asked the question because I've never gone the route of full customization and genuinely didn't know what added value I would be getting by doing so.
Seems like there really are a couple of ways to go, particularly if you've got a decent budget. Just buying a KAC or LMT (if you can find them) will get you a gun where you know all the parts will work together and some added features that will enhance reliability/durability and give you some added flexibility (like LMT's ability to swap out barrels). If those things are what's most important to you, it's probably the best option.
Buying a complete upper from someone like Compass Lake Engineering or White Oak Armament and then building out your lower will insure you get a gun with outstanding accuracy and gives you the opportunity to spec out the lower the way you want. (And yeah, whether you go Krieger, Bartlien, Douglas, Criterion, etc. can be a matter of personal preference/past experience). But you do have to know enough to pick the parts you put in your lower and need to be sure upper and lower fit. And you will end up with a rifle that's more like a sports car as opposed to an SUV. That means terrific accuracy but maybe a barrel life of 4000 rounds vs. 10,000 because you've got a stainless barrel, a tighter chamber that may not like steel cased ammo, etc.
And going the full custom route does give you complete control but you really have to know what you're doing when buying parts (or have someone help you with your selection).
Seems like there really are a couple of ways to go, particularly if you've got a decent budget. Just buying a KAC or LMT (if you can find them) will get you a gun where you know all the parts will work together and some added features that will enhance reliability/durability and give you some added flexibility (like LMT's ability to swap out barrels). If those things are what's most important to you, it's probably the best option.
Buying a complete upper from someone like Compass Lake Engineering or White Oak Armament and then building out your lower will insure you get a gun with outstanding accuracy and gives you the opportunity to spec out the lower the way you want. (And yeah, whether you go Krieger, Bartlien, Douglas, Criterion, etc. can be a matter of personal preference/past experience). But you do have to know enough to pick the parts you put in your lower and need to be sure upper and lower fit. And you will end up with a rifle that's more like a sports car as opposed to an SUV. That means terrific accuracy but maybe a barrel life of 4000 rounds vs. 10,000 because you've got a stainless barrel, a tighter chamber that may not like steel cased ammo, etc.
And going the full custom route does give you complete control but you really have to know what you're doing when buying parts (or have someone help you with your selection).
He might throw in a 6.5 CM Lilja barrel.
www.snipershide.com
SOLD - LWRC REPR MK1 7.62X51 Price reduced
Looking to sell a lightly used LWRC MK1 R.E.P.R. 7.62x51. Rifle has under 100 rounds through it. Side charging upper, Barrel is 18" including flash hider. It will come with a 20rd, and a 10rd Magpul Magazine as well as the gas adjustment tool. Slight wear/handling marks. See pictures for wear...
www.snipershide.com Time to cough up an extra $600 and get the beast you really want.
www.snipershide.com
Firearms - SOLD JP Enterprises LRP-07 6.5 Creedmoor NIB Updated Price
SOLD JP LRP-07 6.5 Creedmoor. I am the second owner of this rifle and was told it is new and never fired. It looks new and I never got around to shooting it either. I have a few other JP LRP-07's and this one was too pretty to take in the field and coyote or hog hunt so it sat in the safe. I'm...
www.snipershide.com Post some pictures
Here. This meets the budget requirement. You have to create a profile to communicate to set up a meet/shipping/ deal.
Again, not mine.
www.theoutdoorstrader.com
Again, not mine.
Item Relisted! FS/FT GA Precision GAP-10 G2 **$2750**
**RIFLE, CASE and 1 MAG $2750** I have a GA Precision GAP-10 G2 available for sale or trade. I just prefer to shoot 6.5cm out of my Tac 1 and have decided to part with this awesome rifle. For most, this gun needs no explanation or detailing. Yes, it shoots just as amazingly as guys say it does...
www.theoutdoorstrader.com ....
Bartlein 22" Barrel +2 gas, headpacs to your bolt and assemble upper $780
RCA blem 308 HP+ bcg $190
(These are little known gems and a steal of the century. Full warranty, zero manufacturing issues....messed up laser engraving. Or that's what they say...last 4 I received were brand new in the box perfect logos....says backordered...I ordered and received in less than a week..
*BLEM* Standard Mass AR-10 .308 Win+ Multi HP Calibers DPMS complete W/ Assist - Welcome to Rubber City Armory
This is a COSMETIC BLEMISHED complete DPMS style BCG with Blacknitride+ finish - PLEASE NOTE - ITEM MAY HAVE IMPERFECT LASER ENGRAVING, OR COSMETIC IMPERFECTIONS BUT IS OPERATIONALLY CORRECT. ALL RCA WARRANTIES STILL APPLY. PLEASE NOTATE IN THE ORDER NOTES IF YOU WISH YOUR CARRIER TO BE...
JSE Billet upper receiver $110 ( if you buy matched set that's what the upper prices out at)
Geissele SCH 308 charging handle $140
Slr mlok ION handguard $314
Total Assembled upper with all the parts I want $1534
Lower Complete Build out
JSE billet lower $300
LaRue MBT-2S $99
JP SCS Heavy w/spring pack $209
Magpul prs3 $254
LPK $50
BAD Ambi Safety $35
Ergo tactical Deluxe $33
Rifle buffer tube $22
....
What's your recco to start with the JP SCS (spring/weights) setup for a full mass bolt carrier in a setup as above?
Thanks!
Exactly as it comes is where you should start...if your getting heavy swipes on the brass and it's beat up start adding 1 weight at a time and up your spring yo heavier springs 1 at a time via the spring pack...rinse and repeat till your brass isn't beat to shit....I tune my gas on the stock SCS config then mess with weights and springs...once your brass looks good you can fine tune your gas again if need be
Standard for full mass and tuning from there....heavy for LMOS and tuning from there
I have a JP lrp-07 in .308win and I would not sell it or trade it for anything, well almost anything. You can't go wrong with JP, highest Quality, Super Accurate, and 100% Reliable plus their Customer Service is Second to None !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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