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Is bedding the AR barrel a myth? What's the best way?

Looking on triggershims but cannot find the assortment pack you bought, can you post a link? Thanks
Their site is a bit of a mess but nice people to deal with.

ETA:
use the drop down and select the DIY combo then note what sizes you want
 
When I did mine I had the second recoil lug dovetailed into the barrel after I had bedded the barrel into the forestock. I smoked the barrel down on to the wood then double tapped it from the front of where the second recoil lug was marked to go forward to the muzzle and smoked that down to give me the light float then cut in for the recoil lug and glass bedded the lug with the all faces taped except for the rear face. I always bed on wood and the smoker is the best accessory for doing that.
 
When I did mine I had the second recoil lug dovetailed into the barrel after I had bedded the barrel into the forestock. I smoked the barrel down on to the wood then double tapped it from the front of where the second recoil lug was marked to go forward to the muzzle and smoked that down to give me the light float then cut in for the recoil lug and glass bedded the lug with the all faces taped except for the rear face. I always bed on wood and the smoker is the best accessory for doing that.
Uhhh, what?
 
Where does the 'normal' upper flex?
AR-Barrel-Support.jpg
 
I true em and glue em,... did enough testing in the beginning before and after, there was always improvement, sometimes a farly drastic improvement...I just do it for all..also centering the bolt carrier can be beneficial.
Ok talk to me about centering the bolt carrier. I'm rebuilding my Grendel which is not giving impressive groups, and I'm planning on loctiting it, but I'm curious about how you go about centering a bolt?
 
Ok talk to me about centering the bolt carrier. I'm rebuilding my Grendel which is not giving impressive groups, and I'm planning on loctiting it, but I'm curious about how you go about centering a bolt?
It's centering the bolt carrier, along with a good to top quality barrel, plus all the other procedures one can have a very accurate AR style rifle.
This takes machine tools and precision measuring equipment...not for the average builder.
For those curious, there are videos from AR Armors to help one with understanding the steps, in accurasizing...it's where I learned, buying books, and videos, plus being a machinist with a home machine shop. An advantage most do not have...but one can learn.
If you have access machine tools, and do fixturing, or have a machinist friend show you. It looks something like this.
 

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About 15 years ago, I ran into a gunsmith at a local shooting range who had squared and trued-up everything he could think of for a Grendel build.

He squared the barrel extension, the receiver/extension/barrel nut faces and bearing surfaces, trued-up/cut the threads himself, and de-edged/blended/polished his feed ramps.

He was shooting .5” groups out of the gate with it. I think he had a 22” barrel of one of the pedigreed barrel shops, maybe a Shilen.

He’s where I got the idea for the barrel extension work I do for reliability/feeding/babying brass.

As to the question about bolt carriers, most people don’t realize the bolt carrier actually rides high inside the raceway due to cartridge stack upward pressure from the magazine spring. The rails-in-contact are the top rails on the carrier, while the bottom rails kinda bounce off the inner lower raceway track. The initial contact area for the bottom of the carrier is the center spine at 6 o’clock that rides on top of the cartridge in pre-presentation.

Once the carrier clears the cartridge stack, the bottom rails are free to fall into-position with gravity, then they lift above again once the bottom spine rides over the next cartridge in the magazine and the stack lifts the carrier back up into tension against the inner top of the raceway.

What 45-90 is doing with the 4 hemisphere bolts on the carrier tail is controlling some of that banging around that happens normally with AR-15s, centering the carrier tail throughout its travel inside the RET, if I’m interpreting his placement of those bolts correctly ( I might be totally off my rocker as well.)
 
If reducing bolt rock or improving alignment is a goal, you can buy a carrier with a larger tail.

That's one of the reasons I run Sharps carriers. Sharps small frame carriers are +.030 on the tail. Have not confirmed if same applies to the large frame carriers.

1715978226985.jpeg

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1715978267783.jpeg
 
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About 15 years ago, I ran into a gunsmith at a local shooting range who had squared and trued-up everything he could think of for a Grendel build.

He squared the barrel extension, the receiver/extension/barrel nut faces and bearing surfaces, trued-up/cut the threads himself, and de-edged/blended/polished his feed ramps.

He was shooting .5” groups out of the gate with it. I think he had a 22” barrel of one of the pedigreed barrel shops, maybe a Shilen.

He’s where I got the idea for the barrel extension work I do for reliability/feeding/babying brass.

As to the question about bolt carriers, most people don’t realize the bolt carrier actually rides high inside the raceway due to cartridge stack upward pressure from the magazine spring. The rails-in-contact are the top rails on the carrier, while the bottom rails kinda bounce off the inner lower raceway track. The initial contact area for the bottom of the carrier is the center spine at 6 o’clock that rides on top of the cartridge in pre-presentation.

Once the carrier clears the cartridge stack, the bottom rails are free to fall into-position with gravity, then they lift above again once the bottom spine rides over the next cartridge in the magazine and the stack lifts the carrier back up into tension against the inner top of the raceway.

What 45-90 is doing with the 4 hemisphere bolts on the carrier tail is controlling some of that banging around that happens normally with AR-15s, centering the carrier tail throughout its travel inside the RET, if I’m interpreting his placement of those bolts correctly ( I might be totally off my rocker as well.)
Basically one follows in the footsteps of those armorers willing to discuss, in print or video, the things they do to make match winning ARs.
Then one adds, subtracts, and mixes their findings into what is learned.
It's a never ending endevor, always learning.

Here is a visual difference...Same match ammo, same day...2 rifles
the top group is a factory Areo Precision upper fully assembled by them...
Bottom is first 5 shots fired out of a new Proof barrel assembled in an upper with all the gunsmith accuracy enhancements listed.. with 5 into half inch right out of the gate, and is to be expected.
This is normal accuracy, with the full process, and a quality barrel...5 shots will hit .25" to .6" with a variety of ammo...and sometimes LC brass with cheap varmint bullets will shoot .3" & .4" 5 shot groups...so it doesn't always take match ammo to be accurate.

Yes, it all makes a difference. Unfortunately some of it requires machine tools, and specialized equipment, but do everything you can with hand tools and glue in or shims to improve accuracy.
There are other things never discussed but were taught, that do not require machine tools to improve accuracy.
I do not use them in my build/ assembly, but others might. ARs are accurate.
 

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