I live about 20 minutes from San Marcos where Jewel Triggers Inc. is based. Has anyone here used this trigger to upgrade their 10/22 Ruger?
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Re: Jewel Triggers
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Imurhuckleberry</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I live about 20 minutes from San Marcos where Jewel Triggers Inc. is based. Has anyone here used this trigger to upgrade their 10/22 Ruger? </div></div>
Back when AMT was in business and making their 10/22 knockoff in SS, they used to use the (single stage) Jewell Trigger. However, as <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Thud</span></span> said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Thud</div><div class="ubbcode-body">They don't make a trigger for a 10/22 anymore. </div></div>
The best trigger in current production that is made for the 10/22 is the <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Kidd Two-Stage Trigger</span></span>. The Kidd Two-Stage Trigger is set up so that the 1st Stage take-up the slack, and the 2nd Stage is just the release.
Normally, the 1st Stage pull weight is set-up to be half of the 2nd Stage pull weight, i.e. <span style="font-style: italic">a "1 lb. trigger" has an 8 oz. 1st Stage and a 16 oz. (1 lb.) 2nd Stage</span> and so on. I have a "1 lb. Kidd" on my MOA 10/22 and it is perfect for me. That said, Tony Kidd will set-up your trigger to almost whatever you want, with the limitation being that the (2nd Stage) let-off pull be no less than 6 oz.
There are much less expensive 10/22 triggers out there from "tuned" factory units to complete aftermarket units, but so far with the exception of the Kidd they are all just re-worked and/or more refined units based on the original Ruger 10/22 design. As such they are are still limited by the design limitations of the Ruger design. That limitation is primarily the pull weight. They can be very smooth and have crisp breaks, but none of them are as smooth or can have the trigger break adjusted as light as a Kidd and still be safe from accidental discharge as the Kidd.
Kidd triggers can be had anodized Black or clearcoated natural aluminum with either the standard "Curved" trigger blade in Black or Red powdercoat, or an optional straight trigger blade. The straight blades are recommended only for stocks with vertical grips such as the <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">McMillan Anschutz Silhouette, STC, or STC Intimidator</span></span>. This is because straight blade triggers generally don't work well on non-vertical grips.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Kidd Trigger on threaded <span style="font-style: italic">MOA Stainless Replacement Receiver</span> / <span style="font-style: italic">Kidd Match Barrel</span> action:</span>
Keith
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Imurhuckleberry</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I live about 20 minutes from San Marcos where Jewel Triggers Inc. is based. Has anyone here used this trigger to upgrade their 10/22 Ruger? </div></div>
Back when AMT was in business and making their 10/22 knockoff in SS, they used to use the (single stage) Jewell Trigger. However, as <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Thud</span></span> said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Thud</div><div class="ubbcode-body">They don't make a trigger for a 10/22 anymore. </div></div>
The best trigger in current production that is made for the 10/22 is the <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Kidd Two-Stage Trigger</span></span>. The Kidd Two-Stage Trigger is set up so that the 1st Stage take-up the slack, and the 2nd Stage is just the release.
Normally, the 1st Stage pull weight is set-up to be half of the 2nd Stage pull weight, i.e. <span style="font-style: italic">a "1 lb. trigger" has an 8 oz. 1st Stage and a 16 oz. (1 lb.) 2nd Stage</span> and so on. I have a "1 lb. Kidd" on my MOA 10/22 and it is perfect for me. That said, Tony Kidd will set-up your trigger to almost whatever you want, with the limitation being that the (2nd Stage) let-off pull be no less than 6 oz.
There are much less expensive 10/22 triggers out there from "tuned" factory units to complete aftermarket units, but so far with the exception of the Kidd they are all just re-worked and/or more refined units based on the original Ruger 10/22 design. As such they are are still limited by the design limitations of the Ruger design. That limitation is primarily the pull weight. They can be very smooth and have crisp breaks, but none of them are as smooth or can have the trigger break adjusted as light as a Kidd and still be safe from accidental discharge as the Kidd.
Kidd triggers can be had anodized Black or clearcoated natural aluminum with either the standard "Curved" trigger blade in Black or Red powdercoat, or an optional straight trigger blade. The straight blades are recommended only for stocks with vertical grips such as the <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">McMillan Anschutz Silhouette, STC, or STC Intimidator</span></span>. This is because straight blade triggers generally don't work well on non-vertical grips.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Kidd Trigger on threaded <span style="font-style: italic">MOA Stainless Replacement Receiver</span> / <span style="font-style: italic">Kidd Match Barrel</span> action:</span>
Keith
Re: Jewel Triggers
I am super happy with my jard that cost me less than 200 dollars from brownell's, never had a single issue with it at 1.5lbs. I like the kid triggers but not for 300 bux. If you can convince arnold to make you one I say go for it!
Isaac
I am super happy with my jard that cost me less than 200 dollars from brownell's, never had a single issue with it at 1.5lbs. I like the kid triggers but not for 300 bux. If you can convince arnold to make you one I say go for it!
Isaac
