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KRG Bravo Chassis

You can use spacers with the tool less buttpad. When I had my Bravo I drilled a hole in the spacers and put them between the tool less buttpad and the chassis and it looked much cleaner.

The recoil pad spacers are designed to go between the tool less buttplate adjuster and the recoil pad. Same exact manner in which they fit between the standard buttplate adjuster and the recoil pad.

Not sure why anyone would set it up differently.
 
Got a KRG Bravo for the wife's custom build. I was really impressed with the chassis when I first received it - it's a very well done chassis at a great price.

It's on its way back from Branden at Custom Gun Coatings, I had him do a pretty unique paint job for the wife!
KRG Chassis.jpeg
 
All the T-3 Bravo's are coming with a modified cheekpiece now so you should be good.

It is difficult to explain but if someone's T-3 has the short action bolt stop then just the cocking indicator hits and only in a small range of cheekpiece height position. The problem is that it appears Tikka put long action bolt stops in some short action calibers thus allowing a much longer rearward bolt travel.

RFutch, thank you for your feedback, very glad to hear it!

dsnipe we may put just the Bravo back ends up, it would take a bit to get it going but it's possible.

Nothing yet on the simplified spigot, we're just too buried but it's on the radar along with the CTR/TRG mag version.

Thank you guys for your business!
Justin

Any updates on the CTR/TRG mag versions? Having to switch to AI mags is the only thing keeping me from getting a Bravo.
 
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The point is to let noobs know that there's the right way and the dumb way.

Great and thats just your opinion. If it was such an issue, I'm sure KRG would put something out saying not to drill a simple hole in the spacers and put them in front of the tool-less buttpad but they haven't. In fact, there's already multiple people that have done the same exact thing and no one has bat an eye except you.
 
Hello gentlemen, as mentioned above, the Tool-less buttpad height does work with the LOP spacers and it does also allow cant of the buttpad to about 15 degrees either way.

I don't have an answer on the CTR magazine version but we haven't ruled it out, we're just busy.

3mm is correct on the hex wrench.

Thank you guys for your business!
Justin
 
You guys that have the FDE Bravos, are you satisfied with the color? I have a FDE ordered with my JHR. The JHR has a black action, a SS barrel, and a FDE chassis. I'm having second thoughts on what that's going to look like. When we placed our order back in January, there wasn't a whole lot to look at. Now that I'm seeing the Nucleus actions and the Bravo chassis online, I'm just not sure. I'm thinking I should have ordered the black or the green. Thoughts?

I know, first world problems, right? :D
 
You guys that have the FDE Bravos, are you satisfied with the color? I have a FDE ordered with my JHR. The JHR has a black action, a SS barrel, and a FDE chassis. I'm having second thoughts on what that's going to look like. When we placed our order back in January, there wasn't a whole lot to look at. Now that I'm seeing the Nucleus actions and the Bravo chassis online, I'm just not sure. I'm thinking I should have ordered the black or the green. Thoughts?

I know, first world problems, right? :D
*****NOT MY RIFLE. SOMEONES POSTED IN SEEKINS HAVAK PAGE****

I think it looks great and pretty much what I’m shooting for. I think black action would look even better.
 

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You guys that have the FDE Bravos, are you satisfied with the color? I have a FDE ordered with my JHR. The JHR has a black action, a SS barrel, and a FDE chassis. I'm having second thoughts on what that's going to look like. When we placed our order back in January, there wasn't a whole lot to look at. Now that I'm seeing the Nucleus actions and the Bravo chassis online, I'm just not sure. I'm thinking I should have ordered the black or the green. Thoughts?

I know, first world problems, right? :D


I have the FDE Bravo on a Howa Barreled Action, and I think it looks great. It's a lighter shade than my Glock 34 in FDE, and I think the KRG is a better looking FDE.

I should have a Burris XTR II in FDE delivered tomorrow, and I'll see how they look together. I'll get some pics up soon.

Bob S.
 
You guys that have the FDE Bravos, are you satisfied with the color? I have a FDE ordered with my JHR. The JHR has a black action, a SS barrel, and a FDE chassis. I'm having second thoughts on what that's going to look like. When we placed our order back in January, there wasn't a whole lot to look at. Now that I'm seeing the Nucleus actions and the Bravo chassis online, I'm just not sure. I'm thinking I should have ordered the black or the green. Thoughts?

I know, first world problems, right? :D


I think mine looks pretty fantastic. Barrel and action are Cerakoted Black Graphite (H-146Q), and the bolt knob, hood, and muzzle brake are Cerakote FDE (C-246Q).
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I have a Seekins havak action in my bravo and the bolt is hitting the cheek rest. Has anyone had to modify the cheek rest to get full motion of the bolt?
Thanks

Do you have the Tikka cheekrest with the cutout on the nose for bolt clearance? If not, it would be worth getting one before you cut yours up....
 
My Havak in my Bravo does not have that problem. I have even tried my scope with X-high rings in that and the bolt still cleared. My bravo was one of the first out and has the cutout in the cheek piece. I did notice if I were to run the cheek piece higher then it would hit. Cheek weld where the bolt just clears has worked for me.
 
Got a KRG Bravo for the wife's custom build. I was really impressed with the chassis when I first received it - it's a very well done chassis at a great price.

It's on its way back from Branden at Custom Gun Coatings, I had him do a pretty unique paint job for the wife!View attachment 6931666

Am I the only one that saw this paint job and thought of this...

post-5361-130305790009.jpg
 
Short action

My Havak in my Bravo does not have that problem. I have even tried my scope with X-high rings in that and the bolt still cleared. My bravo was one of the first out and has the cutout in the cheek piece. I did notice if I were to run the cheek piece higher then it would hit. Cheek weld where the bolt just clears has worked for me.
Can you guys maybe post or PM me some pics of the setup so I can see if I should alter before I get a chance to get the rifle.
 
I will try to get some closer up pictures but here you can see the setup I ran. I wasn't planning on using that scope but my other one went down the day before a match. Here the bolt is in the rearward most position. I put the cheek rest just to where it would clear the bolt and the cheek weld was fine for me. That is a 34mm tube in the ARC X-high rings.
IMG_20180712_104059372_HDR.jpg
IMG_20180712_104106444_HDR.jpg
 
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I will try to get some closer up pictures but here you can see the setup I ran. I wasn't planning on using that scope but my other one went down the day before a match. Here the bolt is in the rearward most position. I put the cheek rest just to where it would clear the bolt and the cheek weld was fine for me. That is a 34mm tube in the ARC X-high rings.View attachment 6934197View attachment 6934198
Greatly appreciated! From what I’ve played with the havak I do like it but I do not get making a “700 footprint” action but having the subtle differences/pains lol. My HP1 showed up at shop last week I’m just waiting for stock and parts to show up so I can make one trip.
 
I only chamfered the back edge of the recoil lug slot slightly. The timney that came with the HAVAK rubbed the right hand side of the trigger cutout. The safety was rough to operate but still functioned. I did not sand this down in my Bravo, rather I swapped to a Huber. What other differences/pains are there?
 
I only chamfered the back edge of the recoil lug slot slightly. The timney that came with the HAVAK rubbed the right hand side of the trigger cutout. The safety was rough to operate but still functioned. I did not sand this down in my Bravo, rather I swapped to a Huber. What other differences/pains are there?
The length of the bolt/shroud. I have the bravo on a Christensen Arms action and had it on a R700 actions for a minute and I can run the cheek peice anywhere and not have it hit. Also the extra length on the end of the other side of the action in front of the recoil lug. There isn’t a issue with that with the bravo because the “chassis” is level end to end. Standard 700 inlets on stocks don’t work with Seekins due to the action material in front of the recoil lug. That being said if it has room for a prefit barrel nut the Seekins has a better chance of dropping right in. It’s very close in a lot of ways but I don’t think it’s a straight up works with any standard 700 inlet stock/chassis.
 
I will try to get some closer up pictures but here you can see the setup I ran. I wasn't planning on using that scope but my other one went down the day before a match. Here the bolt is in the rearward most position. I put the cheek rest just to where it would clear the bolt and the cheek weld was fine for me. That is a 34mm tube in the ARC X-high rings.View attachment 6934197View attachment 6934198

How does you barrel do on matches? I went with an HP1 I stead of the ph1 thinking the lighter barrel may heat up too much and start walking but now I think I am regretting my decision lol.
 
How does you barrel do on matches? I went with an HP1 I stead of the ph1 thinking the lighter barrel may heat up too much and start walking but now I think I am regretting my decision lol.

the barrel gets pretty hot in 8-10 rounds. I don't notice it walking, but have not had time to specifically check. In the sun that day I was not able to pick up the gun by the barrel it was so hot. For a 6.5 PRC at elr matches i would much prefer a heavy barrel both for heat and recoil. Even in the Bravo this is a pretty lightweight setup.
 
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You guys that have the FDE Bravos, are you satisfied with the color? I have a FDE ordered with my JHR. The JHR has a black action, a SS barrel, and a FDE chassis. I'm having second thoughts on what that's going to look like. When we placed our order back in January, there wasn't a whole lot to look at. Now that I'm seeing the Nucleus actions and the Bravo chassis online, I'm just not sure. I'm thinking I should have ordered the black or the green. Thoughts?

I know, first world problems, right? :D

I like the looks of my FDE Bravo and have a FDE Sterk bolt and shroud. Now if I could just get the time to shoot it.

C0BAAEB5-617D-4B0A-8F1C-0B66B24192D6.jpeg
 
I like that FDE! Nice!

I've finally decided to forego the Bravo for now. Kept going back and forth and found one for $380 shipped brand new, but I just like my CTR stock and mag too much to pay to switch with all the uncertainty around AICS with longer short action cartridges like 6.5 CM.

I'll hold off til they make a CTR version, or I'll keep an eye out for a cheap McMillan that's inlet for a CTR and put my triad tactical stock pack on it for a riser.
 
What do you mean by longer short action cartridges like 6.5CM? Do you mean Creedmoor or Competition/Match? The Creedmoor was made as a short .260 in essence.
Justin
Cartridges that are right up against the limit of what OAL max is on AICS mags, especially with the excessively long throated Tikka chamber.

If I can't find a cheap stock before I shoot out my barrel, I will get an aftermarket with a shorter throat, switch to the Bravo/AICS, and not worry about anything. Danny something-or-other mentioned that in a thread and I thought it was a good idea.
 
Cartridges that are right up against the limit of what OAL max is on AICS mags, especially with the excessively long throated Tikka chamber...

Just a heads up, SAAMI spec on OAL for the 6.5 Creedmoor and .260 both are about 2.8", well inside a standard AICS mag. With a Tikka you can run AICS mags without the restrictor plate which gives you almost identical internal OAL as the TRG mag, over 2.950".
Justin
 
Second Bravo Chassis- this time for the Seekins Havak. Had to mod bolt catch to allow the bolt to be ran with mags, and the bolt does hit the cheek piece when it’s up high enough. Other than that it drops in and is a great option for the Havak! On this one I added the Arca Swiss Rail, butt hook cover, and adjustable tooless butt plate. I will also add a stick on cheek pad to avoid having to make a permanent mod to the cheek piece to allow for bolt clearance.

This a “newer” Bravo. The recoil lug area was already relieved, mags drop free, and the extended mag release came on it. The Bravo I purchased a couple months ago didn’t have any of that. Great new touches to an already awesome product!
 

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