- Thread starter mm509
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Did you have to remove material in the chassis for the TT?
New backbones do not need material removed for TT triggers if you don’t have a W3 yet.
Mine is the gen3 or 4 so I’m guessing I would need to remove material. I got a timney in right now so I guess I’ll just keep it
I appreciate it, but I'm going to take a shot at it myself...if it turns out anything like most of my artistic endeavors, I might have to strip it down and take you up on your offer!
Very porous sea sponge is the ticket. I just spray whatever color on a paper plate, dab the paint, then dab the rifle. I did nothing for prep other than a light scrub down with a green pad followed by a wipe down of mineral spirits.
I didn't measure but seems like trigger reach is about the same. However due to the W3's stock design, it's a bit more difficult for me to reach the trigger. The Bravo is much more comfortable and I'm able to reach the trigger better and set my index finger at 90°
That’s what I’m afraid of. It looks like the thumb shelf kinda forces your hand to a more open position?
Thumb shelf slightly but also chassis stock itself....the metal part. With the Bravo, there is no metal part that go straight back, it curves down to the grip. With the W3, the outside of my thumb/knuckle rubs against the metal part of the stock.
I may switch to the MDT ACC. Adjustable grip and the magwell is slightly tighter. With the KRG's I usually have issues with bolt binding on mag feed lips.
Although, I have not tried the larger grip panels...this may help.
It may work for you, you'll just have to try it out. Everyone's hand is diff.
Have any of you guys tried any external mlok weights up front on either the standard Whiskey forend or the enclosed forend..? I can't even find any pics of any with mlok weights... Specifically, do the Gray Ops mlok weights work..?
I put some on my front M-Lok spots a while ago. I used the MDT weights, and they worked fine. I would have preferred to get them farther forward to balance my then 20" CTR barrel. It sure would be nice if KRG made a steel, heavy weight spigot specifically for balance reasons. I think putting the weights on the enclosed forend would work best if you need more weight out front.
Ok, thanks, that's kind of what I was looking for.
I have been looking at swapping from a Bravo to a Whiskey with either standard or enclosed forend... or maybe just buying an enclosed forend for my Bravo.
I already own pretty much everything KRG makes as far as weights that'll work with a Bravo and standard Whiskey forend: T-slot weight, Heavy ARCA Rail, Heavy ARCA Spacer. And with my Bravo and all the KRG add-ons I have a 23lb rifle that balances perfectly, and I'd like things to stay that way...
I've just been doing some math on all the different ways to cobble all the different KRG shit together like Legos to get different combinations, seeing if I can add any capability without just wasting hundreds of dollars for something that just looks fancier.
If I were to go to an enclosed forend, for me to set it up as close to the same as I'm used to, on top of the $270 for the new forend, it would mean buying an additional $300+ in weights and I'd only gain 1.25lbs... but not really, since I would no longer be able to use a pair of external mlok weights (.79lbs) up front, and I've got the backbone NV Cap and minimalist Spigot for the Bravo too, so that stuff weighs a few ounces, so it's actually more like: net less than ~ +5 ounces (.3lbs). Seems like a pain in the ass and a bit expensive just for a cooler looking forend lol.
The rear end weight situation also becomes a little wonky if I switch to a Whiskey ass-end: I run 3 steel LOP spacers/weights in the back for optimal LOP and balance, 3 rear LOP spacers/weights = 1.95lbs and my LOP is ~13.75" - if I go to a Whiskey rear end, using the 3 spacers/weights in the back will negate any benefit of having tool-less LOP because I won't be able to go shorter (might even end up too long at the shortest setting), so I'll have to buy their Heavy Flat Bag Rider (1.4lbs) and use 1 LOP spacer/weight, and the Whiskey chassis in either configuration is at least +$500 for the privilege of having a cool looking aluminum rear end. Again, IDK if it's worth the trouble.
I'm starting to get the feeling that I'm just playing around with ways to spend money for no reason lol.
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Looks stormtroopery. Nice work!
Haha wasn’t exactly what I was going for, just thought a distressed look might be different and those were the colours I had lol. Plus I’d seen one once before somewhat similar and it looked awesome. A lot nicer then my work lol
Turns out wasn’t satisfied with it so tried something a little different.
Dude looks even better!
Thank you! I’m much happier with it. I seen a white whiskey 3 in a distressed that just looked awesome but mine just didn’t look right. After I finished this, I pulled my 25 creed out and threw the vudoo in it with the new element nexus 5-20 just so I can do some shooting for the time being lol
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What are you supposed to torque the action to in the W3 chassis?
IIRC 45-65 in/lbs with a note that some rifles shoot better torqued below 65. I’ve always used 65.
This might be a dumb question to ask here... but... how does the enclosed fore end feel compared to the standard? My most significant gripe with the KRG chassis is the square profile on the fore end. My Manners CS-2 is larger, almost comically so, and feels substantially better in the hand while carrying or shooting.
I sold my enclosed fore-end. I didn't like it because of how much trouble that I'd have if I had to take the action out of the chassis. It may be okay for some people but it wasn't for me.
The Bravo takes any Whiskey 3 or X ray buttstock.
I wish KRG would sell an X ray for the Tikka CTR mag.
Not sure why they don't. All it seems that they need to do is take a Tikka CTR Bravo and replace the buttstock with an X ray one.
Wow, that looks REALLY close to the barrel, from the photo view.
Still a picatinny peasant - no arca yet.
It is pretty close, but even when flexing, it's not really making contact with the barrel. I'm also running a stupid fat barrel.
I run the minimalist with a CAL.
How do you install the spigot inside the enclosed forend?
What an asshole, sorry for the delay. I had to remove a section of the internal ribs in the forend and add some additional mounting holes.
Latest Cerakote job.
Does the enclosed forend come with a sling stud so that I can put a harris on it ?
Mine didn’t, but the profile of the forend is pretty flat, I don’t know how well a standard Harris would work. Might want to consider an alternative attachment method.
Just found this on KRG's site while looking at their bipod direct mount (that ill probably pick up instead of using the stud"
**The Harris Bipod Direct Mount IS NOT required for mounting a bipod to our chassis systems. Every chassis ships with a Harris Stud and a section on Pic rail**
