Its not just the point, its the recoil that applies force to the primer from the round stacked in front of it. Its not enough in a 38 special to cause an Issue. But if its a concern, don't use it that particular one.
Last edited:
Sidearms & Scatterguns Lever Action thread
- Thread starter tanders11
- Start date
That is a beautiful rifle. Classic.
Thanks. I barely shoot it unfortunately but at least I have it. I also got a rem 1100lw 410 made in 81' from him also. That I do use
Henry 38 spl w rugged can. Pretty pleasant shooting.
I personally don't see an issue. Like the other guy said, applied force from recoil mixed with a smaller/sharper point could lead to an issue theoretically. But IMO with small primers, low recoil 38's, and it's not even a spire or pointed tip, I just cant see that happening. Now if you're using a sharp spire pointed bullet in a hot loaded 45-70 that uses large primers, then ya I wouldn't recommend it.
I've shot probably 500+ rds of the PPU 38 special round nose without issue. The Remingtons in your photo have a flat point so I just don't see that happening. Now obviously it's always possible, but anything is possible and we take calculated risks every day we reload.
No problem. She shoots great and its one of my favorite rifles. Its usually what I grab to walk in the woods. I mainly shoot subs out of it right now, but am currently working up another load with 158 XTP's and 300-MP as a general purpose heavy load. I have some 180 GC hard cast on the way as well. The 180gr load 357 load I'm running now is around 1500fps and it's ok. Sort of just threw it together, but with the new 300-MP powder, hoping to get it up to the 1700+ mark.
I was shooting my Subs at 160yds yesterday rested on the side of my truck and was making pretty easy hits on a 66% IPSC steel. The subs I have now are only running like 850-900fps. I'd like to get a more accurate load up around 1000-1050. This is all with HI-Tek 125gr cast bullets.
Chiappa Alaskan, 20" barrel in 44 mag.
Currently with a Leupold 2.5x28 Scout Scope
Skinner carry case:
Reckon should be good for a cleaning kit / rod and an MTM box of 50 rds.
And when you unpack it:
And out on the range:
Think I have developed an OK plinking load (240gr cast lead RNFP and Unique) and a hunting load (Nosler 240gr JSP over N110)
50 yd 4 shot group with the hunting load:
It's just gone away to have an XS rear peep sight fitted.
Best wishes,
Scrummy
Currently with a Leupold 2.5x28 Scout Scope
Skinner carry case:
Reckon should be good for a cleaning kit / rod and an MTM box of 50 rds.
And when you unpack it:
And out on the range:
Think I have developed an OK plinking load (240gr cast lead RNFP and Unique) and a hunting load (Nosler 240gr JSP over N110)
50 yd 4 shot group with the hunting load:
It's just gone away to have an XS rear peep sight fitted.
Best wishes,
Scrummy
That little Marlin is very sweet
Built back before you could just go buy them this way. lol
<- 100 yards
Last edited:
Just an FYI- Hol0sun is just a name invented for the western world by a CC P funded and controlled company Hu@nic, so every dime they get from us goes to the CC P and their comrades. They've been waging economic and cold war against us since the Korean war.
That’ll work nice!Built back before you could just go buy them this way. lol
<- 100 yards
A couple old 94's in 30 WCF.
The one with peep and friction tape was my grandfathers and mom's rifle. The "slightly" newer one w/ stock replaced is my physical therapists.
It just needed a couple patches down the bore and a few drops of oil. I bought the replacement stock years ago . Didnt have the heart to use it.
Mom killed a number of deer with hers, my PT got his from his Grandpa.
1928 & 1930 manufacture according to the dates below. Older than most/All of us?
Winchester 1894/94 Serial Number List
Determining date by serialization has become confusing as it has been determined by the staff of the Cody Firearms Museum that previous work by George Madis is incorrect. This is not due to the quality of work performed by Mr. Madis, but by the questionable data provided to him. The following list includes the data held at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center in Cody Wyoming (CFM) and the previously understood figures (Madis). It is up to the collector to make the best use of this data that they can.
1894 end of year serial number was 1674 (CFM), 14579 (Madis)
1895 end of year serial number was 14222 (CFM), 44359 (Madis)
1896 end of year serial number was 18571 (CFM), 76464 (Madis)
1897 end of year serial number was 33108 (CFM), 111453 (Madis)
1898 end of year serial number was 53941 (CFM), 147684 (Madis)
Any gun manufactured prior to January 1, 1899 is legally an Antique and is not affected by any federal regulations regarding the ownership or transfer of firearms.
1899 end of year serial number was 80148 (CFM), 183371 (Madis)
1900 end of year serial number was 103932 (CFM), 204427 (Madis)
1901 end of year serial number was 137058 (CFM), 233975 (Madis)
1902 end of year serial number was 168420 (CFM), 273854 (Madis)
1903 end of year serial number was 204565 (CFM), 291506 (Madis)
1904 end of year serial number was 249782 (CFM), 311363 (Madis)
1905 end of year serial number was 291706 (CFM), 337557 (Madis)
1906 end of year serial number was 331895 (CFM), 378878 (Madis)
1907 end of year serial number was 381524 (CFM), 430985 (Madis)
1908 end of year serial number was 429757 (CFM), 474241 (Madis)
1909 end of year serial number was 449102 (CFM), 505831 (Madis)
1910 end of year serial number was 479073 (CFM), 553062 (Madis)
1911 end of year serial number was 534429 (CFM), 599263 (Madis)
1912 end of year serial number was 591281 (CFM), 646114 (Madis)
1913 end of year serial number was 645304 (CFM), 703701 (Madis)
1914 end of year serial number was 722280 (CFM), 756066 (Madis)
1915 end of year serial number was 825186 (CFM), 784052 (Madis)
1916 end of year serial number was 840846 (CFM), 807741 (Madis)
1917 end of year serial number was 873425 (CFM), 821972 (Madis)
1918 end of year serial number was 882032 (CFM), 838175 (Madis)
1919 end of year serial number was 895365 (CFM), 870762 (Madis)
1920 end of year serial number was 926851 (CFM), 880627 (Madis)
1921 end of year serial number was 935778 (CFM), 908318 (Madis)
1922 end of year serial number was 951501 (CFM), 919583 (Madis)
1923 end of year serial number was 964709 (CFM), 938539 (Madis)
1924 end of year serial number was 974121 (CFM), 953198 (Madis)
1925 end of year serial number was 987148 (CFM), 978523 (Madis)
1926 end of year serial number was 997938 (CFM), 997603 (Madis)
1927 end of year serial number was 1012753 (CFM), 1027571 (Madis)
1928 end of year serial number was 1038665 (CFM), 1054465 (Madis)
1929 end of year serial number was 1060899 (CFM), 1077097 (Madis)
1930 end of year serial number was 1071420 (CFM), 1081755 (Madis)
1931 end of year serial number was 1079689 (CFM), 1084156 (Madis)
1932 end of year serial number was 1088141 (CFM), 1087836 (Madis)
1933 end of year serial number was 1092328 (CFM), 1089270 (Madis)
1934 end of year serial number was 1095364 (CFM), 1091190 (Madis)
1935 end of year serial number was 1099625 (CFM), 1099605 (Madis)
1936 end of year serial number was 1119104 (CFM), 1100065 (Madis)
1937 end of year serial number was 1158835 (CFM), 1100679 (Madis)
1938 end of year serial number was 1198405 (CFM), 1100915 (Madis)
1939 end of year serial number was 1216165 (CFM), 1101051 (Madis)
1940 end of year serial number was 1259563 (CFM), 1142423 (Madis)
1941 end of year serial number was 1313301 (CFM), 1191307 (Madis)
1942 end of year serial number was 1343183 (CFM), 1221289 (Madis)
1943 end of year serial number was 1343190* (CFM), 1267741* (Madis)
1944 end of year serial number was 1343196 (CFM), 1314193* (Madis)
1945 end of year serial number was 1352066 (CFM), 1360645* (Madis)
1946 end of year serial number was 1407097* (Madis)
1947 end of year serial number was 1453549* (Madis)
1948 end of year serial number was 1500000 (Madis)
1949 end of year serial number was 1626100 (Madis)
1950 end of year serial number was 1724295 (Madis)
1960 end of year serial number was 2469821 (Madis)
1963** end of year serial number was 2586000 (Madis)
1964*** end of year serial number was 2700000 (Madis)
1965 end of year serial number was 2894428 (Madis)
1966 end of year serial number was 2991927 (Madis)
1967 end of year serial number was 3088458 (Madis)
1968 end of year serial number was 3185691 (Madis)
1969 end of year serial number was 3284570 (Madis)
1970 end of year serial number was 3381299 (Madis)
1980 end of year serial number was 4892951 (Madis)
1981 end of year serial number was 5024957 (Madis)
1982 end of year serial number was 5103248 (Madis)
The one with peep and friction tape was my grandfathers and mom's rifle. The "slightly" newer one w/ stock replaced is my physical therapists.
It just needed a couple patches down the bore and a few drops of oil. I bought the replacement stock years ago . Didnt have the heart to use it.
Mom killed a number of deer with hers, my PT got his from his Grandpa.
1928 & 1930 manufacture according to the dates below. Older than most/All of us?
Winchester 1894/94 Serial Number List
Determining date by serialization has become confusing as it has been determined by the staff of the Cody Firearms Museum that previous work by George Madis is incorrect. This is not due to the quality of work performed by Mr. Madis, but by the questionable data provided to him. The following list includes the data held at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center in Cody Wyoming (CFM) and the previously understood figures (Madis). It is up to the collector to make the best use of this data that they can.
1894 end of year serial number was 1674 (CFM), 14579 (Madis)
1895 end of year serial number was 14222 (CFM), 44359 (Madis)
1896 end of year serial number was 18571 (CFM), 76464 (Madis)
1897 end of year serial number was 33108 (CFM), 111453 (Madis)
1898 end of year serial number was 53941 (CFM), 147684 (Madis)
Any gun manufactured prior to January 1, 1899 is legally an Antique and is not affected by any federal regulations regarding the ownership or transfer of firearms.
1899 end of year serial number was 80148 (CFM), 183371 (Madis)
1900 end of year serial number was 103932 (CFM), 204427 (Madis)
1901 end of year serial number was 137058 (CFM), 233975 (Madis)
1902 end of year serial number was 168420 (CFM), 273854 (Madis)
1903 end of year serial number was 204565 (CFM), 291506 (Madis)
1904 end of year serial number was 249782 (CFM), 311363 (Madis)
1905 end of year serial number was 291706 (CFM), 337557 (Madis)
1906 end of year serial number was 331895 (CFM), 378878 (Madis)
1907 end of year serial number was 381524 (CFM), 430985 (Madis)
1908 end of year serial number was 429757 (CFM), 474241 (Madis)
1909 end of year serial number was 449102 (CFM), 505831 (Madis)
1910 end of year serial number was 479073 (CFM), 553062 (Madis)
1911 end of year serial number was 534429 (CFM), 599263 (Madis)
1912 end of year serial number was 591281 (CFM), 646114 (Madis)
1913 end of year serial number was 645304 (CFM), 703701 (Madis)
1914 end of year serial number was 722280 (CFM), 756066 (Madis)
1915 end of year serial number was 825186 (CFM), 784052 (Madis)
1916 end of year serial number was 840846 (CFM), 807741 (Madis)
1917 end of year serial number was 873425 (CFM), 821972 (Madis)
1918 end of year serial number was 882032 (CFM), 838175 (Madis)
1919 end of year serial number was 895365 (CFM), 870762 (Madis)
1920 end of year serial number was 926851 (CFM), 880627 (Madis)
1921 end of year serial number was 935778 (CFM), 908318 (Madis)
1922 end of year serial number was 951501 (CFM), 919583 (Madis)
1923 end of year serial number was 964709 (CFM), 938539 (Madis)
1924 end of year serial number was 974121 (CFM), 953198 (Madis)
1925 end of year serial number was 987148 (CFM), 978523 (Madis)
1926 end of year serial number was 997938 (CFM), 997603 (Madis)
1927 end of year serial number was 1012753 (CFM), 1027571 (Madis)
1928 end of year serial number was 1038665 (CFM), 1054465 (Madis)
1929 end of year serial number was 1060899 (CFM), 1077097 (Madis)
1930 end of year serial number was 1071420 (CFM), 1081755 (Madis)
1931 end of year serial number was 1079689 (CFM), 1084156 (Madis)
1932 end of year serial number was 1088141 (CFM), 1087836 (Madis)
1933 end of year serial number was 1092328 (CFM), 1089270 (Madis)
1934 end of year serial number was 1095364 (CFM), 1091190 (Madis)
1935 end of year serial number was 1099625 (CFM), 1099605 (Madis)
1936 end of year serial number was 1119104 (CFM), 1100065 (Madis)
1937 end of year serial number was 1158835 (CFM), 1100679 (Madis)
1938 end of year serial number was 1198405 (CFM), 1100915 (Madis)
1939 end of year serial number was 1216165 (CFM), 1101051 (Madis)
1940 end of year serial number was 1259563 (CFM), 1142423 (Madis)
1941 end of year serial number was 1313301 (CFM), 1191307 (Madis)
1942 end of year serial number was 1343183 (CFM), 1221289 (Madis)
1943 end of year serial number was 1343190* (CFM), 1267741* (Madis)
1944 end of year serial number was 1343196 (CFM), 1314193* (Madis)
1945 end of year serial number was 1352066 (CFM), 1360645* (Madis)
1946 end of year serial number was 1407097* (Madis)
1947 end of year serial number was 1453549* (Madis)
1948 end of year serial number was 1500000 (Madis)
1949 end of year serial number was 1626100 (Madis)
1950 end of year serial number was 1724295 (Madis)
1960 end of year serial number was 2469821 (Madis)
1963** end of year serial number was 2586000 (Madis)
1964*** end of year serial number was 2700000 (Madis)
1965 end of year serial number was 2894428 (Madis)
1966 end of year serial number was 2991927 (Madis)
1967 end of year serial number was 3088458 (Madis)
1968 end of year serial number was 3185691 (Madis)
1969 end of year serial number was 3284570 (Madis)
1970 end of year serial number was 3381299 (Madis)
1980 end of year serial number was 4892951 (Madis)
1981 end of year serial number was 5024957 (Madis)
1982 end of year serial number was 5103248 (Madis)
Last edited:
Wait for Ruger to start making them again. I’ve heard good things about the first run they’ve made of the 45-70, so if that’s a precursor to what else is to come, I’d wait.
This! The market for any dark series is crazy. At the end of the day $850 vs $2k+ 
Win 1892 .38WCF (1904)
Win 1894 .30WCF (1950-52? Don't remember)
Savage 1899 .250-3000 (embarrassed to say I don't remember any more either)
Savage 99C .308 Win (late 1960's)
Red Ryder 1947-ish
The Marlin I posted earlier in this thread.
Red Ryder late 90's, early 2000's? (note the custom ivory front sight. lol (made from a piano key))
Pic originally taken for scale
Win 1894 .30WCF (1950-52? Don't remember)
Savage 1899 .250-3000 (embarrassed to say I don't remember any more either)
Savage 99C .308 Win (late 1960's)
Red Ryder 1947-ish
The Marlin I posted earlier in this thread.
Red Ryder late 90's, early 2000's? (note the custom ivory front sight. lol (made from a piano key))
Pic originally taken for scale
Last edited:
So now I need a few things:
Threaded 30-30 for my sandman
Form 1 can that’s .458
Threaded 45-70
Threaded 44 mag/357 mag
Thanks a lot assholes
Threaded 30-30 for my sandman
Form 1 can that’s .458
Threaded 45-70
Threaded 44 mag/357 mag
Thanks a lot assholes
So now I need a few things:
Threaded 30-30 for my sandman
Form 1 can that’s .458
Threaded 45-70
Threaded 44 mag/357 mag
Thanks a lot assholes
I've been needing a threaded 30-30 for a while but they're all out of stock. The marlin dark 336 is nowhere to be found. We'll have to wait for Ruger to bring out their new ones sometime soon.
Was wondering how hard it would be to have a 336 or a 94 threaded. The tube mag goes damn near the end of the barrel. I’d take the wood off and find some synthetic furniture or stain the wood black.
Ranger Point Precision has a decent lightweight shorty tube - which is unfortunately incompatible with their mlok forend, though I designed and had MKM print an adapter widget. Using that, and cutting the barrel to 16.x inches, you can do 9/16-24 threads with just enough of a shoulder to be worth a damn for indexing.
Of course I fucked up when I did the muzzle threading with a rental kit (and not a lathe) and now my barrel is all kinds of fucked up and shoots minute of broad side of barn, but the “everything else” is good.
Hi folks,
Well, XS Rear sight has been added to the Chiappa Alaskan. I shall try and get to the range and shoot it a bit with the irons and also with the scout scope back on.
Peep sight is now nicely back at the rear where it should be.
Scrummy
Well, XS Rear sight has been added to the Chiappa Alaskan. I shall try and get to the range and shoot it a bit with the irons and also with the scout scope back on.
Peep sight is now nicely back at the rear where it should be.
Scrummy
The only lever action that I have is a .22lr and I love that little rifle. But now I'm all geeked up to get a big one, just can't decide what caliber. It would be nice to match my .357, but I'm wanting to go big. I want this rifle for camping/hiking in places that can take down any big predator.
For those with a .45-70, I have a question. Is the recoil just too brutal for the wife to use?
For those with a .45-70, I have a question. Is the recoil just too brutal for the wife to use?
No. The “ cowboy” loads will kill anything that walks.
If you reload you can make it really fun to shoot.
My dad was a Marlin guy. He passed a few months back, and I inherited his firearms collection…Which included some fairly hard-to-find in good condition vintage Marlins… Including a 1958 336 in .30-30 Win with gloss blue finish, and beautiful tiger-stripe American Black Walnut stocks. An old 60’s or 70’s 336 in .444 Marlin.
And a more recent built (I’m guessing 90’s) NIB 1894 SS in .44 Mag that he never shot or even pulled out of the box. Still had only iron sights and plug screws in the top of the receiver.
So, I decided to mess with the 1894 SS first, as it’s a lightweight and handy little rifle to carry around the woods or property, and I gave it a bit of a modern upgrade… Some purists might consider it blasphemy, but once you see how it shoots, you might reevaluate your opinion.
So, first things first, I needed an optic…So I swapped the Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8x24 SFP off of my 16” .300 BLK, leveled it in a set of Seekins Precision 30mm Low rings, and mounted them on the new EGW 0MOA pic rail I got for it, and bore-sighted it with a Sightmark laser that is made to fit in the chamber for individual cartridges. I’m really impressed how close that got me… 2 shot sight-in at 50, then 2 more to zero it at 100.
Since I have owned .44 Mags for many many years, I already had a good collection of factory Hornady LeverEvolution 225gr sitting around, and decided to start there with sight-in and testing loads. This is also where my testing stopped…
Here is a 3-shot group (8” target) @ 100 yards shot back-to-back with factory Hornady LeverEvolution 225gr ammo, on a clean bore that only had 4 sight-in rounds through it.
And a more recent built (I’m guessing 90’s) NIB 1894 SS in .44 Mag that he never shot or even pulled out of the box. Still had only iron sights and plug screws in the top of the receiver.
So, I decided to mess with the 1894 SS first, as it’s a lightweight and handy little rifle to carry around the woods or property, and I gave it a bit of a modern upgrade… Some purists might consider it blasphemy, but once you see how it shoots, you might reevaluate your opinion.
So, first things first, I needed an optic…So I swapped the Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8x24 SFP off of my 16” .300 BLK, leveled it in a set of Seekins Precision 30mm Low rings, and mounted them on the new EGW 0MOA pic rail I got for it, and bore-sighted it with a Sightmark laser that is made to fit in the chamber for individual cartridges. I’m really impressed how close that got me… 2 shot sight-in at 50, then 2 more to zero it at 100.
Since I have owned .44 Mags for many many years, I already had a good collection of factory Hornady LeverEvolution 225gr sitting around, and decided to start there with sight-in and testing loads. This is also where my testing stopped…
Here is a 3-shot group (8” target) @ 100 yards shot back-to-back with factory Hornady LeverEvolution 225gr ammo, on a clean bore that only had 4 sight-in rounds through it.
Very nice. Did you decide that BUIS just were never going to get used or am I missing them in the pic?From this…to this…
my eyes don’t work with iron sights so no use to me. I like the clean lines of no irons. Plus this is not a combat rig so the chances of ever needing BUIS is slim to none for me.
I just have the standard collection. 30-30, .357, .44, 45-70, and a .22
Any chance you could DM me links and a parts list? I'm wanting to do this to that stainless 1894 SS I posted above, and maybe my old .30-30...From this…to this…
Message sent.
Lots of pictures on Mad Pig‘s site: https://madpigcustoms.com/lever-gunsmithing
And Chisel has a bunch on their FB page: https://www.facebook.com/ChiselMachining
I don't use FB, but I do follow both on IG.
Anyone know anything about Henry production? Seems like they are backed up? Would like a color case hardened 30-30 and emailed them but got a generic response.
It took me calling around my local FFLs to find my model x and got really lucky. Check Henry’s website and see if you have any high volume Henry dealers near you.
From what I’ve been seeing, they come in batches, with almost no stock in between.
I found a Henry Big Boy X 30-30 on Gunbroker. It was about $250.00 over list, but I wanted it. I would look there and look to find a good deal. Some of the auctions are higher than the purchase price of some of the Henrys being offered.
All the distributors with whom I have accounts don't have any meaningful inventory of Henry products at this time. Even the .22LR models are a bit scarce.
I finally picked up a Ruger-made Marlin 1895 Trapper. It's well-made with excellent fit and finish, but felt like absolute garbage until I tore it down, flushed out a bunch of fine particulates (looked like a glitter bomb went off inside the receiver) and applied grease in the appropriate areas. Yeah, we all know that new guns often require cleaning, but if the average customer comes across one of these on the shelf, they're unlikely to be impressed given the four-digit MSRP.
I went the Marlin CST route and never looked back. Love the .38/.357 caliber. I could shoot this all day long. Stuuuupid quiet with .38 subs, but strong enough for deer with full power .357's.
Similar threads
Gunsmithing Trigger job browning blr
