Need So. Cal. gunsmith for brake install on a carbon wrapped barrel-know anyone>

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I have an 18" fluted carbon-wrapped barrel from BSF that I wanna put a muzzle brake on but want someone who has done this before. BSF is quite specific about the manner in which this is done (as shown at https://94fbfb53-6b6e-4f62-acab-29f...d/5e8dd2_9d1a7e4d524d4e558410ebdc31139632.pdf) but I don't want my rifle to be part of a gunsmith's learning curve.

Need someone with experience. Know anybody? Putting it on this rifle.

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Seems like a pretty straightforward install, but I understand your hesitancy. The only thing I would recommend is to get your shims from Precision Reflex if the MD needs to be timed. They are the only ones, that I know of, that include 0.002" shims. Others only go down to 0.003", and with a 15 ft/lb max torque and "hand grip only barrel vise", that might be useful. I'm surprised that BSF doesn't mention anything about threadlocker, like Rocksett.
 
Send your upper to Dane at DMR Rifles in Vegas, that's child play for him.
Dane does incredible work, top notch in all respects (he’s built rifles for myself and buddies, all hammers) but I’d be skeptical if something like this would be easily doable, even for him.

I could be wrong but there doesn’t seem to be enough meat on the portion forward of the carbon wrapping, as others have said.
 
The carbon is sleeve is tensioned in place and not glued to the barrel in any way if I understand BSF's explanation. What holds the carbon on when you remove the steel ahead of it? What is the barrel diameter under the sleeve? Is it enough to thread? Will the CF make a good shoulder for a muzzle to device to snug against?
 
Cutting the carbon back kind of defeats the purpose of a CFW tension barrel. And then you'd just have a wobbly carbon sleeve on the end.
Presumably, that shiny metal piece on the end of the barrel is what is giving tension to the carbon fiber, and is held in place by threading on the barrel. I do not know this, but that is my assumption. Being able to see the end of the barrel might give some additional insight. It would be trivial to add a muzzle brake to this barrel. I am assuming that the threading on this barrel is what holds that carbon fiber wrap tensioner thing on place.
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Presumably, that shiny metal piece on the end of the barrel is what is giving tension to the carbon fiber, and is held in place by threading on the barrel. I do not know this, but that is my assumption. Being able to see the end of the barrel might give some additional insight. It would be trivial to add a muzzle brake to this barrel. I am assuming that the threading on this barrel is what holds that carbon fiber wrap tensioner thing on place. View attachment 7667578

EDIT: Found a video of how they make the BSF barrels - they're not bonded. You are correct, you could shorten the carbon, rethread, and recap the end to restore tension (the carbon is under compression, the steel tension. Not generally how carbon tubes are loaded).

I still stand by the assessment it would be a better idea to replace with a barrel that matches the desired config from the manufacturer, but it is not outside the realm of possible.
 
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Presumably, that shiny metal piece on the end of the barrel is what is giving tension to the carbon fiber, and is held in place by threading on the barrel. I do not know this, but that is my assumption. Being able to see the end of the barrel might give some additional insight. It would be trivial to add a muzzle brake to this barrel. I am assuming that the threading on this barrel is what holds that carbon fiber wrap tensioner thing on place. View attachment 7667578

Be better off to just swap to a barrel like this, vs trying to machine a square peg into a round hole.
 
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Be better off to just swap to a barrel like this, vs trying to machine a square peg into a round hole.
Depending on how hard it is to do and the necessary skill level needed it may not be to much cheaper than a new barrel. With a new barrel you will at least get exactly what you want in the end. Who knows with the other route
 
Caliber?
Gas system?
Shooting factory ammo, or reloads?
Try using an AGB and a JP-SCS, or even a Titanium BCG, to lower the amount of recoil
Thanks
 
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