Lol thats sig for you release a ton of guns recall half and stop supporting the other half. It seems like every one forgot about the bolt gun they released back around the mid 2000s that was exactly like the cross but it was a total dud. Cookie points to anyone who can remember what that gun was called.
- Thread starter oda175365
- Start date
Checked my rifle and the safety engages at about 60 degrees with what feels like a detent. It can still be pushed past that point to 90 degrees or if the bolt is opened it will move from 60 to 90.
Can’t honest remember if it was like that before the recall but probably would have noticed if it was.
Don’t think functionally it will make a difference to me but it would be interesting to see what Sig has to say about it. I believe the issue that caused the recall was do to a delayed fire on partial bolt lift after the trigger was pulled. Attempted to watch the video once but it was just too much of a beating to endure, so that may not be exactly right.
I registered for the recall back in November 2020 and just received two emails from Sig. the first with a Fed Ex ground tracking number for the return box and the second with explicit instructions on preparing rifle for shipment. Their email gave an estimate of 2-4 weeks for modification. Unfortunately, living in Alaska, that estimate may prove accurate including shipping.
So i spoke with Customer Service. I am going to be sending a video to them tonight detailing the issue with the safety. They said if my rifle needs to be sent back they will expedite the shipping overnight. I am in the same boat as you that it doesnt really affect the functionality for me. I need to work up a load for the cross before I send it back as I am bringing this to Wyoming for pdog hunting in June.
I will keep this thread up to date as to where I take this with Sig Customer Service.
My safety has been like that since I got it, there is a slight hangup between the two positions. I assumed it was some quirk with how the safety works, although it hasn't really bothered me or affected function. One of my ARs actually feels very similar.
Yeah, what ever the shipping time for Sig to get the box to you from New Hampshire, figure the same time for the rifle to get to Sig and again to get it back to you. They are taking 4-5 days for the actual recall work.
My safety was the standard 90 degree throw. I never noticed it hitting a dent like stop at 60 degrees. I should have my rifle back by Friday, so I’ll check it and let you know if it feels different post recall.
Update: I received my rifle back from Sig today. With shipping to the West Coast it took 24 days total, but only 4 for the Sig to do the recall.
The trigger module was swapped out, because my trigger adjustment mark was not there. I had asked for the old parts, but Sig no surprise did not return them.
It does appear the sear which is seen through the slot in the chassis below the bolt is different. The trigger after a small half turn adjustment does feel the same as it did prior to the return.
The safety if moved slowly from off to on with the bolt closed, does have a slight detent like feel (around 60 degrees) that was not noticeable prior to the recall.
If you move the safety normally, typical speed and effort after a shot, I really don’t notice the detent. It does go away completely with the bolt open. This is a non issue for me on my rifle. The safety can be re-engaged without any problem.
Last edited:
I have fairly mild loads, 40.8 gr of H4350 and tried 41.5 gr of RL 16. I don’t have a chrono, but based on what I am dialing and using a ballistic calculator. Around 2580 fps with H4350 and about 2600 fps with RL 16.
Got mine back- no noticeable difference in the trigger. Turnaround was about 10 days door to door. Looks like the rollers on the cocking piece/firing pin were changed to cylindrical rollers vs the ball shaped ones. I did notice a heavier trigger pull at first but a quick adjustment had it back to where it was before.
So here was the response to the safety:
Good Afternoon,
I heard back from our technicians and they explained to me that the safety lever takes a little more effort to use and if you don’t continue applying pressure it will get held up mid-way between the safety being on or off. This is something that will break in with more use of the safety selector but is a direct result of the new components post recall.
Actually after playing with it more and knowing to put a little more pressure, it doesn't seem like it will bother me at all.
Good Afternoon,
I heard back from our technicians and they explained to me that the safety lever takes a little more effort to use and if you don’t continue applying pressure it will get held up mid-way between the safety being on or off. This is something that will break in with more use of the safety selector but is a direct result of the new components post recall.
Actually after playing with it more and knowing to put a little more pressure, it doesn't seem like it will bother me at all.
Guess it‘s the price to pay for making the Cross idiot proof. Don’t normally use the safety much and when I do it won’t bother me either.
Thanks for taking the time to post their response. I updated my earlier post with my impression on the post recall safety. On my rifle the safety is not an issue at all.
Last edited:
No problem, just wanted to put it up in case other ppl experience the same thing. I am very happy with the rifle. Got rained out yesterday for doing my ladder test, but should be shooting it this weekend.
My 9 year old grandson just passed hunters education this week. I got him the Cross in 6.5 Creedmoor. The adjustability of this stock make it something I hope he can grow with. Any info on the box ammo to run in it?
That's the hard part.
Is there any available locally?
This year it may be more of a take what you can find and use it.
There was a discussion here recently that the Hornady ELD-X was producing poor results for hunting with some people.
Nothing local. Gunbroker pricing only.
I bought a box of the 143 gr ELD-X, because that was what the store had when I picked up my rifle last year. I haven't shot them, I started hand loading 6.5 CM right after I brought the rifle home. So I can't speak from experience on the ELD's, and I have not purchased any other boxed ammo. I have been shooting Berger 140 gr Hybrid target bullets with a G1 BC of .607, and they have worked fine at the range.
Generally 6.5 CM isn't picky, so I would just buy what you can find locally to break in the rifle. I don't think the ELD's are ok for hunting in CA, because of the 100% copper requirement, you may need to go with Barnes VOR-TX type bullets depending on local laws.
I’m in Wa. Bullet selection is open. I will pick up some boxes and see what it likes.
My 6.5 cm Cross rifle liked the 143 gr ELD-X accuracy wise. I haven’t dispatched any critters with it as of yet.
.02 cents
.02 cents
I’ve killed plenty of animals with the 143 eldx with my 6.5 PRC and 6.5-284. I’ve had nothing but good results with them. I’m running them between 2885-2960 depending on the gun and have killed deer and antelope with them between 220 yards out to 775 yards.
the last deer I killed was 220 and it was a straight blood bath behind him. He was bedded when I shot and went 10 yards or so before piling up.
I’m anxious to get my cross in and start loading for it. I think I’ll start out with the 140 eldm simply because I have a bunch of them and I intend to use this rifle on targets 99% of the time. If I was going to hunt with this rifle, I wouldn’t hesitate to use the eldx.
the last deer I killed was 220 and it was a straight blood bath behind him. He was bedded when I shot and went 10 yards or so before piling up.
I’m anxious to get my cross in and start loading for it. I think I’ll start out with the 140 eldm simply because I have a bunch of them and I intend to use this rifle on targets 99% of the time. If I was going to hunt with this rifle, I wouldn’t hesitate to use the eldx.
Attachments
Yeah, I've only really heard good reports from folks who've used the 143gr ELDx on meat, including a few elk. Freak issues can and do occurred when hunting, but I'd like to work up a load for my Sig if I can ever find the 143s in stock again.
So far I've found a few good loads with 140gr Gold Dots, they just seem to want to shoot in this rifle.
That's honestly about as well as I can do with a light-ish rifle off a bipod with any consistency (the fliers in the top targets probably weren't the rifle).
I did get my box, so yesterday was the last range trip before I have to strip everything off and send it in.
Those are good groups, thanks for posting the RL 16 loads. Looks like .5 gr is good for about 44fps. So my 41.5 gr estimated at 2600 fps is pretty close.
Just curious, is there any notable difference in barrel life with the same weight bullet at 2700 fps vs 2600 fps. Also are you running a muzzle break on the rifle?
I did a little searching and found this article that seems to support a lower node with less velocity can extend barrel life:
https://www.gunsandammo.com/editorial/extending-a-barrels-life/326755
Last edited:
One think to keep in mind, the creedmoor is not an overbore. Yes you will have conserve barrel life at 100fps but on the flip side, you can be shooting a 26 Nosler or 6.5 SAUM where your barrel life is drastically shortened!
I guess it’s all perspective!
Shooting 2700 FPS out of creed vs 3000 plus with the same bullet out of something else.
Yes, I've always read that higher pressures, larger powder loads and higher velocities will wear a given bore quicker. I'm not concerned about that here, I'd rather get the most out of the rifle and swap the barrel when I need to, it's a super easy task. 6.5 creed isn't a barrel burner compared to something like a 6mm Creed, or the aforementioned 26 Nos and I'm not going to toss the barrel at the point where you probably would a top tier match barrel. If I lose a couple hundred rounds barrel life from loading warmer, that's ok.
One of the neat things about this rifle is that it is designed to eat a steady diet of 80ksi Fury loads, so I'm only really limited by what my brass will take. I'd love to get some of that 3 part brass to try and form into Creedmoor and really see what this thing will do.
Yeah that makes sense if loading a bit warmer (3-5%) only decreases barrel life in a linear fashion say 100 rounds.
I guess it would come down to how much external ballistics are improved by the additional velocity.
In target shooting at mid to longer ranges of 1000 yards. I don’t worry much about dialing elevation. I care more about wind, so if the bullet moves 6” less going 3% faster, that would be a benefit.
I am going to try and load a few with 42.0 gr of RL 16, what is your CBTO length with the Berger 140 gr bullets?
Last edited:
Got mine back today. An 11 day turnaround including shipping both ways. Trigger is even better than before. Around a 2 lb pull and no longer has the over travel after the break. The safety now has an additional stop when going from fire to safe. This middle position doesn't allow the trigger to engage and there is no stop when going from safe to fire.
I checked my safety again for the midpoint catch before sending the rifle off, it must have smoothed out in use at some point (without me noticing) because it was no longer there. The trigger works fine for me, but it would be pretty nice if it came back with the overtravel dialed out. Mine shipped out Tuesday and should be back at the mother ship on Friday.
My 6.5 likes the HSM 140 berger ammo
I'm going to try and load some Hammer Absolute 109s and see how fast I can get them.
I’m curious how the hammers work out, keep us posted
What brake are you guys running on it.
I am still waiting for my nomad ti to come back. I have a dead air flash hider on it from another gun because I want to use the keymo mount once the ti comes back. Should I change it out for a brake ?
I am still waiting for my nomad ti to come back. I have a dead air flash hider on it from another gun because I want to use the keymo mount once the ti comes back. Should I change it out for a brake ?
I like the dead air xeno system for the weight and length.
I run a dead air micro brake, since my cross shares my nomad30 with my custom tikka, via keymo.
I finally got out and did barrel break in and a ladder test. Man this thing surprised the hell out of me accuracy wise. My upper node ended up being 41.5gr (h4350) with 139 scenar at 20 thou off the lands.
I was breaking in the barrel with 140 eldm and was printing consistent .5 - .75 moa.
I finally got out and did barrel break in and a ladder test. Man this thing surprised the hell out of me accuracy wise. My upper node ended up being 41.5gr (h4350) with 139 scenar at 20 thou off the lands.
I was breaking in the barrel with 140 eldm and was printing consistent .5 - .75 moa.
Nice shooting. And thanks USMc and baba.
You thinkrunning the flash hider I willl have some trouble with this shorter barrel. I will only shoot suppressed once the nomad ti gets out of jail. In the interim I will either shoot with the hider or go get a brake. Hate to spend more money on another muzzle device.
You thinkrunning the flash hider I willl have some trouble with this shorter barrel. I will only shoot suppressed once the nomad ti gets out of jail. In the interim I will either shoot with the hider or go get a brake. Hate to spend more money on another muzzle device.
I don’t have any issues running a YHM flash hider on my .308, without the can.
Thanks. I will go shoot it with the flash hider.
my hesitation simply because ammo is so expensive now. Hate to waste rounds
I use the Griffin Armament taper mount adapter in my Nomad, I have a minimalist brake on a few different rifles and move it around fairly often. Hopefully my Nomad Ti will be out of jail in a month or so to split duty.
Last edited:
Well boys the sig cross are back in the wild just picked up a 308 at a local shop and I can’t feel any difference from the pre recall creedmoor in the safe as far as the trigger feels the stock is definitely much tighter lock up
sig
Single-shot capable followers are in SIG OEM by Magpul mags (available from SIG website).
Thank you
Are you saying they sell just the follower? All I have seen is 5rd and 10rd magpul mags with the special follower. If you have a link, post it up plz.
No, magazines only, that I have seen.
And Sig, where the heck is the “First Lite” camo rifles?! For shits sake...
And Sig, where the heck is the “First Lite” camo rifles?! For shits sake...
Last edited:
Sig sells additional magazines with the orange follower. These are only available from the Sig web site, not through magpul directly. They are not selling just the follower to upgrade older magazines.
See post #1221 on page 25.
After a recent trip to the range I decided to clean and re-lube the bolt and striker rollers. Finished the bolt, was looking at the sear and decided to lube it as well. Used some grease that Geissele includes with his triggers but then thought perhaps I would see what Sig recommends and RTFM. Was surprised to see that they call for the use of a molybdenum disulfide based anti-seize lubricant. Hmmm, wasn’t to sure what that even is but was certain it most likely causes cancer and birth defects in the state of California.
Dug around in my tool chest and found an old tube of Extreme Pressure Anti-seize Engine Assembly Lube made by CRC. The label said it contained moly, graphite, lithium and sure enough was capable of killing and maiming Californians. I thought what the hell it’s black and slippery so went ahead and gave it a try. The manual also calls for applying a coat of the anti-seize to the entire striker blade, so I wiped the oil off and replaced it with the assembly lube.
Was amazed at how much smoother the bolt cycled after using this stuff. Don’t know what the rest of you all are using for lubing the striker assembly but I’m glad I finally took the time to read the owners manual and stumbled upon the engine assembly lube.
Dug around in my tool chest and found an old tube of Extreme Pressure Anti-seize Engine Assembly Lube made by CRC. The label said it contained moly, graphite, lithium and sure enough was capable of killing and maiming Californians. I thought what the hell it’s black and slippery so went ahead and gave it a try. The manual also calls for applying a coat of the anti-seize to the entire striker blade, so I wiped the oil off and replaced it with the assembly lube.
Was amazed at how much smoother the bolt cycled after using this stuff. Don’t know what the rest of you all are using for lubing the striker assembly but I’m glad I finally took the time to read the owners manual and stumbled upon the engine assembly lube.
Last edited:
If you remove the cover on the bottom of the stock it’s setup to mount a pic rail so you could use a rail mounted bag rider.
