I haven't. They came and went before I could do it. But there are a few left, so Im going to try and weigh a few tomorrow.
- Thread starter oda175365
- Start date
Managed to get back out to the range today to try and mostly finish break-in. Between last weekend and this weekend, I ordered two different types of copper remover, Bore Tech and Sweet's. Sweets seems to work more quickly but I stuck with the Bore Tech as there's no smell.
I now have 75 rounds down the CarbonSix barrel and I've been following their break-in procedure.
Today I finished up 65 rounds of PMC X-TAC and I shot 10 additional rounds of a plinker hand load I have that produces sub-MOA in my gas gun.
Groups were sort of all over the place although my initial four volleys were almost through the same hole. Each time I cleaned, they'd sort of open up again and at this point I was cleaning every 5 rounds, then 10. I started to notice they'd begin to group after one or two down the barrel. So the last strings were 10 shot groups, cleaned after the 1st ten and I then moved on to my hand loads, no cleaning as shots were grouping. I shot without the suppressor for most of the day as I wanted to eliminate any variables. I used the OSS muzzle brake which is extremely effective as the gun likes to jump otherwise. Pretty much remained on target and was very controllable.
Now the hand loads are nothing more than Hornady 150gr. bullets (not even the match, just the cheap ones!) over 4064 in LC brass. I didn't have my scope dialed in for them so I threw on the suppressor. I took five shots to somewhat dial in the scope then moved over to my last clean spot on the target. I have one flyer but it is what it is. I could have likely shot better but given the heat, the mirage through the scope, etc...just glad they're starting to group! I have another 200 rounds of PMC inbound that I'll use to finish break-in and clean the barrel every 25 rounds or so. So the last 30 rounds, no cleaning.
Off topic, I also took my 300 blackout gas gun to shoot my first batch of supers off my Dillon press. It has a PA 1-6 with a 300 blackout reticle. The difference in glass quality between it and my Cronus is rather remarkable, to the point I hated looking through the PA scope. And the Cronus eye box was far more forgiving to boot. I didn't rake the Cronus out to it's full magnification due to the heat and was mostly shooting at 10X or 12X. At 10X, it's a bit hard to see the center dot so I went to 12 and put up with things jumping around due to the mirage effect. Bring on winter, enough of this 100 degree shit.
I now have 75 rounds down the CarbonSix barrel and I've been following their break-in procedure.
Today I finished up 65 rounds of PMC X-TAC and I shot 10 additional rounds of a plinker hand load I have that produces sub-MOA in my gas gun.
Groups were sort of all over the place although my initial four volleys were almost through the same hole. Each time I cleaned, they'd sort of open up again and at this point I was cleaning every 5 rounds, then 10. I started to notice they'd begin to group after one or two down the barrel. So the last strings were 10 shot groups, cleaned after the 1st ten and I then moved on to my hand loads, no cleaning as shots were grouping. I shot without the suppressor for most of the day as I wanted to eliminate any variables. I used the OSS muzzle brake which is extremely effective as the gun likes to jump otherwise. Pretty much remained on target and was very controllable.
Now the hand loads are nothing more than Hornady 150gr. bullets (not even the match, just the cheap ones!) over 4064 in LC brass. I didn't have my scope dialed in for them so I threw on the suppressor. I took five shots to somewhat dial in the scope then moved over to my last clean spot on the target. I have one flyer but it is what it is. I could have likely shot better but given the heat, the mirage through the scope, etc...just glad they're starting to group! I have another 200 rounds of PMC inbound that I'll use to finish break-in and clean the barrel every 25 rounds or so. So the last 30 rounds, no cleaning.
Off topic, I also took my 300 blackout gas gun to shoot my first batch of supers off my Dillon press. It has a PA 1-6 with a 300 blackout reticle. The difference in glass quality between it and my Cronus is rather remarkable, to the point I hated looking through the PA scope. And the Cronus eye box was far more forgiving to boot. I didn't rake the Cronus out to it's full magnification due to the heat and was mostly shooting at 10X or 12X. At 10X, it's a bit hard to see the center dot so I went to 12 and put up with things jumping around due to the mirage effect. Bring on winter, enough of this 100 degree shit.
Stock Cross 6.5 18" here. When new this had the misaligned hand guard which appears to be a common issue but also simple to address.
After 3 range trips and checking the scope and scope mount screws few times I have confirmed that this has very noticeable cold bore shift. I'm seeing impacts shifting towards 1 o'clock by 2" at 100 yards. This does seem to "reset" if I let the barrel cool down 20-30 minutes in shade.
Barrel and barrel extension nuts seem snug. Are there any other basic things to check? Is such amount of shift caused by the barrel steel alone or different thermal expansion rates between the steel barrel and aluminum receiver?
Question to owners of CarbonSix barrels - are you seeing POI shifts over strings of 3-5 slow shots?
After 3 range trips and checking the scope and scope mount screws few times I have confirmed that this has very noticeable cold bore shift. I'm seeing impacts shifting towards 1 o'clock by 2" at 100 yards. This does seem to "reset" if I let the barrel cool down 20-30 minutes in shade.
Barrel and barrel extension nuts seem snug. Are there any other basic things to check? Is such amount of shift caused by the barrel steel alone or different thermal expansion rates between the steel barrel and aluminum receiver?
Question to owners of CarbonSix barrels - are you seeing POI shifts over strings of 3-5 slow shots?
Went back out with more PMC X-Tac today as I want to make sure the barrel is broken in prior to developing a load. New lot number, the velocity was all over the place. The last lot topped out at about 2820 on a 100 degree day, I was hitting 2887 today and it was 15 degrees cooler out. My minimum was 130fps less so definitely not a consistent cartridge. I've definitely had better from PMC. Cases looked fine.
Shots were all over the place, wasn't really grouping but with that sort of extreme spread, I wasn't surprised. I did clean the barrel thoroughly (for the last time) and it took about 10 rounds before things started to shrink. I shot 25 rounds of the PMC, none of which grouped well.
I then pulled out five rounds of a hand load, same plinker AR10 hand load I've been using, 150gr. cheap Hornady bullet over 4046 with LC brass. Those five grounds grouped about an MOA. Velocity is about 150fps lower on average than the x-tac.
I decide to shoot 25 more rounds of the PMC and call it quits. I load up the x-tac and they immediately start to group pretty tight. Completely dumbfounded. Dunno if that batch was just more consistent (it did have a lower SD) or somehow the hand loads with 4046 somehow altered the carbon deposits inside barrel? Such a rabbit hole.
Going to start working up loads with match grade bullets and see what the gun is capable of.
Shots were all over the place, wasn't really grouping but with that sort of extreme spread, I wasn't surprised. I did clean the barrel thoroughly (for the last time) and it took about 10 rounds before things started to shrink. I shot 25 rounds of the PMC, none of which grouped well.
I then pulled out five rounds of a hand load, same plinker AR10 hand load I've been using, 150gr. cheap Hornady bullet over 4046 with LC brass. Those five grounds grouped about an MOA. Velocity is about 150fps lower on average than the x-tac.
I decide to shoot 25 more rounds of the PMC and call it quits. I load up the x-tac and they immediately start to group pretty tight. Completely dumbfounded. Dunno if that batch was just more consistent (it did have a lower SD) or somehow the hand loads with 4046 somehow altered the carbon deposits inside barrel? Such a rabbit hole.
Going to start working up loads with match grade bullets and see what the gun is capable of.
Here is what I need from Sig in the "next" Cross...
- 20 inch Carbon barreled 6.5 Creedmoor or an 18 inch 308
- Handguard from the Born and Raised rifle (integrated arca) but in carbon would be better
- Thumb safety/rest from the PRS
But I would settle for...
- Actual replacement barrels
- Extensions
- Aftermarket handguards with the Arca, thumb safeties, bolt knobs, integrated scope mounts
- Factory duracoat colors
- 20 inch Carbon barreled 6.5 Creedmoor or an 18 inch 308
- Handguard from the Born and Raised rifle (integrated arca) but in carbon would be better
- Thumb safety/rest from the PRS
But I would settle for...
- Actual replacement barrels
- Extensions
- Aftermarket handguards with the Arca, thumb safeties, bolt knobs, integrated scope mounts
- Factory duracoat colors
Joined the club. 6.5 Creed. Real happy so far. Anyone found a backpack that this will drop into with the stock folded? Eberlestock Big Trick looks like it would work, but pricey. Thanks.
Just checking back in. The 16" 308win Cross has no problem hitting 2/3 ipsc at 940yds. I need to bring the machete up to clear the lanes for shooting further. But dialed 9.3mil and vertical was very consistent at range.
Overall still pretty happy with my Cross. It's definitely not intended to be a long range bench gun, but it's good enough.
I'm not sure if I'll get a chance to hunt deer or elk with mine yet, but I have started working with my 9yo on getting comfortable incase he gets to go out on a elk hunt this year.
Overall still pretty happy with my Cross. It's definitely not intended to be a long range bench gun, but it's good enough.
I'm not sure if I'll get a chance to hunt deer or elk with mine yet, but I have started working with my 9yo on getting comfortable incase he gets to go out on a elk hunt this year.
So, probably fixing to buy one of these in a 16" .308 Win in the First Lite Cipher camo for a compact deer hunting/truck rig.
Can anyone sum-up what to look for, to ensure that it's the newest "updated" version of the rifle with the fixed items that people were bitching about in there before? I just need to know what to look for in person at the store, to ensure it's the newest version, not the old version that had a few "issues" that folks were talking about in here.
Can anyone sum-up what to look for, to ensure that it's the newest "updated" version of the rifle with the fixed items that people were bitching about in there before? I just need to know what to look for in person at the store, to ensure it's the newest version, not the old version that had a few "issues" that folks were talking about in here.
Depends on the problems you are referring to. The lop adjustment was fixed by adding holes instead of using slots in the prior models. I have slots and have not experienced any issues with slipping.
Then there are the sloppy hinges that were reported in the more recent models. To be fair Sig was replacing them so might have got a bad batch that slipped thru QC.
Finally the short thread protector that people complain about I couldn't care less about. But afaik has been consistent from first to last run.
Then there are the sloppy hinges that were reported in the more recent models. To be fair Sig was replacing them so might have got a bad batch that slipped thru QC.
Finally the short thread protector that people complain about I couldn't care less about. But afaik has been consistent from first to last run.
See post # 2362, just scroll up a bit. Look at the length of pull adjustment. It seems on the latest version, they're holes where the previous version was two long serrated slots.
If there's an issue with the slotted design, will Sig send you an updated replacement version at no cost? Never dealt with their CS before, so just curious.
Sloppy hinges, since they're replacing them at no cost, that gives me some peace of mind on that.
The short thread protector means really nothing to me either, as it will most likely be getting a JMac Custom 2-chamber or Dead Air 3-Chamber KeyMo brake on it to cut down on blast baffle erosion, and make swapping cans for testing much easier. And if I do decide to go direct-thread, you can buy custom-length thread protectors online for like $10-12. That's not a deal-breaker for me either.
So, really, the loose hinges and the LOP adjustment are the only things to really check for when buying (other than all the normal things to check before accepting it).
Yeah, the one I handled at the store last year was REALLY nice, and locked up solid. Kind of wish I had bought that one, as the trigger felt amazing, the stock was solid, and the hinge was solid with no play. Plus, it was back when the camo ones were only $1,599...Now they're $1,799.
Has anyone run clip on thermals or night vision devices on these? Looks like only way is to use a long mlok rail…seems not the best of ideas?
This was what I tried. It worked, but definitely not ideal. I finally got the quick release mount with the pictail attachment. Brings the clip on down to around 1.5" center height.
I'll play around with it again and it should line-up with straight 1.5" high rings.
I also used a Trijicon ReapIR on it. Which worked great.
I'll play around with it again and it should line-up with straight 1.5" high rings.
I also used a Trijicon ReapIR on it. Which worked great.
Nx8? That's a setup I'm tempted to go with for a factory do all rifle
Yes. Works perfect for what I do with it. It’s the 2.5x20
Awesome. That's the one I'd go with. Now to decide on SFP or ffp. Mostly hunting and known range fun
I've got a Burris clip on. I run my scope pretty low, so to get the thermal as low as possible I'm using a low-profile M-lok picatinny rail from Arisaka. I don't really like the tiny bearing surfaces of M-lok for anything that holds weight and has to deal with recoil, so instead of the standard M-lok nuts I use much larger backing plates for the thermal mount and the bottom pic rail that I use to mount the rifle to a tripod.
Anyone else notice this Cross barrel replacement website?
straightjacketarmory.com
Sig Cross Pre-fit barrel - Straight Jacket Armory
Match grade Replacement barrels for your Sig Cross rifle are here from the premier shop for match grade Pre fit barrels, Custom CNC cut barrels
straightjacketarmory.com Proof is also about to release prefits, they are just waiting on extentions from sig, last I was toldAnyone else notice this Cross barrel replacement website?
Sig Cross Pre-fit barrel - Straight Jacket Armory
Match grade Replacement barrels for your Sig Cross rifle are here from the premier shop for match grade Pre fit barrels, Custom CNC cut barrels
Would a 6.5 prc even be possible in the Cross?
A 22 GT Cross barrel would be super cool, but I really don't want to have to pull the barrel extension off my 6.5, so I can easily swap back and forth.Anyone else notice this Cross barrel replacement website?
Sig Cross Pre-fit barrel - Straight Jacket Armory
Match grade Replacement barrels for your Sig Cross rifle are here from the premier shop for match grade Pre fit barrels, Custom CNC cut barrels
Hopefully the come out with reasonably light steel profiles, the Cross doesn't really need a truck axle to weighing it down in the general-rifle application most seem to be using it in.
Personally, I'd love to see a prefit 16" CF 1:7 twist .25 CM barrel for the Cross. Would be an awesome hunting rig with the new Berger 133's and 135's. Or some Blackjack 131 ACE's if they're even still in business. 
I sold my Sig Cross before I could try it, but 99% sure it'd fit in this...
Sorry if this has been posted before, came across it moments ago when looking for Cross barrel extensions. No affiliation with them, I already have the Schnee's carbon fiber barrel but they do have an interesting video on that page on the manufacturing process.
straightjacketarmory.com
Sig Cross Pre-fit barrel - Straight Jacket Armory
Match grade Replacement barrels for your Sig Cross rifle are here from the premier shop for match grade Pre fit barrels, Custom CNC cut barrels
straightjacketarmory.com 
Sorry if this has been posted before, came across it moments ago when looking for Cross barrel extensions. No affiliation with them, I already have the Schnee's carbon fiber barrel but they do have an interesting video on that page on the manufacturing process.
Sig Cross Pre-fit barrel - Straight Jacket Armory
Match grade Replacement barrels for your Sig Cross rifle are here from the premier shop for match grade Pre fit barrels, Custom CNC cut barrels
Good looks, might order one in 6 creed!
I don’t like the contours though but hopefully they come out with more later
Schnee's is still working on the aftermarket barrel extensions. I think things will start to take off once they've readily available.
We can do one, just haven't had anyone that wanted to order one. Would be a sweet round.
What about a 416R (brushed/bead blasted finish) 5R rifled 16.1" 1" straight bull taper .25 Creedmoor 40º with a 1:7 twist? That would be one wicked little whitetail and antelope round. Also, LR targets with the Berger 133's and 135's. Talk about flat-shooting!
Has anyone heard back from Tooley? I tried reaching him in January and June and got no reply back. Worth keeping on trying or wait for a Proof? I get more heat-induced stringing than I like, even after Sig replaced a really ugly barrel. (They both shift multiple MOA across 10 rounds)
Getting more enjoyment from my 6.5CM since adding a Resonator 2. No load development done. Just went with my existing load that I was shooting in a Bergara HMR, being the 143 ELD-X over RL26. Should be right around 2,650FPS in the 18" Cross. Shot it some at 300yds this weekend.
We hung up a new 400yds gong a few weeks back and I told Dad to break it in right. His cold bore shot was right on the money. It's an easy rifle to work with, especially for a hunting rig that you can have some fun with also.
Seems like it's been hit or miss reaching him. I have one of his Cross barrels, although I got it early last year. If he was easier to get in touch with, I'd suggest getting one from him. With the difficulties of late, I'd suggest other avenues.
Curious those hand-loading for the .308 version...are you typically loading to 2.800 or whatever the factory recommendation is for that bullet or have you seen benefits loading to mag length? I have not done any seating depth tests yet. I ask as it's such a long jump to the lands on the .308 version, it's more like loading for an AR in that regard. No way you can load just off the lands as it won't fit in the mags.
Seeing 2900+FPS with 155gr. Sierra Palmas and 155 Hornady match over Varget with the CarbonSix 20" barrel and suppressor with very light pressure signs likely due to too much headspace. I underestimated the chamber size thinking it was three thousandth's smaller than it actually was. Went from once fired 1.625 to twice fired 1.628 on my comparator. Primers were perfect but had very slight ejector mark likely due to case slamming back into the bolt.
Seeing 2900+FPS with 155gr. Sierra Palmas and 155 Hornady match over Varget with the CarbonSix 20" barrel and suppressor with very light pressure signs likely due to too much headspace. I underestimated the chamber size thinking it was three thousandth's smaller than it actually was. Went from once fired 1.625 to twice fired 1.628 on my comparator. Primers were perfect but had very slight ejector mark likely due to case slamming back into the bolt.
I’m loading 168 grain SMKs at 0.010 off the lands and they still fit in the mag. Using the factory 16” barrel. Tried a hand full of seating depths but the closest was the most accurate.
I'll try loading longer and see if that changes things. Using the Hornady OAL gauge with a 200gr. ELDX, longest bullet I have, the bullet is touching the lands at 2.924" on my calipers which is well over max mag length for the Magpul AICS. Won't fit, not that I'd load to that length anyway. I believe 2.865" or something close is max length. For some reason I always thought a good target was .002 off the lands. Having loaded for nothing but gas guns, I've never taken the jump into consideration.
Managed to score some Sierra 169's so I'll try loading a bit longer with those and experiment a bit more with the 155's as well. The Hornady faired much better than the Sierra Palmas and they're less expensive.
Managed to score some Sierra 169's so I'll try loading a bit longer with those and experiment a bit more with the 155's as well. The Hornady faired much better than the Sierra Palmas and they're less expensive.
Just for others who may hand load, I measured jump using a few different bullets. Again, this is with the Schee's 20" .308 barrel. I'm not going to list numbers as it'll vary from gun to gun and I'm assuming will also change with head spacing. My gunsmith said it came in on the tight end of things but within specification. On my Hornady comparator, with my calipers, I'm now seeing 1.628" on second firing cases. Conversely, my POF Revolution DI is seeing 1.636".
So here are the bullets where I can get the jump to the lands at an acceptable level (.020 or less) and still be under 2.865 OAL or slightly under.
-Hornady Match 155gr. BTHP #3039
-Hornady Match ELDM 155gr. #30313
-Hornady 180Gr. SST #30702
-Hornady 150Gr. SST #30302
-Sierra 155gr. HPBT "Palma" #2156
*Assuming the 168SMK's would work based on Snafu's post.*
What doesn't work:
-Hornady 200gr. ELD-X, ogive is too far back. I can't get these to group decently less than an MOA in my AR10 either so they don't like a long jump.
I have the Sierra 169 grain HPBT's on the way as well, hopefully those'll work as I purchased a lot of 500. I have a few others I haven't measured yet but will do so when I have time and update this post.
So here are the bullets where I can get the jump to the lands at an acceptable level (.020 or less) and still be under 2.865 OAL or slightly under.
-Hornady Match 155gr. BTHP #3039
-Hornady Match ELDM 155gr. #30313
-Hornady 180Gr. SST #30702
-Hornady 150Gr. SST #30302
-Sierra 155gr. HPBT "Palma" #2156
*Assuming the 168SMK's would work based on Snafu's post.*
What doesn't work:
-Hornady 200gr. ELD-X, ogive is too far back. I can't get these to group decently less than an MOA in my AR10 either so they don't like a long jump.
I have the Sierra 169 grain HPBT's on the way as well, hopefully those'll work as I purchased a lot of 500. I have a few others I haven't measured yet but will do so when I have time and update this post.
Will be interested in how the 169s work out for you. Just about out of 168s so maybe it’s time for a change.
theres other carbon barrels out there... and they shoot great 
could probably spin one up. One problem that comes up is with using heavier contour barrels. When I put my sendero contour carbon barrel on, it left almost zero room for adding mlok accessories. I have to grind down every screw. The hand guard is just too small inside diameter. A straight taper would be even worse.
The only thing MLok i'd consider putting on the end, is a bipod, but other than that, probably won't be using one though, as I mostly hunt out of shooting houses and tree stands.
I just got my Schnees .308 20" barrel in this week and got it installed over the weekend. I like the look and balance of the 20" and am excited to shoot it. The Smith had to cut down the screws for an mlok qd sling mount. The bipod mount was OK.
I have Magpul rail covers and hand stop fitted to mine. I find the rail covers give me a better grip and the hand stop gives shot stability when shooting out of a high seat. I push the stop against the high seat bar for extra stability and if the bar is exposed metal, it prevents noise or scratches on the hand guard.
Anyone shooting the PRS version?
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