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Night Vision NOX-18 Review

To e
Using a different mount is not going to change things. In this case, the distance between eyes is a defining factor. In other words, for comfortable viewing, the distance between optical axis of the NOX and PVS-14 has to be fixed and equal to the distance between centers of your eye pupils. I hope this makes sense.
To expound, the battery compartment is in control of this relationship - you can’t get them close enough without swapping.

That said, the rifle mount they picked is as light as they get - which is heavy for helmet mounted NODS. I was very pleased to remove it and save that weight for a 99% helmet mounted rig.
 
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To e

To expound, the battery compartment is in control of this relationship - you can’t get them close enough without swapping.

That said, the rifle mount they picked is as light as they get - which is heavy for helmet mounted NODS. I was very pleased to remove it and save that weight for a 99% helmet mounted rig.
I removed mine for now too. I does make it lighter feeling. Its a great mount as well, it went back to zero the couple times i dismounted and remounted it.
 
How about swapping the dovetail, then using a dovetail weapon mount like the Wilcox flip-to-side? This may require a different or modified dovetail, setup to use both screws in the rail side, and the user would need to enter the menu to swap the orientation so the reticle can be used. The issue would seem to be using the single 1/4-20 screw under recoil. The dovetail system itself should be fine, the M300W mounts that way, it just a matter of a secure mount. I'm sure I could mill a replacement of the weapon mount interface and then secure a dovetail to it. In fact, someone should suggest that to N-Vision.
 
How about swapping the dovetail, then using a dovetail weapon mount like the Wilcox flip-to-side? This may require a different or modified dovetail, setup to use both screws in the rail side, and the user would need to enter the menu to swap the orientation so the reticle can be used. The issue would seem to be using the single 1/4-20 screw under recoil. The dovetail system itself should be fine, the M300W mounts that way, it just a matter of a secure mount. I'm sure I could mill a replacement of the weapon mount interface and then secure a dovetail to it. In fact, someone should suggest that to N-Vision.

That’s a pretty strong suggestion. Good thinking.

I’d also love to see a new dovetail to rail mount interface that clamps the dovetail and is simpler-less expensive than the Wilcox.

Bobro uses a compression spring on the pic portion of their mount that could also be used on a navy style dovetail. That way there would be no slop.
 
How about swapping the dovetail, then using a dovetail weapon mount like the Wilcox flip-to-side? This may require a different or modified dovetail, setup to use both screws in the rail side, and the user would need to enter the menu to swap the orientation so the reticle can be used. The issue would seem to be using the single 1/4-20 screw under recoil. The dovetail system itself should be fine, the M300W mounts that way, it just a matter of a secure mount. I'm sure I could mill a replacement of the weapon mount interface and then secure a dovetail to it. In fact, someone should suggest that to N-Vision.
That's an interesting idea. @Max_R thoughts?
 
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That's an interesting idea. @Max_R thoughts?
It's an interesting idea but, unfortunately, it's not going to work. The "dovetail" side of the Nox is not strong enough to be used for weapon mounting. It is one of the compromises that we had to make very early in the design phase, trading size and weight for the ability to have a weapon mount on both sides of the Nox.
 
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It's an interesting idea but, unfortunately, it's not going to work. The "dovetail" side of the Nox is not strong enough to be used for weapon mounting. It is one of the compromises that we had to make very early in the design phase, trading size and weight for the ability to have a weapon mount on both sides of the Nox.
I think what they are saying is make a dovetail that goes on BOTH sides. including the one that has the weapon mount today.

Then you clamp the dovetail that’s on the weapon mount side but can still helmet mount.

You could make the dovetail on the weapon mount side with a notch that only allows the weapon rated side to click into the mount to avoid damage, while not affecting helmet mounting compatibility.
 
I think what they are saying is make a dovetail that goes on BOTH sides. including the one that has the weapon mount today.

Then you clamp the dovetail that’s on the weapon mount side but can still helmet mount.

You could make the dovetail on the weapon mount side with a notch that only allows the weapon rated side to click into the mount to avoid damage, while not affecting helmet mounting compatibility.
Maybe I misunderstood. However, the dovetail, in general, is not a good weapon mounting solution. It is OK for SkeetIR (clip-on does not require perfect alignment or repeatability), but I don't think that it's going to work for a weapon sight. Return to zero may be / will be a major problem.
 
Maybe I misunderstood. However, the dovetail, in general, is not a good weapon mounting solution. It is OK for SkeetIR (clip-on does not require perfect alignment or repeatability), but I don't think that it's going to work for a weapon sight. Return to zero may be / will be a major problem.
I have a solution to that, and understand from using the Wilcox/etc in this space EXACTLY what you mean.

In the mount design I propose, the dovetail no longer slides into the front. What happens instead is you cantilever it on just like you would when mounting a pica tinny unit. Then, as you close the mount locking lever it forces the unit to the opposite side AND forward at the same time. A spring loading system puts substantial pressure on the dovetail to lock it into place regardless of tolerances of the dovetail, and it will then lock up ROCK solid and return to zero.
 
I have a solution to that, and understand from using the Wilcox/etc in this space EXACTLY what you mean.

In the mount design I propose, the dovetail no longer slides into the front. What happens instead is you cantilever it on just like you would when mounting a pica tinny unit. Then, as you close the mount locking lever it forces the unit to the opposite side AND forward at the same time. A spring loading system puts substantial pressure on the dovetail to lock it into place regardless of tolerances of the dovetail, and it will then lock up ROCK solid and return to zero.
This may work. Something to think about :)
 
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Something like that may work. Nox is going to move down 1/4" or so while installed on a helmet mount. This may present a problem if dual-mounted because it's not going to be leveled with PVS-14 or another Nox. However, if the Nox is used by itself, this can be a valuable solution for users who want to have it mounted on the left eye + have the ability to switch to the weapon sight mode quickly.
 
Just picked one of these up.. and I'm impressed to say the least. The image is smoother than the earlier Halo 25/50 LR units that I had over a year ago, and the housing is fantastic. I compared it to the MH25 and the FH25R.. and it held its own. This is going to make a WAY better helmet mounted unit for sure. Anyway, here's some pictures for you degenerates
 

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Taking pictures through the eye piece is notably better than still shots with the unit itself.
20210916_225231.jpg
 

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What are you running for a counterweight? I’ve got a 1lb on mine with the nox and a 14 but it’s still pulling it down in front. I’m thinking about casting some additional lead to put in my pouch back there.
 
Just the 2 batteries. 15.8oz. If you haven't taken it off the weapon mount weighs quite a bit. Also if your running plugged in go down to cr123 or no battery. Stripped down the 18 weighs about the same as a 14.

Main thing I'd recommend though is get amp arms for your hearing protection. Significantly changes the balance and stability. There's adapters coming out to run the arms with cheaper muffs if you don't wanna do the whole kit. Major difference in comfort.
 
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What are you running for a counterweight? I’ve got a 1lb on mine with the nox and a 14 but it’s still pulling it down in front. I’m thinking about casting some additional lead to put in my pouch back there.
I run a 10k battery pack and a bunch of aa batteries. I have had it balanced, but then used some batteries and regretted that almost immediately. Tire tape weights for the win bro. Cheap and effective.
 
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U can get the two Nox 18 to come together with NO cant......u have to remove the bolts that hold the dovetails into the D14 and put back smaller shaft bolts..this allows the D14 dovetails to spread about 1/16" wider per side where they mount on the D14 as seen in pics.......this brings the units parallel to the D14 and the screens become ONE with NO CANT....just get good grade bolts and locking nuts .....and yes the controls have to b on the inside batteries outside to make it work....Good Luck
 

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U can get the two Nox 18 to come together with NO cant......u have to remove the bolts that hold the dovetails into the D14 and put back smaller shaft bolts..this allows the D14 dovetails to spread about 1/16" wider per side where they mount on the D14 as seen in pics.......this brings the units parallel to the D14 and the screens become ONE with NO CANT....just get good grade bolts and locking nuts .....and yes the controls have to b on the inside batteries outside to make it work....Good Luck
^^^awesome post!

Would you be able to post some specific thread and length measurements and possibly a source, please?
 
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^^^awesome post!

Would you be able to post some specific thread and length measurements and possibly a source, please?
all u have to do is take the bolts from the D14 to a hardware store and get stainless minimum or grade 8 if they have them........BUT.......i dont know the sizes.......BUT...all u have to do is match the new bolt thread size in diameter to the D14 bolts threaded portion only that u removed then obviously the same length and a locking nut to match it......its a cake walk........Good Luck
 
Can anyone compare these to the MH25 for pure helmet mounted use? They seem larger in size and maybe a bit more difficult to fit on a bridge?
 
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Can anyone compare these to the MH25 for pure helmet mounted use? They seem larger in size and maybe a bit more difficult to fit on a bridge?
Sure can. My buddy has a bridge mounted MH 25 and I have the Nox 18. The Nox is much better for helmet mounting as it's a true 1x optical mag (as opposed to the MH25), therefore giving you depth perception. The Nox is larger (and heavier) than the MH25, but it makes for a much better helmet mounted unit.

The image for the Nox gives a more even contrast distribution (the MH25 over saturates the image with contrast even on the lowest setting for contrast when looking at a big empty field) and the image is more "realistic" per say (reminds me of a white phosphor PVS 14 than a thermal).

Both are good units, but the Nox to my eye (having owned both units) is better... let's just say I still have the Nox and have since sold the MH25.
 
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Can anyone compare these to the MH25 for pure helmet mounted use? They seem larger in size and maybe a bit more difficult to fit on a bridge?
If I am correct most people add a PVS14 eye piece to the MH25 to make it better. So add that cost in.
 
If I am correct most people add a PVS14 eye piece to the MH25 to make it better. So add that cost in.
Yeah that eye piece is a necessary upgrade for sure... the factory eye piece is straight trash. Even with the eye piece added on, the Nox is larger. However, even though its another $1400, the Nox is still a better more well rounded unit with a better image.

Where the MH25 wins though is PID, as the 1280 HD display allows for the MH25 to handle better digital magnifications before pixelating out. But still as a helmet mounted unit for walking, the Nox wins.
 
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Great feedback. Followup question, what's the smallest IPD you can get two Nox units to achieve on a D14 bridge?
 
They pretty much touch no matter what. The fix above will level the screen if that's an issue for you but I don't think it really gets them closer together. This might have some kind of potential but I don't have the bits to make it work and since I won't run them doubled up much I don't wanna through $ at it.

20210920_073653.jpg
 
I guess I was just hoping someone could measure with them touching. Would hate to invest 13k in this and find out they are still farther apart than the 62mm between my eyes.
 
They pretty much touch no matter what. The fix above will level the screen if that's an issue for you but I don't think it really gets them closer together. This might have some kind of potential but I don't have the bits to make it work and since I won't run them doubled up much I don't wanna through $ at it.

View attachment 7712132
Thats a dual j arm setup? How did you accomplish this?
 
I guess I was just hoping someone could measure with them touching. Would hate to invest 13k in this and find out they are still farther apart than the 62mm between my eyes.
I'd help you but I don't have them set up that way anymore and I'm more tape measure speed than caliper speed. Honestly you'd be better off with an 18 and a high spec wp 14 or a cheap wp 14, 18, and 35 for your rifle.

Eta if your buying that much gear I'd give jrh or strictly offensive kit a call. They might be able to put together a package deal and save you some $.
 
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Between the 2 holes for the weapon mount there's a hole that's threaded like a pvs14.
There is???? When i contacted mod armory and nvision, they said there was nothing for a j arm. I had to buy a dovetail model vs the lightweight. Did nvision recently make changes to the nox to fit this????
 
I screwed it onto my Mod Armory jarm as well as the pvs14 arms for my d14. I was just messing around but it seemed to screw in tight. I can double check when I get home. One of those 18s is brand new but we've had the other one for awhile. It does move it back further towards your face. That's an issue with my rhino2/pvs15 socket but it might work with one of those wilcox helmet mounts that look longer.

Eta I don't think it would work on the lightweight. The hole threaded pvs style isn't going to line up with the one on the 14. If I remembered right the rear hole of the weapons mount is where the dovetail goes so using the pvs hole would push the nox eyepiece back further than your 14.
 
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I screwed it onto my Mod Armory jarm as well as the pvs14 arms for my d14. I was just messing around but it seemed to screw in tight. I can double check when I get home. One of those 18s is brand new but we've had the other one for awhile. It does move it back further towards your face. That's an issue with my rhino2/pvs15 socket but it might work with one of those wilcox helmet mounts that look longer.

Eta I don't think it would work on the lightweight. The hole threaded pvs style isn't going to line up with the one on the 14. If I remembered right the rear hole of the weapons mount is where the dovetail goes so using the pvs hole would push the nox eyepiece back further than your 14.
Ah, now i see. Dual nox is ok, but not paired to a pvs. Makes sense.
 
Another picture for you guys.... but in poor thermal conditions. It's currently 39⁰ F in my area, 96% humidity (quite rare up here) and has been raining all day, but yet, the Nox still prevails. Feast your eyes gentleman.

Compared here is the FH25R in about the same location and with comparable (well as best as I could get it) settings.

Bluish hued image is the Nox, lighter colored image is from the FH25R.
 

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Between the 2 holes for the weapon mount there's a hole that's threaded like a pvs14.
Fucking-A you rock dude!

At the risk of pissing on the cornflakes of some thin-skinned expert with a degree in thermowhateverthefuck, cause vendors and shit......

I guess it takes that extra level of "adapt-improvise-overcome" to make shit that isn't supposed to work, according to the engineering department, work in real life.

beer-mug_1f37a.png
cheers brother.
 
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I know this is an old thread but I’m looking at picking up a nox 18 for helmet mounted scanning. However I often drive my buggie around my property and I’m trying to determine if this unit could be used similar to a pvs14 for night driving and navigation. There’s no windshield so no worries there. Mostly interested in knowing if the image latency, field of view, refresh rate, and clarity make it useable to drive a buggie at sensible speeds at night (around 15-20mph tops). 90% of the time will be used to navigate trails on my property I know extremely well but may have a trip or two to some acreage I’m less familiar with.

I’m trying to avoid buying both a PVS14 (had one in the past and honestly was not impressed at all compared to the detection and detail from thermal) and nox and would rather put the money toward the nox. I have a Halo LR on my rifle and a pulsar axion 30 I use for handheld but we all know they are kind of shitty. I generally give it to my friend to use while I use my LR to scan.

If you have any experience driving using the nox18 or even 35 I’d love to hear. I’d imagine the 18 would be much better for driving safely and general detection of game through the woods and trails.
 
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I'm sure most people will say NO and be horrified to even think about the idea :eek: but I am not among them.

I was told, by people on here, I would fall over and die, using thermal just even to WALK on my land. When I got my first head mounted thermal, a Q-14, back in Sept 2015, I was actually nervous, and spent several nights taking short walks outside at night, near the house. But I didn't fall down and I didn't die. :giggle:

Since then, I think I've had every head mounted thermal we can buy (except some of the chinese units) and I am still above ground. And I roll around on my 4 - wheeler at speeds in the ranges you mention. I will say familiarity with the land you're rolling on matters. On un familiar ground, I'd be going slower and I've touched 30 mph (per the speedometer on the 4-wheeler) on my land. The land around here has a lot of gulley's and falling into a big gully would be no fun. Twice in 6 years, I've bumped into a fence (barbed wire) I didn't realize how close I was to, so be careful near fences. I was moving along side the fence and scrapped it, didn't crash head on into it.

I have both a 14 and a thermal up there usually. There's a pipe bridge on my land and on the N side of the pipe bridge, its a 20 foot drop off and on the other side a 10 foot drop off. Its really dark in that area and on some nights the 14 isn't enough to see the gravel (farm) road that goes across that pipe bridge. The thermal almost always can (except in Snow or Ice) so the thermal is safer in general on that pipe bridge than the 14. Other nights, if there is snow, the 14 can see better in that spot than the thermal, the luminosity of the snow is amazing, even in overcast conditions. NV truly "shines" in the snow :). So occasionally the 14 is better, but I rely on the thermal to navigate in general (and yes I know this goes exactly again the conventional wisdom, and I didn't say this for years, but I'm comfortable saying it now because I have no doubts about it any longer. I really do feel safer driving with the thermal on more nights than with the 14. Many more. Probably 90% or higher of the nights. Though again, I use both and feel even safer with both ! :D

The main ford across the creek that runs diagonally across our land (250 acres) is in the woods. And on most nights, its dark in there (in the winter with a full moon, being the big exception where its very bright in there). But the thermal can see very well in there and in general better than the 14.

Do I ever go out with just the thermal on my head driving ? Yes. And in general, I feel safer with the thermal than the 14 driving, on my land due to the need to drive around woods, where things are very dark on many nights. The thermal doesn't care at all about dark, the 14 does. But I do take both, often. The main reason I wear 14s at night on most nights is so I can see the ir-laser on all my 556 and 762 "stoner" type rifles (the self-loaders designed by a group of people, one of which was named "Stoner" :D ). But as I've said, in snow and ice the 14 can often see better.

I'd sell the Axion and get a 14 ASAP, so you can have both up there. Once you have experienced hands free spotting while moving, you won't need the dedicated handheld thermals.

I've used
q-14 640
Odin 320
Patrol 640
Skeet 320
Coti 320
Snipe 640
Nox-18

Head mounted while driving ... and again ... I'm still above ground.

As to using a thermal at more than 1x while driving. I have done it. Again people on here said doing that even just walking with 2x, would result in death. But I've tried it and I'm still here. I wouldn't start out doing that. First of all, apparently some people have more troubles with thermal than I do ... and some have more troubles with thermal on their heads than I do, maybe there's something "wrong" with my brain :D ... but I have no troubles and I love thermal on my head! But just in case you're brain is different, start on on 1x and go slow. Walk around a bit for a couple of nights. Then try driving, and keep it slow, especially in confined areas or areas with obstacles ... build up your confidence and your speed slowly. Once you've built up your confidence and your experience, then try 2x standing still. Then you can try 2x rolling, slowly, etc.
But I don't recommend starting out on 2x at higher speeds, like 15+. Not until you have a body of experience at slower speeds on 1x.

And if anything ever looks "wrong" ... then stop moving. And be sure you are "oriented" ... i.e. that you know where you are and what you are looking at ... and that goes for NV or thermal. I've lost orientation a couple of times ... so be aware of the possibility and try to remember to stop and reorient if you think you might have lost your orientation (which way is which). And again, this goes for NV or thermal, driving or walking.

I've been doing this for years, with avg 10+ hours per week outside at night for 50 weeks a year, since Feb 2013 so 8 going on 9 years and 4000+ hours. I don't consider myself an "expert" ... but I'm not "just starting" either. And I know what I do works for me because I've done these things many times now in many different conditions. I do like going on unfamiliar ground, because its more challenging, but I do go slower there, for sure.

Best of luck with your attempts !! :)
 
I'm sure most people will say NO and be horrified to even think about the idea :eek: but I am not among them.

I was told, by people on here, I would fall over and die, using thermal just even to WALK on my land. When I got my first head mounted thermal, a Q-14, back in Sept 2015, I was actually nervous, and spent several nights taking short walks outside at night, near the house. But I didn't fall down and I didn't die. :giggle:

Since then, I think I've had every head mounted thermal we can buy (except some of the chinese units) and I am still above ground. And I roll around on my 4 - wheeler at speeds in the ranges you mention. I will say familiarity with the land you're rolling on matters. On un familiar ground, I'd be going slower and I've touched 30 mph (per the speedometer on the 4-wheeler) on my land. The land around here has a lot of gulley's and falling into a big gully would be no fun. Twice in 6 years, I've bumped into a fence (barbed wire) I didn't realize how close I was to, so be careful near fences. I was moving along side the fence and scrapped it, didn't crash head on into it.

I have both a 14 and a thermal up there usually. There's a pipe bridge on my land and on the N side of the pipe bridge, its a 20 foot drop off and on the other side a 10 foot drop off. Its really dark in that area and on some nights the 14 isn't enough to see the gravel (farm) road that goes across that pipe bridge. The thermal almost always can (except in Snow or Ice) so the thermal is safer in general on that pipe bridge than the 14. Other nights, if there is snow, the 14 can see better in that spot than the thermal, the luminosity of the snow is amazing, even in overcast conditions. NV truly "shines" in the snow :). So occasionally the 14 is better, but I rely on the thermal to navigate in general (and yes I know this goes exactly again the conventional wisdom, and I didn't say this for years, but I'm comfortable saying it now because I have no doubts about it any longer. I really do feel safer driving with the thermal on more nights than with the 14. Many more. Probably 90% or higher of the nights. Though again, I use both and feel even safer with both ! :D

The main ford across the creek that runs diagonally across our land (250 acres) is in the woods. And on most nights, its dark in there (in the winter with a full moon, being the big exception where its very bright in there). But the thermal can see very well in there and in general better than the 14.

Do I ever go out with just the thermal on my head driving ? Yes. And in general, I feel safer with the thermal than the 14 driving, on my land due to the need to drive around woods, where things are very dark on many nights. The thermal doesn't care at all about dark, the 14 does. But I do take both, often. The main reason I wear 14s at night on most nights is so I can see the ir-laser on all my 556 and 762 "stoner" type rifles (the self-loaders designed by a group of people, one of which was named "Stoner" :D ). But as I've said, in snow and ice the 14 can often see better.

I'd sell the Axion and get a 14 ASAP, so you can have both up there. Once you have experienced hands free spotting while moving, you won't need the dedicated handheld thermals.

I've used
q-14 640
Odin 320
Patrol 640
Skeet 320
Coti 320
Snipe 640
Nox-18

Head mounted while driving ... and again ... I'm still above ground.

As to using a thermal at more than 1x while driving. I have done it. Again people on here said doing that even just walking with 2x, would result in death. But I've tried it and I'm still here. I wouldn't start out doing that. First of all, apparently some people have more troubles with thermal than I do ... and some have more troubles with thermal on their heads than I do, maybe there's something "wrong" with my brain :D ... but I have no troubles and I love thermal on my head! But just in case you're brain is different, start on on 1x and go slow. Walk around a bit for a couple of nights. Then try driving, and keep it slow, especially in confined areas or areas with obstacles ... build up your confidence and your speed slowly. Once you've built up your confidence and your experience, then try 2x standing still. Then you can try 2x rolling, slowly, etc.
But I don't recommend starting out on 2x at higher speeds, like 15+. Not until you have a body of experience at slower speeds on 1x.

And if anything ever looks "wrong" ... then stop moving. And be sure you are "oriented" ... i.e. that you know where you are and what you are looking at ... and that goes for NV or thermal. I've lost orientation a couple of times ... so be aware of the possibility and try to remember to stop and reorient if you think you might have lost your orientation (which way is which). And again, this goes for NV or thermal, driving or walking.

I've been doing this for years, with avg 10+ hours per week outside at night for 50 weeks a year, since Feb 2013 so 8 going on 9 years and 4000+ hours. I don't consider myself an "expert" ... but I'm not "just starting" either. And I know what I do works for me because I've done these things many times now in many different conditions. I do like going on unfamiliar ground, because its more challenging, but I do go slower there, for sure.

Best of luck with your attempts !! :)
That was quite possibly the best answer I’ve received to a question on this site ever lol. And that’s awesome to hear. The reason I asked about the 2x optics helmet mounted is because it pains me the cost of the nox18 and nox35 are so close and the 35 would make a great secondary scope vs the 18. It sounds like the 18 is the way to go for my needs however as mostly a helmet mounted optic.

Given all your experience, which thermal would you recommend I choose? I’m quite partial to Nvision and love their customer service and was a dealer for them for awhile even. Def leaning toward the Nox 18 but interested to hear what you thought was the best.

And I agree with you I should sell the handheld thermal and get a 14 with a laser.

If anyone wants a great deal on a pulsar handheld thermal and 2 batteries let me know! Haha
 
I must be screwed up in the head too...

If I don't have something with an ir laser on it then i take the 14 off my helmet.

Only thing that's happened to me at night is I'm more likely to walk or drive into a ditch in a grown up field as the grass mostly looks level

The above had happened with only the 14, only the thermal, and both mounted on my head... So I think it's more of a night/ grass / grown up ditch issue.
Or maybe I'm just Stoopid

Either way 100% thermal for hunting is a fine choice for me
 
I had something typed out, no fucking clue where it went.

Yes, its easy to do. Just be aware that your peripheral vision will be gone. You have a tendency to look around looking for stuff which can cause you to crash. Black hot works better for driving to me, but white hot for hunting. Ymmv.
 
Back in the day our VVS2 aka drivers enhanced viewers (thermal) had a BAD lag time. So bad that they took them away until they could fix the issue. It put a couple of people into ditches.
 
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Paired a nox 18 Last night with a (not mine) photonis echo wp last night. Nox has a filter on it. Dialed the nox back to 2 bightness(it was still barely light out), and the color was damn near spot on. It was easy to look through these while looking at white light(neighborhood) and stuff that was white hot. I was truly impressed. Didn’t get to try it in the field but i will, soon.
What filter were u guys using? I’ve been seeing footage of the Nox 18 having a blueish hue to them which is what I need to pair with white phos 14