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Off the shelf Precision Rifle under $2K recommendations

If you want a lighter rifle or have the potential need/want for a lighter rifle just go light. You can always add weight. The concept that you can’t be precise or accurate day in and day out with a light rifle is crazy. Don’t be scared of a Sig Cross and proof has barrels coming for them if they don’t already do.
 
My $.02 based on getting into precision rifle 5 years ago after a lifetime of clay target competition (on which I burned out several years ago):
  • Ruger RPR: It will work, probably. It will be accurate, probably. But it will always be a Ruger, definitely. If you evolve in precision rifle, you'll find, probably, that you outgrow it pretty quick. Then you'll find out about resale value (and you'll find, probably, that you pretty much donate any mods you stick on it).
  • Big names of the past - Remington, Winchester, Browning, Savage - sad to see what they have become. If you shoot half a box of ammo a year of which 9 rounds is sight-in and the tenth only has to go into a "minute of deer" under 300 yards, the old guard is fine. Anything more? Don't. Just don't.
  • Tikka is the easy button for factory rifles. They shoot. Just be aware that Tikka-compatible stocks, chassis, etc. are just that - Tikka. They won't fit anything else. There's a reason practically all the customs are R700 - stocks & triggers are pretty much interchangeable (with a very few caveats).
    - I started precision centerfire with a TAC A1. No, it's not a custom but it's a highly-capable, competition-ready turnkey solution.
  • The Badrock rifles were mentioned. I'm a fan of Defiance actions (the company that sells the Badrock) - I have a switch-barrel rig built on their Deviant action. I've never handled or shot one - but I put one of my Tikkas in the LSS-XL chassis, so I can speak to that. It's a quality but (in precision rifle terms) lightweight, bare-bones offering. OP will probably like the AR grip - I swapped mine for an MDT vertical grip, which was ok, but the chassis wasn't designed for one so the strong hand is pushed about 1/4-1/2" too far down for my liking. Biggest shortcoming of the LSS-XL for precision work is lack of an ARCA rail - remedied by purchasing said rail from MDT and bolting it on. I did that with mine; looked and worked fine (see photo below).
  • The Tikka shown in the photo is a T3X Varmint in .223, 24" barrel, Anarchy Outdoors bolt handle (the teeny-tiny little stock bolt nub - "handle" is being generous - is weird for a full-size bolt gun), MDT vertical grip, ARCA rail, 20MOA picatinny rail, and polymer mag. It weighed maybe 12-14 pounds with the Vortex Viper PST 5-25x50 scope... nowhere near the 17-19 pounds of my customs.
Hope this gives you a little more data for your decision.
IMG_2559.jpeg
 
For your needs a Sig Cross or a Tikka ctr and a chassis of your choosing. I believe you can get a 20” barrel on the Tikka. I’ve handled the cross and would like to own one in 308. Definitely a great hunting rifle in the short barrel configuration. Might be worth investigating the possibility of a switch barrel rig based on the sig. Short handy barrel for hunting/ stalking, and a 24-26” barrel for stretching out/ belly shooting. Buy what feels good to you. It’s easy to make something heavier, losing weight can be a challenge.
 
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In no particular order: Tikka, Bergara, Sig Cross, Badrock.
 
Made it out to another store today and was able to handle the Ruger, Tikka, Sig, Daniel Defense (2 diff chassis), Bergara, Christensen and Savage. I also handled two high end guns, one in the $3500 range and one that was $10K. I also spoke at length to a gun smith on various topics which was enlightening.

Thoughts...
I like the weight of the Sig and Christensen. The sig's proprietary (damn you Sig!) but as others have said, there may be barrels coming out specifically for the Sig and I'd bump it up to 21" or so. No point in going 24" on a 308 IMHO. I then pick up the others and they feel like lead weights. And of course I can add weight when needed as others have mentioned. I'm still not convinced on the Christensen's carbon barrel so I'm probably going to nix that one. The Sig takes Magpul magazines! I have lots of those in various sizes for 308. The trigger was pretty decent, not the best out of the lot from what I can remember but it was pretty solid. I tried it back to back with a Triggertech-equipped rifle ($3500 gun) and it was about the same.

The DD was nice, a bit more than I wanted to spend. They only had 6.5's in the precision chassis and had a Delta 5 in 308. I'm warming to a stock but it did feel like plastic. Bolt action was decent, trigger was nice on both. Takes Magpul as well.

I handled another Tikka Tac A1 and still felt a bit low budget except for the action. I could probably spruce it up a bit. The Tikka trigger did have a wee bit of take-up but broke cleanly. And yes, it comes in a 20". I may look into a Tikka action with a custom barrel and then drop it into a less expensive chassis, possibly upgrade that down the road.

The Bergara was a discontinued LRP 2.0. I don't know much about Bergara but nothing about it really stuck with me.

The Ruger. This one was a bit of a surprise. First, it was a 6.5 with a 24" barrel so it was heavier than the 308 version and 20" barrel. The trigger was brilliant. First one I handled was used so I asked for one of the new ones just to compare and make sure the first wasn't aftermarket/modified. I checked three and all had an absolutely fantastic trigger. No creep, no take-up. It does have the finger safety naturally but man, I really liked it. The action was a bit more finicky than say the Tikka or Sig. I was really expecting it to feel cheap given the price point. I will say the Sig does feel a little more "precise" and waaaay more wieldy due to the short barrel and weight.

The $10K gun was an FNH Ballista 38 barreled in 338 Lapua but included a 24" 308 Win barrel as well. Honestly, the Ruger trigger was better. But man was that a cool gun.

So on the Sig, can one swap in an aftermarket trigger? I couldn't find any info on that.

I also was turned on to rem-age barrels. Don't really know anything about Preferred Barrel Blanks (good or bad) but the concept seems end user friendly and would probably push me towards building my own.
 
Ape_Factory said:
I also was turned on to rem-age barrels. Don't really know anything about Preferred Barrel Blanks (good or bad) but the concept seems end user friendly and would probably push me towards building my own.
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Lots of remage options, you don’t have to shoehorn yourself into pbb alone for that.
 
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I currently shoot a Tikka Tac A1 in 6.5cm. It’s an absolute tack driver. It’s a consistent .5moa rifle. Highly recommended.
 
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Having a hard time finding any pre-fit barrels for the Sig Cross. Just want to see what the options are along with wait times. Any links greatly appreciated.
 
American Rifle Company typically does a killer independence day sale. I'm too far down the Tikka road to pivot now with 3 actions and 6 or so barrels, but if I was starting over a nucleus would be hard to pass up.
 
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For what its worth, consider country of origin and supply chain at this point. If you can get one from an American shop, its worth that.

Bergara's nicer stuff comes from the dates. Badrock, also from the states. Tikka is imported by Beretta. The availability has been questionable for a year now, if not longer. As others have mentioned, their proprietary actions make things a little more difficult too. Everyone loves the Rem 700 actions for a reason.

I was a Tikka convert who sang the praises of them for 6 months or so of owning mine. Dropping it in an MDT chassis and I was improving my abilities pretty well with it.

One day I started shooting and the groups opened up, and it started overheating. A few more range visits where it only got worse, and I wasted a couple hundred bucks in match ammo chasing it, and multiple cleanings, and still no improvement. A bore scope inspection revealed chamber cracking.

It took me hours of phone calls and emails to even reach Beretta support, and once I returned my rifle to them, it was an endless blackhole of voicemails and emails left unanswered. I got desperate, I started personally calling everyone up and down the chain of the VPs, AVPs, directors, etc. I ended up going even after them in small claims.

Eventually they sent me a replacement rifle. That was 8 months later. I wont ever buy a product from them again.
 
Ape_Factory said:
Made it out to another store today and was able to handle the Ruger, Tikka, Sig, Daniel Defense (2 diff chassis), Bergara, Christensen and Savage. I also handled two high end guns, one in the $3500 range and one that was $10K. I also spoke at length to a gun smith on various topics which was enlightening.

Thoughts...
I like the weight of the Sig and Christensen. The sig's proprietary (damn you Sig!) but as others have said, there may be barrels coming out specifically for the Sig and I'd bump it up to 21" or so. No point in going 24" on a 308 IMHO. I then pick up the others and they feel like lead weights. And of course I can add weight when needed as others have mentioned. I'm still not convinced on the Christensen's carbon barrel so I'm probably going to nix that one. The Sig takes Magpul magazines! I have lots of those in various sizes for 308. The trigger was pretty decent, not the best out of the lot from what I can remember but it was pretty solid. I tried it back to back with a Triggertech-equipped rifle ($3500 gun) and it was about the same.

The DD was nice, a bit more than I wanted to spend. They only had 6.5's in the precision chassis and had a Delta 5 in 308. I'm warming to a stock but it did feel like plastic. Bolt action was decent, trigger was nice on both. Takes Magpul as well.

I handled another Tikka Tac A1 and still felt a bit low budget except for the action. I could probably spruce it up a bit. The Tikka trigger did have a wee bit of take-up but broke cleanly. And yes, it comes in a 20". I may look into a Tikka action with a custom barrel and then drop it into a less expensive chassis, possibly upgrade that down the road.

The Bergara was a discontinued LRP 2.0. I don't know much about Bergara but nothing about it really stuck with me.

The Ruger. This one was a bit of a surprise. First, it was a 6.5 with a 24" barrel so it was heavier than the 308 version and 20" barrel. The trigger was brilliant. First one I handled was used so I asked for one of the new ones just to compare and make sure the first wasn't aftermarket/modified. I checked three and all had an absolutely fantastic trigger. No creep, no take-up. It does have the finger safety naturally but man, I really liked it. The action was a bit more finicky than say the Tikka or Sig. I was really expecting it to feel cheap given the price point. I will say the Sig does feel a little more "precise" and waaaay more wieldy due to the short barrel and weight.

The $10K gun was an FNH Ballista 38 barreled in 338 Lapua but included a 24" 308 Win barrel as well. Honestly, the Ruger trigger was better. But man was that a cool gun.

So on the Sig, can one swap in an aftermarket trigger? I couldn't find any info on that.

I also was turned on to rem-age barrels. Don't really know anything about Preferred Barrel Blanks (good or bad) but the concept seems end user friendly and would probably push me towards building my own.
Click to expand...

On the Bergara, the base rifle is decent, but look at the Pro/Premiere version. I used to have an HMR Pro in 6 CM and it was excellent. It's got a stainless fluted bolt, and the action is very smooth. It also comes standard with a Triggertech Diamond - a trigger I have on two of my current rifles which is excellent. You could buy the same rifle and upgrade anything you want since it's a R700 clone. The only issue with Bergara is that you have to use their barrels - though they are quite good.

Of the others you mention, the RPR is decent, but I'm not a fan. A friend has one in 6.5 CM and no longer uses it.

Another friend has a Christenson Arms in 6.5 PRC. It's okay, but just doesn't seem as stout. Again, not a fan.

Honestly, Tikka or Bergara are your best bets IF you don't go the barrelled action/prefit route. I consider the latter to be the one that you really can't go wrong with - completely upgradable (triggers, chassis, etc.) and changeable in caliber as you move along.
 
LJT88 said:
I currently shoot a Tikka Tac A1 in 6.5cm. It’s an absolute tack driver. It’s a constant .5moa rifle. Highly recommended.
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I also have the Tikka T3x Tac A1, in 6.5CM. With match or reloaded ammo, and at that price-point, you won't find a better rifle or accuracy. Yes, it's heavy but it's not a hunting rifle. And that weight handles recoil, I don't even use a recoil buffer that came with the rifle. If you want lighter weight or a hunting rifle buy a Tikka CTR.

And that is not a "wee bit of take-up," it has a two-stage trigger.
 
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Conaso said:
I also have the Tikka T3x Tac A1, in 6.5CM. With match or reloaded ammo, and at that price-point, you won't find a better rifle or accuracy. Yes, it's heavy but it's not a hunting rifle. And that weight handles recoil, I don't even use a recoil buffer that came with the rifle. If you want lighter weight or a hunting rifle buy a Tikka CTR.

And that is not a "wee bit of take-up," it has a two-stage trigger.
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Duly noted, I just perceive it as dead travel. I've never used a two-stage before.
 
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@AleksanderSuave brings up very valid issues - especially as regards Beretta "service."

I stand by my opinion that Tikka rifles are great at their price point. BUT. The caveat is - and I learned this through direct experience - you'll need a knowledgable smith to help you change barrels and especially if something goes wrong. I'd still go for a Tikka long before I went with Ruger or others at that price point. But it's good to have some knowledge.

Factory Tikka barrels are extraordinarily hard to break loose from their actions. There are numerous threads here about that.

I discovered that my T3X Varmint wouldn't reliably fire handloads primed with CCI 450 (magnum small rifle) primers, with a failure to fire rate in excess of ten percent. CCI 400s (standard srp) worked fine but showed pressure signs with the mildest loads, so I wanted to use 450s. I also tested Winchester SRPs - FTF rate almost as high as the 450s.

So the local shop where I bought it sent it back to Beretta for me. About six weeks later, it came back... and gave me a FTF in the first ten rounds.

Since warranty was obviously useless, I asked a smith well-known in our region to look at it. In a matter of moments, he pointed out that the firing pin indentations on primers didn't have a rounded curve - they were cylindrical. The firing pin had no radius, so the striking force was spread out enough to cause FTF with the harder primers. So he rounded off the firing pin... and no more trouble for the time I had the rifle.

It's good to have at least one good smith in your contacts list... best place to find out who they are in your area? Go to matches and ask!
 
DownhillFromHere said:
@AleksanderSuave brings up very valid issues - especially as regards Beretta "service."



It's good to have at least one good smith in your contacts list... best place to find out who they are in your area? Go to matches and ask!
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This is something that was really driven home today while asking gunsmiths at a few shops what they could and couldn't do. This is high on my priority list.
 
DownhillFromHere said:
@AleksanderSuave brings up very valid issues - especially as regards Beretta "service."

I stand by my opinion that Tikka rifles are great at their price point. BUT. The caveat is - and I learned this through direct experience - you'll need a knowledgable smith to help you change barrels and especially if something goes wrong. I'd still go for a Tikka long before I went with Ruger or others at that price point. But it's good to have some knowledge.

Factory Tikka barrels are extraordinarily hard to break loose from their actions. There are numerous threads here about that.
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I haven't had any trouble removing a Tikka Barrel. My buddy who had never removed a barrel bought a vice and had no issues either. 4 barrels between us so far.
 
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Sniper's Hide members and supporters are proof there are adequate numbers of Tikka expert gunsmiths.
 
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Ended up purchasing a rifle this evening along with a longer barrel. I ended up with a new Sig Cross and also have an unused 20" barrel for the Cross headed my way from a forum member. We'll see how this goes. I ended up right at my budget limit. Still need to get a few accessories but should have everything together in a few weeks.
 
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Sounds like a pretty nice crossover rifle. I really like the concept of cross
 
I think at a minimum, it'll be a fairly good introduction to a bolt action rifle for me and a new reloading challenge. If I really take to it, I'll look at building something later on and invest in a higher end bolt, barrel and chassis.
 
Ape_Factory said:
I think at a minimum, it'll be a fairly good introduction to a bolt action rifle for me and a new reloading challenge. If I really take to it, I'll look at building something later on and invest in a higher end bolt, barrel and chassis.
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Welcome to the bottomless rabbit hole of long range and precision shooting
 
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Ape_Factory said:
F*ck me. See, I've already fallen in to the reloading rabbit hole and the gas gun rabbit hole. I swear two weeks ago I was saying I need to simplify my life. That went well.
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Always does
 
Military snipers of the past have used Remington 700 and Winchester Model 70 rifles with good results. If you are talking about using this as a hunting rifle, you are the biggest limitation on accuracy. You need to carry it, get set up, and take the shot. A rifle/scope weighing 10 pounds or less will serve you well your entire life. The difference between a rifle that will shoot 1/4 inch groups and one inch groups at 100 yards just will not matter at hunting. Things like knowing the range and wind will make a big difference. My opinion anyway. Good luck with whatever you end up with.
 
Ape_Factory said:
I'm 100% new to bolt guns, been lurking and reading over the past week and overall, the forum is excellent at helping me drain my bank account. I already have my eye on things like a KRG Whiskey chassis, Zermatt action, solid barrel, things of that nature. And then I come back down to earth and realize I'd probably be over-gunned with a Ruger precision rifle.

I've really decided I don't want to fool with building one. I've built a few gas guns with great success but I don't know what I don't know about bolt guns so I'd like to spend time behind one that I know is solid out of the box and not that expensive.

A few things to consider.
-I don't have any ranges, within reasonable driving distances, longer than 300 yards, that I could visit as regularly as the ones I currently frequent.
-I'm sticking to .308. I already have an AR10 and I reload for .308 and am set up for it and have numerous loads that are sub-MOA (will need to tweak for new rifle).
-I'm also sort of leaning towards the hunting/tactical end of things as that would be more practical. And again, nothing longer than 300 yards near me.
-I'm a modaholic and like to tweak things so really looking for the precision rifle chassis look as opposed to a regular stock and one with lots of aftermarket support.

I see most PR's are fairly heavy, the RPR being no exception at right around 10 pounds in .308.

I saw the Sig Cross, both the 16" barrel and the 24" model but the 24 comes in at a whopping 14+ pounds. I'm not sure the 16" will really be that much different from my AR which also features a 16" barrel. I do like the weight of the 16" model which is under 7 pounds.

The Christensen Arms MPR is interesting, a bit ugly, but there's a 24" version that's under 8 pounds. Not sure I'm 100% convinced on the carbon/heat transfer thing as I'm involved with a few products which use carbon as a heat conductor and the construction and manufacturing is waaaaay different than what I see on their barrels. The 24" might be a bit overkill for both the ranges I have to work with and hunting but I did find one for just over my price range.

So that sort of leaves me the RPR with a 20" barrel. I could see adding say a Proof barrel later on along with a new carbon hand guard (CODA most likely) to take a bit of weight off if I want to go that direction. I'll likely find it fine as is though.

Anything else I should consider that's readily available?
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I looked at the Savage 110 Elite Precision, Ruger RPR, and the Bergara HMR Pro all in 308. Took me almost 10 months to decide on the Bergara. Like you, I am setup for 308. Have almost 350 rounds through it now and couldn't be happier with it. It's just under 10 lbs bare and can be used for hunting. As long as you don't plan on any long humps. Consider...
 
Ape_Factory said:
I did think about a 22LR as I have a suppressor coming but it doesn't fit my needs for hunting and I really do enjoy shooting the AR10, much more so than anything else I own. But I do giggle when I buy 22LR ammo. It's almost seems like you're stealing! Got four boxes of Federal Punch in today to try out.

Any downsides to Tikka? I really should have given the T3x Tac A1 a harder look as it checks off a lot of boxes and I can get it in a 20" barrel. Under $2K as well. Not sure how I overlooked it. The specs are very similar to the Ruger. Do most consider Tikka to be a bit more consistent than the Ruger out of the box? Better action and trigger?

Definitely one I was considering as well and good to hear on your experience. I did look at the MDT chassis initially when I thought about building. The KRG really caught my eye though and I see they have the new C4 chassis coming out soon albeit more than I want to spend. But damn is that sexy.


Super tempting. Decisions! I did see the tenacity. Assuming I'd go with the short action for .308? I see it has mag options for DBM or BDL (no idea the diff but will google). Always thought an integrated rail was better though. The scope rings are sort of interesting though, cuts down on weight. Guessing there are pro's and cons to that sort of setup.

I hesitated to even post a thread because of that very reason. But...it does have me at least asking questions and learning a bit.

I just started to look up long range shooting matches and there's actually a club where I am (San Antonio) so I'll start to see if I can pursue that avenue for information. I have a few big box stores that have multiple rifles in stock as well. My neighbor is a bolt rifle guy but he's very much into Savage. I'm sure he's reading this right now and cursing me. He does have all the tools necessary to service Savage but if I move or he moves...plus the ugly factor.
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7 foxtrot range in pearsall goes out to a mile. And they do elr matches there.
 
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Ape_Factory said:
I'm 100% new to bolt guns, been lurking and reading over the past week and overall, the forum is excellent at helping me drain my bank account. I already have my eye on things like a KRG Whiskey chassis, Zermatt action, solid barrel, things of that nature. And then I come back down to earth and realize I'd probably be over-gunned with a Ruger precision rifle.

I've really decided I don't want to fool with building one. I've built a few gas guns with great success but I don't know what I don't know about bolt guns so I'd like to spend time behind one that I know is solid out of the box and not that expensive.

A few things to consider.
-I don't have any ranges, within reasonable driving distances, longer than 300 yards, that I could visit as regularly as the ones I currently frequent.
-I'm sticking to .308. I already have an AR10 and I reload for .308 and am set up for it and have numerous loads that are sub-MOA (will need to tweak for new rifle).
-I'm also sort of leaning towards the hunting/tactical end of things as that would be more practical. And again, nothing longer than 300 yards near me.
-I'm a modaholic and like to tweak things so really looking for the precision rifle chassis look as opposed to a regular stock and one with lots of aftermarket support.

I see most PR's are fairly heavy, the RPR being no exception at right around 10 pounds in .308.

I saw the Sig Cross, both the 16" barrel and the 24" model but the 24 comes in at a whopping 14+ pounds. I'm not sure the 16" will really be that much different from my AR which also features a 16" barrel. I do like the weight of the 16" model which is under 7 pounds.

The Christensen Arms MPR is interesting, a bit ugly, but there's a 24" version that's under 8 pounds. Not sure I'm 100% convinced on the carbon/heat transfer thing as I'm involved with a few products which use carbon as a heat conductor and the construction and manufacturing is waaaaay different than what I see on their barrels. The 24" might be a bit overkill for both the ranges I have to work with and hunting but I did find one for just over my price range.

So that sort of leaves me the RPR with a 20" barrel. I could see adding say a Proof barrel later on along with a new carbon hand guard (CODA most likely) to take a bit of weight off if I want to go that direction. I'll likely find it fine as is though.

Anything else I should consider that's readily available?
Click to expand...
I've got the RPR in 6.5 Creedmoor and in 338LM, and am delighted with both. The 6.5, my first RPR, has particularly been a dream gun, had an instructor at one school call it the second flattest rifle he'd ever instructed on. Have a Daniel Defense 6.5 CM, but that's more money, and it's too new to me to really rate it yet.

I'd go with the RPR in 6.5 CM and spend the best of your budget on a good Vortex or a low ranged Nightforce or other good glass. With such a good rifle, the glass gets increasingly important in a hurry. Good luck.

F J B
 
SEB Longrifle1 said:
Just want to ask you Remington action hates a question. Did Mike R. at TacOps make a big mistake using junk actions? Just asking.
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I don't have a dog in this fight, but I think this debate is covered here...
www.forbes.com

"Nobody Gets Fired For Buying IBM". But They Should.

This is not about a certain brand, but about an attitude that is damaging to every industry where it happens, be it by the harm it does to the organization where it occurs or by how damaging it is to the competitors who were robbed of an opportunity.
www.forbes.com www.forbes.com
 
Seekins havak bravo or Daniel defense delta 5.
Both are nail drivers and quality American made firearms that are in your budget.
 
Don't think it was mentioned in the thread: the Sako S20 is excellent. The same philosophy as Tikka (but maybe a small step up in quality and finishing), shoots straight out of the box, and doesn't weight like a dead donkey.

If I read US prices correctly, with 2K you would have plenty of budget left for the muzzle brake / can, and [the proprietary] inclined optics base.

An absolutely worry-free setup.
 
Ape_Factory said:
I agree on the weight thing and have read about that extensively which is why I mentioned leaning towards the tactical/hunting end of things. I'd like some practicality other than paper punching. And if I ever manage to get to a longer range, having accuracy beyond 300 would be a bonus :)

I'm capable but not prepared to spend $5K on a rifle just yet. I want to get my feet wet and see what I like and don't like first rather than making an even more expensive mistake.
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Bergara in 300 win mag, 24" precision rifle. Awesome https://www.bergara.online/us/rifles/premier/lrp-2-0-rifle/
 
Mr. F said:
Under 2k the Seekins Havak is what id go for.

www.eurooptic.com

Seekins Havak Bravo Rifles

Optics, scopes, & more for the precision marksman and serious hunter - Nightforce, Swarovski Optik, Vortex, Sako, Leica, Blaser, Tikka, Trijicon, & many more.
www.eurooptic.com www.eurooptic.com
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Seekins is a superb choice. Rem 700 footprint makes for easy upgrades under normal circumstances. Great people there too. Been shooting one for a few years with absolutely no complaints, less one: I still can’t shoot as good as the rifle is. Got my eye on their new “Hit” platform, basically a custom at production price. If I can just shoot out the replacement barrel they put on it last year. It may outlast me.
 
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Ape_Factory said:
I'm 100% new to bolt guns, been lurking and reading over the past week and overall, the forum is excellent at helping me drain my bank account. I already have my eye on things like a KRG Whiskey chassis, Zermatt action, solid barrel, things of that nature. And then I come back down to earth and realize I'd probably be over-gunned with a Ruger precision rifle.

I've really decided I don't want to fool with building one. I've built a few gas guns with great success but I don't know what I don't know about bolt guns so I'd like to spend time behind one that I know is solid out of the box and not that expensive.

A few things to consider.
-I don't have any ranges, within reasonable driving distances, longer than 300 yards, that I could visit as regularly as the ones I currently frequent.
-I'm sticking to .308. I already have an AR10 and I reload for .308 and am set up for it and have numerous loads that are sub-MOA (will need to tweak for new rifle).
-I'm also sort of leaning towards the hunting/tactical end of things as that would be more practical. And again, nothing longer than 300 yards near me.
-I'm a modaholic and like to tweak things so really looking for the precision rifle chassis look as opposed to a regular stock and one with lots of aftermarket support.

I see most PR's are fairly heavy, the RPR being no exception at right around 10 pounds in .308.

I saw the Sig Cross, both the 16" barrel and the 24" model but the 24 comes in at a whopping 14+ pounds. I'm not sure the 16" will really be that much different from my AR which also features a 16" barrel. I do like the weight of the 16" model which is under 7 pounds.

The Christensen Arms MPR is interesting, a bit ugly, but there's a 24" version that's under 8 pounds. Not sure I'm 100% convinced on the carbon/heat transfer thing as I'm involved with a few products which use carbon as a heat conductor and the construction and manufacturing is waaaaay different than what I see on their barrels. The 24" might be a bit overkill for both the ranges I have to work with and hunting but I did find one for just over my price range.

So that sort of leaves me the RPR with a 20" barrel. I could see adding say a Proof barrel later on along with a new carbon hand guard (CODA most likely) to take a bit of weight off if I want to go that direction. I'll likely find it fine as is though.

Anything else I should consider that's readily available?
Click to expand...
If you can find one in stock, the Remington 700 5R MIlspec is the most accurate factory .308 Win that I've shot. I've had my Gen1 version (stainless w/ black & green HS stock) since 2010, and it shoots 1-hole groups on average.


Original

7A0D8429-2FF7-4199-9DDB-CBBE6EE9C002.jpeg


Magpul Hunter Chassis

35960A5C-3697-4563-8D20-901BBF410640.jpeg


After cutting to 22" and threading 5/8x24

E942F59D-DBC2-4497-B36E-0206F15A139D.jpeg
 
Last edited:
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FuhQ said:
If you can find one in stock, the Remington 700 5R MIlspec is the most accurate factory .308 Win that I've shot. I've had my Gen1 version (stainless w/ black & green HS stock) since 2010, and it shoots 1-hole groups on average.

Click to expand...
Second vote here. Had a Gen 1 24”, sold it, regretted for literally 4 years, found a 20” and bought it.

They’ve appreciated in value. I paid $1200 and was happy to do it.

Very hard to beat these. 175g Sierra match king is just so easy to put on target.
 
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65x55guy said:
Second vote here. Had a Gen 1 24”, sold it, regretted for literally 4 years, found a 20” and bought it.

They’ve appreciated in value. I paid $1200 and was happy to do it.

Very hard to beat these. 175g Sierra match king is just so easy to put on target.
Click to expand...
I had my 24” (non-threaded) Gen 1 cut down to 22” and threaded by my smith. Unfortunately accuracy has changed with my previous 168 target load, so now I’m going to have to rework another load for it. It’s still accurate, but that load is no longer shooting 1-hole groups like it used to. 🤦🏼
 
Ape_Factory said:
I can't help but think you're just bitter and not very fun.
Click to expand...
Not bitter, and quite a lot of fun actually. I was just worried that if I asked why you didn't mention either the Springfield 2020 waypoint?
www.springfield-armory.com

Model 2020 Waypoint Rifles - Springfield Armory

www.springfield-armory.com www.springfield-armory.com

Or a savage 110 ultra light... that you would respond with something stoopid. You didn't disappoint, btw.
www.savagearms.com

110 Ultralite | Backcountry Xtreme Series | Savage Arms

At 6 lbs and under with a PROOF Research barrel, the 110 Ultralite lightweight rifle is designed to combat elevation and elements without sacrificing performance, making it the ultimate mountain hunting rifle.
www.savagearms.com www.savagearms.com
 
GlockandRoll said:
Not bitter, and quite a lot of fun actually. I was just worried that if I asked why you didn't mention either the Springfield 2020 waypoint?
www.springfield-armory.com

Model 2020 Waypoint Rifles - Springfield Armory

www.springfield-armory.com www.springfield-armory.com

Or a savage 110 ultra light... that you would respond with something stoopid. You didn't disappoint, btw.
www.savagearms.com

110 Ultralite | Backcountry Xtreme Series | Savage Arms

At 6 lbs and under with a PROOF Research barrel, the 110 Ultralite lightweight rifle is designed to combat elevation and elements without sacrificing performance, making it the ultimate mountain hunting rifle.
www.savagearms.com www.savagearms.com
Click to expand...

Just poking you out of fun as I have no idea why you'd think I work for a manufacturer. I'm not part of the gun industry in any way, shape or form. Honestly, this thread has been great as it's brought up rifles I didn't even know existed. Like the Springfield 2020 waypoint you mentioned. So thanks for that. I did already purchase a rifle and I was looking for a modern precision-type frame and not a more traditional stock, but those are growing on me. Bolt rifle #2 may be along those lines.
 
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