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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

So the newer A2's have a bolt on scope rail. In the past I've told people to go 1.5". I think you could get away going 1.35" with the taller rail on the current A2 with a 50mm objective. Those were a deal. I snagged some for resale here.
Think I can mount a Nightforce NX8 2.5-20x50mm in a Spuhr Unimount with 30mm height? Also, don't know the nightforce, but presuming I can get -6mil of travel down and stick it in a 20MOA/6mil elevation in that Spuhr mount. Don't intend to be taking the covert past about 800yds, but no reason I can't just shove my 338LM barrel in there and reach out to a mile like my current SRS.
 
Think I can mount a Nightforce NX8 2.5-20x50mm in a Spuhr Unimount with 30mm height? Also, don't know the nightforce, but presuming I can get -6mil of travel down and stick it in a 20MOA/6mil elevation in that Spuhr mount. Don't intend to be taking the covert past about 800yds, but no reason I can't just shove my 338LM barrel in there and reach out to a mile like my current SRS.
You could stick that in a 20 MOA mount. I wouldn’t go lower than 1.35” if you intend to use it.
 
Say I can’t find a .300 Norma barrel locally.

Can a standard profile (not hunter) DT factory .308 Winchester barrel be re-chambered to .300 Norma and tgen used safely?

Only thing I can think is the twist rate might not be optimal.
 
Say I can’t find a .300 Norma barrel locally.

Can a standard profile (not hunter) DT factory .308 Winchester barrel be re-chambered to .300 Norma and tgen used safely?

Only thing I can think is the twist rate might not be optimal.
I believe the current factory barrel twist on the 22.5” and 26” .308 barrels is 1:10. I personally wouldn’t go slower than 1:9 if you want to shoot heavier projectiles.

We’ve gone through exporters and importers to get barrels to Australia before.
 
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I believe the current factory barrel twist on the 22.5” and 26” .308 barrels is 1:10. I personally wouldn’t go slower than 1:9 if you want to shoot heavier projectiles.

We’ve gone through exporters and importers to get barrels to Australia before.
I guess my question was more around if it was possible and safe in terms of chamber pressure, keeping twist rate out of the equation for now.

The assumption is that it is possible and safe up to any caliber the SRS is rated for, but assumptions themselves aren’t safe, so I ask to confirm.
 
Who hunts with a SRS? I need/want a hunting rifle. Currently my only 2 bolt actions are SRS A1 (.308) and MRAD (.308/.338 lapua).

Trying to decide if I should spend 2k ish for a .300 prc conversion for the SRS, or buy a dedicated hunting rifle for around same price. What do you all think?

I could always just shoot the 308 but have the itch to get something with a little more power
 
Who hunts with a SRS? I need/want a hunting rifle. Currently my only 2 bolt actions are SRS A1 (.308) and MRAD (.308/.338 lapua).

Trying to decide if I should spend 2k ish for a .300 prc conversion for the SRS, or buy a dedicated hunting rifle for around same price. What do you all think?

I could always just shoot the 308 but have the itch to get something with a little more power
You’d need to define the style of hunting you’re doing. For some, hunting is hiking 10+ miles in the mountains. Others, that’s riding their side by side to the box blind and waiting. It may be suitable for one style, but not ideal for the other.

An analogy would be, are tennis shoes suitable for hunting? In some cases yes, in others it’s a big no.
 
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Who hunts with a SRS? I need/want a hunting rifle. Currently my only 2 bolt actions are SRS A1 (.308) and MRAD (.308/.338 lapua).

Trying to decide if I should spend 2k ish for a .300 prc conversion for the SRS, or buy a dedicated hunting rifle for around same price. What do you all think?

I could always just shoot the 308 but have the itch to get something with a little more power
I've taken mine hunting. I like that I am not smacking so many trees with the muzzle end of the rifle when I'm bushwalking through the forest.

A new rifle, means a new optic, which can get pretty pricey.

We have some 300 PRC kits in stock.
 
Who hunts with a SRS? I need/want a hunting rifle. Currently my only 2 bolt actions are SRS A1 (.308) and MRAD (.308/.338 lapua).

Trying to decide if I should spend 2k ish for a .300 prc conversion for the SRS, or buy a dedicated hunting rifle for around same price. What do you all think?

I could always just shoot the 308 but have the itch to get something with a little more power
I mainly use mine for hunting.
IMG_4540.jpeg
IMG_1343.jpeg
 
Who hunts with a SRS? I need/want a hunting rifle. Currently my only 2 bolt actions are SRS A1 (.308) and MRAD (.308/.338 lapua).

Trying to decide if I should spend 2k ish for a .300 prc conversion for the SRS, or buy a dedicated hunting rifle for around same price. What do you all think?

I could always just shoot the 308 but have the itch to get something with a little more power
I do. Moose. Elk. Long marches. Patrol carry tip down. Love it enough I bought a matching second for my son. It’s not an ultralight mountain rifle. Plan accordingly.

That said… the monopod in the back makes absurdly long shots ethical and easy. Moose at 535yds, elk at 725. Every friend and guide has teased me for the heavy tactical rifle. Then praised the rifle after it filled the freezer beyond the distance that any other hunter could close on spooky game.
 
Who hunts with a SRS? I need/want a hunting rifle. Currently my only 2 bolt actions are SRS A1 (.308) and MRAD (.308/.338 lapua).

Trying to decide if I should spend 2k ish for a .300 prc conversion for the SRS, or buy a dedicated hunting rifle for around same price. What do you all think?

I could always just shoot the 308 but have the itch to get something with a little more power
F85CD2B5-96B1-4F90-91D1-D085F338BCD4.jpeg

I hunt with mine. 20 inch 6.5 CM with a can is hell on deer in the West Virginia woods.
 
I do. Moose. Elk. Long marches. Patrol carry tip down. Love it enough I bought a matching second for my son. It’s not an ultralight mountain rifle. Plan accordingly.

That said… the monopod in the back makes absurdly long shots ethical and easy. Moose at 535yds, elk at 725. Every friend and guide has teased me for the heavy tactical rifle. Then praised the rifle after it filled the freezer beyond the distance that any other hunter could close on spooky game.
Nice!!!
What caliber do you run for elk and moose?
 
Just to emphasize just how accurate the HTI is...

I have just removed the IVEY adjustable mount i was using and have re installed a SPUHR 13mil fixed IMS mount. This arvo i re zeroed the HTI.

Note... DT factory 375CT barrel has now just over 1300 rounds through it!! and It still shoots like this!! 2x "3 shot" groups and 1 x "5 shot" group at 110yds..
Woofercau, what thread size does that T5 brake you have on your HTI use?
 
M22x1.5 STD Desert Tech 375CT Barrel Thread.. :)
22x1.5 or 25x1.5?


This site has 25x1.5
 
All of the newer bolts have that nickel-boron (?) coating. I bought an M2 this year and the bolts had that coating.
 
Does that smooth out the travel in the chassis and reduce wear on the anodizing?
 
Does that smooth out the travel in the chassis and reduce wear on the anodizing?
I don’t think its much of a difference. I’ve learned to run the bolt on these rifles like its a piece of machinery and they are fine. I tell anyone who is going to shoot mine to be rough with it. Thats how they like it.
 
Does that smooth out the travel in the chassis and reduce wear on the anodizing?
It’s not a huge difference in my opinion. It does feel slightly smoother to me. The coating does help reduce corrosion.

I wouldn’t sell an older bolt I already had to upgrade, but if buying new I’d take the newer option if given the choice.
 
Ok cool it just looked a little shorter than I’d expect
Looking at the pic, I’d agree it looks to be the factory 26” barrel. We have the factory barrels in stock along with 28”, 27”, 22.5”, and 18” carbon barrels in .338 LM.
 
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Looking at the pic, I’d agree it looks to be the factory 26” barrel. We have the factory barrels in stock along with 28”, 27”, 22.5”, and 18” carbon barrels in .338 LM.
It’s a factory 26”. Factory brake. Athlon Ares ETR. Using Prime ammunition. I had good dope out to a mile a week prior in Ohio, and had been out often in various conditions to that distance, so anything inside of 800yds that day was game. It was utterly windless. Couldn’t have asked a better morning of the hunting gods.
 
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They look to be Nickel Boron treated. Desert Tech has been coating them this way for a couple years now.



Does that mean they a different dimension than the old bolts or does nickel boron nor add anything thickness wise that messes with the current tolerances.
I thought nickel boron flaked with heavy use?
 
Looking at the pic, I’d agree it looks to be the factory 26” barrel. We have the factory barrels in stock along with 28”, 27”, 22.5”, and 18” carbon barrels in .338 LM.

How much are the 26” carbon barrels and can you put on a taper brake for my Elite Iron can?
 
Does that mean they a different dimension than the old bolts or does nickel boron nor add anything thickness wise that messes with the current tolerances.
I thought nickel boron flaked with heavy use?
Not sure if they changed dimensions before coating or not. The coated bolts have been standard for a couple years now. Never seen the coating on one flake off either.
 
How much are the 26” carbon barrels and can you put on a taper brake for my Elite Iron can?
Finished Carbon Barrels are $1950. I’d need to look at the print for the elite iron taper to see if there is enough material at the muzzle to put a tapered shoulder at the muzzle.
 
Decided it'd been too long since I flipped a bang switch so I linked up with a buddy I shoot PRS with that needed to zero his newest match rifle configuration. We went to a nearby public range which was mysteriously nearly bereft of shooters. I wanted to do another zero-shift test since my barrels are all still pretty new.

Here's the target. Each of the black shoot-n-see's has at least 15 shots on it. Depended on how much ammo I had on-hand which was mostly what was in the magazines already. For each one I'd shoot a string of 5 shots, pull the barrel out, reinstall the barrel and shoot 5 more as fast as I could at the same aim point, at least until I obliterated the aim point... then I'd guess where to aim as best I could.

img_6926.jpg

  • Starting at the bottom is 3 groups from my 26" (pretty sure it's SAC made) 6XC barel firing David Tubb's retail ammo with HBN coated 115gr DTAC's. Zero shift is inside the normal group size so it passes muster. You can see 3 distinct sets of impacts forming. The middle stripe was first so it doesn't bother me that it walks side to side 1/4moa.
  • Moving up and to the left we have 4 groups from my 26" .338WinMag tube shooting Federal Premium Safari .338WinMag 210gr Nosler Partition. This is shots 21-40 out of the barrel. I've never seen a .338WM that could stack 'em like this. Great job SAC! The couple flyers are very likely my fault. Zero shift is bigger than the group size but the group size is TINY so for what this barrel is meant to do, meat shooting inside 400m, it's totally satisfactory. The walk is ovate and mostly lateral.
  • In the very center is 3.6 groups from my factory DT 26" .338 Lapua Magnum barrel shooting Prime 300gr retail ammo. I wussed out before finishing the final group. The brake on my .338LM is factory Desert Tech and sucks absolute monkey dick. I was flinching like a weakling kid wearing no green on St. Patricks Day. Recoil with the factory brake is enough to shake my brain around and after 20 shots from a bench sitting up in a non-optimal position I was not feeling entirely well, a little punch drunk really. Return to zero was better than my ability to not be a flinchy beyotch.
  • At the far right is 5 groups from my 26" SAC-made .308Win pipe running 175gr Sierra Match King's from Sierra's own M118LR clone. Return to zero with that barrel is well inside my group size. At some point around round 14 or 15 I lost focus and obliterated my aim point and the overall multi-group size started to open up, then the barrel induced mirage started to get properly severe and it opened up a bit more. I think of that barrel as having no zero shift.
  • The24" SAC-made .223 barrel put 35 rounds of Hornady Black 75gr JHP through a ~.75" hole on a separate paper target but that target got shredded by wind mid-relay and it flew over the hill before I could snap a pic. I was pretty stunned at the return to zero on it.
Barrel install procedure is slide it in (yeah, say those words again... "sliiiiiide it in"), close the bolt, set the lock, point the barrel up, hold the barrel at the brake and put clockwise hand-tight torque load on it while setting each clamping screw finger tight top to bottom, let go of the muzzle device, set full torque with Seekonk driver top to bottom using one clean motion from turn initiation to the click for each screw, unset the lock.

I suppose few of us have done this kind of testing in a careful manner. The results both were and were not surprising. Or, should I say, some of the results were more surprising than others.

In other news, the latest iteration of case foam came in. Really liking this version. It's a lot easier to deal with as far as weight distribution and having things where I need them and them being easy to remove. Really nicely finished out the whole "deployment kit" aspect.
img_6910.jpg


img_6911.jpg


img_6912.jpg


Yes, it's over 100lbs with loaded mags in the bottome shelf and extra ammo in the top shelf but it's only about 85lbs as shown. It's fiercely heavy, true, but it's a lot lighter than 4 gun cases with 1 rifle each and the whole thing fits in the back seat of my 2001 Mustang Cobra.
 
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Decided it'd been too long since I flipped a bang switch so I linked up with a buddy I shoot PRS with that needed to zero his newest match rifle configuration. We went to a nearby public range which was mysteriously nearly bereft of shooters. I wanted to do another zero-shift test since my barrels are all still pretty new.

Here's the target. Each of the black shoot-n-see's has at least 15 shots on it. Depended on how much ammo I had on-hand which was mostly what was in the magazines already. For each one I'd shoot a string of 5 shots, pull the barrel out, reinstall the barrel and shoot 5 more as fast as I could at the same aim point, at least until I obliterated the aim point... then I'd guess where to aim as best I could.

img_6926.jpg

  • Starting at the bottom is 3 groups from my 26" (pretty sure it's SAC made) 6XC barel firing David Tubb's retail ammo with HBN coated 115gr DTAC's. Zero shift is inside the normal group size so it passes muster. You can see 3 distinct sets of impacts forming. The middle stripe was first so it doesn't bother me that it walks side to side 1/4moa.
  • Moving up and to the left we have 4 groups from my 26" .338WinMag tube shooting Federal Premium Safari .338WinMag 210gr Nosler Partition. This is shots 21-40 out of the barrel. I've never seen a .338WM that could stack 'em like this. Great job SAC! The couple flyers are very likely my fault. Zero shift is bigger than the group size but the group size is TINY so for what this barrel is meant to do, meat shooting inside 400m, it's totally satisfactory. The walk is ovate and mostly lateral.
  • In the very center is 3.6 groups from my factory DT 26" .338 Lapua Magnum barrel shooting Prime 300gr retail ammo. I wussed out before finishing the final group. The brake on my .338LM is factory Desert Tech and sucks absolute monkey dick. I was flinching like a weakling kid wearing no green on St. Patricks Day. Recoil with the factory brake is enough to shake my brain around and after 20 shots from a bench sitting up in a non-optimal position I was not feeling entirely well, a little punch drunk really. Return to zero was better than my ability to not be a flinchy beyotch.
  • At the far right is 5 groups from my 26" SAC-made .308Win pipe running 175gr Sierra Match King's from Sierra's own M118LR clone. Return to zero with that barrel is well inside my group size. At some point around round 14 or 15 I lost focus and obliterated my aim point and the overall multi-group size started to open up, then the barrel induced mirage started to get properly severe and it opened up a bit more. I think of that barrel as having no zero shift.
  • The24" SAC-made .223 barrel put 35 rounds of Hornady Black 75gr JHP through a ~.75" hole on a separate paper target but that target got shredded by wind mid-relay and it flew over the hill before I could snap a pic. I was pretty stunned at the return to zero on it.
Barrel install procedure is slide it in (yeah, say those words again... "sliiiiiide it in"), close the bolt, set the lock, point the barrel up, hold the barrel at the brake and put clockwise hand-tight torque load on it while setting each clamping screw finger tight top to bottom, let go of the muzzle device, set full torque with Seekonk driver top to bottom using one clean motion from turn initiation to the click for each screw, unset the lock.

I suppose few of us have done this kind of testing in a careful manner. The results both were and were not surprising. Or, should I say, some of the results were more surprising than others.

In other news, the latest iteration of case foam came in. Really liking this version. It's a lot easier to deal with as far as weight distribution and having things where I need them and them being easy to remove. Really nicely finished out the whole "deployment kit" aspect.
img_6910.jpg


img_6911.jpg


img_6912.jpg


Yes, it's over 100lbs with loaded mags in the bottome shelf and extra ammo in the top shelf but it's only about 85lbs as shown. It's fiercely heavy, true, but it's a lot lighter than 4 gun cases with 1 rifle each and the whole thing fits in the back seat of my 2001 Mustang Cobra.
Fucking BAMF.