How hard is it for a guy with a high tech CNC to take measurements and machine something like that?
Of course it would have to get heat treated and all....
Serious question because I know a guy with a high tech CNC...
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How hard is it for a guy with a high tech CNC to take measurements and machine something like that?
Of course it would have to get heat treated and all....
Serious question because I know a guy with a high tech CNC...
It depends on his experience and tools. Accurate measurements, and a CAD / CAM system helps. Knowing the type and alloy of the steel, and the heat treat specifications. HTI and SRS bolt heads can be measured, and hardness checked, and with the right equipment the steel alloy can be determined. Experience in the above, and with firearms manufacturing would be a plus.
For DT, this would be easy as they already have the drawings. They just need to change the bolt face diameter and slightly reposition the extractor or change the extractor shape to work with the .338 case.
Several years back, a neighbor bought an SRS a1 on a desert tech close out deal when the a2 was coming out. He got a .473 bolt or .308 type bolt head as well as a lapua bolt. I did some barrels for it, but nothing for the .308 bolt. I bought that bolt when I bought my srs a1. I been using it, but it's a pita, the firing pin hole has a relief cut around it, and primers wash into that relief. It was a bad idea to relieve the edge of the hole. But whatever. It's a bad part made by dt on their behalf. So I sent an email, request to change the bolt for a good one. I don't care if they swap a bolt head or complete bolt. Got an RMA request, filled it out. I sent the bolt. Of course they want the complete conversion kit. But why? It's a part they made that isn't right. It's really simple. So I sent the bolt alone.....now were going round and round, I'll be lucky to get a junk by back without having to pay them. Anyone with some degree of intelligence, and some mechanical aptitude, an understanding of firearms and basic physics would simply swap the bolt. The bolt I have has a much higher potential of blowing a primer around the firing pin, which I'd prefer not to have my face on top of. But it's dt.
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I have seen a few bolts come through the shop like that. They were all immediately swapped out by DT.
I know. But I'm just going to guess today they'll want $50 for an inspection fee, and $15 to send me my bolt back. If im lucky . Maybe they'll ask for $50 ospe, and $50 cleaning and return shipping. We'll see. I'm really good at drinking and insulting people. And I can even be good at insults without drinking! . I'll take the existing junk bowl , bush the firing pin hole.... assuming I get it back. But I really need to call out to spr and just get a new one on the way
I have never been asked to pay an inspection fee, or cleaning fee, nor heard of DT charging either. If they attempt to charge those fees please let us know.
We have plenty of bolt assemblies on hand if you need one.
We have plenty of bolt assemblies on hand if you need one.
My DT rep just dropped by, I told him about the issue you were having, he said to give him a call. Shoot me a PM and I'll send you over my DT rep's contact info.
I had a 300WM bolt come with a chamfered firing pin hole .. Carson from DT organised a replacement ASAP..
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There's no reason for an intervention from another party. Another round of emails today, an incompetence on dt part to replace a part they manufactured incorrectly. The few hundred bucks to buy another bolt is a bargain in comparison to buying more rifles from them in the future.
If you'd like my help, I'm happy to get my rep involved and get this taken care of for you.
yep. The ones we had come through our shop last year were the SRS-BL-BR or .300 WM Bolt assemblies that had the chamfer around the firing pin hole. It causes some major pressure signs on the primer.
Ha, another round of dumb ass emails and excuses from dt. How the warranty manager needs me to send more parts so they can inspect them to make sure the bolt they manufactured with a chamfer around the firing pin hole is the problem. I sent a nice email back explaining the importance of measuring, how in the manufacturing facility they should have a cmm or coordinate mapping machine and they should be able to measure. Or a much simpler solution is to find a competent person, insert the bolt into a barrel extension and use a good old fashioned depth micrometer to measure bolt face to extension face. Compare it to a new bolt and then get it sent out. At this point it's just fun. Weather I see my old bolt back or an actual good one is irrelevant, they have made it very easy to not purchase rifles or products from them at this point. It doesn't have to be so difficult.
I’ve had the A1 and now A2. When I bought my A1 the trigger did not function or adjust as advertised. I contacted DT and they asked for a picture. They were surprised and said it was a prototype trigger that was never meant for production. They asked if I was comfortable/skill to remove the trigger. They shipped me a new one. Worked as advertised. They also sent me some swag for the inconvenience.
I enjoy the A2 for what it is. It’s unique but not perfect.
I enjoy the A2 for what it is. It’s unique but not perfect.
Lots of negative energy here
We're fooling ourselves if we think DT is listening. Even if they are, it won't filter up to NY and even if it does, directives won't filter back down to address the problems. Cuz that's just how they roll. New warranty people every 6 months doesn't work for consistent CS
We're fooling ourselves if we think DT is listening. Even if they are, it won't filter up to NY and even if it does, directives won't filter back down to address the problems. Cuz that's just how they roll. New warranty people every 6 months doesn't work for consistent CS
I did get an email with a shipping notification. So we'll see but I'm guessing a new bolt is on the way. Problems always arise but they sure make it hard to deal with in comparison to other companies.
It’s days like today when I think of Elon Musk and my Tesla: just because you hate the artist doesn’t mean you can’t love the art
The SRS and I were on fire today.
This is load development on my new ES tactical 260 barrel.
The 308 is my original barrel 10 years old and 5000+ rounds same seating depth as when I got it. It has lost its edge a little bit, but not much. Two of them just didn’t want to fall in line with the rest.
Then there is the universal favorite: SAC 223
The SRS and I were on fire today.
This is load development on my new ES tactical 260 barrel.
The 308 is my original barrel 10 years old and 5000+ rounds same seating depth as when I got it. It has lost its edge a little bit, but not much. Two of them just didn’t want to fall in line with the rest.
Then there is the universal favorite: SAC 223
I may have asked you this before, but is that a SAC adjustable butt pad? I know they’ve made some in the past. Nice shooting BTW.
I think one of the SAAC guys was making them for a while, but he quit doing it. It’s a little heavier than the stock one, but I just have the stock one in my shooting bag and can swap them out.
And thanks
And thanks
Just picked up a Desert Tech M2 on trade with a couple insite barrels.
The 223 is a SAC bolt head, insite barrel, SAC mag (which is amazing). It shot extremely well with some hand loads I already had(see pics), but the ejection is weak. It usually leaves the case on top of the mag. Does anyone have any recommendations? Maybe stronger extractor spring?
I mean it’s printing beautiful groups at 676 yards so I’m not complaining lol just be nice for coyotes to not have to worry about it for follow up shots
The 6.5 CM shot well as well with some pre developed loads I had (3/4 moa I know I can get it shooting the same with some load development). Hard extracting on my handloads though which was surprising, they shoot really well in my other insite/impact 6.5, are finger smooth extracting but the desert tech I had to pick the gun up and smack the bolt down with the palm of my hand. I full length size my brass so I didn’t think it would be an issue but I’m thinking it could be? Peterson brass.
I tried some factory hornady and nosler stuff and with the exception of the first round which was a little stiff, they all ejected fine.
Any tips would be great
The 223 is a SAC bolt head, insite barrel, SAC mag (which is amazing). It shot extremely well with some hand loads I already had(see pics), but the ejection is weak. It usually leaves the case on top of the mag. Does anyone have any recommendations? Maybe stronger extractor spring?
I mean it’s printing beautiful groups at 676 yards so I’m not complaining lol just be nice for coyotes to not have to worry about it for follow up shots
The 6.5 CM shot well as well with some pre developed loads I had (3/4 moa I know I can get it shooting the same with some load development). Hard extracting on my handloads though which was surprising, they shoot really well in my other insite/impact 6.5, are finger smooth extracting but the desert tech I had to pick the gun up and smack the bolt down with the palm of my hand. I full length size my brass so I didn’t think it would be an issue but I’m thinking it could be? Peterson brass.
I tried some factory hornady and nosler stuff and with the exception of the first round which was a little stiff, they all ejected fine.
Any tips would be great
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with regard to ejection, first run the bold HARD HARD HARD. If that doesn't work, then look at ejector springs and all that.
And if I bought it used, I'd disassemble the bolt and clean the shit out of it, etc. Same with rifle.
As regards difficult bolt lift, that's the same things as it usually is. Your loads are hot in this barrel or improperly resized for it. Don't expect retards I mean reloads from another chamber to run in a new/different chamber. Fire some new/factory brass, reload THAT with .003 shoulder bump before you blame the gun. And make sure you're not jammed in the lands creating excess pressure. In a nutshell don't expect retards I mean reloads from another application to work in this one.
BTW those are great groups, once you get your chambering sorted out you will be GTG
And if I bought it used, I'd disassemble the bolt and clean the shit out of it, etc. Same with rifle.
As regards difficult bolt lift, that's the same things as it usually is. Your loads are hot in this barrel or improperly resized for it. Don't expect retards I mean reloads from another chamber to run in a new/different chamber. Fire some new/factory brass, reload THAT with .003 shoulder bump before you blame the gun. And make sure you're not jammed in the lands creating excess pressure. In a nutshell don't expect retards I mean reloads from another application to work in this one.
BTW those are great groups, once you get your chambering sorted out you will be GTG
Take a magic marker, draw a line on the shoulder your brass and on the case web. Just chamber a fired round and see if it's tight on the web, or the shoulder, or both. Also try it on a sized piece. One factor to consider on the desert tech is the 3 lug bolt design. It's really nice as far as less degrees of rotation needed to lock lugs or unlock. But it's also less degrees of rotation to cam open, or break the shell loose after firing. Or in laymen's terms, it's a shorter ramp. And with the dt, it's all done on the barrel extension to bolt handle. It is what it is,
It was the ejector spring on the 223 I swapped it out for a longer/stiffer one (lol) and it works perfectly now. Run the bolt fast or slow it’s perfect.
The bolt lift is light, there is zero signs of pressure on the case, the primer isn’t flattened, cratered or anything. I understand the difference between a 90 and a 60 degree throw and having to reset the same spring.
What I think it is, even though I’m full length sizing, I think this chamber must be tighter in the body than my other 6.5 even though it’s the same gun smith for both.
Weird part about it is my chamber in the other gun is tight, a full length size only moves it .002 on the shoulder. Measuring with the same case gauge I get 1.914 fired brass on the DT barrel so it’s close to the same. Inspecting the DT chamber it’s clean. The bore scope shows nothing. Interesting fact about this is my buddy’s browning 6.5 the case gauge reads 1.918 on fired brass.
And considering factory brass works fine, it must be the brass, am I talking myself into buying more brass? Maybe ,but in my mind it’s the only factor.
If anyone is interested on a great deal on an OD Green 6.5CM SRS A2, my post is up on the classifieds. Less than 200 rounds through and cosmetically brand new.
Can anyone tell me the max barrel shank diameter on the srs? Looking into an a2 for structured barrels
The barrel shank diameter is 1.2500" +0/-.0015" do not go over 1.2500" on an A2 as they are known to be held to a tighter tolerance than the A1's
Starting at 8.5” you will want 0.025” clearance on either side for peace of mind
I have a full 1.250 in my A1
Works great
It should because that's what it is supposed to be. However, from what others have said, the A1's have been a bit loose with their tolerances and will allow barrels larger than 1.2500 to be installed. On the other hand, A2's have been held tighter to accept 1.2500 maximum diameter, not over.
Thank you for the quick reply. I'm actually kind of surprised it's that small.
Yes, the diameter of the clamping mechanism has changed, but so has the design of the chassis to allow the A2 hand guard and the area where it clamps several inches forward of the barrel clamping mechanism also has a diameter of exactly 1.250 inches so the old trick that I used to do Buying a non-tapered 1.250 inch straight blank is no longer advisable
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Thanks for the information and pictures, I don't have a A2 or M2, but am interested in the differences from the A1. Do you have pictures of the handguard? Or any thoughts on different handguards?
It's just the MLOK style handguard that goes on the A2/M2 with 4 tiny screws. I think it's proprietary but I'm not sure. Complete redesign from the A1 with no cross-compatibility. At least you don't need the special tool to swap it. Would be very simple to make an aftermarket one that would bolt right on teh same way the stock one on the A2 does
Wasn't there someone on this thread making custom handguards recently?
Thanks
@Jrtex made it. It’s awesome for his first attempt…I bought one after I saw the prototype. I have an EST 16.5” hunter with 6.5C with a TBAC on perfect for hunting whitetail in Tennessee. Comes in at 33” OAL same as my SBR. That’s a 22” barrel in the rifle above it. Also your hand does not get cold holding the hand guard in the winter.
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I have to ask, what clip-on system are you using?
Sorry, I’m only answering wall related questions.
It’s a pulsar krypton 2. Has been decent
Are those 8x12 blocks? Hard to gauge size with the DTA. Were the blocks MUSA or Chinesium?
Yeah 8x12, whatever concrete they use for them here. 40m worth. Was a fun week and a half.
.375 CT | .408 CT | .416 Barret | .50 BMG | |
| Barrel Length | 29" | 29" | 29" | 29" |
| Barrel Twist | 1:10.5 | 1:13 | 1:13 | 1:15 |
| Muzzle Thread Pitch | M22x1.5 - 6H | M22x1.5 - 6H | M25x1.5 - 6H | M25x1.5 - 6H |
| Weight | 19.5lb | 20.35lb | 20.35lb | 19.9lb |
| Length Overall | 45" | 45" | 45.75" | 45.75" |
| Magazine Capacity | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 |
| Range | 2750m | 2550m | 2300m | 2200m |
| Action | Bolt Action | Bolt Action | Bolt Action |
