Easy to cut the skins out if needed. You’ll need to pull your skins and see if you have a large threaded hole at the rear of your chassis. If so, you can just screw the monopod in and trim the skins.
- Thread starter patches
- Start date
Easy to cut the skins out if needed. You’ll need to pull your skins and see if you have a large threaded hole at the rear of your chassis. If so, you can just screw the monopod in and trim the skins.
So, then. Is the SRS A1 the same thing as an SRS GEN2?
Every A1 is a Gen2. Not every Gen2 is an A1
https://deserttech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3380
https://deserttech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3380
No, several machined differences, and different skins. Same barrels and bolts though.
How much weight did you save going to the proof barrel?
Dunno, you’d have to ask PRDriver.
For me, I have all my zeros written down. I set my scope zero for my 6.5 SAUM , since its my favorite round to shoot. So the scope is set to 0.
If I run my .338 Norma Mag AI. I simply dial the scope to -17.6 mils, ( so I don't have the zero stop set, and dial down) and dial my wind from 0 to .7R. Then I'm zeroed now at 100 yards. I either dial from there or use hold overs.
I'm running a Beast with a H59 reticle.
I have my zero stop actually set, on my elevation, for my slowest cartridge, my 6.5 Creedmoor. If that made sense
Not enough to justify the cost. I know a pound is a pound, but I couldn't swallow the cost difference for that little of weight savings
What would you guys think is a good price for a lightly used Gen 2 Covert Chassis?
Just the chsssis? No barrels , mags etc...
Yep. Chassis alone. Not an A1.
The other day inspired by listening to the podcast I pulled my DTA RSR A1 from the safe, I remember my last range trip ended with me firing maybe 20 shots before giving up, I was all over the place, I went from clover leafing at 100m during my previous visit to the range (im by no means a disciplined shooter) to peppering the target with a 2" group at 100m! I figured I was out of practice or just in extremely poor form. Fast forward to 2 days ago, reed up from listening to the podcast I picked up my rifle from the grip as it took it from the safe I noticed the front grip was loose! Could this have been the cause to my crappy range day? regardless I needed to do something about it. I rang both the original importer and they no longer dealt with desert tech and the current importer couldn't find the tool listed, Time to channel MacGyver.... Because the retaining nut in the grip was loose I was able to make a makeshift tool to remove the front grip and nut, measured it up and fired the 3D printer up and came up with this! its printed in PLA so I dont expect it to last more than a few times but to get me out of a bind it seems to have done the job. Excuse the grotty fingers im a diesel mechanic and its just a way of life. Id share the stl file for those who want to print their own but last time I shared a tool I designed my thingiverse account was suspended.........
How annoying is it to swap the handguard on the A1? I want a .223 conversion but not a long barrel.
Definitely helped! thanks!
Hey all, I'm in the market for a couple of new calibers and was hoping to get some input from the community. I'm looking for a magnum caliber and was wondering if anyone has had any luck with running a .338 Lapua AI, or something similar. I already have a 300 NM, love it, just want something larger for ELR.
Also, I'm wanting to replace my 6.5CM now, it's pretty much shot out now. Was wondering if there was a better option out of the 6.5 SAUM, 6.5 PRC, 6.5x284, etc. Does one run through the mag/platform easier than another? This barrel would be used for hunting and target shooting.
As always, thank you very much in advance for your help.
Also, I'm wanting to replace my 6.5CM now, it's pretty much shot out now. Was wondering if there was a better option out of the 6.5 SAUM, 6.5 PRC, 6.5x284, etc. Does one run through the mag/platform easier than another? This barrel would be used for hunting and target shooting.
As always, thank you very much in advance for your help.
It sounds like you’re a reloader that is OK with pricey cartridges and if you need a new 6.5 that is peppier than the Creed you might as well go with the 6.5 SAUM. Just make sure to send a magazine to Desert tech solutions for Delrin insert mod and tweaking and you are good to go.
I don't think you will be able to run a 338 Lapua AI because of the shape of the Desert Tech mags. Specifically where the mag "bottle neck" is to catch the case shoulder.
I have a .338 Lapua AI Barrel for my SRS and it’s works and feeds perfectly.
Did you do anything to your mag for the ai?
I run the 6.5 SAUM and modified the mags myself, it runs flawlessly.
I also have a .338 Norma Magnum AI, it rubs flawlessly in the standard msgnum mags.
Go 6.5 SAUM, I have had hits out to 1,800 yards with the 130 grains
Had a few people ask for the .stl file I made up for the 3d printed hand guard tool so ive put it up for you all to use, ive now seen the OEM tool and my rendition looks nothing like the original tool so there is no way breaching any intellectual property or anything like that. It is plastic after all so I dont expect a printed tool do last all that long and im sure it could be designed better but it works and will probably last a few uses before I see the 3/8" drive failing. I printed mine with .2mm layer hight, 2mm wall thickness, 30% infill and 2mm bottom and top layers in PLA plastic. Maybe if it was solid with no infill and from ABS plastic it might last longer? I have done this to help out the DTA owners of the hide so please dont distribute the file (or sell it, need I point that out...) Anyways enjoy and I hope it can help someone out.
I now know the original is obviously made of metal, is a 1/2" drive and maybe 1/2" thick, my plastic one was meant to snugly insert into the nut and grip.
I now know the original is obviously made of metal, is a 1/2" drive and maybe 1/2" thick, my plastic one was meant to snugly insert into the nut and grip.
Runs fine in the unmodified mags.
Last edited:
Right on. That’s what I like to hear. Dt running a verity of calibers.
Thinking about ordering this from Eurooptics; Covert handguard for the SRS A1 with key/screw, not castle nut.
Any idea where we are with an aftermarket option? This is $500.
https://www.eurooptic.com/DT-SRS-PK-027-CBK-A1-Desert-Tech-DT-SRS-Upgrade-KIT-from-A1-.aspx
Any idea where we are with an aftermarket option? This is $500.
https://www.eurooptic.com/DT-SRS-PK-027-CBK-A1-Desert-Tech-DT-SRS-Upgrade-KIT-from-A1-.aspx
Does DTA still make these kits?
I was under the impression that they were no longer offered as you can not find one in stock anywhere online.
Will a Sphur 4602 mount clear a 56 mm objective with room to add caps of some sort or is there a better height than 1.5"?
Anybody with an HTI toying with the idea of a 375CT? Starter kit here: https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...375-cheytac-factory-barrel-bolt-used.6873948/
This STL file opened up as almost a partial shell for me, any chance it got corrupted or you could email it to me?
Hi Tyler, I will look into it when I get home from work, it’s the same file I fed into cura so it should have worked unless something went wrong when I uploaded it. Pm me with your email and I will send you the file and see if that helps. Can I ask what program your using to open it with. I made the file on sketch up and tho I can design and print stuff I’m far from an expert at it so it might be something I did during the creation of the model. Thanks for the feedback tho
Does anyone have experience with a SB PMII 5-25 mounted on their DTA? Looking at one to mount on a new SRS A1 in an ARC 30 Moa mount but see these "only" have 65 MOA of elevation. Wondering what I might expect for total usable elevation with this combo with a 100 Yard Zero. Original plan was to mount a Razor Gen 2 that I have yet to open however I am not crazy over the open center of the crosshairs.
65 is a typo... S&B 5-25's actually have 26mils of elevation (~90 MOA).
This is correct. I have a S&B 5-25 on mine in a DT 30 moa mount and have about 24 mils of elevation available with a 100 yard zero.
Twitch, for me the 1.5" is the sweet spot for scope mount height for cheek weld on the srs. I have a Nightforce ATACR 5-25x56 mounted in a Spuhr SP-4902 (1.5", 30 MOA) and I have about 0.145" clearance between the top of the picatinny rail and the OD of the objective. I have the covert rail so screwing on the NF caps is fine with the sunshade and it takes a bit of finesse to get it on without the sunshade. If you have the longer SRS A1 rail, you will probably need something similar to the two piece nightforce caps with the removable tenebraex threaded insert.
That's what I needed to know. Thanks!
I thought the same thing but if you look at the moa version on Eurooptic that's what it shows. The mil scopes all show more travel so I don't know what's up with that.
https://www.eurooptic.com/schmidt-bender-pmii-5-25x56-p4fine-moa-reticle-dt-1-4-moa-ccw-turret.aspx
I haven't ever owned a s&b in moa, so I can't confirm from experience.
Though JerryR from s&b has stated a few times over the years it's a typo copied from s&b literature and that all 5-25's have the same internal elevation travel.
Does anyone have suggestions on how to reliably decrease the SRS bolt lift? My rifle only has approx. 500 rds. through it, so I imagine it will lighten up a bit, but I am shooting a bit of PRS comps. with it and would sure like to smooth it out a bit if possible.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Oh ok. I didn't realize one of the guys from S&B said it was a typo. That would suck to spend that much on a scope with so little travel.
Mobile 1 synthetic SAE 30 or similar and lots and lots of bolt throws. Mine SRS with over 7000 rounds is way smoother than new, but part of bolt lift "force" is from the spring, so I'm not sure that feeling is going to change.
Does anyone have experience (good or bad) with the Flatline family of projectiles in the DT platform? Specifically wondering about the 121 gr. for 6.5CM (1:8 twist) and the 180 and 198 grains for 300 win mag (1:9 twist). From what I've read here on the Hide, not many have been able to get the 121's to work, but Frank's right up on them has me all excited to try them out.
I just ordered a factory 308 barrel for my SRS from Euro-optics but they don't have any factory muzzle brakes in stock. I know the thread pitch on these is 3/4 x 24 which seems to not be very common. What muzzle brake would you guys recommend?
If the factory brake is the best choice, what vendors might have them in stock?
If the factory brake is the best choice, what vendors might have them in stock?
3/4 x 24 is a fairly common magnum caliber thread pitch. Just about any brand brake will have this thread pitch available, you just need to look at their magnum offerings.
I saw a couple of used DT brake in the EE here or AR15.com recently. Can’t remember which.
