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Rifle Scopes Please critique my NF mounting(DIY)

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Serbu50

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Minuteman
Mar 6, 2013
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#1
I decided to mount this setup on my .308 myself. Perhaps if I step up the capabilities with another rifle, I might have a pro do it. Anyway, I spent my money on what I think is a decent beginner rifle and glass (MOAR) NF. I set the eye relief on what felt ok on the cheek weld and what seemed naturally focused. I'm setting myself up for forum punishment, hopefully I'll get constructive thoughts. Have I done anything obviously wrong? The rings are tight yet FYI. Thanks for your suggestions up to this point.
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#2
You shouldn't need a pro to mount your scope for you. It's easy to do.

Nothing seems out of the ordinary with your set up, but all the inspection stickers and tags look a little goofy. You'll know it's level when you get to the range.

Here are a couple of tips for you to level your scope.:
- If you get a couple of levels, try to get a level rifle and put the scope on level
- with the rifle on a level bench, level the scope against a plumb bob downrange
- get a feeler gauge at an automotive store. with your rifle level, mount your scope on the feeler gauge
 
#3
Looks good. The only two things I might do different on my rifle is use better quality rings ( NF, Badger Seekins etc) and maybe a lower ring ( personal preference).

There are plenty of tutorials on scope mounting. Get the right tools (torque wrench, level, plumb bob or feeler gauges )and don't let the "pros" near your rig. Mounting a scope is a very personal thing and no one can fine tune your scope to your needs better than you can.
Now go shoot and give us a range report!
 
#4
I purchased 3 small precision levels. I leveled the rifle, the mount, and the scope. I bought NF rings, and ended up saving them for my .50 bmg. I figured the .308 wouldn't kill the Burris rings like the 50 might. I studied a lot of videos and read a fair amount about squaring and leveling. I also made sure to push the mounts forward in the rail slots too. This was the first time I have used a torque wrench ( mini snap on) with little machine screws. I believe I have been over tightening little screws for years!!!! A quality torque wrench doesn't lie though. Thanks a lot guys.
 
#5
You should check the flatness of the rail with a steel machinist's ruler. Savage receiver tops are seldom even and this will bow your rail when you torque it down. If the rail is bowed, your rings will conform and torque the scope tube.
 
#6
I have an old Starrett steel level that I used to level the rifle to begin with. I'm glad you mentioned that because I just had heard that some Savages were not quite level. I checked it a few ways... That rail was also straight. They mated perfectly and screwed down nice and level.
 
#7
Slap some feeler gauges between the base and the bottom of the scope and you won't need any levels. The feeler gauges are more accurate anyhow. Put two bubble levels back to back on a table and see how they read.... Should be a fun setup, I ran a similar rig for years, the savages shoot nice. Oh yeah, take that red condom off the elevation knob :)
 
#13
Please critique my NF mounting(DIY)

I got those zee's just to learn to setup the scope without marring it up. Once I feel comfortable , I'll grab some scope mounts more appropriate. Thanks for your input. I have a set of Badger rings for a 30mm tube that I won in a silent auction for $120 new in box. Are they decent? They look beefy with 6 screw mounting.
 
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#16
Two gorgeous days here this weekend. So I went out and fired the Savage. I am so new to this sport so please forgive me! I took some hornady match loads with me for sighting it in. I borrowed a laser bore site for my 100 yard sighting in. Damned if my poa/poi was not very close. Close enough to get started. I cleaned the barrel after each shot for the first 10 rounds and then put 10 rounds through it without cleaning. I'm shooting from a bipod, not a bench rest... So I was a little bit squirrelly but they were all MOA or better. I took a break, came back, and at 200 yards, every shot was very close to 3/4 Moa. Moved back to 300 then 400. I can't believe with store bought ammo that I was shooting honestly 1 Moa at a little more than 450 yards but not 500. I burned up more ammo making turret changes than an experienced shooter, but that was cool as heck. Now I need a ThunderBeast can... And reload myself. And and and. Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate it.
 
#17
The only thing I can see is that your cheek weld may not be high enough. If your neck is hurting, try beefing up the comb of the butt.
 
#18
teju5y9e.jpg

Check weld seems comfortable... Didn't seem too low. Anyway, tad over 400 yards bench rest. I felt pretty good. Top 3 were the first 3 after adjusting my scope a little. Then the bottom 3 I used a small bag under the back of the stock and it really tightened me up with no adjustments. Shooting 147 grain.
 
#19
Serbu50 said:
Now I need a ThunderBeast can... And reload myself. And and and. Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate it.
Click to expand...
Speaking as a shooter somewhat new to this sport (really started getting into 2 years ago), it can attest that your "and, and, and, and" list will never stop growing. The only thing that changes will be the price on the equipment you "need"! You must not be all that new though if you were holding MOA at 450 yards with factory 147 gr ammo in an off the shelf Savage. You should pat yourself on the back for that, because it's not an easy feat. I would get lower rings though whenever you upgrade. American Rifle Company makes nice rings, and they clamp together at the top so when you're mounting your scope it doesn't get twisted when you're torquing the rings down. I freakin' hate that! The lower rings will allow for a more consistent cheek weld, and based on my limited experience and things I've learned, consistency is everything.
 
#20
Serbu50 said:
teju5y9e.jpg

Check weld seems comfortable... Didn't seem too low. Anyway, tad over 400 yards bench rest. I felt pretty good. Top 3 were the first 3 after adjusting my scope a little. Then the bottom 3 I used a small bag under the back of the stock and it really tightened me up with no adjustments. Shooting 147 grain.
Click to expand...

Your gun shot a .75" group at 400yds with 147gr? Factory ball I assume? Sub 1/4moa.
 
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#23
Sorry guys, I don't post pics using tap talk. It posted the wrong picture. The bottom is 100 yards, top is 425ish yards. I apologize for the pic being wrong. I shot 4 times at 100, 4 at 400+. I needed to keep better notes on my pics!
 
#24
This was a huge eye opener and humbled me. I now realize how such a tiny change in cheek weld, or shouldering makes a crazy difference down range. Planning on a steep curve ahead!
 
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