round stuck in ar chamber
- Thread starter Belisarius
- Start date
Looks like the rim is already destroyed(?)
I have gotten a few with a small knife or flat blade after separating the upper - but only if they aren't that bad.
I would separate the upper, pull the bolt, insert a full length cleaning rod, hold it away from my face in case anything weird happened, and tap it out.
As an illustrative point, this (and more commonly spent rounds that are stuck in the chamber) are why some trainers advocate keeping a sectioned cleaning rod attached to an AR to be used for social purposes.
I have gotten a few with a small knife or flat blade after separating the upper - but only if they aren't that bad.
I would separate the upper, pull the bolt, insert a full length cleaning rod, hold it away from my face in case anything weird happened, and tap it out.
As an illustrative point, this (and more commonly spent rounds that are stuck in the chamber) are why some trainers advocate keeping a sectioned cleaning rod attached to an AR to be used for social purposes.
Yep, cleaning rod + light hammer taps.
Hmmm......
Now I am second guessing myself due to it being a live round. I'd start with LIGHT hammer taps.
Hmmm......
Now I am second guessing myself due to it being a live round. I'd start with LIGHT hammer taps.
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JBWeld the muzzle shut and hit that primer with a punch and hammer. The shell will release. The just cut off the split/bulged area of the barrel and make a SBR.
(Due to the overwhelming amount of responses I have received from mouth-breathers, Don't actually try this at home it is dangerous.)
(Due to the overwhelming amount of responses I have received from mouth-breathers, Don't actually try this at home it is dangerous.)
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Tap out is fine but put rags in the ejection port to keep the round from hitting something inside the receiver and discharging it.
Solid metal cleaning rod or a 12 inch piece of solid drill rod and NO HAMMER. Hitting the rod with a hammer will only cause the rod to flex and soften the blow to the case and/or mushroom the rod. Pick the most solid & heavy rod possible that will fit.
Instead, hold the rifle muzzle up and toss the rod down the bore. It may take several tries but it will drive the case out with no risk to the rod bending or mushrooming and making the situation worse
Instead, hold the rifle muzzle up and toss the rod down the bore. It may take several tries but it will drive the case out with no risk to the rod bending or mushrooming and making the situation worse
ok, this may be bad, but last time i had one i just beat on the forward assist till bolt locked, recocked hammer by hand, then and let the primer ignition release it for me. then started using small base dies.
That's a waste of a good punch...hold the muzzel in your left hand and use a Bic lighter flame on the primer!
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Seriously, muzzel down and a good dose of Kroil on the case head. It will deactivate the primer and lube the case walls. Leave it this way overnight and it will tap out in the morning.
I had this happen to me "only" once. It was one of my reloads. I used a cleaning rod and a hammer to knock it out from the muzzle. When the .223 bullet & case came out there was a granule of Varget imbedded in the outside of the case. This is what caused the round to become jammed in the chamber. I then realized that I was not cleaning the lube used while sizing off the reloaded ammo good enough and spilled powder was sticking to them. From then on I have ALWAYS sprayed alcohol on an old clean towel and then put the reloaded bullets in the wet towel and rolled them around until the lube was removed. Then I lay the cleaned bullets in another clean dry towel and rolled them around until all the alcohol evaporated. That was back in 2000 and I have never had another problem.
Back then I was shooting in High Power and never crimped any of my reloads and still don't and never had a problem. NOT ONCE.
Back then I was shooting in High Power and never crimped any of my reloads and still don't and never had a problem. NOT ONCE.
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That's funny. Unfortunately, that kind of advise could cost someone an arm or leg.
it was only my thumb. Didn't have any JB, so i thought why not my thumb, I use it for all kind of stuff.
Would've taken a picture of it, but threw up and ruined my phone looking at the mess
I don't know about you, but I need my whole arm to keep that pressure in the barrel, my thumb gets weak...
Belisarius
I don't know if my post about crimping applied to your problem or not, but if so you need to crimp with a Lee factory die or a taper crimp die in a seperate ststion on the press or a seperate operation on you single stage. Or just not crimp at all, the majority seems to advocate not crimping.
I crimp mine as above with no further problems. It eases my mind when 90% of my reloads are used in autoloaders.
The Lee crimp dies are commonly available, and my taper crimp dies came from CH4D.
Also there are case gages for 223 and 308 available from JP Rifles that are internally shaped like your chamber. Most if not all other brands are straight-drilled to proper depth. The inside walls are not tapered like your chamber and those gages will NOT catch a collapsed shoulder etc. The JP's were made with actual chamber reamers. All my bulk reloads get dropped in 1 of these before I put it in the ammo can. My goal is 100% reliability.
JP - Gunsmithing and Maintenance
I don't know if my post about crimping applied to your problem or not, but if so you need to crimp with a Lee factory die or a taper crimp die in a seperate ststion on the press or a seperate operation on you single stage. Or just not crimp at all, the majority seems to advocate not crimping.
I crimp mine as above with no further problems. It eases my mind when 90% of my reloads are used in autoloaders.
The Lee crimp dies are commonly available, and my taper crimp dies came from CH4D.
Also there are case gages for 223 and 308 available from JP Rifles that are internally shaped like your chamber. Most if not all other brands are straight-drilled to proper depth. The inside walls are not tapered like your chamber and those gages will NOT catch a collapsed shoulder etc. The JP's were made with actual chamber reamers. All my bulk reloads get dropped in 1 of these before I put it in the ammo can. My goal is 100% reliability.
JP - Gunsmithing and Maintenance
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I thought I lost my brass rod when I left it at the range. Went to both Lowe's and Home Depot and neither had brass rods only steel. Fortunately the range master had notice I left it and saved it for me. I would use the steel rod they sell if you can't find a brass rod. Before I got the brass rod years ago I ruined a cleaning rod by trying to use it to tap out a stuck case. A dowel might also work. But I would try to get it out first as Mike_Honcho suggested with a flat blade screw driver which has also worked for me if the case wasn't to badly stuck.
Squirt plenty of Kroil down the barrel and let it soak muzzle up for a while and if you can get a good grip around the case head with needle nose pliers twist it until it comes out.
Dont use a wood dowel rod to tap it out....the bullet tip will expand the wood around it and wedge both the dowel and the bullet there.
Dont use a wood dowel rod to tap it out....the bullet tip will expand the wood around it and wedge both the dowel and the bullet there.
Hope it works out. I have used the "dropping dowel rod" method whenever that happens. Oil up the primer and case from the front and rear to help.
Shoulder set back
I see a primer strike
A if it is a spent round tap it out with a cleaning rod.
B if it is a love round then separate the upper. Put some padding to collected oil in the upper decked where the bolt goes. Pointed muzzle up and soak the round with some lube (rem oil, clp, liberal tears) from both ends, and tap it out in a few hours.
If it was a new factory round then you would need to check the box and see if a recall was placed.
This particular retard had the same issue until he bought an LE Wilson chamber gauge and a hornady headspace gauge to measure shoulder set back.
LGS must be busy in theory should be an easy fix.
Let us know how it turns out.
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I see a primer strike
A if it is a spent round tap it out with a cleaning rod.
B if it is a love round then separate the upper. Put some padding to collected oil in the upper decked where the bolt goes. Pointed muzzle up and soak the round with some lube (rem oil, clp, liberal tears) from both ends, and tap it out in a few hours.
If it was a new factory round then you would need to check the box and see if a recall was placed.
This particular retard had the same issue until he bought an LE Wilson chamber gauge and a hornady headspace gauge to measure shoulder set back.
LGS must be busy in theory should be an easy fix.
Let us know how it turns out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
+1 on the Wilson & HS Gauges. However I have seen a tight AR chamber where a round passes all the checks but gets stuck on the case sides (not land set or HS issue). SB dies for those cases.
mtrmn that's awesome, I wish I bought one of those instead of the Wilson...sounds like it addresses the "taper-stick" risk I mentioned?
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Curios ... Hmm I have 5.56 mil spec chambers and 1 .223 Remington chamber
I use hornady FL resize dies and thought I needed a small base die, so I bought one. It turns out that I just needed to turn my hornady die down a bit more.
What chamber does the OP have .223/5.56/wyilde...big fat milspec or super tight match...
Also who made it?
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I use hornady FL resize dies and thought I needed a small base die, so I bought one. It turns out that I just needed to turn my hornady die down a bit more.
What chamber does the OP have .223/5.56/wyilde...big fat milspec or super tight match...
Also who made it?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Is the round live? First on a live round I would mortar it on the range.
It involves driving the butt stock into the ground while pulling the charging handle an keeping the muzzle away from your face.
At home on a live round, fill barrel with heavy oil 30W. Then drive a fat brass rod down the barrel.
Fired brass, use fat brass rod to drive it out.
Yahoo mortaring a M16 to see it done.
It involves driving the butt stock into the ground while pulling the charging handle an keeping the muzzle away from your face.
At home on a live round, fill barrel with heavy oil 30W. Then drive a fat brass rod down the barrel.
Fired brass, use fat brass rod to drive it out.
Yahoo mortaring a M16 to see it done.
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the guy at the shop called yesterday, he got it out. Went today to test the rifle, it was rainy and nasty out there. Just perfect. I had a nice 2-3"/ measured it with my fingers/ , 5 shot group at 616 yards on the gong, surprising achievement in the rain for me. I can relax again, it was a loooooong week of anguish pain and uncertainty.
Thank you for all the help!!!
Thank you for all the help!!!
My consulting fee still stands!
You owe me a beer, a bacon sandwich, and 3 midget hookers!
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You owe me a beer, a bacon sandwich, and 3 midget hookers!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Must be the week for this kind of shit as I had the exact thing happen to me at a match this past wekend. You know what 8 pairs of eyes feel like on the back of your head while on the line with a live round stuck? Was my own dumb ass fault for not sizing brass properly. Used a MUT toll to open bolt carrier and was able to get round out. Lesson learned. Can't cheat the reloading rules.
bought the brass years ago from top brass. it was primed ready to go. this was the first one out of 1950 rounds so far. I ran the remaining ammo thru a FL sizer just in case. shot 50 today, all good.
