Gunsmithing RPR Replacement Barrel 6.5 CM LRI or PVA?**Updated with Proof Barrel at post #24**

[USMC 308]

While I still believe the Ruger RPR is a great value for the accuracy it delivers.....I'm getting frustrated with what mine is doing. I'll get 3 shots touching, then 1 of the 5 is off in lala land and I'd call the shot as right where I was aiming. I'm not shooting fast strings and it happens on various shots out of the 5. On a Clean Cold Bore.....I'll get 2 shots touching but when the barrel heats up, my POI is about 1.5 MOA high and stays there. I could deal with this if it were the only issue.....but the inconsistency is maddening.

Time to re-barrel....I knew I would be doing this at some point and I have almost 500 rounds through the factory barrel.

Are the 2 barrels I've narrowed it to basically a toss up? If anyone has experience with either, please let me know your opinion. I've searched and read what is out there but I think a lot was lost in the old Scout RPR threads.

 

[Nodakplowboy]

My second LRI .243 barrel is in the mail from Sturgis. After I toast that one, I'll order another from them. Fit, finish and accuracy is top notch. There's a Sako A2 22-250 AI here that needs re-barreling, that too will go to Sturgis. I like their work.

I Ebayed my factory barrel at 465 rds. Mounted the new barrel, life got way better. Either way you go will be an improvement.

 

[BLKWLFK9]

Either would be from 2 amazing smith's. Everyone knows Chad is a bad ass, and Josh is a damn genius. You can't go wrong. Josh has 2 of my rifles as we speak.

 

[Wannashootit]

JMO...but if the factory barrel was shooting within the parameters expected initially, and it's suddenly putting up "shotgun" groups after just 500 rounds I'd be looking elsewhere for an issue.
Even with relatively hot loads, I wouldn't expect a throat to be cracked out on a Creedmoor after just 500 rounds.

 

[USMC 308]

I should clarify, it's not a sudden occurrence. It shoots just under MOA on average I guess. I'm frustrated when I call a shot that I know should be right there, and it's far enough off where I say to myself, no way that was me.

This picture is perfect example of what I mean. This is not an isolated occurrence....not always this far out, enough to piss me off though.

 

[powercatmd]

I rebarreled a Gen 1 that I traded for with a Proof barrel. Combined with Prime 130gr it is a tackdriver. The Timney RPR trigger was an excellent upgrade as well.

 

[Pakratt99]

PVA mainly because dealing with Josh is such a pleasure. But are you sure that you're running into a barrel issue as the symptoms sound off? If your talking 1.5MOA out on a flier at 100yd that sounds like a rest/form/reloading issue and not something barrel related. Normally when barrels start to taper off its a slow process and you're groups will start to open up before falling off a cliff.....500rd isn't where that normally happens?

 

[USMC 308]

I don't reload, using Hornady 140gr ELD. I don't think its me.....I can usually tell if I pull one or screw up the shot. When it's a good call and I see the impact 1 inch out of the cluster, something gives. If it were a rest issue I would expect to see a shotgun pattern with little consistency. I guess my first instinct is to blame a factory barrel. Scope is a new AMG and rings/mount is solid. I guess theres a chance it could be that but again, I go to barrel as likely offender.

 

[USMC 308]

PVA $600
LRI $575
Proof stainless $433

Thinking Proof to save a few bucks.....from what I read, I won't be sacrificing any accuracy. Anyone with any final info to add?

 

[LRI]

Cut rifle vs button. That's the price difference. Deciding if the difference is worth is personal. Just know most vetted shops tend to lean towards single cut rifled barrels. There's a reason for that.

Good luck on your project.

C.

 

[agbm]

Cut rifle only, by chance are you thinkg of using solids in the future. Flat lines etc. LRI top notch barrels

 

[Forward543]

I think proof are cut rifled, arent they? I think your variation in impact is due to the ammo. Not all guns like all ammo. Im sure that all 3 barrels mentioned are badass, but they may not fix the issue. If you dont handload, try some different rounds, prime gets alot of votes. But if its just one flyer, that round may not be in your barrels sweet spot.

 

[USMC 308]

Everything I've found so far mentions Proof Research barrels are cut. The video below at 1:17 the Proof guy mentions single cut barrel. The barrel I priced was not the carbon fiber wrapped, it was the 416R SS

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAK_0DhCKTU

I did try different ammo......I don't reload.

Winchester Match shot the worst out of my RPR
Prime 130 gr shot good
Hornady ELD 140 shot the best

 

[LRI]

I was under the impression Proof's are button. Learn something every day. Hell, at that price go for it. I can't compete.

 

[Niles Coyote]

While I cant speak for LRI, I can say that my PVA barrel is awesome and part of that awesomeness is how closely/precisely that barrel threads into my RPR action. The Proof barrel I bought from stockystocks is just the opposite and concerned me a little with how loose the thread engagement was. Now that it is together I can say PVA's barrel will shoot tighter groups at distance... 1/3-1/2 moa verses 1/2-2/3 moa with me pulling the trigger. That said, the PVA is a 6.5x47L and the Proof is a 6.5 Creedmoor so some of that could be explained away by the cartridge if your a 6.5x47L fan...

 

[JRM]

Tagging along. I'm in the market for an RPR 6.5 Barrel. Leaning towards LRI with reputation and they just did work on a 700 bolt im more than happy with and super fast turnaround.

 

[TheOE800]

Have never bought anything from Josh. I did however spend DAYS talking to him going over various options, opinions, etc. and in the end I didn't go with getting a rifle from him. He did however, earn my respect, future business, and word of mouth.

 

[TC308]

Proof makes cut and button barrels. At that price, I'd venture to says it's a button, but can't say for sure obviously just guessing.

 

[USMC 308]

Not button cut. All you have to do is read the specs.

 

[TC308]

Not button cut. All you have to do is read the specs.

Didn't see where you posted the specs, but I'm sure it'd be a shooter. Might as well go for it. I just ordered a proof carbon, which is cut so I am hoping they are great. Not really too concerned that it won't be. Now if I could only mentally will my tl3 to show up I'd be in business

 

[LRI]

My guess regarding this is when you have the whole party under one roof, you have some leverage regarding price. Neither Josh or I are in the barrel making trade. The difference in rate is the summary of adding additional mouths to feed.

Probably shoot great. Good luck.

C.

 

[USMC 308]

Decided to try the Proof. It's at a local shop. Will post results when it's done and taken to the range. I hope it shoots more consistently or I will be dropping some more money to get it right. Thanks for the info and opinions given.

 

[JRM]

Keep us posted Brother. I just purchased my 6.5 replacement barrel from Chad at LRI.

 

[USMC 308]

Update.

Late July
Got the rifle back from a local Gunsmith. I did some research on them and nothing bad. I chose to put the original Ruger brake on the Proof barrel. Took rifle out for 4 range trips and 260 rounds fired and still not performing like I wanted. In my frustration, I took the rifle to Mark Pharr of Tumbleweeds Customs in Round Rock for him to look at. He inspected it several times over, found a missing screw that the original smith failed to reinstall. He fixed that and also removed and reinstalled the brake. Supplied him with some ammo, he's a National Highpower competitor...and he could not get it to group either.

Late September
I contacted Proof and referenced my observations as well as Mark's. Proof said to mail the gun to them to check it out. Proof had it for 3 days then sent me the report below. Basically, the original smith did some things that were not to spec as in Red Loc-Tite on the barrel being the most glaring. Proof removed the Ruger brake and but on a APA Little Bastard brake and the 2 range reports are below to see.

Proof said in their opinion, the brake was the culprit. Mark Pharr agreed. It's on it's way back to me and I have an APA LB brake on the way also.

I thanked Proof for getting to the bottom of it and it looks like it's a tack driver. Mark Pharr at Tumbleweeds is excellent too. I'll be using him from now on.

Posting this in case anyone has similar issues....I would try replacing the brake first before replacing the barrel. I hear they are torqued on there very tightly from the factory.

Side not, in my frustration, I bought a Bergara LRP in 6.5CM that shoots great. It definitely feels like a more refined rifle, the action is trued, smoother bolt cycling. Very happy with it.....so now what do I do? Not sure. Going to shoot the RPR for a bit and see if I keep them both or sell 1. We shall see.

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