Look at accurate mags. They should hold the coal you are wanting to reach
I learned a little trick for stock muzzle breaks. A .22 brass bore brush cleans the muzzle break extremely well. It fits in the holes perfectly.
I use the eagle industries shooting mat case and put the whole thing into a Pelican 1720. It doesnt close perfectly aligned edge to edge but gets the job done with the stock folded.
Well on a positive note. I just finished a 4 day comprehensive course at K&M training complex. Shannon and his staff were top notch. I managed to tie for 1st place using my RPR 6.5 creed. The rifle handed very well through all the stages. I’m glad I upgraded the grip to the tuxedo from anarchy outdoors. Made a big difference. The only stage I seemed to struggle with was shooting from within a school bus. I had difficulty getting my barrel up off the window even with the game changer. It’s just something I’ll have to play with. I’ve scheduled my first match which will be July 13 at K&M. I’ve spent more time reading everyone’s post instead of typing so thank you all for your help. I’m sharing a pic of me during the class top shot comp. hopefully it will load.
Attachments
Curious how that white oak barrel shoots, debating that and the proof barrel.
I have 2 MDT's without the binder plates and love them with my 6.5 CM RPR.
What caliber rifle is the muzzle break on?
Great I’ll order a few! Thanks for the help!
I havent made it out due to work, looks like this saturday i will head out and get a range report on the barrel
Shot the “jugs” today 43.7 Varget .018” off the lands. Under 1” at 200 yards. LRI 24” barrel, Lapua brass, 210m. Gonna go back in a week or two and play with seating depth.
^ Well I’m sold. Thanks for posting the load!
“Jugs” shoot great in 4 of my guns. I run them in my F T/R rifle. 44.0 grains of N150, 28” Krieger gets me right at 2750 fps. Really a good bullet!
^ Now I just need 8 inches more of barrel lol. I think I get my 190 SMK’s around 2525. Would be nice if I could get the jugs up above 2600
Hi Guys,
I need some help here. I have a friend shooting his first match. He has a 18” 308 RPR. He is shooting factory 168 FGMM. We did not have time to get his velocity for his solver. Does anyone here have the same setup? What velocity are you seeing? What are your holds for 600 and 980 yards? I know every gun is different, but I just want to verify his solver info is close. If you can post a range card that would be fantastic. It is a factory barrel ~200 rounds. He speaks MIL.
Thanks,
Bang
I need some help here. I have a friend shooting his first match. He has a 18” 308 RPR. He is shooting factory 168 FGMM. We did not have time to get his velocity for his solver. Does anyone here have the same setup? What velocity are you seeing? What are your holds for 600 and 980 yards? I know every gun is different, but I just want to verify his solver info is close. If you can post a range card that would be fantastic. It is a factory barrel ~200 rounds. He speaks MIL.
Thanks,
Bang
Zero at 100, shoot it on paper at 300 without adjusting the scope, measure the drop, then play with the velocity until it matches up
For the guys who have replaced their RPR 6.5 barrels what kind of accuracy improvements did you get? Trying to get as apples to apples as possible. Like say factory barrel/factory loads to custom barrel/factory loads. Not a replacment barrel AND going to hand loads comparison.
Love the way my stock barrel shoots don't really *need* any more accuracy out of it and can pick up a stock barrel with zero rounds on it for almost nothing......might just do that vs wait til mine is shot out and be forced to drop $5-900 on another.
Love the way my stock barrel shoots don't really *need* any more accuracy out of it and can pick up a stock barrel with zero rounds on it for almost nothing......might just do that vs wait til mine is shot out and be forced to drop $5-900 on another.
I want to say I got 1” groups @ 200 yards
LRI barrel gives me 1/2” or less @ 200 yards. We shoot Field Precision Rifle matches. They use F class targets. X ring is 3” at 600 yards. Still tweeking the gun. Hope this helps?
LRI barrel gives me 1/2” or less @ 200 yards. We shoot Field Precision Rifle matches. They use F class targets. X ring is 3” at 600 yards. Still tweeking the gun. Hope this helps?
That's exactly what I was looking for thanks. Factory ammo on both barrels? What I'm trying to do is keep it down to 1 variable on a barrel switch. Or it could be hand loads on factory barrel and hand loads on after market barrel just so there is one variable. To go from a stock RPR barrel with Hornady 143's and then go to a hand lapped barrel + start hand loading doesn't quite give me the story I'm looking for. Thanks!
All my loads are handloads.
I’ve got a round worked up for my RPR with a Kreiger 26” 1:7.5 twist 6.5 CM barrel:
New Starline brass
Federal large primer
41.3 gr Superperformance powder
140 gr Berger Hybrid Target bullet
40 thou jump, but going to fine tune jump for tighter 3 shot groups
New Starline brass
Federal large primer
41.3 gr Superperformance powder
140 gr Berger Hybrid Target bullet
40 thou jump, but going to fine tune jump for tighter 3 shot groups
Zero on the stock barrels tends to shift when they heat up. That happened to me. Put on an LRI barrel, no zero shift.
Bang
My factory barrel would start walking high right when hot.
Hot and cold can stress relieve as well as vibration.
I wonder if the heating > cooling and vibration cycle over time may have stress relieved the barrel for you.
My biggest complaint with the RPR is the bolt and bolt handle raceway but mostly the misaligned bolt handle raceway.
The bolt itself didn't bother me too much because even if Ruger didn't take the time to polish that slot on the left side, at least I could do it myself.... and I did.
But the bolt handle raceway needs some serious attention and that just discourages me from the rifle as a whole.
What I'm referring to is the slot for the bolt handle goes through three components and the slot is in a different location and width in each of these three components.
Cycling the bolt is like sliding on my butt down a stairway.
And the relationship between that slot on the left side and the bolt handle raceway is the key to a clean cycling bolt.
If the bolt is permitted to over rotate counter clockwise... and it does, the bolt handle no longer contacts the upper side of the bolt handle slot... instead the bolt release lever stops the bolt from rotating and then the bolt binds.
One continuous and smooth surface across the top of the bolt handle raceway would correct this unforgivable product defect.
Has anybody heard of any gunsmiths that are offering a service to address this?
The bolt itself didn't bother me too much because even if Ruger didn't take the time to polish that slot on the left side, at least I could do it myself.... and I did.
But the bolt handle raceway needs some serious attention and that just discourages me from the rifle as a whole.
What I'm referring to is the slot for the bolt handle goes through three components and the slot is in a different location and width in each of these three components.
Cycling the bolt is like sliding on my butt down a stairway.
And the relationship between that slot on the left side and the bolt handle raceway is the key to a clean cycling bolt.
If the bolt is permitted to over rotate counter clockwise... and it does, the bolt handle no longer contacts the upper side of the bolt handle slot... instead the bolt release lever stops the bolt from rotating and then the bolt binds.
One continuous and smooth surface across the top of the bolt handle raceway would correct this unforgivable product defect.
Has anybody heard of any gunsmiths that are offering a service to address this?
I feel your pain! I disassembled my bolt and action to smooth them up and improve alignment of the assembled parts. Additionally, I drilled a hole through the bolt handle just out from the bolt body and ran an 8-32 tap part way through on both sides. I then bottomed out two nylon screws from either side so they would bind and lock each other in place, nipped them off and used my X-Acto to carve them into little rounded nubs that bump across the staircase much better.
Interesting approach.
I disassembled the bolt and welded the bolt handle a bit and filed it to take up some of the gap to stop it from over rotating counter clockwise. That helped but the root problem is the slot is not straight and continuous.
I could see a guy milling the bolt handle slot wider so its one nice smooth continuous slot... but then the bolt handle would need to be wider to compensate... then I could like the rifle. I want to like it, but I'm hung up on this.
Actually Ken, you could mill the bolt handle slot wider to remove the steps and adjust for the added gap width with the nylon screw... you may be onto something!
Oh ya... I also modified the bolt handle on the left side because it slammed into the left side of the action and bites away at it. I added a little angle to lead in to help it ramp past the end rather than bite into it.
Ideally the hole for the bolt handle should not go all the way through the bolt. Then the end of the bolt handle could not hit the left side of the action.
Ruger seriously needs to take a look at this for the next version, but I'm not holding my breath.
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A little pre range day RPR goodness....
Very possible. I may have even just smoothed it out kinda like polishing. A patch fits much tighter through my unused spare barrel than it does through the one that’s currently on my rifle
I agree you would have smoothed it out by now, but I doubt that would have affected a POI shift as the barrel heated up.
^ Interesting. Well, for now I’m just enjoying banging the crap out of it
could i trouble you to please share where you purchased that bag rider for the pic rail/RPR stock? thanks
As a newer shooter I can only say this. I was impressed by the RPR. My longest has been out to 250 and parking in the lot all I could think to myself was "holy shit, that's a poke!"I'm jealous!!!
I spent the better part of 6 hours straight on the bench and after spanking steel at 500 without effort I spent the rest of the day at 1000. If I didnt have someplace to be that evening I'd have stayed till dark.
If I had a nickel for every shot that just missed by an inch I could've recouped my ammo cost. This range was a 2.5 hour drive one way and I can't wait to get back there.
Welcome to the addiction!!
That's awesome good for you man I'm in a waiting mode until our new range opens up which should be pretty soon. Jealous! Where is that range located?
Northwestern PA. Ridgway Rifle Club.
Has RUGER dealt with the raceway issue with the Gen3 rifles?
I have not shot the older rpr and experienced the issues so many speak of. However I can say my gen 3 6.5 has no problems and is very smooth after approx 1k rounds through it.
My Gen 2 is as smooth as silk guess I got lucky. For the price I don't expect to get any more performance from this rifle which is still limited by my skill sets. Having shot rifles costing 5x as much I know the guy behind the glass is the limiting factor given what the target said. Thrilled with my RPR for now. Maybe one day if I can hone this craft and feel like I'm being held back by hardware I'll jump in the big $ custom game.
He sells them on ebay for $34.00. I think he may have a slopped version also.
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In case anyone is interested, there are currently 7 RPR barrels for sale on eBay. 243 win, 260 rem, 308 win, and 300 win mag. Some factory and some aftermarket.
ruger precision rifle barrel for sale | eBay
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FYI in case anybody wants one Ganderoutdoors has RPR gen 2 308 for $995.00. I bought one about a month ago!! I use for practice and just plinking.
Alpha's web site was down for a long time and couldn't get hold of anyone there, so I thought they were out of business. Today I see their website is back up and running. I guess they're back in business. (for those of you looking fore a mag that can handle very long .308 or 6.5 cartridges)
Product not found!
alphaindmfg.com 
