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Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

To this day I have not heard from them. (Alpha) Bought a couple of ARC mags from a Hide member, gonna run them on the 4th, they look top notch!!
 
HI ALL

Quick question on the My RPR in 6.5 Creedmoor. I have about 900 rounds through it now an am starting to see the Ogive distance to lands increase by about 0.035 to 0.040 (on the same bullet) Is this normal? I am not running super hot loads through it. 41.5 gr of H4350 with 147 Grain ELD Match getting about 2680fps. No pressure signs at all.
 
spinout said:
HI ALL

Quick question on the My RPR in 6.5 Creedmoor. I have about 900 rounds through it now an am starting to see the Ogive distance to lands increase by about 0.035 to 0.040 (on the same bullet) Is this normal? I am not running super hot loads through it. 41.5 gr of H4350 with 147 Grain ELD Match getting about 2680fps. No pressure signs at all.
Click to expand...

Number of rounds and how hot those rounds are loaded to are only a couple of the things that effect the erosion of the lands. Different types of powder will have a greater effect on the lands that others; how hot you get the barrel (mostly having to do with rate of fire) has a major effect; cleaning procedures often have an effect; quality of the barrel . . . just to name some primary issues. So . . . 6.5 CM barrels typically have a barrel life of 1500 - 2000 rounds (again, depending on these factors), but just looking at such a number really doesn't tell anyone much without know these kinds of factors involved.

Now, .035 - .040 of erosion for 900 moderately loaded rounds sounds excessive to me (even for a factory barrel), though I don't have a 6.5 CM (I've got a .308 RPR that has had good life), which I can't really compare as there's a big difference in expected barrel longevity. I would expect something more like 1/2 that amount of erosion under normal use from a Ruger factory barrel. Maybe someone will post their numbers that you might compare and have some kind of point of reference. And, you might review how some of these factors apply to your particular barrel???

PS: You might find this of some interest:

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www.accurateshooter.com

"As noted above, a PPC barrel is typically replaced at 700-800 rounds. A 6.5-284 barrel can last 1200+ rounds, but it might need replacement after 1000 rounds or less. A 6BR barrel should give 2000-2600 rounds of accurate life, and a .308 Win barrel could remain competitive for 4,000 rounds or more. "
 
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^ Barrel life is why I chose the .308. I’m in my forth season with this rifle now. In addition to that, I’ve never loaded more than 43 gr of varget (only used varget). Since I have 1000 available to me whenever, I actually load slower cooler loads but heavier ones that produce more energy. No troubles with accuracy out to 1000. At 3,850 rounds I’m still seeing half MOA. I’m hoping to see 6,000 rounds out of this barrel, and I have a new one just sitting and waiting. If I were shooting beyond 1000 I’d have the 6.5
 
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LongRangeLefty said:
^ Barrel life is why I chose the .308. I’m in my forth season with this rifle now. In addition to that, I’ve never loaded more than 43 gr of varget (only used varget). Since I have 1000 available to me whenever, I actually load slower cooler loads but heavier ones that produce more energy. No troubles with accuracy out to 1000. At 3,850 rounds I’m still seeing half MOA. I’m hoping to see 6,000 rounds out of this barrel, and I have a new one just sitting and waiting. If I were shooting beyond 1000 I’d have the 6.5
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I've shot F Class for a long time and have had trouble with anything but hot loads past 900 yards as they drop into the speed of sound.

If you are still supersonic and having no accuracy trouble to 1000 with a short barreled RPR (stock barrel I assume), then you must have a super sleek bullet.

What bullets do you use?
 
^ I’m shooting 190 SMK with 42.5 gr varget and factory barrel. If I shoot f class at 1000 I’m told they’re definitely still supersonic. Or I can go to my steel range. Using my ballistic app (iStrelok) I’m estimating a velocity of around 2500 fps. The 1:10 twist rate may also help.
 
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If you can hit 2800 FPS my external ballistics program says you'd be at 1366 FPS at 1000 yds
If your muzzle velocity is 2700 then your 1000 yard velocity is 1308 FPS
2600 FPS drops to 1253 fps at 1000 with almost 38 MOA drop from a 100 yard zero

So you are probably just barely still supersonic at 1000.
 
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^ Thats what I believe as well. Which is also why I’ve been meaning to try the 180 or 185 jugs. I think I can push them just a little bit faster. Right now I’m coming up 37.5 MOA (11.1 Mils) at 1000 with the 190 SMK
 
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37.5 MOA... That's about what I guestimated.

I exclusively use 185 Jugs for F Class and have for a long time, but I don't use my RPR for that,,, I have a custom gun for that with a tight neck and long throat. That creates other problems though with VLDs, so I needed a custom chamber.

Since they (jugs, or any good VLD for that matter) are so long, unless your chamber is machined for them, you will not be anywhere near touching the lands in a magazine length round, so you will never find the sweet spot. Besides, since the nose is so long they need to seat deeper into your case and that reduces your max powder capacity.

For the RPR you are better served with SMKs because of the short nose profile. That lets you seat near the lands and still feed from the mag and maximize powder capacity.

My 185 Jug load for F Class is too long to eject a live round from a Rem 700 and forget about feeding from an AI mag for 308. Maybe a long action I could... in retrospect I should have based my F Class rifle on a long action... the rounds are almost as long as a 30.06 anyway. 20 years ago when I started with that rifle nobody knew that.

You might want to try the Hornady ELDs though... they have a real good BC and the noses are not real long like the Jugs, so you can touch the lands and feed from a mag.

I only shoot Hornady 75 gr ELDs for my 223 RPR, and probably for a sweet rifle I'm spinning up a barrel for on Saturday.
 
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^ Very interesting, and definitely good to know ahead of time. I could try to speed up the 190 SMK. I believe the max load of varget for them is 44 gr
 
I don't have an RPR yet, but I have recently switched from the 178 AMAX to the Berger 175 OTMs out of my 26" Savage .308 barrel. My old Amax load was 2660 fps and that was hard on brass as I had to bump shoulders every 2-3 firings. I recently switched to the Bergers and noticed that they had a noticeably shorter bearing surface. My accuracy node for them came in at a higher velocity of 2770 fps with less pressure signs and better brass life to boot. Apparently, the shorter bearing surface is a net positive for keeping peak chamber pressures down. My load in Lapua brass is 43.1gr Varget at 2.850" overall length. 1/4 MOA all day long if I do my part. Its a .020" jump to my lands and feeds from an AI magazine with no problems. I'm definitely a Berger fan now. I don't mind paying $50/hundred vs $35/hundred when I see some benefit. Stays supersonic all the way out to 1100 yards. If you have a hotrod, why feed it 87 octane garbage gas and limit its potential?
 
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^ I think my barrel, given its length and twist, is suited for something a little heavier. I haven’t tried the Berger OTM but I did try the 175 SMK with 44 gr varget. They did very well out to 600 but not so good at 1000. Especially in October and November when it got colder out. The Hornady 178 gr Superformance did very well at 1000 even on a cool breezy day, but I’ve only used the factory ammo with those. Never loaded any. The 190 SMK has always been good to me. Think I may just speed it up a little.
 
^ Very nice indeed!

It’s funny. I live in upstate NY and I’m 20 minutes from a 1000 yard f class range and 45 minutes from a 1000 yard steel range. The only reason I would ever move in my life is to be near one that’s open year round!
 
PracticalTactical said:
My biggest complaint with the RPR is the bolt and bolt handle raceway but mostly the misaligned bolt handle raceway.

The bolt itself didn't bother me too much because even if Ruger didn't take the time to polish that slot on the left side, at least I could do it myself.... and I did.

But the bolt handle raceway needs some serious attention and that just discourages me from the rifle as a whole.

What I'm referring to is the slot for the bolt handle goes through three components and the slot is in a different location and width in each of these three components.

Cycling the bolt is like sliding on my butt down a stairway.

And the relationship between that slot on the left side and the bolt handle raceway is the key to a clean cycling bolt.

If the bolt is permitted to over rotate counter clockwise... and it does, the bolt handle no longer contacts the upper side of the bolt handle slot... instead the bolt release lever stops the bolt from rotating and then the bolt binds.

One continuous and smooth surface across the top of the bolt handle raceway would correct this unforgivable product defect.

Has anybody heard of any gunsmiths that are offering a service to address this?
Click to expand...

This!!! Completely agree, I've asked my gunsmith about this, but he didnt know of anyone locally that would get this issue taken care of...
 
LongRangeLefty said:
^ Very nice indeed!

It’s funny. I live in upstate NY and I’m 20 minutes from a 1000 yard f class range and 45 minutes from a 1000 yard steel range. The only reason I would ever move in my life is to be near one that’s open year round!
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Must not be that far upstate. Nothing like that near me.
 
^ I’m in the Albany area. We say upstate for basically anything that isn’t NYC, which is a different world. Last time I was there was on 9/11. Never going back!
 
Guys I am looking to replace my handguard on my RPR. I am leanining hard to a 15” Seekins for my 26” 6.5 Creedmoor any suggestions?
 
I have two Gen 1 RPR's, running the Seekins 15". I love them , still had to run a riser under my scope to clear it. Also running two Magpul PRS stocks gen 3. Made a more stable platform for me to shoot. :p (y)
 
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Steve Bertelli said:
Guys I am looking to replace my handguard on my RPR. I am leanining hard to a 15” Seekins for my 26” 6.5 Creedmoor any suggestions?
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I have the Paper City Firearms handguard. Nice and rigid and very comfortable. No need to remove the barrel nut too
 
I tried out the new Ergo on the RPR. So far I like it.
0E0DF818-966F-4E58-8F3D-F387FEDADDCD.jpeg
 
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DannC said:
Hello J-Fonz, how is the Anarchy round bolt knob working out for you? Do you find it slippery in the rain or when your hands get sweaty?
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I like it. Feels like my SRS and AX. Haven’t been in the rain with it but I sweat profusely and haven’t had any issues.
 
Morning everyone. Name is cliff. I recently purchased an rpr 338lm I have noticed some oddness to it. First glance the fore grip is crooked. And it seems the brake is out of time. Anyone else have these issues? I'll take pics after work.
 
Lambored24thid said:
Morning everyone. Name is cliff. I recently purchased an rpr 338lm I have noticed some oddness to it. First glance the fore grip is crooked. And it seems the brake is out of time. Anyone else have these issues? I'll take pics after work.
Click to expand...

These issues are not new at all. There have been several who have had the same problem. First just try taking them off and reinstalling.

Some have had trouble removing brakes cranked on from Ruger because the nut is screwed on as tight as it can go, and then same with the brake. For this you can put the rifle in a vise. Then wrap masking tape around a screwdriver to prevent scratching. Insert the screw driver through the ports on the muzzle brake. Give the handle of the screwdriver a couple good taps with a hammer and it should come off no problem
 
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Any of you gents running a Jard trigger? I'm currently using a Timney which I am happy with but always looking. Any other RPR triggers out there?
 
LongRangeLefty said:
These issues are not new at all. There have been several who have had the same problem. First just try taking them off and reinstalling.

Some have had trouble removing brakes cranked on from Ruger because the nut is screwed on as tight as it can go, and then same with the brake. For this you can put the rifle in a vise. Then wrap masking tape around a screwdriver to prevent scratching. Insert the screw driver through the ports on the muzzle brake. Give the handle of the screwdriver a couple good taps with a hammer and it should come off no problem
Click to expand...
Thank you, that was my first post. And dang it if I would have waited a half hour longer I would have heard Frank talking about these issues :/ so that's what I did. I broke it all down and rebuilt it tonight. Hoping to start running rounds for break in tomorrow.
 
Is the Timney two stage trigger the only aftermarket trigger made for the RPR? I'm not too crazy about the two stage. Wish it was just a normal trigger with a nice light pull. Anybody else make a good one?

I wish Bix n andy made one! They are awesome triggers.
 
treillw said:
Is the Timney two stage trigger the only aftermarket trigger made for the RPR? I'm not too crazy about the two stage. Wish it was just a normal trigger with a nice light pull. Anybody else make a good one?

I wish Bix n andy made one! They are awesome triggers.
Click to expand...
I removed my spring and am pretty happy with the result. Cost: $0.00, time: 12 minutes.
 
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I just turned my pull weight all the way down and left it. The RPR is actually the first rifle where I haven’t replaced or modified the factory trigger
 
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Does anyone make a magazine for the RPR that you can close the bolt when the mag is empty? I single feed bullets a lot of the time at the range and it's a pain with the factory mag.
 
treillw said:
Does anyone make a magazine for the RPR that you can close the bolt when the mag is empty? I single feed bullets a lot of the time at the range and it's a pain with the factory mag.
Click to expand...

You can use a dremel to buzz the bolt stop off of the mag (which I have done to all of mine). There are a couple of mags that fit the RPR that don’t have a bolt stop but I don’t own or have used any.

You can see here where the corner of the bolt stop has been ground down

F0BCDFB6-8363-44DD-A229-70AE0D28C360.jpeg
 
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Carlos Danger said:
Theres a youtube vid. I searched ruger precision trigger mod. He's sort of annoying but it shows what you need to know.
Click to expand...

I think I found him - the reason why I was checking for a reliable source haha I'll give it a go.
 
What does removing the trigger spring actually do? Just curious what I'd be modifying. Does it make the trigger less safe? I assume ruger has it in there for a reason. :)
 
treillw said:
What does removing the trigger spring actually do?
Click to expand...

It removed all the spring tension on the trigger leaving a pull of a little less than 1#.

treillw said:
Just curious what I'd be modifying. Does it make the trigger less safe?
Click to expand...

It's only "less safe" to the extent that it results is a very light pull. For example, such a light pull would be quite a hazard to any loaded rifle that's being carried around in the woods and brush.

treillw said:
I assume ruger has it in there for a reason. :)
Click to expand...

It's there so there's an ability to vary the spring tension on the trigger to suit various people's preferences. With the spring in there, there a limit how low the tension can go. And the very lowest is when the spring isn't there at all.
 
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LongRangeLefty said:
I just turned my pull weight all the way down and left it. The RPR is actually the first rifle where I haven’t replaced or modified the factory trigger
Click to expand...

I've had 2 RPRs and the trigger on the first one wasn't too bad, but the second one was brutal.

It took so much force sometimes to pull the blade back that I almost slapped the trigger once I got there.

Pulling the trigger delicately was certainly a challenge.... not every time but about a third of the time.

That blade was just sticky and I would much prefer they did not have it.

I replaced it with a Timney… and to be honest... the Timney is much better than the original trigger, but still nothing to brag about.
 
^ Well that I definitely would have replaced too. I think if I found a used Timney on eBay or something I might try it. I’ve had a couple before and really like them. Basically the cost would have to come down for it to be worth it to me at this point
 
treillw said:
What does removing the trigger spring actually do? Just curious what I'd be modifying. Does it make the trigger less safe? I assume ruger has it in there for a reason. :)
Click to expand...
The pull weight is down where I like it now. I've checked the functionality and safety of the trigger and everything functions normally.
 
PracticalTactical said:
I've had 2 RPRs and the trigger on the first one wasn't too bad, but the second one was brutal.

It took so much force sometimes to pull the blade back that I almost slapped the trigger once I got there.

Pulling the trigger delicately was certainly a challenge.... not every time but about a third of the time.

That blade was just sticky and I would much prefer they did not have it.
Click to expand...

Apparently there was something very wrong with that blade to make it function that way. None of my Rugers that have these trigger blades have had anything like this issue. I don't think this kind of thing was something Ruger had in mind. I would have contacted Ruger and have them replace the trigger assembly.

On my RPR, I've got close to 5,000 firing now plus a lot of dry firing and 99.9% of that has been without the trigger adjustment spring. It has been functioning very, very well and haven't had a single issue with. I really like feel of the 12-14 oz of pull I get with the spring removed.
 
treillw said:
Does anyone make a magazine for the RPR that you can close the bolt when the mag is empty? I single feed bullets a lot of the time at the range and it's a pain with the factory mag.
Click to expand...

You can also put a piece of 3/4 inch (or 1 inch, I can't remember which size) PVC pipe on top of the magazine follower allowing single loading.
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