My pin rotates with the stock as it turns. It’s a Gen 2 if that makes a difference.
New guy looking for input...
I bought a pre-owned 6.5 Creedmore (mfg 2016) that has what looks like an ACC comp installed. I want replace the OEM hand guard with a Seekins product but the barrel nut won’t fit over the comp so I need to take it off. I did an initial trial run but I think I need a barrel clamp and heat. I have a bench vice but am a bit hesitant to clamp it in because of the torque on the barrel/barrel nut/ receiver. The Seekins install is straight forward but the comp is new territory for me. I’ve been building ARs for 15+ years but the RPR is a new platform for me. Any advice is appreciated.
I bought a pre-owned 6.5 Creedmore (mfg 2016) that has what looks like an ACC comp installed. I want replace the OEM hand guard with a Seekins product but the barrel nut won’t fit over the comp so I need to take it off. I did an initial trial run but I think I need a barrel clamp and heat. I have a bench vice but am a bit hesitant to clamp it in because of the torque on the barrel/barrel nut/ receiver. The Seekins install is straight forward but the comp is new territory for me. I’ve been building ARs for 15+ years but the RPR is a new platform for me. Any advice is appreciated.
Nice... I got a RPR in Barrett brown and hate the color difference between the Barrett and the Magpul PRS stock in FDE... I completely disassembled it and I'm waiting for the AZ heat to drop a little before I cerakote mine.
Do you have to buy his butt pad separate from the stock? So you buy the $400 stock then the $100 buttpad?
I would try clamping the barrel between a couple pieces of wood in your vice. Get it positioned so that the comp is as close to the vice jaws as possible to prevent excess twisting on your barrel. Then heat the comp a bit and try to loosen it.
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I am using the factory butpad and plate. Works just fine. Literally screws right in with no modifications tothe stock or the butpad. I would think that the Target Tool butpad would look great but I am retired and since what I had worked, why change?
Good to Know!
Thanks for the advice. I’ll try that and let you know how I make out.
Good advice I'm going to give it try one day
@Islander - I used your wood block suggestion adding a thin layer of leather from an old work glove. Instead of heat, I soaked the muzzle device in water over night because I thought that it could be Rocksett instead of red locktite. Needless to say, the muzzle device is off and the new Seekins SP3R rail is installed.
I would bet that the comp was rocksett’ed in. Heat won’t work on it. Rocksett has high heat thresholds, but is water soluble. Let the barrel sit in boiling water with the comp submerged for about 20 minutes and give it a try. Mine came off easily doing this.
ugh, sorry just read the last post and saw you got it squared away. Disregard... I’ll show myself out.
No worries, glad you took interest.
I have another question regarding my RPR. The rifle came with a Vortex Gen I PRS on 1.25“ American Precision rings. The original owner swapped out the Ruger stock for a PRS. I would like to swap the rings out for either taller rings or a mount. Any ideas?
I installed the Timney trigger in my RPR 300 PRC this afternoon. It feels 1000% better than the stock RPR trigger. I'm used to the Savage target action trigger at about 1 lb and the stock RPR trigger felt more like 5 lbs and vague on the 'break' (even with the RPR trigger adjusted to min pull).
Have a Timney in my Ruger, sweet trigger. Makes you a better gunner.
I use the American Defense AD-recon mount on my RPR. Not the most expensive but works well for me with the Magpul PRS stock. Mine is the 1.5" height version.
I know a lot of guys are using the Seekins handguard on their RPR. Just wanted to point out that Magpul makes an ARCA rail that fits real nice on the Seekins with just a little modification and is a bit cheaper than most ARCA rails I have seen. I can get pictures if anyone is interested.
Hope this is the right forum for this post as I do not see a "General Discussions". Anyway, thinking about getting an RPR and re-barreling in 6XC. What caliber would be the easiest to sell the factory barrel? Also, the 5.56 rifles are discontinued. Were there problems with these or just not enough sales? Thanks
Thanks for the heads up. I’ll check them out.
Warning I'm a newbe so... Anyway last November I bought a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 PRC with the idea of hitting something at 1000 yards. After 60 rounds marginal progress was gained. Marginal being the operative word. Since then the 6.5 PRC round is as rare as the Dodo bird. I saved my brass but the required large rifle primers aren't available either. So what I'm considering is converting it to the 6.5 Creedmoor. Since I plan to switch back to the 6.5 PRC when it hits the store shelves so I don't want to spend a lot of money. I'm hoping the same barrel can be used. Any advise would be welcome.
You cannot use the dame barrel for 2 different cartridges.
Also, unless you get a new bolt, you will not be able to convert the rifle to 6.5 Creedmoor, and even then I am not sure they are the same rifle.
First, I am going to make an assumption you have a good, repeatable scope solidly mounted.
I was thinking switching between these two totally different rounds would be a difficult task. My thoughts, instead of investing in Creedmoor, invest in a good chronograph and check out Hornady’s ballistic app. (Of course if you have already done this, please disregard)
With this information, getting on targets at long range will be doable.
Reloading also helps as you can shoot more for less (assuming the current political and epidemic ever stabilize and supplies again become readily available at resonable prices.).
Seems like all’s i have been doing this evening is assume
I was thinking switching between these two totally different rounds would be a difficult task. My thoughts, instead of investing in Creedmoor, invest in a good chronograph and check out Hornady’s ballistic app. (Of course if you have already done this, please disregard)
With this information, getting on targets at long range will be doable.
Reloading also helps as you can shoot more for less (assuming the current political and epidemic ever stabilize and supplies again become readily available at resonable prices.).
Seems like all’s i have been doing this evening is assume
These are uncertain times for sure. About all we have is guess-work and assumption at the moment.
Me personally I would purchase a 6.5 creed RPR. You can use your scope on both platforms. Or you can also sell your prc if ammo is scarce. You’ll find more creedmoor in the world than prc during these trying times. Unfortunately for me and the world of precision shooting, I’ve spent money on stuff to try and eventually sell later because it didn’t work out for me. Rifles are tools and sometimes require trial and error to get what works best for you.
What length barrel?
Need more info before anyone can offer any meaningful MV, for example:
Barrel length (though if it's factory, then it's 20"), the cartridge's COAL, case stamp/manufacturer (it's an issue as case volumes can be different like Winchester's having much more than others).
For anyone interested, I got my barrel issues sorted out. Turns out the threads were cut with a slightly oversized major diameter. McGowan had me send it back to them (free of charge) with my action and barrel nut and got it fixed it for me.. Great customer service, and everything I've seen from the few times I've had this rifle out tells me that this will be a good shooting barrel.
Does the Magpul PRS Gen 2 work with the RPR? The Gen 3 has too long of a LOP. Curious if the Gen 2 is workable?
Yes, just replaced my Gen 2 with a Gen 3. Need to move my scope back just a little.
Do you happen to know your shortest LOP with the Gen 2?
am interested in your load data for those two loads......I am using H4350
Factory ammo my man
Prime 130 avg 2946 fps
AG Hornady 140’s avg 2848 fps
Speed will vary, the barrel had around 100 rounds through it after its first cleaning.
Don't know exact LOP but did measure stock OAL the other day. Gen 2 was about 10.25" and Gen 3 was about 11.125". That is with the butt pad at the shortest setting.
Which butt pad did the Gen2 have on it?
After reading all 99 pages, I have bookmarked and learned alot. I finally shot my RPR and I am very grateful to be apart of this group. This is my first bolt gun and I feel like it is a great place to start.
Rifle and Parts Breakdown
• Ruger Precision Rifle Gen3 Barrett Brown 308
• Primary Arms SLX 4-14x44mm Illum ACSS HUD DMR-308
• Aero Precision Ultralight 30mm Scope Mount blk 1.5"
• Magpul Rifle Bipod 1913 Blk
• B5 Systems Type23 P-Grip Coyote
Rifle and Parts Breakdown
• Ruger Precision Rifle Gen3 Barrett Brown 308
• Primary Arms SLX 4-14x44mm Illum ACSS HUD DMR-308
• Aero Precision Ultralight 30mm Scope Mount blk 1.5"
• Magpul Rifle Bipod 1913 Blk
• B5 Systems Type23 P-Grip Coyote
How's this? :
On the other side there's still no interference and a gap between the finger rest and the lower frame:
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That is all I had to do to mine, and even that I could have just tightened it down and it would have been fine.
Ruger Custom Shop RPR 6mm Creedmoor Model #18085
I don't think this has been mentioned yet.
Most interesting parts to me are:
I don't think this has been mentioned yet.
Most interesting parts to me are:
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The part that is most interesting to me is that is says it uses a TriggerTech trigger. Hopefully the triggers will be available separately and we can finally have a good trigger option for the RPR.Ruger Custom Shop RPR 6mm Creedmoor Model #18085
I don't think this has been mentioned yet.
Most interesting parts to me are:
What's wrong with Timney?
