I actually shot it at 50, 100, 200, 300yds
Took my T1x out to 475yds
Here's how the T1x did at 200yds.
The RPRR is about the same using Fed HV.
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- Thread starter t8500shx
- Start date
Took my T1x out to 475yds
Here's how the T1x did at 200yds.
The RPRR is about the same using Fed HV.
O.K., I just got a RPRR .
I have basic question while deciding on set up options. The rifle has the 30 MOA base on it. At what distances is the 30 MOA base practical for a .22?
Essentially, I have a Bushnell 2-7x36 AR22 BDC I can put on now, but would likely put a higher magnification scope on when funds are available (also just picked up a new scope for another gun).
Is the 30 moa useful for my Bushnell 2-7, or should I get the 0 moa for now, then swap back to the 30 at new scope transition ?
I have basic question while deciding on set up options. The rifle has the 30 MOA base on it. At what distances is the 30 MOA base practical for a .22?
Essentially, I have a Bushnell 2-7x36 AR22 BDC I can put on now, but would likely put a higher magnification scope on when funds are available (also just picked up a new scope for another gun).
Is the 30 moa useful for my Bushnell 2-7, or should I get the 0 moa for now, then swap back to the 30 at new scope transition ?
Well your scope should be ok depending on your vertical adjustment, but the 30 MOA will come in handy when you get out farther than 200 yards due to bullet drop
Here is a ballistic chart for standard velocity 40 gr bullets, this will help a bit. If you have any questions on that gun feel free to contact me I’ve made many alterations
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If it were me, I'd leave the 30 moa scope base on the gun and just mount your existing scope. I think you'll find a 7 power scope lacking for distance much beyond 50 yards, but since you just purchased the gun, you'll be spending most of your time trying different brands of ammo to see what your rifle likes. I would consider a 2-7 magnification a hunting scope, and the reticle is probably not fine enough for serious target shooting. Since my eyes are 60+ years old, and most of my shooting is for groups, I have a tendency to over scope my rifles. My RPRR has a vortex Viper on it that goes up to 28 power, and I'm beginning to think I could get a bit more accuracy out of the gun if the reticle was a bit finer, as it takes up or hides about 1/2" of my target at 50 yards. My Tikka has a Athlon 40 power scope on it with a fine dot reticle, and that dot is approximately 1/4" or a tad less at 50 yards. I was thinking about switching the scopes between the two rifles to see if I can shoot a little finer groups with the RPRR.
I would also suggest that in your search for a higher powered scope to give "MKMachining.com" a look. I've purchased a few scopes from them and have been very happy with their prices and service.
I hope you enjoy your new RPRR as much as I do mine.
Need some help fellas-
Had my RPRR17 to a local yokal self-proclaimed ex-cop (rifted) Cerakote/gunsmith
'expert' for a coating. Completely disassembled it myself without problem
or incident and got it to him. Said it would be about a month. Almost 3 months a dozen texts/phone
calls later asking for a status, finally got it back with tons of attitude from him
at twice the estimated cost.
He broke the barrel nut loose (part #59) for me at the time of drop off- he kept the upper, lower, and
the barrel nut and I took the barrel home. Notice he scratched the barrel down to bare metal when
loosing the barrel nut even though he assured me he had a barrel vice when asked before.
So after all the hassle, I hand assembled it to see how it looked, etc. Noticed immediately
the barrel nut (part #59) hex face, which Ruger's instruction videos and manuals all clearly
state and show, would NOT thread facing the receiver leaving the smooth rounded part of the nut
to the rear where the barrel shroud screws/clamps onto. The barrel nut hex face would ONLY thread
to the receiver with the smooth rounded portion to the receiver and the hex face to the front.
(180 backwards). Naturally the shroud with the Ruger logo will be upside down when slid and
tightened into place.
Who has a Ruger Precision Rifle (RPR) or other Ruger rifle that may use the same barrel nut
in some of the models as my RPRR17 where this yokal mav have pulled a bait-and switch and returned
the WRONG barrel nut to me? He absolutely refused to tighten the barrel nut and barrel back to receiver
at the time of pick up even though he broke it loose an did so when I dropped it off.
Ruger, in 2 emails and 2 phone calls, would NOT provide any answers, and would NOT provide
any tech support what so ever on this issue. Only the gal CS reps working from home
who don't have a clue and "can't" get you to a tech or engineer.
Had my RPRR17 to a local yokal self-proclaimed ex-cop (rifted) Cerakote/gunsmith
'expert' for a coating. Completely disassembled it myself without problem
or incident and got it to him. Said it would be about a month. Almost 3 months a dozen texts/phone
calls later asking for a status, finally got it back with tons of attitude from him
at twice the estimated cost.
He broke the barrel nut loose (part #59) for me at the time of drop off- he kept the upper, lower, and
the barrel nut and I took the barrel home. Notice he scratched the barrel down to bare metal when
loosing the barrel nut even though he assured me he had a barrel vice when asked before.
So after all the hassle, I hand assembled it to see how it looked, etc. Noticed immediately
the barrel nut (part #59) hex face, which Ruger's instruction videos and manuals all clearly
state and show, would NOT thread facing the receiver leaving the smooth rounded part of the nut
to the rear where the barrel shroud screws/clamps onto. The barrel nut hex face would ONLY thread
to the receiver with the smooth rounded portion to the receiver and the hex face to the front.
(180 backwards). Naturally the shroud with the Ruger logo will be upside down when slid and
tightened into place.
Who has a Ruger Precision Rifle (RPR) or other Ruger rifle that may use the same barrel nut
in some of the models as my RPRR17 where this yokal mav have pulled a bait-and switch and returned
the WRONG barrel nut to me? He absolutely refused to tighten the barrel nut and barrel back to receiver
at the time of pick up even though he broke it loose an did so when I dropped it off.
Ruger, in 2 emails and 2 phone calls, would NOT provide any answers, and would NOT provide
any tech support what so ever on this issue. Only the gal CS reps working from home
who don't have a clue and "can't" get you to a tech or engineer.
Check the threads of the barrel nut and my guess is that he got Cerakote on them which is preventing it from going on.
Can you take a picture and post it? I’ve had mine apart many times did a lot of stuff to it including barrel changes maybe we can see what’s going on here
I do not have pics of mine but I do remember it being opposite all of the early videos, pictures or the ruger schematic for the rifle. I do believe my wrench flats were away from the receiver.
Well the reason I ask is because the side of the barrel nut with the hex is the collar that holds the barrel in place you can not install it the wrong way
Agreed, and on this rifle it will only go on one way as the threads are not all the way through the barrel nut.
Should have cropped the photos, but was kind of a quick go pull it apart thing... Hope this helps
That looks about right, what is not happening? Can’t tighten up the barrel shroud?
I think the concern is that he had a smith/armorer pull the barrel nut and the online videos, pictures and ruger schematic show the wrench flats facing the receiver. I believe BRRBshooter is wanting to verify orientation before installing, but I will let him respond to that.
Below is attached the page from the schematic, marked in orange is the offending image that leads to believe that the barrel nut is backwards.
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This is incorrect! It is very possible the first model was built this way but there has been a few modifications and the other thought is it’s a typo but I assure you this is wrong
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Thanks guys.
Finally got a email reply from Ruger in the 5th email with a generic statement: "See page 43 changes and modifications are subject to change without notice".
They would NOT confirm, in 5 emails and 3 phone calls, why every bit of info in the schematics, videos, etc all show the hex side of the barrel nut has to face the receiver. See Heartburn's 1625 post and pics above- mine's exactly like that. I'm confirming that this change, with the hex side facing away from the receiver does not center and firm up the shroud as well as the runs that have the hex side facing the receiver. Again mine is a .17HMR version. I'm just glad it wasn't a bait-and-switch from the hack Cerakoter..
Thanks again fellas!
Finally got a email reply from Ruger in the 5th email with a generic statement: "See page 43 changes and modifications are subject to change without notice".
They would NOT confirm, in 5 emails and 3 phone calls, why every bit of info in the schematics, videos, etc all show the hex side of the barrel nut has to face the receiver. See Heartburn's 1625 post and pics above- mine's exactly like that. I'm confirming that this change, with the hex side facing away from the receiver does not center and firm up the shroud as well as the runs that have the hex side facing the receiver. Again mine is a .17HMR version. I'm just glad it wasn't a bait-and-switch from the hack Cerakoter..
Thanks again fellas!
Small update:
put back OEM barrel on my boys RPRr and took two of my kids out shooting today.
still had extraction issues but not nearly as many. Didn’t seem to matter which ammo (surprisingly bulk ammo had the most).
OEM barrel was brand new and shot surprisingly well for a mass produced barrel.
It seems to like Eley Action. Below are some groups at 48 yards and decent breeze that would play havoc with the groups.
Can’t get rid of the gun because it’s my boys first gun and surprisingly my little girl loves the gun. I pulled out my Cz 457 MTR and a custom 10/22 in a chassis and she didn’t want them but said the RPRr fit her better.
She was having a hay day shooting old oranges that we had.
put back OEM barrel on my boys RPRr and took two of my kids out shooting today.
still had extraction issues but not nearly as many. Didn’t seem to matter which ammo (surprisingly bulk ammo had the most).
OEM barrel was brand new and shot surprisingly well for a mass produced barrel.
It seems to like Eley Action. Below are some groups at 48 yards and decent breeze that would play havoc with the groups.
Can’t get rid of the gun because it’s my boys first gun and surprisingly my little girl loves the gun. I pulled out my Cz 457 MTR and a custom 10/22 in a chassis and she didn’t want them but said the RPRr fit her better.
She was having a hay day shooting old oranges that we had.
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You might want to get some Wolf match target, shoots well! For what ever reason these rprf shoot cheap stuff better than the good! SK Match shot better than Center X, Wolf shot better than Midas+
great for fun Giving mine to my son and doing up a Bergara B-14 rim
Seems like it’s getting better. The stock is where my fliers are coming from, would be nice to put an aftermarket stock on this thing.
5 shot group this evening. Fed GM Target ammo, 50 yards. I believe on a better rest setup I could get it a little smaller.
5 shot group this evening. Fed GM Target ammo, 50 yards. I believe on a better rest setup I could get it a little smaller.
I have played with the rprr for a few months a just can not get the accuracy out of it and ordered a Tikka T1x Saturday, I hope to get nice groups from it
I've heard that some of the Rugers are extremely picky, and some just suck, if I'm honest.
Yet, I have had good experiences with mine once I found the right ammo it liked.
I think the T1x will work good for you.
The stock isn't bad for what it is.
Although, you might want to pick up one of these below if you plan to keep the factory stock?...
Good luck!
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Apparently I got lucky and received a gem out of the box. Purchased early this year. Recently got around to finishing it up and shooting it.
Specs:
Ruger Precision Rimfire 22LR
15 round stock magazine
Ruger supplied 30MOA base
Vortex Med rings (1-2mm objective clearance)
Bushnell Nitro 5-20X44
Caldwell bipod
My rifle came clean and free of manufacturing oil, gunk, and debris. Everything was properly tightened down. No action movement in chassis. Trigger is ok for what it is. It’s not a match trigger, but innovation and technology has come a long way to offer adjustable triggers as good as we can get now on firearms $400 and under. It will suffice for my purposes. The optic I chose wasn’t my first choice. But I caught it at CameraLand for $199 with no tax and free shipping. Hard to beat for that price. I have 65-70moa in my elevation turret and an additional 25 on the deploy moa reticle. I haven’t heard used this optic. But I did max it in all directions a few times and it has returned to zero flawlessly each time. Enough about the Nitro, I will post a brief review in the appropriate section when I have some more experience with it and have tested the reticle for holdover accuracy.
The bolt on my RPR is very tight to close. This is with the factory barrel. I read this entire thread and noticed that was a problem after installing match chambered aftermarket barrels. Mine isn’t uncomfortable or extremely difficult to close, but I wouldn’t want it any tighter. At this point given the accuracy I have achieved, I do not consider this a negative. I will keep an eye on it moving forward. My safety is very tight. I am hoping this wears in and loosens up some. This is really my only complaint as it is very difficult to manipulate with my hand in the shooting position. I don’t like breaking position to engage or disengage the safety.
I am using the factory supplied BX-15 magazine that came with the rifle. Magazine play is minimal, cartridge feed into the chamber is consistent and does not mark the projectile at all. My bolt cycles without marking the round on top of the magazine as well. Speaking of the bolt, yes there are some machining marks visible. Nothing to impact performance in any way. I seen some complain about this, but it’s a ~$400 rifle. If you expected everything to come beautifully polished with zero machining marks, that was not wise of you. I find the stock magazine release to be slightly uncomfortable, but I am getting used to it. I may add an extended one in the future. My hand guard is centered around the barrel. Mounting hardware for bipod is not contacting the barrel. So far so good. It shoots well. Very well. I am going to try some Eley, SK, Wolf, Lapua, and other ammo before settling on what I will use consistently. I will make sure to update as I go along.
Specs:
Ruger Precision Rimfire 22LR
15 round stock magazine
Ruger supplied 30MOA base
Vortex Med rings (1-2mm objective clearance)
Bushnell Nitro 5-20X44
Caldwell bipod
My rifle came clean and free of manufacturing oil, gunk, and debris. Everything was properly tightened down. No action movement in chassis. Trigger is ok for what it is. It’s not a match trigger, but innovation and technology has come a long way to offer adjustable triggers as good as we can get now on firearms $400 and under. It will suffice for my purposes. The optic I chose wasn’t my first choice. But I caught it at CameraLand for $199 with no tax and free shipping. Hard to beat for that price. I have 65-70moa in my elevation turret and an additional 25 on the deploy moa reticle. I haven’t heard used this optic. But I did max it in all directions a few times and it has returned to zero flawlessly each time. Enough about the Nitro, I will post a brief review in the appropriate section when I have some more experience with it and have tested the reticle for holdover accuracy.
The bolt on my RPR is very tight to close. This is with the factory barrel. I read this entire thread and noticed that was a problem after installing match chambered aftermarket barrels. Mine isn’t uncomfortable or extremely difficult to close, but I wouldn’t want it any tighter. At this point given the accuracy I have achieved, I do not consider this a negative. I will keep an eye on it moving forward. My safety is very tight. I am hoping this wears in and loosens up some. This is really my only complaint as it is very difficult to manipulate with my hand in the shooting position. I don’t like breaking position to engage or disengage the safety.
I am using the factory supplied BX-15 magazine that came with the rifle. Magazine play is minimal, cartridge feed into the chamber is consistent and does not mark the projectile at all. My bolt cycles without marking the round on top of the magazine as well. Speaking of the bolt, yes there are some machining marks visible. Nothing to impact performance in any way. I seen some complain about this, but it’s a ~$400 rifle. If you expected everything to come beautifully polished with zero machining marks, that was not wise of you. I find the stock magazine release to be slightly uncomfortable, but I am getting used to it. I may add an extended one in the future. My hand guard is centered around the barrel. Mounting hardware for bipod is not contacting the barrel. So far so good. It shoots well. Very well. I am going to try some Eley, SK, Wolf, Lapua, and other ammo before settling on what I will use consistently. I will make sure to update as I go along.
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Try Lapua SK Long Range does very well out to 50 yards and not the best at 100 yards, what distance are you shooting from
Testing at 50 yards now. After I narrow ammo selection down to the best 5-8 I will shoot them at 100, 150, and 200 to determine accuracy at those distances. After testing I plan to shoot out to 400.
Good for you! Good luck it looks like you may have received a good rprr, I had done extensive work and a ER Shaw 20” barrel and with good ammo hold a 1.25 MOA average At 100 yards so I’m going to Tikka T1X see if my groups will be better.
i had shot at least 3,000 rounds threw the Ruger testing and trying things sure was fun going to give it to my son
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Took out the RPRr to try different ammo. Also had recently installed a Timney trigger. On about every tenth round or so, I’d get a dead trigger. I’d have to lift the bolt handle and close it again to re-set it. Anyone had similar experiences? Any thoughts on how to fix it? Seemed to happen with Eley and Norma match. Might have just been a coincidence but no failure yet with American eagle plinking ammo. Groups were far better with Eley and Norma though.
You may want to recheck your sear engagement adjustment, or your trigger spring is to light and will not always return your trigger when cycling the bolt.
What ammo does your RPR22lr love to eat up? I can't find a good fit for mine yet, how long does the barrel last?
What scope are you using for your RPRR?
I had changed my barrel to a ER Shaw 20” and with SK Long Range was able to do the below at 50 yards and 100 yards, but I had played with Midas+, center X, all of CCI stuff and found the best was SK and was the most consistent
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I bought one of these for my 9yrd old daughter and I have a Leupold 2-7x28mm scope to start out with. What 1” rings should I get?
For doing a lot of practice, the CCI SV's are great and I shoot a lot of it, though not quite as consistently accurate as the more high end ammo. My particular RPRR does really well with Lapua Center-X and RWS R50. I also get pretty good performance out of various Eley and SK and products (like SK Long Range and Eley Club), which are kinda mid range price wise.
Except for the CCI SV's I stay away from any US manufactured 22LR ammo as quality control just isn't very good.
I've been really happy/lucky with mine. And best of all is that it loves CCI Standard 40g. Which I happened to have a ton of in the safe. Tried 10 different types of ammo through it. Federal, Wolf and CCI came out on top with CCI being most consistent with 1/2” at 50.
Oh, and my barrel nut has the flats forward.
Oh, and my barrel nut has the flats forward.
After reading this whole thread I decided to get a RPRR anyway. Mounted a Leupold MK4-16x that wasn't doing anything, lightened the trigger as far as it would go and adjusted the preload on a couple of 10 round magazines.
Nice day so I didn't put out windflags. Shot SK Rifle Match, SK Long Range Match and Lapua Center-X. My gun does not like Center-X. Both of the SK offerings were in the mid 4's at 50 with a few groups in the low 3's. I shot about 500 rounds. Extraction and ejection were perfect.
The gun needs a bit more scope. I'm going to put one of my NF 5-25's on it. I do not like the trigger. It's about 2 lbs. and I don't like the feel of the blade. A Timney will be here on Tue.
Bottom line...I like the gun. It's no Vudoo or Anschutz, but I didn't expect to it be.
Nice day so I didn't put out windflags. Shot SK Rifle Match, SK Long Range Match and Lapua Center-X. My gun does not like Center-X. Both of the SK offerings were in the mid 4's at 50 with a few groups in the low 3's. I shot about 500 rounds. Extraction and ejection were perfect.
The gun needs a bit more scope. I'm going to put one of my NF 5-25's on it. I do not like the trigger. It's about 2 lbs. and I don't like the feel of the blade. A Timney will be here on Tue.
Bottom line...I like the gun. It's no Vudoo or Anschutz, but I didn't expect to it be.
Well to get by this weekend that the trigger spring out and take the spring out of a click pen and cut it to the same length put back together and you have about 1#
my rprr did .4 MOA at 50 yards with SK LR and Wolf match at 100 yards wolf and SK LR opened up to 1.12 MOA all in 5 shot groups
I had put a ERShaw barrel on and tweaked everything think I squeezed everything I could get, I picked up my Tikka T1X and right out of the box it out shot the rprr.
some observations i had noticed the way the rprr feeds seemed to always damage the crown of the bullet with a flat spot, on the Tikka it feeds differently and 0 damage on feeding. This could be the rprr is due with fliers.
but the rprr is a fun gun enjoy it! Don’t bother with center X, midas+, biathlon the gun like SK ammos and wolf
my rprr did .4 MOA at 50 yards with SK LR and Wolf match at 100 yards wolf and SK LR opened up to 1.12 MOA all in 5 shot groups
I had put a ERShaw barrel on and tweaked everything think I squeezed everything I could get, I picked up my Tikka T1X and right out of the box it out shot the rprr.
some observations i had noticed the way the rprr feeds seemed to always damage the crown of the bullet with a flat spot, on the Tikka it feeds differently and 0 damage on feeding. This could be the rprr is due with fliers.
but the rprr is a fun gun enjoy it! Don’t bother with center X, midas+, biathlon the gun like SK ammos and wolf
Here's a short accuracy test on my RPRR with the upgraded ER Shaw match barrel for anyone interested?...
Take care
Take care
I got my RPRR about a month ago and have had it out 2 times. Day one I tore it down and did a complete clean. Took apart the trigger, removed the blade and installed a ink pin spring( now reading a lot of people do this) lol. I did find some vids of people " bedding the action" with aluminum tape and I had some in the shop so I did that and torqued lock tighted everything to spec. I tossed on a primary arms scope with a HUD 308 retical. I tried several different ammos's and the best I come up with that day was Federal gold metal target with Federal auto match coming second. I havent found anything CCI that was good. I tried mini mags,std velocity,select and velocitors. They were all garbage but I'm still going to try green tag when it comes in. The second time out my Vortex diamondback tac 4-16 had come in. I tried some Eley target this time and it shot awesome 10 shot groups. I then went to the rifle range and shot 100,200,and 400 and the Eley target killed the Federal gold metal target as far as consistancy and there was hardly any wind when I started. I now have the trigger at 1lb 3oz and have the gun settled in and shooting absolutely awesome. I also smoothed out the bolt and polished the cocking piece to smooth the bolt throw. I would still like to make it just a little easier. All and all this gun is much better then I expected out of a 400 gun with a 300 scope. I have since had 2 friends buy them and were going to get them going this weekend. I have shot next to a Tikka t1x and a Ruger american target and did as good if not better then both. The red circle on the targets are .5 and all groups shot at 50 yrds. 
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Hmmm??? I don't know of that many that have moved the blade. Typically, I know people have removed and/or replace the trigger adjustment spring. Without the blade, the gun is at high risk of slam firing. You should test the for yourself by kinda letting the gun drop onto its butt and see if the firing pin stays in place or not. I've tried it and without the blade both my RPRR and RPR will release the sear getting a slam fire. So, please be very careful now that that safety blade is not in your gun.
In both mo RPRR and RPR I have completely removed the adjustment spring, but left the safety blade in place. Without any adjustment spring I get 12 - 14 oz of trigger pull for both. My RPR is a .308 and has over 7,000 firing now (3 years + of firing) and have not had any issues with the trigger and pretty much the same for my RPRR.
Slam fire is when you drop the bolt on a semi auto gun and it goes off or the firing pin gets jammed in the bolt and u drop the bolt and the gun goes off. I have over 600 rds threw this gun and it won't go off. To be safe with a bolt gun u dont chamber one till on target or keep the safety on till on target. With the blade removed it's the same as every other bolt action that dont have a blade all the blade does is block the triggers movement.
Your right. That was just the best way I felt I could describe the problem.
Good luck!
I just cant handle the blades. Some people are gun snobs, some are scope snobs, I am a trigger snob. I pay attention to everything that the trigger does. And since I'm a tool maker I do alot of stone work shaping the trigger engagement to make it perfect. But IMO as far as function this without the blade is just as safe as any other bolt gun or any ruger precision with a Timney. Now if u make it to lite or make it to where there isn't enough search engagement you will make it unsafe where if u hit the stock it can go off or just closing the bolt can set it off. But usually it will just decock the firing pin.
Hi all, first post here.
I've been doing some accuracy testing with my Ruger Precision Rimfire and I thought you might find the results interesting.
edit: the spreadsheet is where the real magic is, screenshot is below but here's a link too https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wI4qcCY4v5bu1umsiQ8zvajx8AFyWw-aNZYPREEzbKg/edit?usp=sharing
I've been doing some accuracy testing with my Ruger Precision Rimfire and I thought you might find the results interesting.
edit: the spreadsheet is where the real magic is, screenshot is below but here's a link too https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wI4qcCY4v5bu1umsiQ8zvajx8AFyWw-aNZYPREEzbKg/edit?usp=sharing
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Very nice! I have been down this road, with a good after market barrel you can get even tighter. My rprr I did everything possible to it and would get the occasional sub MOA group at 100 yards and never found the perfect ammo, so I bought a Tikka T1x and out of the box with the barrel block removed will always shoot sub MOA at 100 with multi brands of ammo. But the sock is less than desirable and put a Boyd stock on and very happy.Hi all, first post here.
I've been doing some accuracy testing with my Ruger Precision Rimfire and I thought you might find the results interesting.
edit: the spreadsheet is where the real magic is, screenshot is below but here's a link too https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wI4qcCY4v5bu1umsiQ8zvajx8AFyWw-aNZYPREEzbKg/edit?usp=sharing
a couple guys on here asked why are you trying to get a rprr to preform like a Tikka, CZ, Beraga etc. I thought I could do it well my conclusion can to the Ruger feeding system, it always damages the crown and I believe that’s why you cant get the continual accuracy.
i say this because before you start dumping a bunch of money into it you may want to trade up and save yourself money to spend on ammo
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Thanks, I looked at re-barreling a bit but came to the same conclusion about the feed system. it's nice that it can use 10/22 mags but it comes at a cost.
My main motivation right now is NRL22, I shot a match with mini mags and I knew that I had more than a couple shots that were good but the mini mags just steered a little too far off course. Based on my results I think going from like 1.5-1.6 MOA with the mini mags to about 1.2 MOA with SK Standard Plus would keep me satisfied in NRL22 for a while. Nothing past 100 yards in the standard NRL22 courses of fire too.
I would replace the RPRR before I dumped any real money into trying to improve it, in my opinion both the feed system and the ejection system have flaws that are inherent to the design.
Mine had serious extraction issues when I first got it, I made a couple YouTube videos on the issue mine had and how I fixed it if anyone is curious.
Ruger Precision Rimfire Case Extraction Problem
Ruger Precision Rimfire Case Extraction Problem Fixed!
My main motivation right now is NRL22, I shot a match with mini mags and I knew that I had more than a couple shots that were good but the mini mags just steered a little too far off course. Based on my results I think going from like 1.5-1.6 MOA with the mini mags to about 1.2 MOA with SK Standard Plus would keep me satisfied in NRL22 for a while. Nothing past 100 yards in the standard NRL22 courses of fire too.
I would replace the RPRR before I dumped any real money into trying to improve it, in my opinion both the feed system and the ejection system have flaws that are inherent to the design.
Mine had serious extraction issues when I first got it, I made a couple YouTube videos on the issue mine had and how I fixed it if anyone is curious.
Ruger Precision Rimfire Case Extraction Problem
Ruger Precision Rimfire Case Extraction Problem Fixed!
Nikon prostaff II 4-12x40
