I agree, I have done a lot of clean up work on my rifle. The machining is pretty bad. I re cut the crown on my barrel. My rifle shoots pretty well so maybe I was lucky. I am looking forward to more aftermarket support for this rifle.
- Thread starter t8500shx
- Start date
I will share my experience with the RPR Rimfire. Mine shot horribly out of the box. 3-6 inches at 100 yards. I suspected the barrel was the issue since I could feel a definite constriction at the muzzle die to the effects of turning down a hammer forged barrel. I replaced the barrel with one an ER Shaw stainless match barrel which shrunk the groups, but only by maybe 20%. I then looked at the bedding and discovered the real problem. The rear of the receiver is supposed to be supported by two ears that protrude from the sides of the receiver channel and sit in the pockets milled into the sides of the receiver. I believe many guns like mine have tolerance stacking issues with the receiver, stock, magazine catch block, and trigger assembly housing that causes the ears in the stock to not precisely fit into the receiver pockets. After bedding the ears into the little pockets my rifle now shoots very well. The last group I shot was 5 rounds into 5/8" at 100 yards shooting prone off a bipod.
Sounds very interesting; do you have pictures of the work you did?
I don't. It was a hail Mary done a couple nights before the match. I had some steel putty on hand so I mixed up a small amount and put a small dab in the pocket on each side of the receiver and put it together. I took it to the range the next night after work to try it out and check the zero. Unfortunately there was a storm blowing in with gusting wind so I couldn't really determine how much it helped.
What kind of ammo where you using? The best group I've gotten so far at 100 yards was a 10 shot group about 1.5 in spread in 5-8 mph winds. I felt this was pretty decent considering I was using federal auto match
The lose fit of the V-block which also houses the ejector could explain the weak ejection issues some of these rifles appear to have.
Did you notice any change in ejection force after bedding the block?
Is type of rough milling work on a bolt normal? Mine shows these milling marks also. Not sure if it would affect anything, it just looks sloppy.I have yet to see any bore scope images of an RPR barrel, if the machining quality is similar to the bolt machining that could explain the issue.
This is my RAR Target in .17HMR replacement gun bolt they returned to me.
This is my RPR, it's better but IMO the machining indicates less than ideal speed, tooling, and fixturing practices.
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We have a Cabela's locally, I've inspected the bolts on a few RAR's they've had in the rack. I've seen some that have exceptional machining and some not so good. None as bad as the bolt in my replacement .17hmr rifle.
Mine looks to have won the trifecta: Poor fixturing, dull tooling, and high feed rate.
The accuracy makes it all acceptable.
This is the first test target of the .17hmr replacement gun at 50 yds. Vortex 4-16 BDC reticle.
I need to take it to the range again and shoot the same target as I've shot 1K rounds since this target and feel the accuracy has gotten even better.
It's primary usage is ground squirrel elimination in a hazelnut orchard behind my property. I don't miss many with this rife at 60-120 yd. resting on the trees. I just killed squirrel number 301 last Friday.
I was hoping the precision rifle would be similar with the same scope and trigger. So far it can't touch the .17hmr which I have done nothing to regarding action bedding.
Any word on lightweight barrels for the RPR yet?
My boys birthday is next month and he is getting a RPR (and taking his hunters education/safety). He has to shoot prone, kneeling, and standing (ten shots each). Worried that the gun is a little heavy for him. I have other lightweight 22s that he can use but would like a lightweight barrel for him so he could use his own gun.
Bolt machining on his looks rough but not the worse I have seen. Might need to polish it or send it off and I need to look into the bedding.
Trigger is spot on out is the box
My boys birthday is next month and he is getting a RPR (and taking his hunters education/safety). He has to shoot prone, kneeling, and standing (ten shots each). Worried that the gun is a little heavy for him. I have other lightweight 22s that he can use but would like a lightweight barrel for him so he could use his own gun.
Bolt machining on his looks rough but not the worse I have seen. Might need to polish it or send it off and I need to look into the bedding.
Trigger is spot on out is the box
What did you use as a spacer material?
Just when I thought it couldn't get much worse than mine. I've never associated this caliber of machining acceptable in firearms manufacture, obviously times are changing. So I don’t know if this was around 1.5 inch but it was a guess. I forgot to get the tape measure out at the range. The weather was taken around 1130 am that day. That flyer to the left I squeezed off
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Range Report with shimmed "V-block".
I used some card stock that I cut two small rectangular pieces from and slid them into the stock, one on each side. Absolutely NO improvement in accuracy or group dispersion. ????????????????????????????????????? What next? Maybe the long awaited Green Mountain barrel.
Sure hope the 22" barrels that are available make a positive difference. (I'm waiting on an 18" barrel.)
I used some card stock that I cut two small rectangular pieces from and slid them into the stock, one on each side. Absolutely NO improvement in accuracy or group dispersion. ????????????????????????????????????? What next? Maybe the long awaited Green Mountain barrel.
Sure hope the 22" barrels that are available make a positive difference. (I'm waiting on an 18" barrel.)
I just got a Return Authorization from Ruger...… again.
Hoping to hit the Barrel/Chassis Lottery this time.
Good luck, you deserve it.
Thanks, don't know if I deserve it, but as longtime Ruger supporter I wish they'd up their game instead of continually shooting themselves in the foot.
We've all fallen victim to the "suits" who are not enthusiast taking over businesses and place marketing and balance sheets ahead of production and quality control.
KTM motorcycles are one company that employs enthusiasts in every level of their operations. Their product quality and performance speak for themselves on the track and in the press.
I love my 2 RPR centerfire rifles. I was out shooting my 6mm Creedmoor this morning. I bought a RPR Rimfire hoping for a similar experience. I love the rifle itself, the way it is setup and the egos. I sold mine for only 1 reason, it was average in the accuracy department. I spent 5 months trying everything I could to get it better but it was a 1.5moa rifle. I may revisit this rifle in the future as I have a feeling that there will be a few changes coming from the factory over the next year or so.
I would try a dab of bedding compound in the pockets on the sides of the receiver. There is one just in front of the bolt handle slot on the right side and one across from it on the left side. These are what locate the rear of the action, or should. If the corresponding ears on the inside of the stock aren't bearing or bearing evenly, then I believe this is the cause of poor accuracy. It certainly seemed to be the issue with mine.
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My RPR that's now resting on a UPS shelf somewhere seemed very sensitive to cheek weld and trigger hand pressure which as I see it puts torsional pressure on the chassis. It seemed to shoot best when exerting as little human pressure as possible on the contact points.
Between an overly sensitive rifle and a menopausal wife the last few months hasn't been exactly rewarding.
Between an overly sensitive rifle and a menopausal wife the last few months hasn't been exactly rewarding.
That’s disappointing. I agree with you all, I to had to do quite a bit of polishing and some machining to get my action “Super Smooth.” It’s a shame that for a “Precision Rifle,” there is not real high quality control. They need to step up the quality to shoot with the higher priced rifles. I’m not saying they need to have 800-2000$ quality, but it would be nice to have 400+$ quality in it.I have yet to see any bore scope images of an RPR barrel, if the machining quality is similar to the bolt machining that could explain the issue.
This is my RAR Target in .17HMR replacement gun bolt they returned to me.
This is my RPR, it's better but IMO the machining indicates less than ideal speed, tooling, and fixturing practices.
The biggest issue IMO is they put "Precision" in the name and that creates elevated expectations. The average performance of the rifle makes it pretty obvious..... the intent behind using "Precision" was marketing, If Precision was a manufacturing objective the gun would actually be inspected and tested by qualified personnel before shipping.
When initially marketed I saw Precision in the name and wondered if it could actually be true, especially considering the street price. It was a coin flip IMO that was worth risking. My primary frustration is manufacturers Board of Directors continue to allow their Marketing Divisions to overload the Manufacturing Division's ass. Or building mediocrity was the strategy all along and they're simply defrauding the consumer.
One company is winning...… UPS
Very interesting. What are your action screws torqued to?
What did you use to torque your action screws? A FAT wrench won’t fit, right?
Being very sensitive to pressure and or torque seems to me to verify my suspicion that the bedding is the culprit. If my theory is correct, many of these rifles have the rear of the action only really resting on the front of the trigger housing and the little ears that should support the rear of the action are barely touching, or not touching at all, and a little pressure one way or another will cause one or the other of these ears to touch the action or pull away from it.
The factory Ruger take down bolts are 1/8" pan head and the basic Wheeler Fat Wrench set doesn't have an 1/8" hex bit.
I went to the fastener supply and bought correct length 5/32" socket head bolts and turned down stainless washers to match the diameter of the pan head.
Not sure why they used 1/8" on the RPR vs the 5/32" that the RAR and 10/22 use as well as my Savage Bmag and 93.
I went to the fastener supply and bought correct length 5/32" socket head bolts and turned down stainless washers to match the diameter of the pan head.
Not sure why they used 1/8" on the RPR vs the 5/32" that the RAR and 10/22 use as well as my Savage Bmag and 93.
Hey guys.. new to the forum.. just a quick question about this rifle.. i recieved mine the other day and upon pulling it apart i noticed that the quality of some parts are pretty average.. the 15 round mag is very loose in the well.. the bolt has left over material in the corners and orbs from machinining.. the magazine release top wings look like thay have been cut with a hack saw.. very jaggered and uneven.. the top of the trigger housing is fairly average too.. im contemplating contacting ruger and asking wtf?.. however i am reluctant to do so as i am in australia and anything that involves weapons is very costly and time consuming.. anyone else experience this?.. i was very excited to get this rifle.. and im pretty dissappointed with the quality..
I smoothed my bolt with diamond files like these: EZE-LAP Diamond Files
The rear opening of the action had some drag and I used a small wood down with 220 grit sand paper on it to smooth the machining burrs on the inside of the rear cut. Bolt feels like it should now.
The extractor hook is a stamped pieced the needs to be cleaned up. I put 220 wet dry paper on a glass plate and smoothed the rough side of the stamping, then cleaned the nose and undercut the hook for a better bite on the case with the diamond files. Extracts fine now.
Ejection is weak, haven't worked on that yet. Thinking the ejector bar that rides in the V-block may be rocking back or not firm enough when the case makes contact during the cycle. Ruger will not send a new ejector, that for some reason requires the rifle to be sent to Ruger.
My V-block had casting burrs where it seated against the action which I smoothed with a Dremel tool. Also the trigger tang at the action takedown cause the action to ride high of the V-block slightly. I put piece of .040" aluminum tape on both sides of the block and that level the mating surfaces.
My trigger had some initial creep that is usually predictable. The stock pull was 2.2 lbs. I ran the adjustment screw all the way in (firm) then back it all the way off the spring, then in until I could just feel spring tension on the screw. That produced a consistent 1.9 lb. pull.
Check the scope rail to make sure its on in the proper direction and verify the screws are properly torqued.
If the gun is accurate to your satisfaction doing the above should make the function acceptable.
Cheers bud.. very good information which i will practically apply.. just wondering how yours shoots after tidying up the imprefections?.. also do others think that it is acceptable for ruger to be skipping this bad on quality?.. i have a ruger american an the quality on that rifle far exceeds the RPR.. sure it looks nice.. i like the quality of the stock and its features but you dont skip on function for looks imo
Well you are giving me faith.. not the best.. (i dont men your shooting).. bit i think its acceptable for the price of the rifle.. having the option for other barrels and timney triggers is also a bonus.. ill clean mine up and give her a shot.. havent even put a round down it yet but have 6 different rounds i want to try.. how do you feel about the accuracy and the rifle in general?.. thanks for the reply..This is with SK Standard Plus at 50 yds.
Not the best by any means and I've shot worse. I've seen other's guns shoot much better, unless they are posting only "golden" targets.
There's a lot to like about the design. Ease of servicing, barrel replacement, M-Lok forearm, adjustable LOP and cheek riser, interchangeable grips, modular trigger unit, 20 MOA rail, etc. I don't love the looks of the rifle but functionality trumps looks. I needed a tool for a purpose and it was the best option for my needs.
Apparently the chassis has been re-engineered based on a phone conversation with Ruger. I'm guessing due to magazine fitment and hopefully action fitment issues. I've heard a 1 or 2 people mention say Ruger shipped them a new chassis on their request. I just shipped my rifle back because it's easy for me and figured I may hit the lottery. My intention is to convert the rifle to .17HM2 for dealing with squirrels in an orchard.
Branding this rifle as "Precision" and not taking the additional measures to insure it actually is was wrong and dishonest on Ruger's part IMO.
Hopefully you got one of the shooters mate!
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I smoothed my bolt with diamond files like these: EZE-LAP Diamond Files
My V-block had casting burrs where it seated against the action which I smoothed with a Dremel tool. Also the trigger tang at the action takedown cause the action to ride high of the V-block slightly. I put piece of .040" aluminum tape on both sides of the block and that level the mating surfaces.
You happen to have an image of what this looked like?
Are the diamonds 1” Also, can I ask where you got that target?This is with SK Standard Plus at 50 yds.
Here's the clearance test and also shows the deburred areas:
Here's the .040" tape applied:
Diamonds are 3/4" x 9/16"
Target is available over at Rimfire Central: https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=110
So i sat down tonight in front of the tv and did a full dismantle of the bold.. wasnt really supprised to see small imprefections but it was nothing a bit of love couldnt handle.. i filed and sanded most of the imprefections away besides some or the machining tool marks as i didnt want to take to much off just smooth it out.. the firing pin base that rides the channel was rather rough so a small touch up there.. buffed what i could by hand (little ones in bed).. and cleaned her up and oiled.. put in the action and ran the bolt.. much much smoother.. i think it could do with a touch more cleaning/smoothing.. but is already an improvement.
Thanks!
Just finished testing my new Green Mountain 22" barrel thought that everyone here might be intrested in my impressions:
Ruger Precision Rimfire Factory Original barrel:
This example is pretty much what occurred with every ammunition brand I tested. The flyers occurred randomly sometime less with with more expensive ammunition but they were always there.
Cleaning the new Green Mountain 22" barrel barrel for the first time:
I really wasn't supprised to see these patches when I cleaned the barrel before taking it out for the first time. The manufacturing process is durty work.
I shot 100 "seasoning rounds" per the Green Mountain's instructions that were included with the barrel.
I knew from the first shots on paper that this barrel was a definate improvement.
New Green Mountain 22" barrel with Ruger Factory thread protector installed:
The target above was shot with the Ruger Factory thread protector installed on the GM barrel.
New Green Mountain 22" barrel with ebay muzzle device installed:
I ordered a cheep muzzle device from an ebay vendor because I read here that the factory barrel performed better without the factory supplied thread protector. This target is shot with the muzzle device and the barrel "seasoned" with 25 rounds.
All targets were shot at 50 yards using CCI Standard Velocity ammunition. The winds were light on both occasions 3 to 5 MPH.
Take away from the barrel swap out. One, I love the GM barrel! Two, I'm not an expert shooter by any means I've only been doing this for about a year. I'm sure the flyers on the GM targets are my fault. I either rushed the shot or jerked the trigger. This barrel in my opinion delivers the consistency that you need when target shooting. Finally, I love the longer profile that the 22" barrel provides:
That about covers it. Happy shooting;
kgc54
Ruger Precision Rimfire Factory Original barrel:
This example is pretty much what occurred with every ammunition brand I tested. The flyers occurred randomly sometime less with with more expensive ammunition but they were always there.
Cleaning the new Green Mountain 22" barrel barrel for the first time:
I really wasn't supprised to see these patches when I cleaned the barrel before taking it out for the first time. The manufacturing process is durty work.
I shot 100 "seasoning rounds" per the Green Mountain's instructions that were included with the barrel.
I knew from the first shots on paper that this barrel was a definate improvement.
New Green Mountain 22" barrel with Ruger Factory thread protector installed:
The target above was shot with the Ruger Factory thread protector installed on the GM barrel.
New Green Mountain 22" barrel with ebay muzzle device installed:
I ordered a cheep muzzle device from an ebay vendor because I read here that the factory barrel performed better without the factory supplied thread protector. This target is shot with the muzzle device and the barrel "seasoned" with 25 rounds.
All targets were shot at 50 yards using CCI Standard Velocity ammunition. The winds were light on both occasions 3 to 5 MPH.
Take away from the barrel swap out. One, I love the GM barrel! Two, I'm not an expert shooter by any means I've only been doing this for about a year. I'm sure the flyers on the GM targets are my fault. I either rushed the shot or jerked the trigger. This barrel in my opinion delivers the consistency that you need when target shooting. Finally, I love the longer profile that the 22" barrel provides:
That about covers it. Happy shooting;
kgc54
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Can’t view your images ?Just finished testing my new Green Mountain 22" barrel thought that everyone here might be intrested in my impressions:
Ruger Precision Rimfire Factory Original barrel:
This example is pretty much what occurred with every ammunition brand I tested. The flyers occurred randomly sometime less with with more expensive ammunition but they were always there.
Cleaning the new Green Mountain 22" barrel barrel for the first time:
I really wasn't supprised to see these patches when I cleaned the barrel before taking it out for the first time. The manufacturing process is durty work.
I shot 100 "seasoning rounds" per the Green Mountain's instructions that were included with the barrel.
I knew from the first shots on paper that this barrel was a definate improvement.
New Green Mountain 22" barrel with Ruger Factory thread protector installed:
The target above was shot with the Ruger Factory thread protector installed on the GM barrel.
New Green Mountain 22" barrel with ebay muzzle device installed:
I ordered a cheep muzzle device from an ebay vendor because I read here that the factory barrel performed better without the factory supplied thread protector. This target is shot with the muzzle device and the barrel "seasoned" with 25 rounds.
All targets were shot at 50 yards using CCI Standard Velocity ammunition. The winds were light on both occasions 3 to 5 MPH.
Take away from the barrel swap out. One, I love the GM barrel! Two, I'm not an expert shooter by any means I've only been doing this for about a year. I'm sure the flyers on the GM targets are my fault. I either rushed the shot or jerked the trigger. This barrel in my opinion delivers the consistency that you need when target shooting. Finally, I love the longer profile that the 22" barrel provides:
That about covers it. Happy shooting;
kgc54
Thank you sir!Here's the clearance test and also shows the deburred areas:
Here's the .040" tape applied:
Sorry about that each forum has they're own way of showing pictures. This is my first time posting with pictures.
I don't think adding thickness to what you call the V block is going to improve accuracy. That "V block" is not solidly attached to the stock at all. It just sits in a molded slot. Adding extra thickness to it just insures that the rear is sitting on that wobbly cast block instead of being supported by the ears that are solidly attached to the stock that should engage those little pockets milled into the sides of the receiver.
That is great news to see the improvement in the accuracy with the GM barrel vs the OEM.
I have emailed Beyer barrels about making a LW barrel for my boys RPR (he is getting it for his B-day and it's a little heavy for him to shoot off hand and pack around). I haven't even cleaned the rifle or anything like that because I want him to learn what to do with a new rifle. I hope it has the second gen stock. I need to call ruger and get the 0 MOA rail also.
Question for those of you with them.
What pistol grip are you running on them?
On my AR15's I run the ergo tactical deluxe without the palm shelf but I am wondering what I should swap it out to for my boy.
I have emailed Beyer barrels about making a LW barrel for my boys RPR (he is getting it for his B-day and it's a little heavy for him to shoot off hand and pack around). I haven't even cleaned the rifle or anything like that because I want him to learn what to do with a new rifle. I hope it has the second gen stock. I need to call ruger and get the 0 MOA rail also.
Question for those of you with them.
What pistol grip are you running on them?
On my AR15's I run the ergo tactical deluxe without the palm shelf but I am wondering what I should swap it out to for my boy.
