My bro and I took our RPRRs to the silhouette range today and shot the 200-meter chickens. I have an ER SHAW barrel and custom compensatory on my rifle. His rifle is stock. We had no trouble dialing out to the chickens and hitting them. As long as your wind hold was correct hits were pretty much assured. Great fun.
- Thread starter t8500shx
- Start date
I'm curious, how much elevation did you need for 200 meters?
My vudoo needs 24.75 MOA up from a 50 yard zero. Won't even try my RPR as it is so poor accuracy wise.
well at 5 times the cost what do you expect? thats like comparing a mustang and a ferrari
My dope says 7.1 mils (24.78 moa) for my RPRR to get to 200 yards from a 50 yard zero; I don't think the quality of the rifle has a whole lot to do with bullet drop other than a slight variance in muzzle velocity due to barrel manf. quality and/ or length. Accuracy is another story; I'm consistently able to hit 3 and 4" plates at 200 in various crosswinds. Is that great, not really, but its teaching me a lot about shooting and I'm having fun.
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I've been purposely staying silent on this RPRR is great / garbage debate due to me being quite new to rimfire shooting for anything other than simply passing the time. However, I got the Ruger "precision" as cheaper alternative to practicing with my centerfire gun; it works pretty good for that.
It's a target rifle in my eyes, not a match gun. To my astonishment the rifle shoots pretty good so far despite my lack of knowledge, talent, and technique. I am getting an average of 3/4 minute at 50 yards with CCI SV and the accuracy seems to be improving as I learn more of the tricks of the trade. I see guys shooting locally, and posting groups on the "great equalizer" (the internet) that are legitimately 10 - 20 % better than what I'm getting; they have more invested in their optic alone than I do in my entire rig. To each their own. Is a vudoo a nice rifle, yup.
I still get a kick out of shooting a bunch and not having to sell a kidney when I get home in order to fund more components. I can afford a whole lot more ammo. since I bought the Ruger. When it's all said and done, I'm just-some-guy...
It's a target rifle in my eyes, not a match gun. To my astonishment the rifle shoots pretty good so far despite my lack of knowledge, talent, and technique. I am getting an average of 3/4 minute at 50 yards with CCI SV and the accuracy seems to be improving as I learn more of the tricks of the trade. I see guys shooting locally, and posting groups on the "great equalizer" (the internet) that are legitimately 10 - 20 % better than what I'm getting; they have more invested in their optic alone than I do in my entire rig. To each their own. Is a vudoo a nice rifle, yup.
I still get a kick out of shooting a bunch and not having to sell a kidney when I get home in order to fund more components. I can afford a whole lot more ammo. since I bought the Ruger. When it's all said and done, I'm just-some-guy...
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Good question but elevation from what zero? I just mounted the scope on the rifle, zeroed it at 40 meters on the fly, then cranked it up until I was hitting the chickens at 200. I did not record anything because I knew that I would remove the scope from the RPRR when I got home. The gun and scope are not a permanent or even semi-permanent system.
Called Ruger about mag problems .They sent me a new chassis fixed the problem .Extraction filed the extractor to increase the length of the hook. Using cci sv it takes 29 to 30 moa to get to 200 meters 47 moa to 300 meters . With a 50 meter zero . BUT THAT'S WITH WIND .
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mrt949, "Called Ruger about mag problems .They sent me a new chassis fixed the problem."
When did you get the replacement stock?
When did you get the replacement stock?
mrt949: What is different on the replacement stock?
Is it possible to measure the spec's / dimensions of the magwell and post them? It would be nice if people could tell if they have an older or "fixed" version of the chassis; it's not really possible to go by sale date due to the possibility of old stock on hand. I bought mine a couple of weeks ago, it could be a newer generation, or not.
I must say, I do not have any feeding issues or accuracy issues currently, but I ditched the 15rd mag right away and used Ruger factory 10 rounders. I also put a layer of aluminum tape in the front and rear face of the magwell just for good measure and tighten tolerances a tad.
Maybe post the dimensions of magwell front to back, and side to side.
Thank you.
Would probably be helpful if you posted the magwell spec's on an updated chassis for those trying to determine if that is their issue.
Hello all! Great info and work on this rifle! I am looking for the proper ring height for my RPRimfire. I am keepomg the stock 30 moa rail and putting a Vortex Diamondback 4-16x44 FFP on it. Anyone able to give best height of rings to get it close to barrel without touching? Thanks for any and all help!
Cheers!
Cheers!
I just Purchased the same with the one inch high rings by instruction of the manufacturer. I will Update on fit when the scope and rings arrive
It’s blatantly obvious. How Ruger let this rifle go out like this is beyond me. Single feeding works but it’s time consuming and you break your position. Excellent post.
You have to keep in mind Ruger is using the same polymer stocks in all three rimfire version of their rifles (.17, .22LR and .22 Magnum). This saves on production costs, and we all know that that Ruger as well as any other wepons manufacturer are expected at the end of the quarter to turn a profit. If you know this when you purchase the rifle its short comings are not as much of a surprise.
I have a 10/22 housed in a Nordic Component AR-22 chassis. I tossed the stock for my RAR if favor of the MDT LSS-22 and haven't regretted the decision. I'm ever so slowly getting the RPRR set up to my likings.It is all about what shooting and enjoying what you shoot.
Great video Elfster. It is clear that accuracy of the 22lr is falling apart at 300 yds; I am really curious how a "better" / more expensive gun shooting similar ammo. would perform at that distance.
Getting my rprr on Monday. Will report back with accuracy results. Should be fun for the kids to shoot.
I've learned a lot reading this thread. I love this little rifle. There are people here far more scientific than I am. I'd like to share my experience with my RPR
I'm shooting golf balls at 220yds consistently. Depending on wind it may take 2-4 shots as I dance just around it.
At 190yds I'm just breaking clay pigeon pieces smaller and smaller until I can't see them anymore.
And I've done NOTHING to the rifle. I purchased it late November.
Stock magazine. (I intend to get a 10 round one.)
I've NOT bedded the action, but I'm going to.
And I've committed the most evil of all .22 sins.... I'm using HV ammo! noes!!!!
And I'm not even using a bag in the rear, just my shoulder. (I've since purchased a monopod for Xmas, and it feels like cheating.)
I bore snake it... when I feel like it. I'm prbly over 2000 rounds easily.
I don't know if I've got the mystical unicorn edition, but it works. I'm zeroed for 100yds. I used 1.5mil hold under for 50yds and will hit dum dum lollypops all day.
This is all before I start testing with expensive ammo. Right now its so freaking cold and windy its pointless. But I will post a 6x5 when it gets warmer. I'm looking for consistency 100yds and beyond. I've had ammo at 50yds look like one hole, and fall apart at 100yds like it was thrown by my grandmother...with her off hand. I really don't care about 50yd groupings if I intend to always shoot further, but I test anyway.
Current front runner ammo:
CCI Mini-Mag High Velocity 22 Long Rifle Ammo 40 Grain Copper Plated Round Nose (1235 fps)
But... But Gorilla... the speed of sound .... the sonic barrier..... copper.... Armageddon!
Yes, yes I know. This is the ammo of Satan. I'm dealing in the black arts, and this is a sure fire way for my cat to get pregnant. Even though I don't own a cat! But its consistent at longer ranges.
Current optic:
Athlon Optics , Talos 6-24 x 50 Second Focal Plane (SFP) 1" Tube, Illuminated ATMR1 MIL Reticle
But.. but.. Gorilla, you could have got a much better <insert brand here> optic....
I have two kids, one in college. I'm lucky I can afford the electricity to post this message! This scope is fabulous and makes wind adjustments a dream.
All that said, I think most of you guys are nuts, and I love it! You take it to a whole new level, and make me want to as well. You are all like enablers of accuracy. I might even write down the humidity levels in my range book from now on. I'm actually really excited to bed teh action and change the mag.
I'm also going to see if my son can get a video of us hitting the golf balls at 220. We do this all the time, every time we go to the range.
I'm shooting golf balls at 220yds consistently. Depending on wind it may take 2-4 shots as I dance just around it.
At 190yds I'm just breaking clay pigeon pieces smaller and smaller until I can't see them anymore.
And I've done NOTHING to the rifle. I purchased it late November.
Stock magazine. (I intend to get a 10 round one.)
I've NOT bedded the action, but I'm going to.
And I've committed the most evil of all .22 sins.... I'm using HV ammo! noes!!!!
And I'm not even using a bag in the rear, just my shoulder. (I've since purchased a monopod for Xmas, and it feels like cheating.)
I bore snake it... when I feel like it. I'm prbly over 2000 rounds easily.
I don't know if I've got the mystical unicorn edition, but it works. I'm zeroed for 100yds. I used 1.5mil hold under for 50yds and will hit dum dum lollypops all day.
This is all before I start testing with expensive ammo. Right now its so freaking cold and windy its pointless. But I will post a 6x5 when it gets warmer. I'm looking for consistency 100yds and beyond. I've had ammo at 50yds look like one hole, and fall apart at 100yds like it was thrown by my grandmother...with her off hand. I really don't care about 50yd groupings if I intend to always shoot further, but I test anyway.
Current front runner ammo:
CCI Mini-Mag High Velocity 22 Long Rifle Ammo 40 Grain Copper Plated Round Nose (1235 fps)
But... But Gorilla... the speed of sound .... the sonic barrier..... copper.... Armageddon!
Yes, yes I know. This is the ammo of Satan. I'm dealing in the black arts, and this is a sure fire way for my cat to get pregnant. Even though I don't own a cat! But its consistent at longer ranges.
Current optic:
Athlon Optics , Talos 6-24 x 50 Second Focal Plane (SFP) 1" Tube, Illuminated ATMR1 MIL Reticle
But.. but.. Gorilla, you could have got a much better <insert brand here> optic....
I have two kids, one in college. I'm lucky I can afford the electricity to post this message! This scope is fabulous and makes wind adjustments a dream.
All that said, I think most of you guys are nuts, and I love it! You take it to a whole new level, and make me want to as well. You are all like enablers of accuracy. I might even write down the humidity levels in my range book from now on. I'm actually really excited to bed teh action and change the mag.
I'm also going to see if my son can get a video of us hitting the golf balls at 220. We do this all the time, every time we go to the range.
Oh, and as far as ejection issues... yeah... I call that Winchester ammo! Its the ONLY one that has so far given me ejection issues. Multiple kinds of Winchester ammo! I can safely say I won't be buying any more.
It’s a decent 2moa “Precision “ plinker. My semi auto $99 marlin 795 outshoots this thing all day long and isn’t picky on ammo. For the price it’s accuracy is deplorable lol it’s an ergonomic plinker but that’s about it. If aluminum tape helps mine out I’ll feel better, but if I could do it again, I’d get a CZ.
to the guys that have bought these rifle and now feel like they want to throw them in the trash, don't get too discouraged. in my experience you can get them to shoot will however you have to be willing to put on a new barrel and do some modifications. I think we were all excited hoping this rifle would be like its big brother and we were all a little let down. There is hope I think for the future.
I paid $369. for my RPRR and with a little aluminum tape and some basic tinkering it consistently shoots MOA out to 100 yds with .06 cent per round CCI SV ammunition; what more should I hope for? While I agree this isn't a perfect rifle, it's a contender for under $400. How much would you have in a CZ, plus a chassis, plus barrel threading, plus an adjustable trigger? You'd have yourself a nice rifle if you modded a stock CZ in this manner but it would cost a lot more than $369.
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It looks like Ruger released a 17hmr and 22wmr version rprr. Does anyone know if you can just drop the 17hmr barrel into the 22lr and load in a 17hmr mag? Similar to how the CZ 455 is.
I too have had what I consider to be great success with my RPRR .22LR shooting CCI SV. I'm a shaky old man with COPD, yet I get cold bore hits on 6" steel @ 250yds shooting in the sitting position with a tall Harris bipod and unsupported rear.
IMO, Ruger limited the capability of this little gem by only offering it with a standard 1:16 barrel. I feel that if it had a 1:14 or even 1:12 twist the pill would spin enough faster to remain stable and be more accurate for longer range shooting. I have a 10/22 with a 1:9 barrel for shooting the Aguilla 60gr SSS rounds, and with the CCI SV ammo it drills bug holes @ 100yds, so I believe that a 1:12 on the RPRR would be awesome.
FWIW, I chronographed the CCI SV that is advertised @ 1070fps, and out of my RPRR it's running @ 1091fps.
IMO, Ruger limited the capability of this little gem by only offering it with a standard 1:16 barrel. I feel that if it had a 1:14 or even 1:12 twist the pill would spin enough faster to remain stable and be more accurate for longer range shooting. I have a 10/22 with a 1:9 barrel for shooting the Aguilla 60gr SSS rounds, and with the CCI SV ammo it drills bug holes @ 100yds, so I believe that a 1:12 on the RPRR would be awesome.
FWIW, I chronographed the CCI SV that is advertised @ 1070fps, and out of my RPRR it's running @ 1091fps.
Out of my RPRR with a Shaw barrel, I was getting the same MV's ( 10 shot averages ranging from 1093 to 1099 with ES's running 21 to 54) and with the factory barrel I was getting averages around 1055 to 1060 fps. (Using Magnetospeed chrono)
Consistent MOA out to 100 huh? Well, I’m not the only one with bad out of the box accuracy. Read this thread and it’s pretty obvious that unless you happen to get a good one they are generally 2moa or more guns, not that big of a deal but a CZ out of the box would shoot lights out. Add the cost of a barrel to the rprr, and time modding (fixing Ruger shortcuts) then I stand with rather getting a CZ to start. Who needs an adjustable trigger if it’s good to start (CZ), and there are threaded options as well. Chassis are for cool kid points as any decent stock works just fine, just my 2 cents.
Spend an hour with it and it will be a consistent 1 moa gun or better. The main issues are easily resolved with less then $10 in mods and a couple 10 round clips which you would probably buy regardless of the gun purchased.
I for one enjoy "tinkering" with a rifle and making it my own. I am also extremely happy with my purchase considering its price. I'm only 400 rounds into the rifle and it is still improving on accuracy, and the only issue I am still having is just an extraction issue maybe 1/20 rounds where it will flip around and stay in the chamber. But I'm still adjusting the extractor and believe I will get that issue resolved on my next adjustment.
If you are having issues with your accuracy please check out RPRim mods thread. If you have not added the ac aluminum tape I would strongly suggest that first. I would be happy to mail you some since I have a full roll sitting on my reloading bench with no current use. The next most significant mod to improve accuracy was switching to the 10 round mag and adjusting the spring tension down.
I have to agree; the rifle is lots of fun to work on. Would I like an aluminum chassis; sure. For the money it's well worth the effort to tune it up.
Yes imo the flex in the chassis is the biggest weakness. Definitely have to be more gentle shooting it then the long action calibers.
I am looking forward to increased aftermarket support for this rifle in the future. Once it's more like the 10/22 and you can source all the bits to enhance its performance easily and somewhat cheaply I think the popularity of this rifle will greatly increase as will its accuracy potential. For many people spending upwards of $2500. dollars on a 22 is just not practical.
chassis and trigger will make me happy
Trigger is on the way from Timney ; should be out before summer (I hope). As for the chassis that is going to require some pretty decent engineering.
So I've just recently developed the "weak ejection" issue with my rifle; it started out new with decent case ejection and it got worse and worse. As of now after about 5 - 600 rds fired, the cases fail to eject and plop onto the top of the unfired cartridges in the magazine. This happens about 2 out of 3 times even when I am working the bolt vigorously. I've seen somewhere that the problem is that the extractor / ejector spring clip (part # 29) weakens over time; the recommendation was to just "bend the clip" back. Well, I tried to bend this thing back and it did nothing to improve my issue. Upon removing this part and inspecting it I have to admit it is a cheaply made component. I called Ruger Customer Service and they were pleasant to deal with but had no solution other than to send me another Ejector / Extractor Spring Clip free of charge. I told them that this is a known problem and the woman said they have no record of it so far.
So moving forward I am going to experiment with the whole "bending the clip" thing until the new part gets here. Like I have said earlier, I look forward to when companies begin to offer aftermarket replacements for all of the "shortcomings" of this rifle. Overall, I still feel it is a decent starter platform that has potential to be an accurate shooter, but it does need tinkering and upgrading in it's current state of delivery to get it to where most of this community would be happy with its performance.
So moving forward I am going to experiment with the whole "bending the clip" thing until the new part gets here. Like I have said earlier, I look forward to when companies begin to offer aftermarket replacements for all of the "shortcomings" of this rifle. Overall, I still feel it is a decent starter platform that has potential to be an accurate shooter, but it does need tinkering and upgrading in it's current state of delivery to get it to where most of this community would be happy with its performance.
Over on the "Rimfire Central" forum, a guy recently posted a video of his extraction problems. His boltface had a little ridge in it that caused his ejector spring clip to hang up on. If he pushed the spring clip off of the ridge, ejection worked fine. Do you have a similar problem?
Upon closer inspection I came to a conclusion that the issue with my rifle is not the spring ejector clip, it is the "shark fin" looking part that is held in with the push pin inside the removable bedding block (part # 54). This is the stationary part that kicks the casing out as the bolt is pulled all the way to the rear. The spent case is grabbed by the extractor and held into place on the bolt face by the ejector spring (spring clip); the spent case stays in this position on the bolt face as the bolt is pulled rearward, near the end of the bolts travel the stationary "shark fin" kicks the case out from under spring tension and out the ejection port.
Due to excessive slop, the "shark fin" was being pushed to the left side and missing the rim of the spent case entirely at the end of the bolts cycle, thus, no case ejection. I don't know what caused this to occur as the rifle used to eject reasonably well, then got weaker, and weaker, then stopped ejecting. I am wondering if maybe my "shark fin" has a tip broken off, but I cannot tell by comparing only to pictures and it doesn't look like it has broken.
So my "fix" was to shim the shark fin in the bedding block so it is pressed to the right side of the block and drags against the shoulder on the bottom of the bolt; this keeps the shark fin in the correct position to eject a spent case.
After the realization that my rifle stopped ejecting after being so new (5 or 6 hundred rounds) I am falling off of the Ruger Prec. Rimfire bandwagon. A customer should have to do all of this re-engineering to make a two month old rifle work. I don't mind doing mod's to tweak and improve performance but am not happy about having to fix things that are design and engineering problems from the factory.
Due to excessive slop, the "shark fin" was being pushed to the left side and missing the rim of the spent case entirely at the end of the bolts cycle, thus, no case ejection. I don't know what caused this to occur as the rifle used to eject reasonably well, then got weaker, and weaker, then stopped ejecting. I am wondering if maybe my "shark fin" has a tip broken off, but I cannot tell by comparing only to pictures and it doesn't look like it has broken.
So my "fix" was to shim the shark fin in the bedding block so it is pressed to the right side of the block and drags against the shoulder on the bottom of the bolt; this keeps the shark fin in the correct position to eject a spent case.
After the realization that my rifle stopped ejecting after being so new (5 or 6 hundred rounds) I am falling off of the Ruger Prec. Rimfire bandwagon. A customer should have to do all of this re-engineering to make a two month old rifle work. I don't mind doing mod's to tweak and improve performance but am not happy about having to fix things that are design and engineering problems from the factory.
Ruger 10/22's ALWAYS extracts (the cartridge is forced out of the chamber by the expanding gases pushing the bolt back and cocking the gun) as this is what cycles the action. The problem is that the "extractor" does not hold he case so the cartridge can be pivoted out of the action when the case "hits" the ejector. In my experience the problem can be easily fixed by purchasing a hardened "extractor" that will not wear causing the jams.
You can get a hardened extractor for the RPRR? If so, where? I don't anticipate my redneck engineered repair to last all that long...
Thanks.
Thanks.
Hey Jmp, what province in Canada do you reside?
here you go YOU sumbitches!
Another great video; covers one of the main issues that I've been having to a "T". Thanks for all of your R & D and videography.
However, I've recently somewhat stopped caring about the "best accuracy" of my RPRR since it has almost stopped ejecting spent cases entirely. The way my rifle currently ejects, I might as well get a sled and just make it a single shot...
However, I've recently somewhat stopped caring about the "best accuracy" of my RPRR since it has almost stopped ejecting spent cases entirely. The way my rifle currently ejects, I might as well get a sled and just make it a single shot...
Could use some help please. Using a new Bore Tech bore guide, I sliced the plastic cover on my Dewey rod pretty good on the (ejector?) that sticks up out of the magazine latch assembly. Sighting through the receiver toward the breech I can see why that happened but am trying to figure out a way around it other than removing the stock. Ideas?
