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Ruger Precision Rimfire

These Green Mountain barrels are seeming more and more enticing to me, but I need to take it one step at a time first. After a new scope, ammo testing and trying different torque settings and thread protector on/off, I can consider a barrel. I will surely keep everyone updated thought the process and I am grateful for everyone's help, opinions and direction! I have a lot of work ahead of me before I even come close to getting discouraged or giving up.
Just work through it systematically,

First, get a scope the you can fully trust, mounted securely & correctly.

Then find a solid shooting platform that is rock solid.

Then use a good (repeatable) shooting form to do your testing.

Lastly, don't make any changes until you can get repeatable & predictable groups. Once you can duplicate the groups (even if large or off the dot) then make changes in a systematic manner.

If it still won’t settle down then maybe try singly loading each round as that eliminates feeding related bullet damage from the shot sequence. (if this makes a difference then correct the feeding issue when fed from a magazine).
 
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Still have NO CLUE what scope to look for though. I reached out to @gr8fuldoug and he is recommending an Athlon, others have recommended Athlon, Vortex, and Nikon. I personally really like my Primary Arms, but I would be stubborn if I didnt at least educate myself on my other options before buying.
I can’t recommend a particular scope, BUT make sure whatever you get has adjustable parallax, preferably down to 25 yds or less.

For example, I got my 7 year old a RPR rimfire and put a Nikon prostaff 3-9 that I had laying around on top

It does not have any parallax adjustment

I could not get a group smaller than 1.5” at 50 yds, and no consistency

I then put a vortex pst 4-16 ffp on top that I took off another rifle and I can consistently get a .5” 10 shot group at 50yds using cci sv,

Eley target yielded a 10 shot .2” group but I need to test more

Bottom line is parallax matters
 
Many folks that have been shooting/hunting for a time have an assortment of 3x9s. The centerfire scopes from Nikon are typically parallax set @100 and the rimfire @50. In the short term since my girls usually shoot @50 on our home range I just adjusted the parallax to 50 with the OL. Easy to do and since I have 4 x 10-22s for them and I am playing with the RPRF its far more cost effective.
 
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Is anyone having any luck with this rifle off the shelf?

So many things wrong with the rifle reported here.

Anyone considering buying one would likely be turned off by all the bad reports here.

Is there any good to report?
Thanks
 
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Is anyone having any luck with this rifle off the shelf?

So many things wrong with the rifle reported here.

Anyone considering buying one would likely be turned off by all the bad reports here.

Is there any good to report?
Thanks

Great question! I think have seen a few through here that have had good luck with theirs off the shelf once they found the right ammo. A lot of the video reviews seemed to be decent too. One thing you have to remember, most people arent going to create an account and get on here to praise the gun. Most will only go through those efforts if they are experiencing issues and want feedback, input, opinions and help. I think there are good ones out there, but it is also going to come down to the individual and what they determine "good" is. Everyone has a different use for the rifle and a different opinion of what acceptable is.
 
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Sean's like these rifles either shoot or they don't. We have a few at or NRL22 matches and most do really well stock. And a few have been updated with benchmark and lija barrels. Mine has been finicky to weather. During the warmer weather the Federal auto target match bulk ammo would shoot a .250 spinner at 75 yards no problem..now that its 30 degrees at best I've struggled to find anything that wants to group under 1 moa at 100.


For score recommendations the Athlon ARES btr is now 599 and alot of scope for the money. My shooting was improved going from.the Argos to the Ares ETR since the reticle is thinner.

I recently picked up a McRee chassis for a CZ455 so I may replacing the RPRR in favor. But it is a fun rifle when it works.

I'm also running the kidd compensator or my form 1 suppressor most of the time and haven't tried without. I might have to.
 

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I’ll try to get some pictures tomorrow but the one I got for my daughter is a shooter (from my perspective)

10 shot groups inside of a 1/2” at 50yds is a good shooting gun for $400 imo
 
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Actually the same can be said of CZ. I’ve read where they complain about them as well.

Maybe not as much though.
 
Great question! I think have seen a few through here that have had good luck with theirs off the shelf once they found the right ammo. A lot of the video reviews seemed to be decent too. One thing you have to remember, most people arent going to create an account and get on here to praise the gun. Most will only go through those efforts if they are experiencing issues and want feedback, input, opinions and help. I think there are good ones out there, but it is also going to come down to the individual and what they determine "good" is. Everyone has a different use for the rifle and a different opinion of what acceptable is.

Keep in mind this; if the rifle shoots great why would you feel the need to write about it. There is an old saying that goes something like this "necessity is the mother of invention". When a shooter has an issue (the necessity) they post it on forums like this. Other forum members post their tips and tweaks (the invention). This gives the appearance that the rife has nothing but problems. Yes the basic chassis design is flawed; I've never been a fan of glass filled nylon. Many shortcuts were taken to produce the rifle. But each shortcut offers a new necessity for the inventors on our forum to solve.
 
Another scope to look at is the SWFA 16x. I have one to shoot 100yards or more and it does the job.
 
Keep in mind this; if the rifle shoots great why would you feel the need to write about it. There is an old saying that goes something like this "necessity is the mother of invention". When a shooter has an issue (the necessity) they post it on forums like this. Other forum members post their tips and tweaks (the invention). This gives the appearance that the rife has nothing but problems. Yes the basic chassis design is flawed; I've never been a fan of glass filled nylon. Many shortcuts were taken to produce the rifle. But each shortcut offers a new necessity for the inventors on our forum to solve.
#brutallyhonest :LOL:
 
I hadn't shot the RPR in a while since the barrel and bolt were replaced by Ruger. My goal when initially purchased was to hopefully convert the gun to .17HM2 for controlling digger squirrels in the filbert orchard behind the house. Threaded barrel was mandatory so it took a while to find a barrel.

Before the barrel swap I shot the .22lr barrel one last time yesterday. A gusty 7-10+mph wind chill that made for sub 30's temp and an occasionally moving target stand.

Full disclosure 50yd target, 3 diamonds were shot with my RAR .17HMR, the other were the RPR with 3 different brands of ammo.
Stock trigger with some creep. Both rifles use Vortex Diamondback HP 4-16 scopes w/ BDC reticles.

i-jCpDcFS-L.jpg

The notes on target clarify the mess. But typically the two factory barrels I've had on the gun consistently toss a random flyer.


i-5cFrjcZ-M.jpg


Before I'm targeted for sub 5-shot group, I had 8 rounds of SK Pistol Match left in a box so I chose 4 & 4 vs 3 & 5.

When I arrived home I cleaned it up and prepped it for the new .17HM2 barrel.

i-xnf4TSs-M.jpg


This barrel mount was a primary reason for purchasing the RPR and after performing the swap this afternoon it was a simple and quick swap. The rifle concept has potential, sadly Ruger's build execution lacks manufacturing attention to detail...… IMO. The flexi factory stock might be the weakest link in the design.

i-rG3WMwD-L.jpg


This design makes a barrel swap a quick and easy procedure.

Hopefully the .17HM2 barrel and ammo will produce Minute of Squirrel groups from 50-135yds and all will be good. (y)
 
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One of the best things I did was reset my expectations for ANY .22lr rifle. How?

Go to the accurate reloading forums and read EVERY THREAD STARTED BY SAEED. Every one. This guy has run tests that none of us have the time or $$$ for. He's shot all at his personal INDOOR 100 yd range. With some of the best 22 rifles money can buy. $8k rifles that shoot no better then this rifle. It was an eye opening time to really spend a day reading all his test threads.


updated:

Yeah... I'll say he's tested ammo...

7043067
 
One of the best things I did was reset my expectations for ANY .22lr rifle. How?

Go to the accurate reloading forums and read EVERY THREAD STARTED BY SAEED. Every one. This guy has run tests that none of us have the time or $$$ for. He's shot all at his personal INDOOR 100 yd range. With some of the best 22 rifles money can buy. $8k rifles that shoot no better then this rifle. It was an eye opening time to really spend a day reading all his test threads.


updated:

Yeah... I'll say he's tested ammo...

(y) Ah Hahhh. . . nice to see someone other than me with a large stash of varied .22 ammo for ongoing testing. My collection looks very similar . . . . even now. But . . . my rifle collection is at the other end of the spectrum (various Rugers).

Just now went to that web site and recognize the targets he's produced. I saw that before and it great to see all those results on paper, where I've only recorded chrono data.

PS: I even have his MOA lists on a page on my spreadsheet for my reference from time to time. He's done about 15 more types of ammo than I have. It's very impressive the amount of time he put into that. And I wonder just how much has changed with some of that ammo since 9 years ago . . .???
 
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Got my scope mounted, and just put a few rounds down range. Right off the bat, this rifle will not eject. Extractor pulls the case out (fired or not), and immediately drops it on top of the magazine. It doesn’t even try to eject it. Run the bolt fast or slow, doesn’t matter, just drops the case. Very disappointing. How does a rifle even leave the factory like this? This rifle is brand new, and already has to go back. Contacted Ruger and they will send me a label to return it. That CZ is looking better every day.
 
Got my scope mounted, and just put a few rounds down range. Right off the bat, this rifle will not eject. Extractor pulls the case out (fired or not), and immediately drops it on top of the magazine. It doesn’t even try to eject it. Run the bolt fast or slow, doesn’t matter, just drops the case. Very disappointing. How does a rifle even leave the factory like this? This rifle is brand new, and already has to go back. Contacted Ruger and they will send me a label to return it. That CZ is looking better every day.

I know exactly how you feel about a rifle leaving the factory like that. I had much the very same problem. But once I figure out what the problem was, it was an easy fix. All the same, one shouldn't have to figure such things out.
 
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I think I may have fixed the errant flyer accuracy issue with my RPR....

i-ntSpCmM-L.jpg


Installed a .17 Mach 2 barrel and started to break it in today.

50yds, 16X scope, TacSol Axiom suppressor, painfully cold hands, stock trigger, Magpul bipod, rear bag, 5 year old Hornady ammo. :geek:
 
I Purchased an RPRR in .22lr cheap and used at my local gun shop. I threw a 4-16x44 primary arms scope on it and started shooting different types of ammo. The second ammo I tried yielded a 5 round 1/2" group at 50 yards. I am new to the "precision" shooting word so I bought this to start learning with. I went to my first competition with this precision rimfire and did way better than expected, I was even able to hit a 6" steel target at 200 yards my first try.

I have not tried other .22 rifles in this manner, however I highly recommend the precision rimfire. buy it, shoot it, have fun!
 
I still have yet to get out and shoot the RPR with the new scope. I did however notice, even with the 10 round mags, that upon loading the bottom part of the bullet scrapes on the chamber and shaves off some of the bullet. I did order a single feed sled that I am going to try, at least for ammo testing and grouping. Once I know I have it grouping the way I want and is zeroed in, I can then use the magazines for plinking. If and when it comes down to shooting for accuracy (and if it makes a difference) I will use the sled.

I did inspect the thread protector and hated that gap in the end and based on everyones feedback, I ditched the protector and added a muzzle brake that was a daily deal on Primary Arms for only $19.99. It looks way better and was a PITA to install, so hopefully it groups well with it on haha.

On that note, how does everyone install, time, and torque a muzzle brake on this rifle? For my AR-15 I have a vice block, but for this (hopefully i didnt damage anything), I just simply clamped the flats on the barrel nut in my vice and timed the muzzle brake. I did not use a torque wrench, but I did use the crush washer and only my armorer's wrench to tighten it, so I couldnt have possibly gotten enough torque to damage anything, right? I hat to time it roughly 3/8 of a turn (slightly under half of the way) which should have been ok since I used the crush washer.
 
I know there were some minor discussions somewhere about the OEM thread protector but does anyone have data for with/without? I could only consider significant data with/without OEM thread protector as possibly reliable indications. Then of course there is replication in which I will be happy to participate. Cheers
 
I know there were some minor discussions somewhere about the OEM thread protector but does anyone have data for with/without? I could only consider significant data with/without OEM thread protector as possibly reliable indications. Then of course there is replication in which I will be happy to participate. Cheers


I don't have any measured data but have put eyes on targets shot with & without the OEM thread protector in place.

My personal RPRR doesn't seem to care if the factory thread protector is on or off as the groups with & without fall within the mean average of all groups. But my personal RPPR does seem to shoot slightly better groups (and I mean just very slightly) with a .22 suppressor on it. But it shoots worse groups with a 9mm suppressor on it (these are measurably larger groups with close fliers). But to be fair I am still using the same baffle alignment in that 9mm suppressor that I use on my 9mm guns. (haven't played baffle alignment to optimize it for the RPRR)

Now my shooting friends RPRR shoots MUCH worse groups with the factory thread protector in place (not measured but very obvious) but he also has something amiss in his barrel, or barrel threading, as he gets occasional baffle contact with his .22 suppressor installed (these 'suppressor' groups are so large that some actually miss the 7"x 11" target backing at 50 yards. He is currently sending his gun back to Ruger for that problem.
 
Hey guys. I'm looking at getting an RPR rimfire to get my son (9) into shooting. He has shot my 223s many times but even those the sound and recoil bother him. I'm thinking the RPR rimfire so that we can both shoot it and it's fairly cheap and accurate out of the box.

Usage will be groups and steel out to 100 yards. Possibly 200 but that would be the exception not the rule.

Any tips on what to look for when picking one out? I know most are good to go but I guess there are some lemons like anything else. This will be my first rim fire buy since I was a teen so I’m asking for what to look for when I have one in my hand at the store pre buy.
 
Hey guys. I'm looking at getting an RPR rimfire to get my son (9) into shooting. He has shot my 223s many times but even those the sound and recoil bother him. I'm thinking the RPR rimfire so that we can both shoot it and it's fairly cheap and accurate out of the box.

Usage will be groups and steel out to 100 yards. Possibly 200 but that would be the exception not the rule.

Any tips on what to look for when picking one out? I know most are good to go but I guess there are some lemons like anything else. This will be my first rim fire buy since I was a teen so I’m asking for what to look for when I have one in my hand at the store pre buy.

Based on my personal RPRR & my friends RPRR

Look at (remove) bolt & look for very poor machining (my personal RPRR has terrible machining on the bolt) lots of dull cutter rings, deep gouges, burrs, & just poor workmanship)

Look to make sure that the handguard is centered (my personal RPPR came with the handguard W-A-Y off center and even with a lot of work it is still not completely centered.

Look at the barrel crown, my friends RPRR has an absolutely ratty and poorly machined barrel crown.
 
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Is anyone having any luck with this rifle off the shelf?

So many things wrong with the rifle reported here.

Anyone considering buying one would likely be turned off by all the bad reports here.

Is there any good to report?
Thanks
I've had great luck with mine off the shelf. tried a LOT of different ammo and found the ones it really likes. Mine shoots eley target and eley force very well. all the way out to 350 with force. over 5k rounds through it so far.
 
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Is anyone having any luck with this rifle off the shelf?

So many things wrong with the rifle reported here.

Anyone considering buying one would likely be turned off by all the bad reports here.

Is there any good to report?
Thanks

Wife bought mine for me for Christmas. About 1,500 rounds through it so far. 1 failure to extract. It does not shoot well with anything high velocity - I have tried everything in my test lot, including a lot of Federal (what used to be Lightning) that has shot very well through a number of other guns. All shotgun-ish groups. It likes CCI SV and Wolf. All rifles require a little transition from one ammo type to another, but it seems this one requires quite a bit more - like 25-50 rounds to settle in. Best group so far is just a hair over .2" at 50 yards. CCI SV average of all groups is probably more than 0.5" and less than 0.75" - I haven't calculated it. Only things I have done are lighten trigger weight and run 10 round mags that I have cleaned and unwound a couple of flats. I also added the TandemKross Companion bumpers to the mags - they don't affect function or accuracy but they sure are handy.

I am really happy with mine. Is it a $3,000 Anschutz? Nope. Not even close. But for a gift that cost less than $400, I have been really happy with mine. It sounds like I have dodged many of the issues others have been reporting. Of course, my report doesn't make all of these rifles great, just as all the negative reports don't mean they are all junk. But that is just like any brand anywhere near this price range- I had a brand new CZ455 that was such a piece of crap it was questionable even as a boat anchor. It is the old pay your money, take your chances game.

Edited to add: A couple of my targets shot with this rifle are in the 6X5 thread if anyone is interested.
 
Based on my personal RPRR & my friends RPRR

Look at (remove) bolt & look for very poor machining (my personal RPRR has terrible machining on the bolt) lots of dull cutter rings, deep gouges, burrs, & just poor workmanship)

Look to make sure that the handguard is centered (my personal RPPR came with the handguard W-A-Y off center and even with a lot of work it is still not completely centered.

Look at the barrel crown, my friends RPRR has an absolutely ratty and poorly machined barrel crown.

Thank you!

Anything else to look for on the rifle while in store?

Also what does everyone think about doing the foil tape bedding? I watched a YouTube of a fellow SH member who did this with success.
 
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Go to the deli section of your local Walmart. Buy one of those little pie's for $0.50. Eat the pie and use the pie tin to bed the action of the RPRR. It's the best $0.50 you can spend to improve accuracy of the rifle.
 
Took mine out for the first time today. Mounted an Athlon Argos BTR FFP 6-24x50, overkill really for what I will be using it for, but does match up nicely function-wise with my Vortex FFP 6-24 on my 6.5 RPR. I was a bit worried about the 30MOA rail, but turns out I was able to zero at 50 with 5 mils to spare, bascially a full revolution left. I haven't decided if I will move the zero to 100 or leave at 50 - but went with 50 today to start breaking in the rifle and trying out some ammo. Otherwise nothing done it it yet other than breaking down and clean and re-align of the rail... why Ruger can't install a rail strait befuddles me lol.

I was stoked as I found a box of Federal AutoMatch that most seem to have good results with in one of my random 22LR ammo cans, I also had some Federal standard target, and CCI MiniMag and Winchester X as well. TBH, even though it's early in the process, I got better results with CCI MiniMag than I did with Federal AutoMatch. Which would be fine with me as I have a LOT of minimag stockpiled lol. Federal Target wasn't terrible, and I didn't even bother with the WinX. On the way home I stopped and picked up some CCI standard velocity which seems to do well for most, as well as some Aguila Super Extra - the yellow/red box, not the blue/white. Not sure what the difference is.

Anyway, had a blast shooting it today. trigger is decent and will probably get better as it works in. I have the Timney in my 6.5 so may upgrade the rimfire as well, haven't decided if I want to spend the $$ yet :). Had a couple of FTE's, maybe 3 out of a 100 rounds or so. I picked up one extra BX15... local shop has some BX25's, but not sure if they will clear on a bench - can anyone confirm? Otherwise I will get him to order a couple more 15's.

Only real complaint is the stiff bolt - mine rocks the rifle up and away unless I break my posture and support the rifle against the bolt lift. It's kinda annoying, not sure if it will loosen up or if it's just such a light rifle it's unavoidable. I'm also using long throw, not that it would matter I don't think but I will try short throw and see if any difference.

Overall I'm pleased, and looking forward to getting it back on the range again :)
 
I just bought my RPRR. After reading this thread, I decided to check it out for noted issues before taking it to the range. I immediately noticed that the 15 round mag was very loose fitting. I compared this mag to five other Ruger 10/22's that I have. The mag plunger on the RPRR did not engage the aft side mag pin ( it had approximate .010 " clearance before spring/ plunger engagement). The other rifles all had a spring load on the mag. I sent the RPRR back to Ruger, excellent customer service. The packing slip noted that the Chassis and magazine had been replaced, with 15 rounds test fired w/o malfunction - when I got the rifle back. When I checked the mag fit it still had the approx. .010" mag pin to plunger gap, with no spring load on the mag to keep it seated. I checked the 10 round mag fit- seemed fully seated with a good forward spring load. The four 15 round mags that I tried were all loose even after solving the plunger preload issue. I tried five different 25 round mags- All were very tight. I sanded the sides of the best fitting 25 round mag, to a light mag drag feel, and got a fit close to a 10 round mag fit. I believe that the mag plunger needs to move forward and exert a sufficient a spring load to keep the magazine seated. If you buy a RPRR check it out by inserting the mag , move it forward and aft, look and feel for movement prior to plunger/mag pin movement. If necessary you can pull the chassis off to get a better look. Will contact Ruger to question why 25 round mags are all tight.
 
Anyway, had a blast shooting it today. trigger is decent and will probably get better as it works in. I have the Timney in my 6.5 so may upgrade the rimfire as well, haven't decided if I want to spend the $$ yet :). Had a couple of FTE's, maybe 3 out of a 100 rounds or so. I picked up one extra BX15... local shop has some BX25's, but not sure if they will clear on a bench - can anyone confirm? Otherwise I will get him to order a couple more 15's.

I've got a couple of BX25's and both have a feeding problem in that they lock firmly, but too high into the receiver where the bolt hangs up a little and just doesn't feed the chamber well. I didn't really plan on using them with this rifle as they ARE pretty long to shoot off of a bench or prone position (unless you've got a 15"+ bipod ;) ). If you're going to use a BX15, just be sure that it locks in snugley so that the feeding isn't contributing to poor consistency.

Only real complaint is the stiff bolt - mine rocks the rifle up and away unless I break my posture and support the rifle against the bolt lift. It's kinda annoying, not sure if it will loosen up or if it's just such a light rifle it's unavoidable. I'm also using long throw, not that it would matter I don't think but I will try short throw and see if any difference.

The bolt will surely loosen up over time, but just how much time can vary from one rifle to another. Mine was pretty stiff and just not running smoothly. When I took it out to inspect it and happened to run my thumb along the long squarish channel and got a pretty good cut. The edge on both sides of that channel was supper sharp, so I took of the edge with a jeweler's file and low and behold. . . the bolt ran smoother, though . . . but still not real smooth. Now that I've run well over 1500 rounds though it plus some dry firing, the bolt is running quite smooth.
 
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@straitshooter1 - thanks, I think I'll stick with 15's then. I'll check out the bolt as well for any edges.

I forgot to mention in my original post, I would have preferred a changeable stock, but at the price point you have to give up some things I guess. The Ruger one is meh. On the 6.5 I'm running a PRS. I guess I'll have to tweak the rimfire one a bit more I think - might flip the check rest around as well.
 
...as well as some Aguila Super Extra - the yellow/red box, not the blue/white. Not sure what the difference is.

White/Red/Yellow box is high velocity (1,255 FPS) copper washed and White/Blue/Yellow box is standard velocity (1,130 FPS) lead solids.
 
I picked up an RPRR right after Christmas. Based on all of the posts here and at RFC looks like I may have gotten the good ones. Took it out to the local range and took my time dialing it in. This was my best 5 round group at 50 yards with the 10 round magazine. Bushnell 3-9 scope, stock barrel, and no mods done to the rifle, although I do have the Kidd plunger with stiffer spring and extended mag release on order.
7048339
 
here you go YOU sumbitches!

Why not make it be required 10 shots? If you can't do it with a full 10 shot mag, keep trying. (Brand new 10/22 Competition w/Nikon 3x9 40 and CCI Mini Mags @ 50 Yards). Now, for most of you this might not be impressive at all but for me this is after a first trip to the range for a few minutes of fire - pry out the non-extracted case - reinsert the mag and repeat four times before quiting. So, for my first ever Ruger thingy - I'm pretty damned happy.
 

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File the extractor hook should fix your problem.
for extraction .
 
I emailed Ruger about my ejection problem, and quickly got a reply with a phone number. Girl on the phone was very friendly, and emailed me a label to send my rifle in to be fixed. They have it now, so hopefully they will get it fixed. I was really impressed with how easy they made it, and there was no attitude or anything. So, the CS on the front in has been great. If they can get it fixed for me we will give it another whirl.
 
I emailed Ruger about my ejection problem, and quickly got a reply with a phone number. Girl on the phone was very friendly, and emailed me a label to send my rifle in to be fixed. They have it now, so hopefully they will get it fixed. I was really impressed with how easy they made it, and there was no attitude or anything. So, the CS on the front in has been great. If they can get it fixed for me we will give it another whirl.
They're very good at initiating the service, but...… I sent mine in with accuracy, headspace, and ejection concerns. It came back with a new barrel and bolt that improved the accuracy but they did nothing about the ejection. It still will leave a round on the magazine unless you're quick on the bolt.

Hopefully they've upped their game. (y)
 
Picked up a couple 10rd mags at local shop today, also found a few more boxes of ammo to try - Federal GM Match and GM Target (white boxes, older I think - not the red-ish/black boxes you normally see), plus some Aquilla that was marked Eley Prime - not sure what it is but grabbed a box anyway.
 
Picked up a couple 10rd mags at local shop today, also found a few more boxes of ammo to try - Federal GM Match and GM Target (white boxes, older I think - not the red-ish/black boxes you normally see), plus some Aquilla that was marked Eley Prime - not sure what it is but grabbed a box anyway.
I'd bet a beer that CCI SV will out-shoot those Federal grades. You might try some SK Standard Plus, Pistol Match and Rifle Match if your budget allows. (y)
 
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I'd bet a beer that CCI SV will out-shoot those Federal grades. You might try some SK Standard Plus, Pistol Match and Rifle Match if your budget allows. (y)

yeah I found 3 boxes of CCI SV earlier this week. Haven't seen any SK but will look out for it. Not finding any higher end stuff locally either, so far limited to big brand stuff. CCI minimags shot really well at 50 and I have a ton of it from stocking up in the past, but would rather find something a bit slower so I can play a further distances.
 
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yeah I found 3 boxes of CCI SV earlier this week. Haven't seen any SK but will look out for it. Not finding any higher end stuff locally either, so far limited to big brand stuff. CCI minimags shot really well at 50 and I have a ton of it from stocking up in the past, but would rather find something a bit slower so I can play a further distances.
Try online at Target Sports, Graf and Sons, and Champions Choice. I've found good pricing and service at all 3.
 
Is anyone making a carbon fiber barrel for the precision rimfire yet? I bought one for my son and he loves the rifle. The only issue we are having is when he has to shoot offhand in matches he is really struggleing with the weight of the barrel. We have been working to improve his strength and on using a sling but a lot of times a sling or other equipment is not allowed. A lighter rifle would make the rifle a lot easier for him to maneuver barricades and shoot off hand with.
 
Is anyone making a carbon fiber barrel for the precision rimfire yet? I bought one for my son and he loves the rifle. The only issue we are having is when he has to shoot offhand in matches he is really struggleing with the weight of the barrel. We have been working to improve his strength and on using a sling but a lot of times a sling or other equipment is not allowed. A lighter rifle would make the rifle a lot easier for him to maneuver barricades and shoot off hand with.
Whistle Pig makes a sleeved aluminum barrel. I just installed one in .17HM2 on my RPR and it's a shooter.
 
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Thanks. I’m looking there right now.

I have one of the first, if not the first 22lr RPRr barrel from him.

Bought it for the same reason (my boy needed a lighter barrel).

Only been out once and it shows promise but weather and schedule has precluded from testing more.

One thing to note is the theads on the barrel are too long if you use a SiCo sparrow.
 
My Tactical Solutions Axiom can fits nicely.

This was Sunday in challenging swirling wind conditions @100yds w/ Hornady HM2 17g.
i-wMcC8S2-L.jpg


Barrel has just over 200 rnds through it. Axiom suppressor, Magpul bipod, 16X Vortex Diamondback HP optic.

Action torque 22 inch pounds front and rear.
Barrel to action 35 ft lbs.

15 @50yds during initial break in.
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Tried a few more ammo types today... basically what I listed above... CCI SV, FGGM, FGGT, Aguila SP, Aquila Eley Prime...

To be honest, none were horrible. Aquila "Eley Prime" was a ragged hole at 50yards, but CCI SV was pretty close to that as well. Both Gold Medal rounds (the older White box style, not the newer stuff) did great as well. The Aguila Super Prime was the worst of the bunch, but still not terrible by any means. I grabbed a brick of CCI SV at the range shop on the way out though :). (Limit 10 boxes, or I would have probably grabbed more). I also picked up some Eley Target that they had to try also, but really if I can group CCI SV like I did today at longer distances I prob won't bother with anything else, esp for the money.

Got home, tore the rifle back down - no issues, just wanted to do the foil bedding deal. Also torqued the screws to 20 in lbs, which is not very much at all. I am kinda dissapointed in the trigger though, low as I can get it is 2-6. I keep reading about all these 1lb + stock triggers but mine isn't having any of that. Still may need some more break in maybe. I also stopped by the Sporting Goods store again and grabbed 3 more 10rd mags - for $32 I figure might as well have a few more.

Here's the Aquila "Eley Prime" on the left - not sure exactly what it is - I assume Aquila branded Eley or they licensed the name maybe? Anyway it shot great, but I think it's discontinued - now they only list Aquila Prime. I can get more of the older stuff, but it's kinda spendy compared to the CCI.

 
That Aguila Match Competition you have has been replaced by the "Aguila Primed" version. But it really didn't shoot any better than the inexpensive Super Extra Standard Velocity for me.
 
I have tried quite a few flavors of the Aguila ammo and haven’t been able to get any of them to shoot well. Maybe I just haven’t found the right lot.