Savage 110 elite precision

MDT_Josh

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@MDT_Josh ever run into this where the barre isn’t dead center of the Handguard?
We have run into that issue on our ESS chassis where the forend is a seperate piece from the chassis body, but it very rarely happens on our one piece chassis. There is a slight chance that it is either spring back from machining or a potentially warped blank, either way, I would contact Savage and let them know. @POI_Shift what is the correct process?

Josh
 

BoltActionBrotherhood

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We have run into that issue on our ESS chassis where the forend is a seperate piece from the chassis body, but it very rarely happens on our one piece chassis. There is a slight chance that it is either spring back from machining or a potentially warped blank, either way, I would contact Savage and let them know. @POI_Shift what is the correct process?

Josh
Thanks for getting back to me, I mean it shot great so not sure if it affects anything, mine favored the right side by about .100
 
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POI_Shift

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the barrels are straightened to the bore not the OD so you can get some deviation between the diameters however You can reach out to CS and send them pics and they will address it.
 

BoltActionBrotherhood

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the barrels are straightened to the bore not the OD so you can get some deviation between the diameters however You can reach out to CS and send them pics and they will address it.
Thank you for the information. Again the rifle shot and performed great, are there any issues that could be caused from not having the barrel center with the Chassis?
 

Chickentoast

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^Just chuckles from gun snobs, until they see your groups and "have to leave" LOL
 

Chickentoast

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Trigger is the biggest drawback to Savage for me - I have a Stealth Evo and have taken the blade out of the equation with a piece of paper clip and a bead of silicon, which makes it better, but it's still no gem. If only they had a Triggertech option - then the feel would be on par with the performance. Mine prints 75 eld-m's over N140 in ~1.5" @ 500. Still thinking about picking one up in 338, or wait for the 300 Norma (assuming still planned).
 

Corprin

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My 12lrp came with the red blade “target” accutrigger, and once I bumped it up to about 1.8lb it’s fantastic. I use the blade as my first stage, then the final brake.... but I cut my teeth on shitty USGI triggers.

Are you having issue with the break, feel, or the dropping of the hammer if you cycle the bolt too hard/quick?
 

BoltActionBrotherhood

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Trigger is the biggest drawback to Savage for me - I have a Stealth Evo and have taken the blade out of the equation with a piece of paper clip and a bead of silicon, which makes it better, but it's still no gem. If only they had a Triggertech option - then the feel would be on par with the performance. Mine prints 75 eld-m's over N140 in ~1.5" @ 500. Still thinking about picking one up in 338, or wait for the 300 Norma (assuming still planned).
I dont mind the trigger at all. But who makes a good aftermarket trigger for the savage 110?
 

want2learn

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It's interesting, the gun magazines so often comment favorably on both feel and function of the new Savage triggers. It's a bit disconcerting to hear that in practice they're not all that desirable.

I see these rifles on sale for about 1500 dollars or so before shipping, taxes, transfer fees etc. and so had strongly considered one. I do prefer a nice trigger.
 

Corprin

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I think the issue is three fold.

1. Magazines print a lot of rubbish, but also these guys shoot a whole lot more than most of us, so I don’t take their word for gospel... but I don’t discount it either.

2. People butch when they don’t like something, but rarely comment on the good.

3. Many in this hobby fix bad marksmanship skills by throwing money at the symptoms rather than treating the disease.

I like my trigger to have a clean break and a bit of take-up to let me know when it’s coming. I also like triggers between 1.5 and 2.5lbs for my precision work. Anything lighter always seems to lead to NDs, likely due to neurological issues. So for me, the red-blade accutrigger is good enough that I’ve never considered replacing it.
 
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Steel head

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It's interesting, the gun magazines so often comment favorably on both feel and function of the new Savage triggers. It's a bit disconcerting to hear that in practice they're not all that desirable.

I see these rifles on sale for about 1500 dollars or so before shipping, taxes, transfer fees etc. and so had strongly considered one. I do prefer a nice trigger.
There is a huge variance in them.
I got lucky with mine.
with a target spring it’s running nicely and consistently at a pound and a half and I was running it at just under a pound for a while.
That trigger has worn out a few barrels now.

I’ve felt a few that were pretty bad.

Trusting the words of gun writers is about as foolish as trusting a politician.
 
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BoltActionBrotherhood

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It's interesting, the gun magazines so often comment favorably on both feel and function of the new Savage triggers. It's a bit disconcerting to hear that in practice they're not all that desirable.

I see these rifles on sale for about 1500 dollars or so before shipping, taxes, transfer fees etc. and so had strongly considered one. I do prefer a nice trigger.
These rifles are a STEAL, the trigger I think feels very nice. Nice an crisp, came from the factory at 1.5lbs. I have not shot a lot of savages but this trigger feels very good. To the point, I don't think I will ever try and replace it. There is also ways to make this trigger a LOT lighter with some simple modifications.
 

Steel head

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These rifles are a STEAL, the trigger I think feels very nice. Nice an crisp, came from the factory at 1.5lbs. I have not shot a lot of savages but this trigger feels very good. To the point, I don't think I will ever try and replace it. There is also ways to make this trigger a LOT lighter with some simple modifications.
I’d be careful trying to a lot lighter with the savage target trigger unless you very gingerly close the bolt in pristine clean conditions.
 

want2learn

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Thanks appreciate the comments, didn't mean to misdirect the thread but very interested in the rifle.

Steel head...are the triggers/rifles prone to negligent discharge? I ask because I shoot/prefer a comparatively light trigger in my 1911s (1.5 lb) for many years...i have to measure my rifle trigger pull weight but i would imagine it's on the lighter side of things.
 

BoltActionBrotherhood

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I’d be careful trying to a lot lighter with the savage target trigger unless you very gingerly close the bolt in pristine clean conditions.
This came from the factory with a 1.5lb trigger adjustment. Others have told me they got it to 14 oz without any issues at all.
 

Steel head

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Thanks appreciate the comments, didn't mean to misdirect the thread but very interested in the rifle.

Steel head...are the triggers/rifles prone to negligent discharge? I ask because I shoot/prefer a comparatively light trigger in my 1911s (1.5 lb) for many years...i have to measure my rifle trigger pull weight but i would imagine it's on the lighter side of things.
Not really because of the safety lever on the trigger.
They tend to skip of the sear when closing the bolt locking the trigger solid.
Watch how gingerly some of the BR and f class guys have to close their bolts with the savage target trigger set light.
I’ve seen it happen with regular accu triggers when people back off the adjustment spring too much as well.
 

Steel head

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This came from the factory with a 1.5lb trigger adjustment. Others have told me they got it to 14 oz without any issues at all.
I was at 14 ounces.
14 ounces isn’t a lot lighter

I didn’t like it and brought it back up to a 1 1/2 pounds.
Shoot just as well with better control.

At 14oz I only had one day where I had issues and it was sorta cold that day.
 

Eaglearcher20

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I'm not saying the trigger is bad. My dad has a couple savage 10/110's and swears by them. The trigger is fine, but i just have my preference of a flat 2 stage trigger 2.5/2.5lb. Just wondered if there were any good options available.
 

Steel head

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I'm not saying the trigger is bad. My dad has a couple savage 10/110's and swears by them. The trigger is fine, but i just have my preference of a flat 2 stage trigger 2.5/2.5lb. Just wondered if there were any good options available.
I don’t know of any two stage options ,,,welcome to savage land.
 
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Chickentoast

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My Stealth Evo is approx 1.5# with stock spring backed all the way out, and blade rigged out of the way. The blade spring is heavier than the trigger at this point, and if the trigger was any lighter, I could see risk of accidental discharge on bolt close or jarring of the rifle. So, given the choice of keeping the trigger at this weight without the blade, or keeping the blade and lightening the trigger some more - I chose the former.

I have a Triggertech Diamond on a 700 (best), a set trigger on a CZ, and a Tikka with a spring. All feel better to me, but the Savage trigger, without the blade anyway, isn't an impediment to me shooting well, it just doesn't feel as nice.
 

agioiella

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Agioiella, how do you like the new stock compared to the GRS seen in the adjoining rifle?

I've heard some concerning reports regarding Savage rifle actions but i must admit i've never had any problems with my 112V and your photo sure looks great.
So far i like them i have 3 and I have not had any issues with any of them. Now that being said the elite and the grs only have 6 rounds through them, I have a older model 10 that has around 300 rounds in it and never had a issue with it either.
 

ranger3

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I have a 12lrp in .260. Shoots way better than I can. <1/2” all day with factory Berger match loads.

(With my new glass)
View attachment 7250188

10rds @100yrd, Berger 136 Scenar-L match ammo.
View attachment 7250189
Rifle and glass/mounting for all day hits on 8” plate at 800yrd... $1500 all in.

That new tin bolted thing is sweet for a factory offering from savage. My 111 and 10 based rifles were not bad, but the “target” actions like my 12LRP made me more of a believer.

If the model 110 you are looking at is a small shank (looks to be), then it’s an easy conversion step into a Bighorn/Zwhatever origin or TL3 with what ever barrel you already have at the time. I have a Shilen select match stainless varmint in 6.5x55 just waiting for me to get that TL3 I’ve been putting off for when my 12LRP gets boring.

If you are considering ever growing out of a short action, you can get a bolt baffle for about $6 that will reduce bolt stroke for a SA length round.

I have built a few savage bases rifles and love the LEGO nature of the platform. They are not the same as a “custom” action, but for the money they are hard to beat.
I have a 6.5 Creedmoor in model 12 lrpv that has shot .335 with factory ammo and under 1 inch group at 540 yards. It does this consistently.
 

ATC4USMC

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So Ive read these posts and all the other similar posts about savage accuracy; why is there so many people that dislike savage? As soon as Im able to leave the house and do some shooting, Im picking up this EP and not thinking twice about it!
 

Steel head

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So Ive read these posts and all the other similar posts about savage accuracy; why is there so many people that dislike savage? As soon as Im able to leave the house and do some shooting, Im picking up this EP and not thinking twice about it!
Because they a a bit of a dead end and money trap.
If you ever want to upgrade to a nicer action you can’t use that chassis.
Resale value on built up savage rifles and parts is bordering on tragic.
Savage rifles have strong tendencies for extraction and ejection weakness.

I say all that with plenty of experience with a savage.
If your OK with their limitations then go forth and be savage happy.
 

AznTactical

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This Savage is 1 of my top 2 rifles I'm looking to purchase. The other is a MPA PMR rifle. Can any current users tell me if the bottom of the chassis is cutout for MLOK pattern. I'm still old school and using picatinny and don't plan on changing to ARCA anytime soon.
 

BoltActionBrotherhood

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This Savage is 1 of my top 2 rifles I'm looking to purchase. The other is a MPA PMR rifle. Can any current users tell me if the bottom of the chassis is cutout for MLOK pattern. I'm still old school and using picatinny and don't plan on changing to ARCA anytime soon.
Yes, it’s mlok on the bottom, that’s what I am currently running for my bipod.
 
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7fingers

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Hello everyone, new here... I just purchased the 338 Lapua model and while installing external M-LOK weights realized that the barrel is crooked in the chassis. I took the action out and reinstalled it to 65 in pounds and it looks the same. It is still free-floating, but noticeably canted to the right. I've not put a scope on it yet or shot it, so it might be a tack driver, but I am new to Savage, new to bolt guns, and new to a chassis, so I don't know if this is an issue I should be concerned about.

Thanks in advance for your advice / comments.
Just got mine put together also and I have the same issue! Must say that I am not that impressed with the Chassis alignment although it shouldn’t affect the accuracy of the rifle it still looks like shit.
 

AznTactical

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Can current owners tell me what these 2 holes on the side of the receiver and the countersunk holes on the bottom are used for?
 

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Capt. Doug

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Anyone seen these? Curious about what a blueprinted, nitrided savage action would feel like. My hunting rifle is a savage 116, and it's an accurate workhorse, but holy shit is the bolt lift and close stiff as hell. That's a big reason why I want to upgrade to something higher quality. Just another savage 110 stealth with a different chassis?
 

Capt. Doug

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Anyone seen these? Curious about what a blueprinted, nitrided savage action would feel like. My hunting rifle is a savage 116, and it's an accurate workhorse, but holy shit is the bolt lift and close stiff as hell. That's a big reason why I want to upgrade to something higher quality. Just another savage 110 stealth with a different chassis?
 

Capt. Doug

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I purchased a Savage Model 110 Elite Precision in short action .223/5.56. I mounted M-Lok, Harris Bipod, Vortex Precision Rings and Vortex Razor Gen II 4.5 X 27 and headed to the range. The rifle would not feed PERIOD ! The bolt pushed the first round out the MDT polymer magazine to the 12'oclock position above the chamber. The following rounds were pushed nose down in the magazine. Contacted MDT and they asked for videos of the problem which I sent. Their first response was "The magazine spring was weak". They sent me a new mag and I alson bout a metal mag from Altus. Both new mags gave me the same results. MDT then sked for still photos of the bolt from all angles. I sent them the pictures of the bolt. MDT then said the front Bolt Baffle was too long. I contacted my local Savage rep who put me in touch with the VP of Sales for Savage who passed me off to the Technical Assistance person. Neither MDT or Savage Arms had a clue what was wrong.
Long story longer the rifle was shipped back to Savage for repair over a week ago. As of this morning 4/9/20 the rifle has not even been logged into their computer system as having been received. I paid full bore retail for a gun that does not function. Biggest Nightmare of any rifle I have ever bought new or used. I have two 6.5 Creedmoor factory rifles from Ruger, one is the RPR and the other is a Long Range Hawkeye and never had one single problem. They also shoot sub MOA. This is my first and last purchase of a Savage Product.
 

Capt. Doug

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Thanks BoltAction, I am afraid I didn't receive a fluke ! I hope so for Savage Arms sake. I bought the .223/5.56 to shoot mid range out to 500 yards. I finally got a reply from the CEO of Savage that he had followed up on my rifle and it is on its way home. I have not received the name of the shipper or a tracking number so I can have an idea when It will be back home. I hope Vista selling Savage Arms to independent investors was not due to quality and or problems but to simply put more money into Federal Ammo since that is their big money maker. We will see !
 

nikonNUT

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Flukes happen with new products, I can tell you I am beyond satisfied with my purchase of my Savage elite in 338.
My LGS just got an sniper gray Elite Precision in .338LM in yesterday. What a beast of a rifle and the trigger surprised me. Not the quality of my Trigger Tech Diamond but for a mass produced job I was really impressed! I may have to grab it. Would you happen to know if the pic rail on the .338 is 0 MOA or 20MOA?
 

Capt. Doug

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nikonNut, My understanding is all The Savage Elite Precisions have a 20 MOA pic rail ! The right side of the rail is marked in white letters 20 MOA on the .223/5.56. The 20 MOA mark is right above the bolt release.
Good luck with your purchase. I was impressed with mine until I tried to shoot it and the rifle would not feed from the polymer coated MDT Magazine. My rifle is supposed to be on its way back from the factory after repairs.
 

nikonNUT

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nikonNut, My understanding is all The Savage Elite Precisions have a 20 MOA pic rail ! The right side of the rail is marked in white letters 20 MOA on the .223/5.56. The 20 MOA mark is right above the bolt release.
Good luck with your purchase. I was impressed with mine until I tried to shoot it and the rifle would not feed from the polymer coated MDT Magazine. My rifle is supposed to be on its way back from the factory after repairs.
Thank you for the information! I'll double check the one at my LGS. I didn't see any markings but I wasn't looking very close. I can only hope there is a 20 MOA rail as a 0 would just be dumb on a .338LM. Thanks again!
 

Rocketmandb

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Because they a a bit of a dead end and money trap.
Pretty much this. I have a Savage with an HS Precision stock that was one of my earlier purchases and one I've spent a fair amount upgrading because I refuse to get rid of it. The rifle shoots really well and has been reliable, but I've only been able to take it to a certain point. Upgrades are limited. If you just want to buy a rifle and be done with it, then it may work for you. Again, I'm not unhappy with mine, but if I had it to do all over again, I'd buy a 700 clone.
 

nikonNUT

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So the LGS gave me a pretty good deal on the .338LM and I jumped! After seller a few things that haven't seen the light of day in a long time I'm in the gun for about 600. Grabbed an Athalon Ares ETR UHD and a Spuhr mount for the optics package and ordered new screws for the pic rail (Thank you Bolt Action Reloader!) as well as a case and a bunch of cleaning stuff. Now I just need parts to arrive and to grab some cheap ammo for barrel break-in. Fingers crossed!
 

Chickentoast

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^^
 

Capt. Doug

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Chickentoast, I had a bad experience with a Savage Elite Precision in .223 / 5.56 ! When I took the rifle to the range the first time it would not feed. I posted an epistle on what happened and ended up sending it back to the factory. I am going to the range tomorrow and see if the problem is solved. I wanted to give you one idea that may help with the original mag sent with the rifle. It is polymer coated and between the mag and the bolt it is like trying to shove a square peg in a round hole. Long story longer I purchased an "Accurate Mag" AICS compatible which is Teflon coated metal. It has made a world of difference. The bolt has smoothed out and the rounds go into battery with half of the effort. Just my experience with the MDT made polymer coated mag with Savage logo vs a Teflon coated metal mag. Hope this helps if you experience any issues with a rough and tuff bolt closure.
Good Shooting.
Capt. Doug