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Savage Impulse

You're making my point. Two, recent made, US market, straight pull rimfire rifles that have not sold in enough quantity to gain traction.
I always saw Browning T-bolts in my local box stores. No one ever bought them though.
Why buy a Summit when you can just get a semi auto 10/22 right?
 
by the sentiment the Fortner beats anything by a long shot. I just don’t think many of those comments are referencing Biathlon

Fortner has a huge problem right now - I have several friends interested in biathlon, and the nearest club only allows biathlon-specific rifles, and they’ve been sold out in the US for months (with a trickle of I think ~5 rifles per month going to back orders).

Savage, at least, can be counted on to have stuff on shelves.
 
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Fortner has a huge problem right now - I have several friends interested in biathlon, and the nearest club only allows biathlon-specific rifles, and they’ve been sold out in the US for months (with a trickle of I think ~5 rifles per month going to back orders).

Savage, at least, can be counted on to have stuff on shelves.
I can have at least 6 1827 biathlon’s in my hands Monday. Where are you seeing they are sold out and where have you looked? They come into the country 3-4 times a year and in quantities far higher than 5.
 
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I can have at least 6 1827 biathlon’s in my hands Monday. Where are you seeing they are sold out and where have you looked? They come into the country 3-4 times a year and in quantities far higher than 5.

I see you’re a commercial supporter; what’s your website so I can point my friends in your direction?

I checked gun.deals, EuroOptic, gunbroker, bud’s, etc. once every couple weeks from September through November. To be fair, everything currently seems to be in stock everywhere - thanks for the poke!
 
I see you’re a commercial supporter; what’s your website so I can point my friends in your direction?

I checked gun.deals, EuroOptic, gunbroker, bud’s, etc. once every couple weeks from September through November. To be fair, everything currently seems to be in stock everywhere - thanks for the poke!

Anschutz North America
 
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Why buy a Summit when you can just get a semi auto 10/22 right?
I have two PWS Summits and several 10/22's. Screw a suppressor on and the difference is large. Love em both but I shoot gophers all summer and hardly use the semi. More fun and so much more quite to run a toggle. I will admit that it's the cost that makes them rare.
 
From savage:

“Savage 110 aftermarket stocks are not compatible with Impulse inletting. We are working with our partners to ensure they have access to make stocks available to our customers. Impulse utilize a Savage 110 barrel, threaded into a barrel extension. The barrel extension technology is not found on Model 110s.”
 
From savage:

“Savage 110 aftermarket stocks are not compatible with Impulse inletting. We are working with our partners to ensure they have access to make stocks available to our customers. Impulse utilize a Savage 110 barrel, threaded into a barrel extension. The barrel extension technology is not found on Model 110s.”

So much for throwing it in my Oryx.
 
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You can see in the videos where the barrel extension is shown that it's different. There's a "block" under the screws that hold the extension in where the front action screw is. What I wonder is if the action screw spacing is the same as the model 10, and you could possibly inlet a current aftermarket stock with the new inlet to make it work.
 
I only know a couple people who even know what either of those are, lol. If Savage did this they would be on the shelves in big box stores and would get better exposure.

Well I owned a summit and regret selling it.
It was finicky when cycled slowly and I needed a barrel pushed to remove their barrel but the action was cool and the kids could operate it easier than a bolt action and yet it didn’t get to a semi auto speed with them so they couldn’t blow through ammo as fast.

The summit sales were affected by who brought it out. PWS isn’t as popular as savage, and tack on the high price tag of the summit and there are guys that won’t spend that cash on a rimfire (especially if it looks like a 10/22).


The only T-bolt I’ve shot and hunted with was ok but no where near as smooth as the Russian or Anschutz actions. It wasn’t as smooth as my summit either.
Handled nice though.

savage rimfire with this style of action for around CZ prices would be awesome
 
Really cool things i don’t want to be caught with by my friends...

It’s still a moped...
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They are models but...
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And this is still a Savage...
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I'd take the Savage and the girl on the right. My Concours would devour that scooter.

I had no illusions about this design fitting an existing inlet. There's more space between trigger and magazine, and the barrel extension adds bulk to the front end. If the extension design accepts current prefit barrels, that's a big enough compatibility win for me.
It shouldn't be too big a trick for someone like MDT/Oryx to accommodate the new inlet.
 
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Then thick Models I’m okay with, only 1 I don’t find attractive.

Also have a blast riding a stock scooter, and that’s also owning a built up street hike.

The savage, will have to see how it turns out to the masses before I ever go that route.

Is my manhood okay?
 
Asking because I don’t know, but should there be any concern about the small locking balls bearing surface to the receiver overtime creating dimples and possibly changing headspace

What are the odds that this very same question occurred to Savage engineers and then they engineered the answer?
 
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Amazed at the folks who think the current Savage product is just like the product 10-20 years ago. I know a lot of you geezers had a bad experience in the past but I have a 3 year old Savage 10 FCP-SR that has *never* let me down and shot .75 MOA right-out -the -box and now shoots as good as anything else I have shot...no fails to eject. No fails to feed. Fabulous gun. Not as smooth as a Custom but it didn't cost me $6K either.

New Savage > Old Savage.

VooDoo
 
First and foremost, I know nothing about straight pull actions but I'm very interested in purchasing an Impulse to try. However, something I noticed in these two videos is that the bolt handle moves slightly rearward under recoil. I know in rotating bolt actions the handle will have some movement but is this a concern (from a safety perspective) considering rearward movement of the bolt handle is what initiates the unlocking of the action. Was also watching the last video to try and figure out why it would move under recoil. (first 3 seconds) and first 12 seconds and again at 3 minutes 20 seconds
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I see what you're talking about. I would guess that is caused by the inertia of the mass in the bolt handle itself, and that it's happening at the end of the rearward movement of the gun during recoil. In which case, the bullet should be long gone and chamber pressure subsided to atmospheric levels. If you could concentrate enough mass in the bolt knob it might actually open the action a bit, kinda like a Benelli. Mind you, though, excess mass in the bolt handle could also produce unnecessary stress on the locking toggle at the beginning of the recoil impulse. A slow-motion video would be interesting.
 
I can’t see it in the video. In your second marked screenshot the rifle is further aft then the first, reference the aft scope ring vs. the post in the background. With a fixed camera position that would appear to show a different bolt handle angle when it possibly isn’t.
 
I can’t see it in the video. In your second marked screenshot the rifle is further aft then the first, reference the aft scope ring vs. the post in the background. With a fixed camera position that would appear to show a different bolt handle angle when it possibly isn’t.
I had to watch it 0.25 speed playback in order to notice it (or maybe I'm seeing shit), especially in the first video. It's possible it is an illusion based off the camera position though.
I see what you're talking about. I would guess that is caused by the inertia of the mass in the bolt handle itself, and that it's happening at the end of the rearward movement of the gun during recoil. In which case, the bullet should be long gone and chamber pressure subsided to atmospheric levels. If you could concentrate enough mass in the bolt knob it might actually open the action a bit, kinda like a Benelli. Mind you, though, excess mass in the bolt handle could also produce unnecessary stress on the locking toggle at the beginning of the recoil impulse. A slow-motion video would be interesting.
A 240fps slow mo video definitely would be very interesting; 0.25 playback isn't slow enough. Your bolt mass inertia theory sounds very possible. I know it happens on triggers on dropped handguns. The stress on the locking toggle and possible premature failure of the part has crossed my mind as well as sloppy fit and tolerance of the locking toggle.
 
I had to watch it 0.25 speed playback in order to notice it (or maybe I'm seeing shit), especially in the first video. It's possible it is an illusion based off the camera position though.

A 240fps slow mo video definitely would be very interesting; 0.25 playback isn't slow enough. Your bolt mass inertia theory sounds very possible. I know it happens on triggers on dropped handguns. The stress on the locking toggle and possible premature failure of the part has crossed my mind as well as sloppy fit and tolerance of the locking toggle.
Yeah, I wouldn't worry about the locking toggle as it is. Only brought that up in the context of considering how the action would behave as one increased the mass of the bolt handle.

I'd gladly try an Impulse. Will be interesting to see how quickly some compatible chassis stocks show up on the market.
 
In your second marked screenshot the rifle is further aft then the first, reference the aft scope ring vs. the post in the background. With a fixed camera position that would appear to show a different bolt handle angle when it possibly isn’t.
BS, I haven't busted the protractor out yet but the bolt handle is very clearly several degrees off from the first pic, and in a different position relative to the triggerguard or anything else you want to measure off of. The rifle has moved straight back but it's angle relative to the camera hasn't changed enough to skew perception of just one part of it that far.
 
Not worried about any percieved bolt movement and if its there, it may be because of dropping pressure within the locked action.

Its like how some bolt rifles have movement of the bolt handle after firing.

Straight pulls are plenty safe and strong but I can see how it might seem like the bolt would just swing back, like a semi auto bolt or misassembled ross.
 
My guess would be the handle is moving because of the firing pin dropping. On other straight pull rifles the last movement of the bolt handle is the cocking of the firing pin. And if they modeled this rifle off of the sr 30 then that would make sense. With the ball bearings engaging before the firing pin is cocked.
 
I'm hoping desperately they offer the Impulse long action with 3.870 AICS magazines. I have a Bartlein 30" barrel in 300 RUM, 5R, 19-18 gain twist, proprietary stainless steel with 6 flutes on order that when it finally arrives my great-great-grandchildren can screw on. If Savage were to come out with an Impulse MDT chassis deal like the Elite Precision LA, I'd be all over it like white on rice. Who's kiddin'? I'll be all over it anyway.

My current Savage Elite Precision LA ran like a dream right out of the box. All I had to do was replace all the parts in the bolt head with SSS pieces/parts, tweak the magazine feed lips 2 or 3 times, replace the trigger with an Elfmann (I don't like Accutriggers), then spend a few short hours polishing/cleaning the grit out of it, replace all the way too short screws in the Picatinny rail with the correct length and then actually put Loctite on them, and it was ready to go right out of the box. Right out of the box I tell you! It was flippin' amazing. It shoots and like a laser and feeds and extracts like it knows what to do with a loaded and fired round.

Truth is if they come out with an Impulse long action AICS with an MDT ACC chassis I don't care if I have to boil it, I'll snap it up so fast my credit card will burst into flames. Do I sound over enthusiastic? Sorry, covid has had me trapped for too long.
 
I'm hoping desperately they offer the Impulse long action with 3.870 AICS magazines. I have a Bartlein 30" barrel in 300 RUM, 5R, 19-18 gain twist, proprietary stainless steel with 6 flutes on order that when it finally arrives my great-great-grandchildren can screw on. If Savage were to come out with an Impulse MDT chassis deal like the Elite Precision LA, I'd be all over it like white on rice. Who's kiddin'? I'll be all over it anyway.

My current Savage Elite Precision LA ran like a dream right out of the box. All I had to do was replace all the parts in the bolt head with SSS pieces/parts, tweak the magazine feed lips 2 or 3 times, replace the trigger with an Elfmann (I don't like Accutriggers), then spend a few short hours polishing/cleaning the grit out of it, replace all the way too short screws in the Picatinny rail with the correct length and then actually put Loctite on them, and it was ready to go right out of the box. Right out of the box I tell you! It was flippin' amazing. It shoots and like a laser and feeds and extracts like it knows what to do with a loaded and fired round.

Truth is if they come out with an Impulse long action AICS with an MDT ACC chassis I don't care if I have to boil it, I'll snap it up so fast my credit card will burst into flames. Do I sound over enthusiastic? Sorry, covid has had me trapped for too long.
But do you actually want one?
 
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I don’t often post here anymore, but since I saw this discussion on the new Savage Impulse I thought I’d share my impressions since I’ve had one for about a month now and put about 100 rounds through it. This is only the second Savage that I’ve owned, and didn’t shoot the first very much. I purchased the Predator model in 6.5CM as a hunting rifle. Using the same reloads that I’ve used for years now, Berger 140gr VLD Hunting on 42gr RL17. The rifle is giving 2690 fps and 100yd 3 shot groups were all under 1”, with the best slightly over 1/2”. Trigger pull was 2.2lbs and I haven’t messed with it. Nice and smooth with a crisp release and no discernible creep. I have a Swarovski DL scope and the combination has shot consistently well on 18” steel out to 730 yards. The action is solid and smooth, with shells ejecting fully and landing consistently near each other, when I don’t move the rifle. That being said, there is a learning curve to working the action. You have to develop new muscle memory. In my case I had to play with the bolt handle angle to find what works right for me. It’s very easy to change without tools. As it came, I would bind the bolt at full throw frequently but changing the angle and regular dry fire practice running the bolt has eliminated that issue. I like the rifle a lot and can work that bolt much faster than I ever could a traditional bolt. Very solidly built rifle. 100 rounds and I still haven’t cleaned it. Since it will be a hunting rifle I want to see how well it will handle dirt and grim. Other than scope and bipod the only thing I added was a tactical style bolt knob for a better grip. If you have any questions, just ask here or drop me a PM.
 
I don’t often post here anymore, but since I saw this discussion on the new Savage Impulse I thought I’d share my impressions since I’ve had one for about a month now and put about 100 rounds through it. This is only the second Savage that I’ve owned, and didn’t shoot the first very much. I purchased the Predator model in 6.5CM as a hunting rifle. Using the same reloads that I’ve used for years now, Berger 140gr VLD Hunting on 42gr RL17. The rifle is giving 2690 fps and 100yd 3 shot groups were all under 1”, with the best slightly over 1/2”. Trigger pull was 2.2lbs and I haven’t messed with it. Nice and smooth with a crisp release and no discernible creep. I have a Swarovski DL scope and the combination has shot consistently well on 18” steel out to 730 yards. The action is solid and smooth, with shells ejecting fully and landing consistently near each other, when I don’t move the rifle. That being said, there is a learning curve to working the action. You have to develop new muscle memory. In my case I had to play with the bolt handle angle to find what works right for me. It’s very easy to change without tools. As it came, I would bind the bolt at full throw frequently but changing the angle and regular dry fire practice running the bolt has eliminated that issue. I like the rifle a lot and can work that bolt much faster than I ever could a traditional bolt. Very solidly built rifle. 100 rounds and I still haven’t cleaned it. Since it will be a hunting rifle I want to see how well it will handle dirt and grim. Other than scope and bipod the only thing I added was a tactical style bolt knob for a better grip. If you have any questions, just ask here or drop me a PM.

Thanks for the update. Will be curious to see if you prefer this bolt manipulation style over traditional lift/pull.
 
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I have not gotten my hands on this Savage yet, but I’ve had a Sig R93 since 2001 and it’s completely replaced my traditional bolt guns. I haven’t hunted with a tradition bolt since I got it. The only reason I keep my traditional bolt guns is they have a lot of sentimental value to me; that’s how much I prefer a straight pull.
 
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I picked up an Impulse Predator in 243, and finally shot it yesterday. Impressions:
The action is a lot smoother than I expected. -- Ample amounts of Hornady One Shot may have influenced that.
Ejection (which is something that has plagued Savage bolts) is excellent. It really chucks those cases.
MDT AICS style metal mags are good to go. They fit solid and feed well.
No complaints on the trigger. - I turned it down aways, and it is plenty light for a hunting rifle, and quite crisp.
Factory barrel, while a bit rough in the bore scope, at least initially, looks like it will shoot (more testing needed).

Some of you on this thread have had one for a while now. How have your impressions matured?
 
I posted these photos elsewhere on the Hide. So forgive me if this is repeat information for some of you.

Savage Impulse Big Game rifle.
6.5 Creedmoor Hornady 147 ELDM / Avg MV 2700 FPS
Vortex Viper PST 5-25X
Burris Signature rings
Boyd's Agility rifle stock
Boyd's Agility vertical adjustment butt plate with 1" rubber butt pad
Smith Enterprises flash hider
Turner Biothane sling
I forgot where I got the after-market bold handle knob.

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How is that bedded? Is it pillar bedded or what?
There is a pillar bedding for the rear action screw only. The wood at the front action screw is too thin to accommodate any pillar bedding.

I did have to add a piece of metal shim stock between the bottom metal and the wood at the front action screw. Otherwise, the magazine catch would not go over the lip of the magazine to hold it in place.

I needed to remove some wood in the magazine well with a file to permit easy insertion and the dropping of the magazine.

I've installed several Boyd's stocks and minor fitting is to be expected.

I wish I could get the cheek piece up higher but that's probably me. Some other guys that have looked at it, don't have a problem with the cheek piece.

The rifle is very muzzle heavy with the OEM stock. This stock, although heavier, balances the rifle comfortably. If someone wanted to keep the OEM stock and needed to keep it balanced they would have to add weight to the rear of the stock.

I tried putting a suppressor on it but with the low rings it gets in the field of view of the scope. Extra high rings did help with keeping the suppressor out of the field of view. However, I could not get a good cheek weld like a typical chassis equipped rifle with an adjustable cheek piece.

Oh well, I've hunted without suppressed rifles before, I can do it again. Besides having a can with nothing to mount it on gives me an excuse to buy another rifle.

PS: The torque on the rear action screw is 55 in-lbs. The front action screw is torqued at 35 in-lbs.
 
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There is a pillar bedding for the rear action screw only. The wood at the front action screw is too thin to accommodate any pillar bedding.

I did have to add a piece of metal shim stock between the bottom metal and the wood at the front action screw. Otherwise, the magazine catch would not go over the lip of the magazine to hold it in place.

I needed to remove some wood in the magazine well with a file to permit easy insertion and the dropping of the magazine.

I've installed several Boyd's stocks and minor fitting is to be expected.

I wish I could get the cheek piece up higher but that's probably me. Some other guys that have looked at it, don't have a problem with the cheek piece.

The rifle is very muzzle heavy with the OEM stock. This stock, although heavier, balances the rifle comfortably. If someone wanted to keep the OEM stock and needed to keep it balanced they would have to add weight to the rear of the stock.

I tried putting a suppressor on it but with the low rings it gets in the field of view of the scope. Extra high rings did help with keeping the suppressor out of the field of view. However, I could not get a good cheek weld like a typical chassis equipped rifle with an adjustable cheek piece.

Oh well, I've hunted without suppressed rifles before, I can do it again. Besides having a can with nothing to mount it on gives me an excuse to buy another rifle.

PS: The torque on the rear action screw is 55 in-lbs. The front action screw is torqued at 35 in-lbs.
Why the different torques on the action screws?
 
Why the different torques on the action screws?
I use the higher torque setting for metal-to-metal contact. The rear action screw is the only one that is pillar bedded. So the bottom metal is pressing against the pillar, which in turn, is pressing against the receiver.

The front action screw doesn't have any pillar bedding because it's a metal-to-wood-to-metal contact. In other words the wood is sandwiched between the bottom metal and the metal of the receiver.

Torqued too high and the wood ends up getting compressed.

For a wood only stock the normal torque setting would be about 25 in-lbs on the low side. Because the wood is laminated, I can use the higher torque setting of 35 in-lbs.
 
I use the higher torque setting for metal-to-metal contact. The rear action screw is the only one that is pillar bedded. So the bottom metal is pressing against the pillar, which in turn, is pressing against the receiver.

The front action screw doesn't have any pillar bedding because it's a metal-to-wood-to-metal contact. In other words the wood is sandwiched between the bottom metal and the metal of the receiver.

Torqued too high and the wood ends up getting compressed.

For a wood only stock the normal torque setting would be about 25 in-lbs on the low side. Because the wood is laminated, I can use the higher torque setting of 35 in-lbs.
Thank you for the explanation, I had my impulse apart installing an arca rail, and torqued both back to 55. My front action screw likes to loosen so I may need to add a drop of loctite.
 
Thank you for the explanation, I had my impulse apart installing an arca rail, and torqued both back to 55. My front action screw likes to loosen so I may need to add a drop of loctite.
What variant of the Impulse do you have?