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Sig Kilo 10k ABS

Just got the replacements in. Left diopter adjustment issue is resolved, so for those having issues where you can't get both eyes focused, it looks like it's just a defect. This pair I was able to get "just right", even though one of my eyes is worse than the other, and uncorrected. This is definitely a much better experience in that regard.

Is anybody else seeing a little grayish crescent at the edges of the lenses when out in sunlight coming in at angles? I think it's just how glare is making itself visible with the tint on the lenses.

Compass is visible after update, and I can confirm the crosshair with the half grid has the defect mentioned above.
 
Just got the replacements in. Left diopter adjustment issue is resolved, so for those having issues where you can't get both eyes focused, it looks like it's just a defect. This pair I was able to get "just right", even though one of my eyes is worse than the other, and uncorrected. This is definitely a much better experience in that regard.

Is anybody else seeing a little grayish crescent at the edges of the lenses when out in sunlight coming in at angles? I think it's just how glare is making itself visible with the tint on the lenses.

Compass is visible after update, and I can confirm the crosshair with the half grid has the defect mentioned above.
Did they send you a new set or repair the ones you sent in?
 
Update on the “defect” at the left edge of the crosshairs. The Sig CS rep said the techs he presented this to didn’t have an answer. They wanted me to send mine back so they could investigate. My response:

“Did the techs actually pick out a few pairs and look through them?
I just got these. No offense, but I’m not sending them back over this. They function properly as far as I can tell. There’s a multitude of people with the exact screen images as I sent you. I’d suggest the techs actually pick up a pair or three and use those to diagnose the issue instead of mine. Apparently everyone on a thread online all see the same images.
I’ll take back whatever answer the techs give you to the masses online. There’s a lot of people patiently awaiting the response from you guys. I didn’t name you specifically btw. I appreciate your help with this.”

Update 6/9/22:
Response from the rep:
“the pixels on the left outer hash mark on the ½ grid and the other on the full grid is from a bug in the firmware. We are currently working on an update that will fix that, but it is not out at this time. We appreciate your patience.”
 
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Update on the “defect” at the left edge of the crosshairs. The Sig CS rep said the techs he presented this to didn’t have an answer. They wanted me to send mine back so they could investigate. My response:

“Did the techs actually pick out a few pairs and look through them?
I just got these. No offense, but I’m not sending them back over this. They function properly as far as I can tell. There’s a multitude of people with the exact screen images as I sent you. I’d suggest the techs actually pick up a pair or three and use those to diagnose the issue instead of mine. Apparently everyone on a thread online all see the same images.
I’ll take back whatever answer the techs give you to the masses online. There’s a lot of people patiently awaiting the response from you guys. I didn’t name you specifically btw. I appreciate your help with this.”

I would have probably approached that a little differently; you’re basically threatening them with public shaming, and it’s such a minor software defect. I’ll send some images to the CS rep I’ve dealt with and see if he can confirm/get more info, now that I have these back in my hands (brand new pair from Sig).
 
I would have probably approached that a little differently; you’re basically threatening them with public shaming, and it’s such a minor software defect. I’ll send some images to the CS rep I’ve dealt with and see if he can confirm/get more info, now that I have these back in my hands (brand new pair from Sig).
Why? Sig had a lackadaisical response to me regarding the issue. They should get called out, publicly.
 
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I would have probably approached that a little differently; you’re basically threatening them with public shaming, and it’s such a minor software defect. I’ll send some images to the CS rep I’ve dealt with and see if he can confirm/get more info, now that I have these back in my hands (brand new pair from Sig).
I guess I didn’t interpret that as a threat to publicly shame them. I even specifically said I wasn’t mentioning the rep by name.
I certainly don’t apologize for my response regarding the lame answer from the “tech” guy(s). It sounds like they haven’t even looked through a pair as everyone here documents the same reticle issue.
Also, if you’re selling an MSRP $2400 optic then act like it.
Sometimes folks need a little prodding 😎

Update from the rep 6/9/22:
“the pixels on the left outer hash mark on the ½ grid and the other on the full grid is from a bug in the firmware. We are currently working on an update that will fix that, but it is not out at this time. We appreciate your patience.”
 
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I guess I didn’t interpret that as a threat to publicly shame them. I even specifically said I wasn’t mentioning the rep by name.
I certainly don’t apologize for my response regarding the lame answer from the “tech” guy(s). It sounds like they haven’t even looked through a pair as everyone here documents the same reticle issue.
Also, if you’re selling an MSRP $2400i optic then act like it.
Sometimes folks need a little prodding 😎
I read it a little different but you know your intent. :) I do 100% agree with your sentiment though; someone is just being lazy. Two reticle settings and it’s obvious. Should be an easy fix for them.
 
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As a side note. I sent these back and am being told replacements are on back order until July. This is horse shit of the highest order.
Dang. Yeah, when they asked me to send mine back for the pixels in the reticle this was my first thought. Hopefully you’ll get them sooner than that.
 
I’ll sell you a brand new set for $2500 and you don’t have to wait for a replacement. Pixels still there and everything lol
 
Mine took about two weeks to come back for the diopter problem. Hope yours do the same.
 
Mine took about two weeks to come back for the diopter problem. Hope yours do the same.
Called in this morning to see if there was any new info and was told there is no information on when they will receive any additional units. Not even an estimate now.
 
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Does anyone with a Kilo 10K also have experience with the Vortex Fury HD 5000 AB?

I'm debating both options. The Sig seems a little better spec wise.

Thanks
 
Does anyone with a Kilo 10K also have experience with the Vortex Fury HD 5000 AB?

I'm debating both options. The Sig seems a little better spec wise.

Thanks
I had the fury’s and have the 10k. The glass was better in the fury’s, but the laser and features are much better in the 10k. Yes technically the fury’s have much of the same ability and a little better button layout. Like independent wind buttons, but the aiming reticle is much larger, you have to wait to flip screens for it to tell you your dope, and profile wise it only tells you A,B, or C not the actual gun.
 
Does anyone with a Kilo 10K also have experience with the Vortex Fury HD 5000 AB?

I'm debating both options. The Sig seems a little better spec wise.

Thanks
I sold my Furys. The glass was better, definitely warmer, but I could not stand the poor software, the slow interface, and the shoddy bluetooth pairing. Sig nailed the electrooptics portion of the these and if you're not a glass purist there is absolutely no competition, but if you're a glass purist I can understand how you might be willing to put up with a objectively worse ranging/doping/pairing experience for slightly better glass.

I gotta believe there's a gen 2 fury in the works.
 
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Did some more playing with the kilos tonight side by side with my Nikon 10x42HG’s and my father in laws old pair of Zeiss 10x40s from Germany. It was a clear afternoon and night. I started glassing about 30 minutes before sunset and glassed 20 minutes after sunset. I didn’t use a tripod just laid the binos over my tool box for support.

Ignoring the tint, the resolution easily beat the old zeiss, and was neck and neck with the HG’s. The tint wasn’t causing any issues with being able to see. We have a cattle ranch about 800 yards away and goes out to around 2k. Cows were obviously easy to pick out with all 3 binos. Didn’t find any deer out and about tonight.

The ranging capabilities are amazing! There is a mountain on the far side of the cattle ranch covered in pine trees. I ranged the top of it at 6131 yards. I did some more playing to see if the 10ks could differentiate wood fence posts by scanning back and forth across them. I had no problems at low 500s. I could not get the range finder to pick up the fence post from the background at around 800 yards.
 

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Did some more playing with the kilos tonight side by side with my Nikon 10x42HG’s and my father in laws old pair of Zeiss 10x40s from Germany. It was a clear afternoon and night. I started glassing about 30 minutes before sunset and glassed 20 minutes after sunset. I didn’t use a tripod just laid the binos over my tool box for support.

Ignoring the tint, the resolution easily beat the old zeiss, and was neck and neck with the HG’s. The tint wasn’t causing any issues with being able to see. We have a cattle ranch about 800 yards away and goes out to around 2k. Cows were obviously easy to pick out with all 3 binos. Didn’t find any deer out and about tonight.

The ranging capabilities are amazing! There is a mountain on the far side of the cattle ranch covered in pine trees. I ranged the top of it at 6131 yards. I did some more playing to see if the 10ks could differentiate wood fence posts by scanning back and forth across them. I had no problems at low 500s. I could not get the range finder to pick up the fence post from the background at around 800 yards.

Did you try some of the other ranging modes?
 
I was ranging in the low to mid 2ks with the near/best mode which is what I have been running most of the time. I switched to the extended mode for the long ranges.

I have tried the far setting as well and I really like how the near/far modes work. Your able to scan around and when you stop it will Display whatever the farthest or nearest range was during your scan. I have yet to have a situation I could use the far mode, haven’t used it in the fog/rain/snow or in the woods. I do have trees around my house with small opening that have given my Leica fits. I will try and play with that setting later today and see how it does side by side with the Leica.

The near mode is excellent for ranging skylined steel or being able to pick up the target instead of the berm or hill behind it.
 
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I had the fury’s and have the 10k. The glass was better in the fury’s, but the laser and features are much better in the 10k. Yes technically the fury’s have much of the same ability and a little better button layout. Like independent wind buttons, but the aiming reticle is much larger, you have to wait to flip screens for it to tell you your dope, and profile wise it only tells you A,B, or C not the actual gun.
James reported these same things you’ve mentioned in his video review of the 10K. At some point in the video when he compares the 10K to the Fury he’s clear the 10K outperformed the Fury’s in inclement weather.
There is a quick button combo (both buttons pressed simultaneously iirc) to change wind speed and direction on the 10K, so that helps.
 
I was ranging in the low to mid 2ks with the near/best mode which is what I have been running most of the time. I switched to the extended mode for the long ranges.

I have tried the far setting as well and I really like how the near/far modes work. Your able to scan around and when you stop it will Display whatever the farthest or nearest range was during your scan. I have yet to have a situation I could use the far mode, haven’t used it in the fog/rain/snow or in the woods. I do have trees around my house with small opening that have given my Leica fits. I will try and play with that setting later today and see how it does side by side with the Leica.

The near mode is excellent for ranging skylined steel or being able to pick up the target instead of the berm or hill behind it.
Are you saying the Near mode stops working well @800+ yds for steel in front of berms? Or was that just the fencepost test?
 
That is the the distance I had available for a fence post last night. There was a fence run low to mid 500’s and the next run was 800 something. Kilos could pick up the fence post at 500’s but not the 800’s.

I have used the near setting in the mid 1ks if I remember correctly to hit the cows without issues. I don’t remember exact yardage last night that I was hitting trees with near mode before I swapped to the extended mode but it was in the 2ks
 
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So with the price of the Kilo 10K you’re getting “close” to Leica Geovid Pro 32 territory. And now that the Leica has improved their software and you can run the AB Elite on them without having to rely on Bluetooth....Is it worth it to save up and get these over the 10K
I really don’t want to rely with the Bluetooth connection with the kestrel when I’m out in the woods.
 
So with the price of the Kilo 10K you’re getting “close” to Leica Geovid Pro 32 territory. And now that the Leica has improved their software and you can run the AB Elite on them without having to rely on Bluetooth....Is it worth it to save up and get these over the 10K
I really don’t want to rely with the Bluetooth connection with the kestrel when I’m out in the woods.
Kilo10k is $1735 at Eurooptic right now, Leica are $2899. I'm not sure how "close" that is. Also, the Sig has a _much_ better display, and better ranging. Leica obviously has better glass re: tint. It's up to you to determine the value proposition difference between the two, to you. I think I'm going to stick with the k10ks; I hated the Leica 2800.com display, which for whatever unfortunate reason, Leica went with again on the Geovids. If the Leicas were priced $2899 and had the display and rangefinding capability of the Sigs, I'd say it would be worth the extra $1000+, but they don't. If the glass was "bad" on the Kilos, I'd also say it was worth it, but the glass isn't that bad at all. It just has a tint to it, but I don't find it impacts visibility in any scenario I've tested them in.
 
Kilo10k is $1735 at Eurooptic right now, Leica are $2899. I'm not sure how "close" that is. Also, the Sig has a _much_ better display, and better ranging. Leica obviously has better glass re: tint. It's up to you to determine the value proposition difference between the two, to you. I think I'm going to stick with the k10ks; I hated the Leica 2800.com display, which for whatever unfortunate reason, Leica went with again on the Geovids. If the Leicas were priced $2899 and had the display and rangefinding capability of the Sigs, I'd say it would be worth the extra $1000+, but they don't. If the glass was "bad" on the Kilos, I'd also say it was worth it, but the glass isn't that bad at all. It just has a tint to it, but I don't find it impacts visibility in any scenario I've tested them in.
Thanks !
In Canada I believe the Kilo is like 2650$ and the Leica 3400$ So a little bit closer than the American prices.
 
I have had mine for three weeks now. I shot at RPR near Burnet, TX today in dusty high winds and temps at 99. I was able to see trace most of the time even when a few feet left or right and while standing over prone shooters - and optical clarity allowed me to see hits on plates and misses on all stages. I was able to correct everyone onto the plate using the reticle dots. I shot three different bullets and the AB ballistics /LRF were on all day. Glass is right on par with my Leupold spotter. We’ll see how the rest of the summer goes as I shoot around the West.
 
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I think he’s talking about how the reticle isn’t designed to be level throughout the bino’s entire folding motion. If it’s anything like my Vortex Fury, for example, if your eyes are very far apart and the bino’s hinge opened to its max, the reticle might be canted one way. Same if the binos are fully collapsed, only the ret is now canted the other way.

It’s not like a canted ret in a riflescope. He wanted to open the binos to his ideal position and then manually adjust the cant to make the ret level.

I’m pretty sure this is not gonna happen with these cheaper consumer products.
@ormandj

I guess there was an issue with the display cant because I got back a new in box 10k.

@Covertnoob5

For the record it took about 9 business days to get this back, including the days it took to get there.
 
Kilo10k is $1735 at Eurooptic right now

Legit question: Where do you see it for $1735?

It's listed as $2169.99 in the only listing that I can find
 
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The switching between screens and considerable added time to see all the data is a deal breaker for me, be it Fury or Leica. And 10K range better than Fury and possibly Leica also but haven’t seen that posted as much.
 
Went out yesterday to our long range spot for the first time since getting the kilos. 12x20 torso easily ranged at 839 yards. 8” circle 717. The 717 has a berm a few yards behind it and I always struggled to get a good reading on that target with my Leica 1600b. We also have a rock that’s about 20” diameter laying on a hill at 1223. The kilos hit it every time with ease.

My friend brought his 12x50 razor uhd binos out and they were better optically but the kilos had no problem spotting impacts/misses and trace.

On a positive with the blue tint, it’s like wearing sun glasses on a bright sunny Colorado day, protecting my eyes from UV damage HAHA
 
Legit question: Where do you see it for $1735?

It's listed as $2169.99 in the only listing that I can find
Liberty optics has the 10K listed for $1,729.14. To see this price you MUST put the product in your cart. Don’t know if they are in stock but you can call Scott to find out.
 
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Legit question: Where do you see it for $1735?

It's listed as $2169.99 in the only listing that I can find
It was $1735 when I posted that. It's gone up; retailers adjust prices often nowadays, so don't hesitate when you see a deal. :)
 
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Is everyone happy with theirs, or are there still a lot of software issues?
 
Only negative is the blue tint; however, I think I’m getting use to it. For hunting I’d stay with Leica or Swaro.
 
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I've used mine in a couple matches and will use them this weekend in a NRL Hunter match. I've not seen any software issue to speak of. They perform very well. The only complaint is the blue tint but, honestly, it does cut down on glare. They're blue blockers. I have found the diopter to have a very small sweet spot.
 
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Mine have the squiggly reticle defect on the milling reticle but I don’t ever use it so doesn’t matter to me. I’m loving the convenience of these. The blue doesn’t bother me near as much as it did when I first got them. I’m very glad I didn’t cancel my order.

We went prairie dog blasting and these were the cats ass. Had them in The chest holster that came with them and the rifle on a tripod. Was so seamless and fast. Glass till you find a pdog, click the range button, dial what it says, then boom. Misses where my fault. Data was really good out to the 450 ish yards I hit dogs.

My friend was running his razor hd binos and older kilo range finder. He did good but had to keep going back and forth and manage the range finder and binos.

The glass quality hasn’t hindered me yet. I am able to see slightly more details with my friends razor hd and my Nikon hgs but nothing that makes spotting impacts or misses or finding critters.

I have also run these in a few prs matches now and really helps find targets when there are tons of targets out there. East to narrow it down with the range and also to verify the range of targets. Last match we found a few targets that were off by 40-50 yards and the group before us sounded like all missed them.
 
Can anyone advise as to the Milling subtensions on the grid reticle? More specifically MRAD subtensions.
 
Can anyone confirm if the Sig Kilo 10k have all the AB functions that you would find in a Kestrel elite such as multiple gun profiles, ability to range multiple targets, custom drag models, etc ? Or would I still need to use a Kestrel to take full advantage of AB software? Thx
 
It has all the features of the Kestrel. It won't create a target card from multiple targets. It will give you dope for each target you range.
 
Well, all of everyone's bitching :ROFLMAO: has caused the price to go up to $1900 wholesale and $2500 MAP, LOL. But, hopefully, they've made some improvements based upon everyone's feedback.
 
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How are the Leica Pros compared to the k10ks at ranging out to ~3000?

Ok, thank you. How do these compare out to ~2500? (I would be interested to hear about 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500 on objects like trees and deer-sized as well).

This is actually a rather interesting, and more complex than you might think, comparison. The simple part is that I have never found a situation where the Leicas pull a range but the Sigs do not. The first part of the complexity is that the Sig has a lot of different ranging modes (first, last, best, fog, battery saver (actually haven't tried this), and XR). The second part is that the Sig's beam divergence, 1.2 mils x .06 mils is super tight one direction but actually a bit looser than the Leica in the other. The Sig's beam is therefore not really any better than the Leica at picking up small targets relatively close. However, you can compensate for this by picking a different mode, like first, to favor the target, over the background berm or tree line. Furthermore, at least theoretically, the super tight verticle component of the Sig's beam allows you to get ranges quite well off of hill sides. In most situations you can therefore simply range the feet of the animal or where the post hanging a target meets the ground to range a small plate. Because of what effectively are a few more choices, the comparison becomes more complex depending on how long the user is willing to spend changing settings and strategies.

In practice, I haven't found a whole lot of difference in what the two will range out to about 1k. Out to that point, both will range either pretty much any target or the ground at the feet of pretty much any target. From the standpoint of hunting therefore, the ranging performance of the two really isn't much different. Both should range anything that is within an ethical range to shoot at. At around the 1k range though, the Leica's will start to encounter some things they have difficulty with. An example could be a target that is small and on a gently sloping pitch. The Leica could have trouble ranging both the target and the ground it's standing on in this instance. The Sig will range both the target itself further as well as the gentle hillside it's on further. A couple direct comparisons are that the Leica ranged a rotund human out to 1,228 yds whereas the Sig was still getting readings on the same person out to the point at which the path disappeared behind trees at 1440yds. It was doing this easily and would have gone further. Ranging tree lines, the Leica topped out at 1,850 yds whereas the Sig went 3,691. With hard targets the Leica basically won't go beyond 3k for anything wheras I have had the Sig to almost 10k. I think the best rules of thumb might be something like, with large soft targets like tree lines or hillsides, the Sig doubles the Leicas range. With large hard targets like buildings, the Sig triples the Leica's range. With small targets, the difference is less, perhaps 1.5x the range, depending on how well you tweak the modes on the Sig.
 
I've been playing a good deal with the Sig Kilo 10k-ABS HD rangefinder and I thought now might be a decent time to throw in a little teaser as I am most of the way done with the testing. This has been pretty interesting living in central Ohio as it is basically flat and tree covered for a hundred miles or so in any direction. This Sig can range so far you have to get pretty creative to test it around here. The manual, and advertising material, lists the 10k as having the ability to range: reflective targets at 10,000yds, Trees at 4,000yds, and deer at 3,000 yds. They are getting this with a 905nm class 1M laser essentially though the combination of an unusually flat beam pattern of 1.5 x .06 mrad and a special, longer duration, XR ranging mode. Although there is really no way for me to test a claim of 3k yds on a deer, I have been examining the other claims as well as the interesting effects of the unusual beam shape. I came quite close to the 10k number tonight ranging the iconic Budweiser factory tower from a parking garage across town. Yea, across town is what your dealing with trying to test these things max range. For my amusement, I left a .22lr ballistic profile active while doing this. It's funny, for most of the 6k+ ranges I did, the binos just returned zeros for the ballistic solution. .22lr, of course, simply cannot go that far at any solution. However, for whatever reason when I got to this crazy distance of 9545 yds the binos returned a solution of 5101.4 mils drop and inf mils wind. For those keeping track, 5101 mils is almost the whole way around a circle (6,283 mils) so, you would actually be pointing a bit down, not up. Incidentally, ranging the same thing again yielded 3744.0 mils for the same distance so clearly we are just getting programming static at this point. I was both amused at this return and at the fact the Kilo 10k's actually ranged this far though. I have also been able to test the tree line range claim, rather thoroughly in that case. On an overcast day, the Sig 10k's will do a tree line out to 3,700yds but not further. At night, they exceeded 5k yds on what appeared to be tree lines so far as I could tell.


2022 8 10 sig 10k budweiser.jpg

Budweiser factory tower @ 9,545 yds through the Sig Kilo10k-ABS Laser Rangefinding Binoculars
 
This is actually a rather interesting, and more complex than you might think, comparison. The simple part is that I have never found a situation where the Leicas pull a range but the Sigs do not. The first part of the complexity is that the Sig has a lot of different ranging modes (first, last, best, fog, battery saver (actually haven't tried this), and XR). The second part is that the Sig's beam divergence, 1.2 mils x .06 mils is super tight one direction but actually a bit looser than the Leica in the other. The Sig's beam is therefore not really any better than the Leica at picking up small targets relatively close. However, you can compensate for this by picking a different mode, like first, to favor the target, over the background berm or tree line. Furthermore, at least theoretically, the super tight verticle component of the Sig's beam allows you to get ranges quite well off of hill sides. In most situations you can therefore simply range the feet of the animal or where the post hanging a target meets the ground to range a small plate. Because of what effectively are a few more choices, the comparison becomes more complex depending on how long the user is willing to spend changing settings and strategies.

In practice, I haven't found a whole lot of difference in what the two will range out to about 1k. Out to that point, both will range either pretty much any target or the ground at the feet of pretty much any target. From the standpoint of hunting therefore, the ranging performance of the two really isn't much different. Both should range anything that is within an ethical range to shoot at. At around the 1k range though, the Leica's will start to encounter some things they have difficulty with. An example could be a target that is small and on a gently sloping pitch. The Leica could have trouble ranging both the target and the ground it's standing on in this instance. The Sig will range both the target itself further as well as the gentle hillside it's on further. A couple direct comparisons are that the Leica ranged a rotund human out to 1,228 yds whereas the Sig was still getting readings on the same person out to the point at which the path disappeared behind trees at 1440yds. It was doing this easily and would have gone further. Ranging tree lines, the Leica topped out at 1,850 yds whereas the Sig went 3,691. With hard targets the Leica basically won't go beyond 3k for anything wheras I have had the Sig to almost 10k. I think the best rules of thumb might be something like, with large soft targets like tree lines or hillsides, the Sig doubles the Leicas range. With large hard targets like buildings, the Sig triples the Leica's range. With small targets, the difference is less, perhaps 1.5x the range, depending on how well you tweak the modes on the Sig.
That didn’t seem more complex than I thought. It sounds like much beyond 1000 the K10ks are significantly better. That mirrors my experience with the 2800.coms vs. the 10ks, but I was curious about the Geovids. Too bad they didn’t improve the ranging performance at longer distances, but it also makes sense for their typical target demographic. Thank you for confirming.