Night Vision Super Yoter C - Any Experience Yet?

[chase723]

No worries. I’m not saying you’re doing it wrong. I believe that you’ve spent some time on it. Just for clarification on what I’m saying since it seems like part of it has been left out with what you are showing in your vid’s (which are damn good btw).

What I am saying is that you zero your day scope. Then shoot a thermal target (like you I use HVAC tape) with the SYC off. Then you put the SYC on and shoot at your thermal target again. Chances are your POI will not be your POA. To unify your zero, you then go into the menu and move the pixels of the SYC screen using the “Zero menu option”, so that the POI on your target is now in the center of your crosshair (dot since you’re using the G3 razor). This should unify the zero of your day optic and thermal optic so that your day optic and thermal optic have the same POA/POI. Confirm by shooting another thermal target with SYC on and SYC off. Then you go and calibrate the zoom.

If you’ve already done.

 

[Ksracer]

No worries. I’m not saying you’re doing it wrong. I believe that you’ve spent some time on it. Just for clarification on what I’m saying since it seems like part of it has been left out with what you are showing in your vid’s (which are damn good btw).

What I am saying is that you zero your day scope. Then shoot a thermal target (like you I use HVAC tape) with the SYC off. Then you put the SYC on and shoot at your thermal target again. Chances are your POI will not be your POA. To unify your zero, you then go into the menu and move the pixels of the SYC screen using the “Zero menu option”, so that the POI on your target is now in the center of your crosshair (dot since you’re using the G3 razor). This should unify the zero of your day optic and thermal optic so that your day optic and thermal optic have the same POA/POI. Confirm by shooting another thermal target with SYC on and SYC off. Then you go and calibrate the zoom.

View attachment 7815713

If you’ve already done.

I think we're on the same page.
Before I shot this, I mounted up a new NX8 and zero'd it on a different target without the Yoter on. The bullets landed dead center POA.

Then I installed the Yoter and hung a clean sheet of paper with the foil target you see here. My first two shots landed 1.8" left. I went into the Zero menu "1" and made a 2 pixel correction in the X+ direction. My next shot landed close enough to center for this demonstration. Then I went into the zoom calibration, aligned the white reticle with mine and shot another round at 2x and 1 more at 4x.

It's my actual image moving under my reticle as I zoom that's causing the issue though. The bullets on paper merely reflect the different POA's on each zoom level. Here's a pic of my scope sled so you get an idea of how I made the vids. It's basically just a tripod that weighs 60#.

 

[chase723]

Well, damn. Bering going to replace it?

 

[Ksracer]

Well, damn. Bering going to replace it?

Ya, I think they will if I ask them to. Honestly, I don't see how it can be anything other than a glitch in the programming somehow. I've talked to a few other owners and their's don't do this.
It doesn't bother me that much though, so I'm going to wait until summer to send it in.

 

[DutyRanger]

Ok, I was the guy that didn't care about internal photo or wifi capability. Now I've been using my yoter c in spotter mode for a couple weeks and am blown away with the picture and want to send some photos of it to friends/family.

So a couple questions: 1) my yoter c has a wifi setting. I seem to remember reading about an app that works with Bering thermals but isn't a Bering app. It might have been an AGM app. Will this work with my yoter c? And what's the app name?
2) If the wifi/app won't work, what's a small, economical dvr that's good to use with my yoter c? And is there a right angle cord that's recommended for the yoter? I'm concerned about the durability of the straight plug on the factory cord. Apex 3d has a magnetic charging connection for the Bering thermals, is there something like that that'll support charging and video out?

 

[tjdrago]

Ok, I was the guy that didn't care about internal photo or wifi capability. Now I've been using my yoter c in spotter mode for a couple weeks and am blown away with the picture and want to send some photos of it to friends/family.

So a couple questions: 1) my yoter c has a wifi setting. I seem to remember reading about an app that works with Bering thermals but isn't a Bering app. It might have been an AGM app. Will this work with my yoter c? And what's the app name?
2) If the wifi/app won't work, what's a small, economical dvr that's good to use with my yoter c? And is there a right angle cord that's recommended for the yoter? I'm concerned about the durability of the straight plug on the factory cord. Apex 3d has a magnetic charging connection for the Bering thermals, is there something like that that'll support charging and video out?

Mine doesn't seem to have a wifi setting, but it has a bluetooth setting. However, in the documents the only thing it says under the bluetooth icon is: "Future Upgrade Option".

 

[Ksracer]

Ok, I was the guy that didn't care about internal photo or wifi capability. Now I've been using my yoter c in spotter mode for a couple weeks and am blown away with the picture and want to send some photos of it to friends/family.

So a couple questions: 1) my yoter c has a wifi setting. I seem to remember reading about an app that works with Bering thermals but isn't a Bering app. It might have been an AGM app. Will this work with my yoter c? And what's the app name?
2) If the wifi/app won't work, what's a small, economical dvr that's good to use with my yoter c? And is there a right angle cord that's recommended for the yoter? I'm concerned about the durability of the straight plug on the factory cord. Apex 3d has a magnetic charging connection for the Bering thermals, is there something like that that'll support charging and video out?

Mine has a Bluetooth option in the menu and I can turn it on and it will show up in my phone. But when I try to connect, I get a wrong password message.
Bering originally told me the password was 12345678 and then when that didn't work, they said the "wifi", their words, not mine, wasn't enabled.

 

[GreenMushroom]

Tried something a little different with my yoter. I'd wanted one of the uses to be in front of an led ta31 on a carbine for a light weight option. Unfortunately my eye had trouble keeping the reticle crisp with the yoter so I looked into the buris and vortex micro prism but neither seemed great. PA finally put their 3x micro up for pre order a couple weeks ago so I ordered one and it showed up today.

Form factor is very nice and I'm able to mount the yoter to the receiver. Weight and balance are similar to your average lpvo/mount setup. Think I'm gonna move the big lights to another rifle and go with just a tlr-virii at 12 o'clock to keep it as handy as possible.

Daytime in the yard.

Tonight. Figure around 75yds on base magnification. It does well at 2x digital as well.

 

[WhereNow&How]

What is the range on the deer?

My guess is no more than 100 yards away based on the size of the horse shoe reticle size in relationship to the deer.

 

[GreenMushroom]

Could be that far. I guessed 75 but I usually scan with my lpvo on 2.5 and that's a 3x so I'm probably off. It's an area near my house but they came from a direction I haven't ranged.

Eta they're elk so a lot bigger than a deer. Think more horse sized.

 

[TheHebrewHammer]

Now this is a factory clip on mount that I can get excited for.

 

[chase723]

When are you going to post some details about that thing?

Now this is a factory clip on mount that I can get excited for.View attachment 7827598

 

[TheHebrewHammer]

When I have one to test for long enough to post first hand info, I don't like posting info put out by manufacturers without being verified by myself first.

 

[LetsGoB]

Maybe a really dumb question, but I've Cerakoted other NV and Optics with no problem: Has anyone ever used *Air Dry* Cerakote-C on a Thermal? Taping off all the important stuff, of course.

 

[LetsGoB]

No worries. I’m not saying you’re doing it wrong. I believe that you’ve spent some time on it. Just for clarification on what I’m saying since it seems like part of it has been left out with what you are showing in your vid’s (which are damn good btw).

What I am saying is that you zero your day scope. Then shoot a thermal target (like you I use HVAC tape) with the SYC off. Then you put the SYC on and shoot at your thermal target again. Chances are your POI will not be your POA. To unify your zero, you then go into the menu and move the pixels of the SYC screen using the “Zero menu option”, so that the POI on your target is now in the center of your crosshair (dot since you’re using the G3 razor). This should unify the zero of your day optic and thermal optic so that your day optic and thermal optic have the same POA/POI. Confirm by shooting another thermal target with SYC on and SYC off. Then you go and calibrate the zoom.

View attachment 7815713

If you’ve already done.

Chase, what is "SYC" ?

 

[Ksracer]

Chase, what is "SYC" ?

Super Yoter-Clip on

 

[Drago6]

So is the "Super Yoter" the clip on to have these days? I went down the rabbit hole per se on thermals close to 2 years ago but havent updated since then

 

[Ksracer]

So is the "Super Yoter" the clip on to have these days? I went down the rabbit hole per se on thermals close to 2 years ago but havent updated since then

It's pretty good unless you want to spend 2-4x the money.

 

[TheHebrewHammer]

Until the Steiner C35 comes out and sinks or swims, the Yoter C is the best option for under $12k. I know, I have one and love it.

 

[jMarine]

I have one I use with an acog on an ar15 and a B10 on a short bolt gun. I love mine. I had a Trijicon snipe IR and hated it. The Yoter is night and day better than that POS and has way more features.

How do you like running this with your ACOG? Does it work great/good/gets the job done?

 

[LetsGoB]

FYI - Just got in the ADM Mount for the Rico (same bolt pattern as the Yoter-C). It appears to be a 'true' co-witness at the 1.4x" height. The Bering Mount seemed to be a 'Lower 1/3' height, and Bobro said there's was too, in an email. It appears to be dead center of my ADM Recon 1.47" Mount. It probably doesn't matter, real world, since the screen can be adjusted - but my A.D.D. was killing me

It also allows for more positioning space on the rail - I've got some space between the Obj lens and the Yoter now, I'm hoping that gives a smidge more screen view at my base 4x (haven't even looked through it yet though).

 

[chase723]

The ADM mount is the way to go for sure.

 

[ST42]

Has anyone mounted one in front of a 1-4 Elcan? If you have, which mount are you using?

Thanks

 

[GreenMushroom]

After going back and fourth I settled on a rifle to put the micro prism set up on. Used the lower spacer that pushes it back further and with some modification was able to get the yoter closer to the optic. Moves the balance rearward and is much more esthetically pleasing. Gives nice options for light or heavy configurations.

I've also gotten a chance to use it more with the eyepiece as a scanner. Fov is kinda narrow for a primary but it has excellent detail and seems to burn through poor conditions better than my devices with smaller lenses. Nice to have in a pocket for when I want to have a closer look at something.

With these being the 1st to market of the new generation of clip-ons there will probably be a steady stream of used units as people upgrade to the latest and greatest. Excellent devices for someone wanting to dip their toes in the water.

 

[WhereNow&How]

Fov is kinda narrow for a primary but it has excellent detail and seems to burn through poor conditions better than my devices with smaller lenses.

Bigger Germanium lens always does better than smaller in poor conditions.

 

[GreenMushroom]

Bigger Germanium lens always does better than smaller in poor conditions.

I'd noticed the difference used in front of a scope but only recently did an apples to apples comparison as hand helds with my phenom on a foggy/rainy night. The Phenom is no slouch but the yoter has the extra bit of oomph to power through the really thick stuff.

 

[Ksracer]

Well, damn. Bering going to replace it?

Scratch that. This was Bering's response last month.

Their pro-staff guy picked up a new scope last week and confirmed that the zoom function on it behaves the same way mine does.

Now I just got my ass ate out on the phone for being persistent by the salesman. He said I've harrased the tech guy, the owner, the salesmen, and the pro-staff guy. Then he called me a shill for Pulsar, said he didn't know what my endgame was or what I expected and told me to go buy a Trijicon or some other scope.

WTF am I missing here?

 

[chase723]

That’s ridiculous. I’m honestly surprised none of them would help you. Mine doesn’t have that issue, nor does @jstokes1. I literally shot back to back sub 1” groups at 100 yards, shooting single shots at 1x, 2x, and 4x and then repeating.

 

[WhereNow&How]

WTF am I missing here?

Well, at least he didn't call you a Bitch or Karen for whatever consolation that is worth.

 

[WhereNow&How]

Well, Flir can be Bitch's but at least they know how to make a unit zoom without affecting the boresight.

 

[WhereNow&How]

Ok, I was the guy that didn't care about internal photo or wifi capability. Now I've been using my yoter c in spotter mode for a couple weeks and am blown away with the picture and want to send some photos of it to friends/family.

Maybe try one of these. They are cheap and work really well using your phone to take through the lens photos and video.

 

[Ksracer]

Well, Flir can be Bitch's but at least they know how to make a unit zoom without affecting the boresight.

View attachment 7844932

Even IRay seems to know how... Go figure.

 

[LetsGoB]

I always thought the Bering stuff was just tweaked iRay anyway?

 

[LetsGoB]

#2 in Chase723's graphic up there ^, appears to indicate that you do the white crosshair alighnment at 1x, 2x, and 4x. ("...at each digital zoom setting.) Is that correct?

 

[kirsch]

I always thought the Bering stuff was just tweaked iRay anyway?

I can't speak to this in regards to the Yoter C, but yes Bering uses the iRay sensors, and in many situations shares the same body molds for instance the iRay Siam series.

They get components from all over the world and then do final assembly in the US. So, you could call it a tweaked iRay but things like screens, internal components, mounts, firmware, and other things can be different,

 

[LetsGoB]

After going back and fourth I settled on a rifle to put the micro prism set up on. Used the lower spacer that pushes it back further and with some modification was able to get the yoter closer to the optic. Moves the balance rearward and is much more esthetically pleasing. Gives nice options for light or heavy configurations.

View attachment 7842650

View attachment 7842649

View attachment 7842651

I've also gotten a chance to use it more with the eyepiece as a scanner. Fov is kinda narrow for a primary but it has excellent detail and seems to burn through poor conditions better than my devices with smaller lenses. Nice to have in a pocket for when I want to have a closer look at something.

View attachment 7842653

With these being the 1st to market of the new generation of clip-ons there will probably be a steady stream of used units as people upgrade to the latest and greatest. Excellent devices for someone wanting to dip their toes in the water.

GM, what ADM base mates up with the PA Spacers?

Thx

 

[GreenMushroom]

It's from a nox but I'm pretty sure it's a low mount for a mini acog. I'll have to egg out the middle hole a little to get the 3rd screw in.

 

[Ksracer]

#2 in Chase723's graphic up there ^, appears to indicate that you do the white crosshair alighnment at 1x, 2x, and 4x. ("...at each digital zoom setting.) Is that correct?

I tried this on my scope. When you move the white cross hair on 1x, it simultaneously moves it on 2x and 4x also.

But it's a moot point if Boris sticks with his "digital zoom isn't for shooting" explanation.

Edit:
I should add that's how MY scope works anyway. Several other people have scopes that work differently from mine, including two of the Pro-Staffers who tested prototypes.

 

[Ksracer]

For anybody interested, the new scope the Pro-Staffer (it wasn't @kirsch ) re-tested puts the 2x and 4x shots in nearly the same place as mine does. The original prototype he demo'd worked like @chase723 's scope and put the 1x, 2x, and 4x shots into the same 1" group. I think it's BS that Bering won't address this, but I'm not sure it's worth the aggravation to push it any farther.

 

[Conqueror]

Now I just got my ass ate out on the phone for being persistent by the salesman.

For the record, there's a difference between getting your ass chewed out, and getting your ass ate out.

The TigIR has this same shift when you go to 0.8x, 2x, 4x, or 6x digital zoom. HOWEVER, they also figured out a way for you to independently zero each digital zoom level and save those in the individual rifle profile. It can actually be really handy for range shooting. So you can zero at 100yds on 1x, and then zero at 200yds on 2x, 300yds on 4x, etc. Or you can choose to have them all the same POI/POA. The only downside is having to manually calibrate every zoom level you want to use. The upside is you can turn off individual zoom levels to block them (ie, "I'll never use 6x digital zoom" so you can just turn it off at the menu level).

 

[Ksracer]

For the record, there's a difference between getting your ass chewed out, and getting your ass ate out.

 

[Ksracer]

The TigIR has this same shift when you go to 0.8x, 2x, 4x, or 6x digital zoom. HOWEVER, they also figured out a way for you to independently zero each digital zoom level and save those in the individual rifle profile. It can actually be really handy for range shooting. So you can zero at 100yds on 1x, and then zero at 200yds on 2x, 300yds on 4x, etc. Or you can choose to have them all the same POI/POA. The only downside is having to manually calibrate every zoom level you want to use. The upside is you can turn off individual zoom levels to block them (ie, "I'll never use 6x digital zoom" so you can just turn it off at the menu level).

I could do the same with mine, except it would be several long and short button pushes to enter the menu to change the gun profile setting each time, in addition to keeping track of what zoom level you're That would be a giant pain in hunting situations.

I believe the pixel at the center of the white cursor on the other Yoter-Cs is the central zoom point. It's the one pixel on the screen that doesn't move when you zoom, and all of the other pixels grow outward from it. When you position that center pixel under your day scopes reticle, it effectively becomes your zero point. Since it doesn't move when you zoom, neither should the zero.

 

[Conqueror]

Agree, using up your other gun profiles to get different zeroes is not the same and sounds like a PITA. The Tig has a single dedicated button that swaps your zoom level instantly.

 

[db2000]

Sorry if this has been covered but I picked up a yoter C. I don’t see much about transferring pics or video from it to a laptop in the manual. Looks like Bluetooth is for a later firmware update. I have the supplied USB-C connected to the scope and USB to the laptop but nothing is recognized for showing. I have video out turned on in the menu. Any advice? Thanks

 

[kirsch]

Sorry if this has been covered but I picked up a yoter C. I don’t see much about transferring pics or video from it to a laptop in the manual. Looks like Bluetooth is for a later firmware update. I have the supplied USB-C connected to the scope and USB to the laptop but nothing is recognized for showing. I have video out turned on in the menu. Any advice? Thanks

The Super Yoter C does not support internal recording/photos or WiFi. When you connect a USB C cable to a Bering thermal that does not have internal video recording (such as a Hogster 25, 35 and Yoter C), it uses the connection for power. Bering includes a USB C cable with an RCA end. The RCA portion of the cable is for video out. Turning on Video out (in the thermal menu) does exactly that as a video begins being transmitted to the RCA connection (if connected). A person would then need an external DVR or external screen (if wanting to view the scope) to connect to the Video out signal and capture video with it. Even if this is done, keep in mind since the thermal is in front of your day scope, the image recorded will not include the reticle or be impacted by the glass scope at all including zoom on the recorded video.

For the Bering scopes that do have internal recording, you do it as you described. You simply connect it to a Windows PC with a data/power USB C cable, and it would pop up as a drive. This allows you to save your recorded videos/images to the computer. This is the way it works with the Vibe - R, Yoter - R, and the Super Hogster. You can also access files by using WiFi and use one of the compatible Apps, or an FTP client. For the models that have internal recording, if it doesn't show as a drive when connected, it is possible you are using a power only USB cable and not a data/power.

 

[db2000]

The Super Yoter C does not support internal recording/photos or WiFi. When you connect a USB C cable to a Bering thermal that does not have internal video recording (such as a Hogster 25, 35 and Yoter C), it uses the connection for power. Bering includes a USB C cable with an RCA end. The RCA portion of the cable is for video out. Turning on Video out (in the thermal menu) does exactly that as a video begins being transmitted to the RCA connection (if connected). A person would then need an external DVR or external screen (if wanting to view the scope) to connect to the Video out signal and capture video with it. Even if this is done, keep in mind since the thermal is in front of your day scope, the image recorded will not include the reticle or be impacted by the glass scope at all including zoom on the recorded video.

For the Bering scopes that do have internal recording, you do it as you described. You simply connect it to a Windows PC with a data/power USB C cable, and it would pop up as a drive. This allows you to save your recorded videos/images to the computer. This is the way it works with the Vibe - R, Yoter - R, and the Super Hogster. You can also access files by using WiFi and use one of the compatible Apps, or an FTP client. For the models that have internal recording, if it doesn't show as a drive when connected, it is possible you are using a power only USB cable and not a data/power.

Thanks. Very helpful. I guess I’ll keep hoping for Bluetooth firmware one day

 

[kirsch]

Thanks. Very helpful. I guess I’ll keep hoping for Bluetooth firmware one day

If Bluetooth is added down the road, it would most likely add the ability to control features of the scope with a remote control. Bluetooth is rarely used for video purposes. Not trying to be the bearer of bad news just trying to set expectations.

 

[GreenMushroom]

add the ability to control features of the scope with a remote control.

 

[WhereNow&How]

View attachment 7856898

Yeah but, you are only maxed out when a 24 inch pipe wrench can't turn the skin.

 

[db2000]

Thanks for the help regarding video output thus far.
Can anyone share what recording device they use with the Y-C?
Something similar to these two I suppose.
Thanks

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