Suppressors Suppressor blew up

[Docsherm]

I have a preban bushmaster that has close to 20000 rounds through it. In that time I replaced the gas key because it carboned up from not being cleaned. And the bolt broke a couple months ago. Carbine has + a old suppressor + non AGB prolly contributed to that. Nothing wrong with bushmaster

I have an old DPMS lower that has over 47k on it. Doesn't mean that i would buy a new one today if I was looking for one. I too had a preban Bushmaster. I so had a preban Olympic Arms AR... i sold both after the AWB was over and got better ones. Did I need to, not really. But I did. The Oly Arms one was a total POS.


I see what you are saying. My point is that popular is not the same as Good.

 

[Underaverage]

This is crazy. I've never seen this happen on a can before. My family finally made the jump to invest in cans and we ultimately decided to go with YHM because of the QD muzzle system they have in addition to the attractive price point. Granted this is a Titanium can, but wow. Definitely keep us updated on what YHM does about this. Being someone who picked them as their go-to for suppressors, I definitely want to hear how it turns out.

 

[SilencerShop]

He did call but they are closed right now.

FYI, they are back open now.

 

[Huskydriver]

This is crazy. I've never seen this happen on a can before. My family finally made the jump to invest in cans and we ultimately decided to go with YHM because of the QD muzzle system they have in addition to the attractive price point. Granted this is a Titanium can, but wow. Definitely keep us updated on what YHM does about this. Being someone who picked them as their go-to for suppressors, I definitely want to hear how it turns out.

Dude Re freaking lax homie.... Every single mfg of suppressors has had a lemon... Do you have any idea how many cans yhm has made in the last 10 years? Guarantee you yhm will take care of it

 

[Long Range 338]

This is crazy. I've never seen this happen on a can before. My family finally made the jump to invest in cans and we ultimately decided to go with YHM because of the QD muzzle system they have in addition to the attractive price point. Granted this is a Titanium can, but wow. Definitely keep us updated on what YHM does about this. Being someone who picked them as their go-to for suppressors, I definitely want to hear how it turns out.

Wait a minute here... You "invest in cans" based on QD system and low price. Now you are upset that the lowest cost may not equal best quality or best warranty? Are your expectations in line with your budget?

 

[Mooseknuckles]

FYI, they are back open now.

Thank you for the heads up, I will let my buddy know.

 

[cardboardkiller]

This thread is what happens when too many people are sitting at home bored because of the ‘Rona.

Kind of hard to believe that anyone here thinks that there’s one manufacturer that hasn’t put out a bad can or even several dozen.

 

[Underaverage]

Wait a minute here... You "invest in cans" based on QD system and low price. Now you are upset that the lowest cost may not equal best quality or best warranty? Are your expectations in line with your budget?

Yes... Cans are expensive no matter how you slice it. Did a lot of research and was happy with the reputation that YHM boasts so that's what myself and my family decided to go with. We wanted a system where we could interchange amongst ourselves as we pleased if we ever found ourselves in a situation that warranted doing so.

I've never personally seen a suppressor explode. I mean I understand the physics behind how and why it is possible. I just haven't ever seen it (not even on the internet, this is my first time). So excuse me if I was taken aback a bit. I'm sure that YHM will take care of the guy because they have the reputation for doing so.

 

[EnXCess]

So, are you a “real engineer?” Because you sound like you are reaching and guessing.

I, on the other hand, am using the reality of statistical analysis known by any manufacturer.

No, you're just "reaching and guessing" like the rest of us.

But let's look at the facts. This can has been shot quite a bit and is 5 years old, but has never been cleaned. It lives most of the time on a short-barreled 300 blackout, which means it got loaded with more carbon than many other cans, because powder charges do not burn as thoroughly in a short barrel.

A Phantom 308 weighs about 15 oz and is not short of wall-thickness. Unlike on a Cruz, the engraving on a YHM is very shallow. It seems to me that it is far more likely that one or more chunks of carbon obstructed a baffle or end-cap hole, and that is what caused the failure, rather than flawed metal suddenly giving out after 5 years.

But, the folks lauding sealed cans don't want to admit that carbon built up for years can break away in chunks and cause an obstruction that causes a can to blow up, even while some of them post photos of muzzles caked in carbon a half-inch thick from high-volume shooting. Go figure.

 

[lash]

No, you're just "reaching and guessing" like the rest of us.

But let's look at the facts. This can has been shot quite a bit and is 5 years old, but has never been cleaned. It lives most of the time on a short-barreled 300 blackout, which means it got loaded with more carbon than many other cans, because powder charges do not burn as thoroughly in a short barrel.

A Phantom 308 weighs about 15 oz and is not short of wall-thickness. Unlike on a Cruz, the engraving on a YHM is very shallow. It seems to me that it is far more likely that one or more chunks of carbon obstructed a baffle or end-cap hole, and that is what caused the failure, rather than flawed metal suddenly giving out after 5 years.

But, the folks lauding sealed cans don't want to admit that carbon built up for years can break away in chunks and cause an obstruction that causes a can to blow up, even while some of them post photos of muzzles caked in carbon a half-inch thick from high-volume shooting. Go figure.

It’s okay. I can see that you don’t understand how metal fatigue works.

Since your only real point is that sealed cans are somehow inferior, I can see that there is no reasoning with you. Carry on with your fine self. I’m done.

 

[Docsherm]

This thread is what happens when too many people are sitting at home bored because of the ‘Rona.

Kind of hard to believe that anyone here thinks that there’s one manufacturer that hasn’t put out a bad can or even several dozen.

That is true. But YHM has been know for this for at least the last 20 years. Not even close to the 10th time that I have heard of this happening to their cans. They sre an entry level can. That is it. Nothing wrong with that. Just know what you sre getting into.

That is like people buying a PSA or BCM rifle and getting all pissed because it is not reliable and only shoots 3 MOA at best. When you get entry level stuff understand that is not as good as lother stuff.

Notice that the majority of the consensus here is that TBAC cans are the go to ones because of the performance, durability, and less POI shift. They are also 3 times as much as a YHM can. There is a reason for that.

 

[Kadams1563]

That is true. But YHM has been know for this for at least the last 20 years. Not even close to the 10th time that I have heard of this happening to their cans. They sre an entry level can. That is it. Nothing wrong with that. Just know what you sre getting into.

That is like people buying a PSA or BCM rifle and getting all pissed because it is not reliable and only shoots 3 MOA at best. When you get entry level stuff understand that is not as good as lother stuff.

Notice that the majority of the consensus here is that TBAC cans are the go to ones because of the performance, durability, and less POI shift. They are also 3 times as much as a YHM can. There is a reason for that.

How the hell you put PSA and BCM in the same category?!?

 

[cardboardkiller]

That is true. But YHM has been know for this for at least the last 20 years. Not even close to the 10th time that I have heard of this happening to their cans. They sre an entry level can. That is it. Nothing wrong with that. Just know what you sre getting into.

That is like people buying a PSA or BCM rifle and getting all pissed because it is not reliable and only shoots 3 MOA at best. When you get entry level stuff understand that is not as good as lother stuff.

Notice that the majority of the consensus here is that TBAC cans are the go to ones because of the performance, durability, and less POI shift. They are also 3 times as much as a YHM can. There is a reason for that.

And TBAC has still had issues with their cans up to necessitating a recall. TBAC hasn’t been around as long as YHM and damn sure hasn’t put out as many cans. So where does that leave them?

I have an Ultra 9 6.5 sitting at my dealer right now that I’m picking up when I get back to the US. A Dominus will be can 15 or 16 for me depending on the release date.

 

[Docsherm]

How the hell you put PSA and BCM in the same category?!?

Because that are tbe same category. One just has better PUblic Relations.

 

[Zak Smith]

If you have a bullet go so far off-track that it strikes in the inside of the tube, you will see very notable impact mark and in my experience it will hardly ever crack in the dent. Likewise a piece of carbon being "blasted off to the side" isn't going to do that. Carbon isn't going to "seal" a baffle or end-cap hole and make the tube explode. Cracks like the one in the photo develop when you have a weak point in the tube due to a machining feature AND/OR an inherent material defect, AND "typically in our experience", when pressure is being applied directly to the other side of the tube. (I don't know off the top of my head what the Ti Phantom baffle stack looks like.)

 

[EnXCess]

Since your only real point is that sealed cans are somehow inferior, I can see that there is no reasoning with you. Carry on with your fine self. I’m done.

Seals cans are inferior, because of the difficulty of cleaning them.

But then the sealed can devotees have the nerve to claim that their cans are more accurate than user-serviceable cans, which is complete BS. No one has yet matched the target I put up earlier (4 consecutive 5-shot groups at 100 yards averaging .283") shot with my Banish 223 can.

I got a good lesson recently in the importance of user-serviceability with that can when I stupidly followed the advice of some people at this site (including you!) to put anti-seize on my threads and barrel shoulder. It got pulled into my can. atomized and was coating my crown and getting baked on. And I mean BAKED on. It was like it was BRAZED to the crown. Hoppes 9, Brake-clean, etc., did not touch it, and it kept fouling my crown every time I'd shoot, destroying my accuracy, long after I had quit using the anti-seize and cleaned it off my threads. Fortunately I could take that can apart to clean the anti-seize impregnated carbon deposits out of it, quickly and easily.

 

[EnXCess]

Carbon isn't going to "seal" a baffle or end-cap hole and make the tube explode.

We have people talking about chunks of carbon from their suppressor going down their barrel and jamming their action, and people talking about having chunks of carbon too big to fit through their muzzle-hole, but you don't think it is possible for that carbon to block a baffle or end-cap hole? I will grant you it is unlikely, mainly because gravity will make the carbon chunks lie in the bottom of the baffles, but it is silly to say it can never happen, as if no one ever takes a low-angle shot.

The w.t. of a can is a small fraction of that of even a sporter barrel, and such barrels are split all the time due to getting a little snow pushed into the muzzle. I can easily see carbon chunks obstructing a can enough to cause a rupture which never would have happened without the obstruction.

 

[lash]

Seals cans are inferior, because of the difficulty of cleaning them.

But then the sealed can devotees have the nerve to claim that their cans are more accurate than user-serviceable cans, which is complete BS. No one has yet matched the target I put up earlier (4 consecutive 5-shot groups at 100 yards averaging .283") shot with my Banish 223 can.

I got a good lesson recently in the importance of user-serviceability with that can when I stupidly followed the advice of some people at this site (including you!) to put anti-seize on my threads and barrel shoulder. It got pulled into my can. atomized and was coating my crown and getting baked on. And I mean BAKED on. It was like it was BRAZED to the crown. Hoppes 9, Brake-clean, etc., did not touch it, and it kept fouling my crown every time I'd shoot, destroying my accuracy, long after I had quit using the anti-seize and cleaned it off my threads. Fortunately I could take that can apart to clean the anti-seize impregnated carbon deposits out of it, quickly and easily.

Yes, I use anti-seize on the threads of my direct thread can. A tiny little bit of it. It sounds to me like: A) You used way too much, B) You used the wrong kind. I’m sorry that you stupidly did that.

 

[c ward]

Seals cans are inferior, because of the difficulty of cleaning them.

But then the sealed can devotees have the nerve to claim that their cans are more accurate than user-serviceable cans, which is complete BS. No one has yet matched the target I put up earlier (4 consecutive 5-shot groups at 100 yards averaging .283") shot with my Banish 223 can.

I got a good lesson recently in the importance of user-serviceability with that can when I stupidly followed the advice of some people at this site (including you!) to put anti-seize on my threads and barrel shoulder. It got pulled into my can. atomized and was coating my crown and getting baked on. And I mean BAKED on. It was like it was BRAZED to the crown. Hoppes 9, Brake-clean, etc., did not touch it, and it kept fouling my crown every time I'd shoot, destroying my accuracy, long after I had quit using the anti-seize and cleaned it off my threads. Fortunately I could take that can apart to clean the anti-seize impregnated carbon deposits out of it, quickly and easily.

BS , YUP I'LL WAVE THE FLAG

There is absolutely no way the suppressor got hot enough to cause the materials in anti seize to flow , typically nickel , copper , or glass beads , let alone vaporize and coat the entire inside of the suppressor and crown . All the other chemicals in anti seize are just a carrier and are no different than any other lubricant used on firearms .

The temps at which the 3 elements above vaporize are all above 2500 deg F and would have to stay that way for long enough to destroy the barrel and can not just deposit a layer on everything .

 

[GMZ]

.

.

.

Give it a rest bro. Every suppressor thread lately you’ve come in talking shit about sealed cans. Talking shit about their users. Talking shit to/about TBAC. Demanding people prove shit to you, some random internet dickhead with zero credibility. Then you try and sell your Banish snake oil. Gtfo with that shit.

 

[HansohnBrothers]

Seals cans are inferior, because of the difficulty of cleaning them.

But then the sealed can devotees have the nerve to claim that their cans are more accurate than user-serviceable cans, which is complete BS. No one has yet matched the target I put up earlier (4 consecutive 5-shot groups at 100 yards averaging .283") shot with my Banish 223 can.

I got a good lesson recently in the importance of user-serviceability with that can when I stupidly followed the advice of some people at this site (including you!) to put anti-seize on my threads and barrel shoulder. It got pulled into my can. atomized and was coating my crown and getting baked on. And I mean BAKED on. It was like it was BRAZED to the crown. Hoppes 9, Brake-clean, etc., did not touch it, and it kept fouling my crown every time I'd shoot, destroying my accuracy, long after I had quit using the anti-seize and cleaned it off my threads. Fortunately I could take that can apart to clean the anti-seize impregnated carbon deposits out of it, quickly and easily.

Complete and utter nonsense. What exactly is your background with silencers?

 

[lash]

He owns one.

 

[Threadcutter308]

Yes, I use anti-seize on the threads of my direct thread can. I tiny little bit of it. It sounds to me like: A) You used way to much, B) You used the wrong kind. I’m sorry that you stupidly did that.

Well, I use NAPA Anti-Seize and I don't have any of those problems. Et tu Brutus ?

 

[Zak Smith]

We have people talking about chunks of carbon from their suppressor going down their barrel and jamming their action, and people talking about having chunks of carbon too big to fit through their muzzle-hole, but you don't think it is possible for that carbon to block a baffle or end-cap hole?

No, not to cause pressure to burst the tube:

The w.t. of a can is a small fraction of that of even a sporter barrel, and such barrels are split all the time due to getting a little snow pushed into the muzzle. I can easily see carbon chunks obstructing a can enough to cause a rupture which never would have happened without the obstruction.

 

[c ward]

I'll just leave this here about bore obstruction,



guess we'll see how this is explained away too .

If there was a bore obstruction in the OP can why is there no evidence of any impact in the picture of the inside of the suppressor ?

 

[lash]

View attachment 7316568


Well, I use NAPA Anti-Seize and I don't have any of those problems. Et tu Brutus ?

I’m not sure that the kind used matters as much as the amount. I suspect that this thread’s self-appointed expert used way too much. The base of all the anti-seize compounds is a high temp grease. But even that will melt and spread above 350* or so. Use a heavy hand and lay it on like mayonnaise and you can get a mess I’d guess.

I use a very small dab on my finger and lightly spread it on the top of threads a little. It doesn't take much

 

[JeffLebowski]

they have been making cans forever and yet they are not very popular. This isn’t 2005 anymore and people don’t buy YHM. Take that YHM and put it on a Larue so you can go retro.

So, so fucking wrong. Their new Turbo and Resonator cans are the shit and selling out everywhere.

 

[JeffLebowski]

This is crazy. I've never seen this happen on a can before. My family finally made the jump to invest in cans and we ultimately decided to go with YHM because of the QD muzzle system they have in addition to the attractive price point. Granted this is a Titanium can, but wow. Definitely keep us updated on what YHM does about this. Being someone who picked them as their go-to for suppressors, I definitely want to hear how it turns out.

Relax, YHM makes great stuff and their warranty is that if the can breaks to the point of no repair possible, they will give you a new can and pay for your new stamp.

 

[HansohnBrothers]

Their new Turbo and Resonator cans are the shit and selling out everywhere.

This is true, YHM is my sales leader by volume.

 

[EnXCess]

BS , YUP I'LL WAVE THE FLAG

There is absolutely no way the suppressor got hot enough to cause the materials in anti seize to flow , typically nickel , copper , or glass beads , let alone vaporize and coat the entire inside of the suppressor and crown . All the other chemicals in anti seize are just a carrier and are no different than any other lubricant used on firearms .

The temps at which the 3 elements above vaporize are all above 2500 deg F and would have to stay that way for long enough to destroy the barrel and can not just deposit a layer on everything .

Well, again, let's look at the facts:

1. I have shot the same V-Max bullets, the same XBR powder, the same Rem. 7.5 primers, and the same Hornady brass in my .204 for several months (a couple of thousand rounds), always with my Banish 223 suppressor with pure silicone coating the insides of the suppressor and my my threads, and never had any problem whatsoever with my crown. Then I changed ONE THING - I used Permatex Anti-Seize on my mount threads instead of the silicone, and I IMMEDIATELY experienced the problems I described with my crown.

2. Even after I cleaned my suppressor as I normally do, polished my crown down to bare metal and cleaned all of the Permatex off my threads (male and female) and my barrel shoulder with Brake-cleaner, I continued to have the problem with my crown -- it recurred every time I shot. Not as bad, but enough to require repeated polishing of the crown to get the stuff off of it.

Now, maybe my can gets hotter than yours, or maybe there is some bizarre chemical reaction between the Anti-Seize and the XBR 8208 powder, or the silicone, or who know what. All I know is, I never had the problem before using the Anti-seize and I couldn't get rid of the problem until I did a very thorough cleaning of my suppressor.

I don't care who says it is a good idea to use anti-seize on suppressor threads, anyone doing it is taking a big, and completely unnecessary risk. The silicone works just fine as a light grease, with no side-effects, and is cheap.

 

[Huskydriver]

Well, again, let's look at the facts:

1. I have shot the same V-Max bullets, the same XBR powder, the same Rem. 7.5 primers, and the same Hornady brass in my .204 for several months (a couple of thousand rounds), always with my Banish 223 suppressor with pure silicone coating the insides of the suppressor and my my threads, and never had any problem whatsoever with my crown. Then I changed ONE THING - I used Permatex Anti-Seize on my mount threads instead of the silicone, and I IMMEDIATELY experienced the problems I described with my crown.

2. Even after I cleaned my suppressor as I normally do, polished my crown down to bare metal and cleaned all of the Permatex off my threads (male and female) and my barrel shoulder with Brake-cleaner, I continued to have the problem with my crown -- it recurred every time I shot. Not as bad, but enough to require repeated polishing of the crown to get the stuff off of it.

Now, maybe my can gets hotter than yours, or maybe there is some bizarre chemical reaction between the Anti-Seize and the XBR 8208 powder, or the silicone, or who know what. All I know is, I never had the problem before using the Anti-seize and I couldn't get rid of the problem until I did a very thorough cleaning of my suppressor.

I don't care who says it is a good idea to use anti-seize on suppressor threads, anyone doing it is taking a big, and completely unnecessary risk. The silicone works just fine as a light grease, with no side-effects, and is cheap.

 

[c ward]

There is no physical way your suppressor got hot enough to vaporize the materials in antiseize because if they had it would have catastrophically damaged both the barrel and suppressor. 2500 deg F would have destroyed the barrel and suppressor .

 

[GBMaryland]

General the Yankee Hill suppressors are built like tanks… However given that was the titanium one it makes you have to wonder, after all they go for a weight with those.

my 338 stainless one is made so that you can shoot with it and then take it and go clubbing your enemy in the head with it when you run out of ammo.

And my several 30 Cal stainless versions of the same thing are pretty damn indestructible to...

 

[biffj]

We did a bunch of testing with a variety of anti-seize compounds many years back. The idea at the time was to see if we could come up with something to prevent crap from sticking to the baffles. So for some of these tests we coated the inside of the blast chamber and the rear faces of all the baffles with nickel high temp, copper or graphite anti-seize and blasted away. What we found was that it didn't make much difference in the rifle cal stuff as it all got blasted away after a few shots. No carbon build up was ever seen and we never melted any of the anti-seize. In the 22LR cal cans it actually seemed to help a bit unless you went too long between cleanings. About 500-1000rds seemed to be ok. Stuff scraped off better than without anything but it was still messy and anti-seize isn't cheap. In the 22LR cans there was no evidence of any more carbon buildup than without anti-seize. So the BS meter is usually pegged when I hear that running anti-seize on the barrel threads has gummed up a suppressor. It just doesn't make any sense to me after goobing the crap out of them and seeing no issues to have a micro tiny amount suddenly create chaos. In addition to that we've done a number of endurance tests with belt feds and high powered stuff to see how the cans react to high temps.....the answer is not so well if its too hot. Despite overheating things we still never saw any difference in buildup between running and not running anti-seize. We normally run the high temp nickel because the graphite is really intended for other purposes and copper is something we never used around aircraft when I was working on them so nickle is what's left.

One detail about anti-seize. The grease used is a carrier, not the material that does the work. It is used to keep the actual anti-seize in suspension so that it can be applied. The reason parts seize up is called galling. It is a process by which metal parts weld themselves together in spots and with threads this really screws things up.....or should I say that it locks it up. Usually dissimilar metals won't gall together so running stainless can on a chromemoly barrel will be ok and vice versa. There are some materials more prone to this than others as well. Titanium galls on everything. Its really bad. Some stainless can gall on a wide range of things too. What normally leads to this is the carbon crap scraping away the surface of the threads exposing nice clean metal that will weld to the metal on the opposite parts threads where it has been scraped clean. What the anti-sieze actually does is deposit microscopic flakes of some other metal or graphite on the surfaces and this will help prevent the welding. Even after the grease has been burned away the anti-seize still works fine because its the nickel, copper or graphite that is doing the work. Just a dab ul do ya.

I find carbon buildup on the muzzle face of my barrels after shooting for a while though the actual bore and exit are always clear. The carbon buildup is concentric and I've not seen any change in accuracy with the buildup. For the last 22 years or so I've been shooting suppressed and building suppressors so I have some real world experience.

Last thing I want to add is that the manufacturers aren't making their materials from scratch. They buy tubing and bar from a supplier. Each of these materials is made in a way that always has a possibility of flaws that can't readily be detected. Inclusions in the steel or titanium can be as bad or worse then engraving or nicks or scratches. If you have a flaw and engrave over the top of it you end up with a failure at some pressure lower than what the can should handle if it were flawless. These things happen and most manufacturers will take care of it unless you're a real trouble maker. Help them help you out and let them do their jobs. They need to know if there is something wrong as it will help down the road for everyone.


Frank

 

[JeffLebowski]

No, you're just "reaching and guessing" like the rest of us.

But let's look at the facts. This can has been shot quite a bit and is 5 years old, but has never been cleaned. It lives most of the time on a short-barreled 300 blackout, which means it got loaded with more carbon than many other cans, because powder charges do not burn as thoroughly in a short barrel.

A Phantom 308 weighs about 15 oz and is not short of wall-thickness. Unlike on a Cruz, the engraving on a YHM is very shallow. It seems to me that it is far more likely that one or more chunks of carbon obstructed a baffle or end-cap hole, and that is what caused the failure, rather than flawed metal suddenly giving out after 5 years.

But, the folks lauding sealed cans don't want to admit that carbon built up for years can break away in chunks and cause an obstruction that causes a can to blow up, even while some of them post photos of muzzles caked in carbon a half-inch thick from high-volume shooting. Go figure.

Literally the most unlikely, strange explanation in this thread.

 

[silentwoods]

I've been doing cans since

Well, again, let's look at the facts:

1. I have shot the same V-Max bullets, the same XBR powder, the same Rem. 7.5 primers, and the same Hornady brass in my .204 for several months (a couple of thousand rounds), always with my Banish 223 suppressor with pure silicone coating the insides of the suppressor and my my threads, and never had any problem whatsoever with my crown. Then I changed ONE THING - I used Permatex Anti-Seize on my mount threads instead of the silicone, and I IMMEDIATELY experienced the problems I described with my crown.

2. Even after I cleaned my suppressor as I normally do, polished my crown down to bare metal and cleaned all of the Permatex off my threads (male and female) and my barrel shoulder with Brake-cleaner, I continued to have the problem with my crown -- it recurred every time I shot. Not as bad, but enough to require repeated polishing of the crown to get the stuff off of it.

Now, maybe my can gets hotter than yours, or maybe there is some bizarre chemical reaction between the Anti-Seize and the XBR 8208 powder, or the silicone, or who know what. All I know is, I never had the problem before using the Anti-seize and I couldn't get rid of the problem until I did a very thorough cleaning of my suppressor.

I don't care who says it is a good idea to use anti-seize on suppressor threads, anyone doing it is taking a big, and completely unnecessary risk. The silicone works just fine as a light grease, with no side-effects, and is cheap.

I have currently fired over 30,000 rounds in my life with 2500deg. Nickel antiseize.
Each of those cans are thread mount, hence the silver stuff.
Never had anything like your issue.
Never had a baffle strike.
Hell, I haven't even cleaned those cans.
So, you have something else happening.
It's not antiseize.

 

[silentwoods]

[Forgot to mentionQUOTE="silentwoods, post: 8522581, member: 152462"]
I've been doing cans since

I have currently fired over 30,000 rounds in my life with 2500deg. Nickel antiseize.
Each of those cans are thread mount, hence the silver stuff.
Never had anything like your issue.
Never had a baffle strike.
Hell, I haven't even cleaned those cans.
So, you have something else happening.
It's not antiseize.
[/QUOTE]
Forgot to mention, easily half of those were on a 5.56 SBR.

 

[Long Range 338]

Well, again, let's look at the facts:

1. I have shot the same V-Max bullets, the same XBR powder, the same Rem. 7.5 primers, and the same Hornady brass in my .204 for several months (a couple of thousand rounds), always with my Banish 223 suppressor with pure silicone coating the insides of the suppressor and my my threads, and never had any problem whatsoever with my crown. Then I changed ONE THING - I used Permatex Anti-Seize on my mount threads instead of the silicone, and I IMMEDIATELY experienced the problems I described with my crown.

2. Even after I cleaned my suppressor as I normally do, polished my crown down to bare metal and cleaned all of the Permatex off my threads (male and female) and my barrel shoulder with Brake-cleaner, I continued to have the problem with my crown -- it recurred every time I shot. Not as bad, but enough to require repeated polishing of the crown to get the stuff off of it.

Now, maybe my can gets hotter than yours, or maybe there is some bizarre chemical reaction between the Anti-Seize and the XBR 8208 powder, or the silicone, or who know what. All I know is, I never had the problem before using the Anti-seize and I couldn't get rid of the problem until I did a very thorough cleaning of my suppressor.

I don't care who says it is a good idea to use anti-seize on suppressor threads, anyone doing it is taking a big, and completely unnecessary risk. The silicone works just fine as a light grease, with no side-effects, and is cheap.

Gotcha. Next time we need somebody to come in and show us super duper groups and brag about Banish suppressors and extol their virtues, I'll tag ya in homie!

We are all fanboys of something but try to be a little objective...

 

[EnXCess]

Gotcha. Next time we need somebody to come in and show us super duper groups and brag about Banish suppressors and extol their virtues, I'll tag ya in homie!

We are all fanboys of something but try to be a little objective...

I am more than a little objective as I own a sealed suppressor as well as the Banish. I have objectively compared them and found that the sealed cans offer no advantages to me, while the user-serviceable Banish offer significant advantages.

The ease of disassembly/reassembly alone makes them the best line of suppressors on the market. Being able to run my Banish 30 in either its 7" configuration or its 9" is just icing on the cake. If you just cannot afford the extra money for a Banish, then buy a YHM, etc. Any suppressor is better than none at all. They are all a lot of fun.

 

[jetmd]

I just want to say Thank You to Frank and Snipershide for providing me the Ignore button which is used during this thread.

It just makes life a little more pleasant not having to read the nonsense some choose to spew.

Carry on.

Chet

 

[EnXCess]

What the anti-sieze actually does is deposit microscopic flakes of some other metal or graphite on the surfaces and this will help prevent the welding. Even after the grease has been burned away the anti-seize still works fine because its the nickel, copper or graphite that is doing the work.

Here is one of the two identical tubes of AS I bought together, this one not opened. It is what I used on my rifle:



Maybe I used the wrong kind of Permatex Anti-Seize? I can only guess why some people have used some kind of Permatex Anti-Seize and had no problem while I immediately had a major problem. All I know is I had a rifle/scope/ammo setup that for months hardly ever busted .5 MOA, and usually averaged .3 or better. Here it is with its newly added Bartlein barrel on a p-dog town last November:



Then a couple of weeks ago I substituted the AS for the silicone grease I had been using (without any problems whatsoever, I just thot that since a bunch of guys on SH were raving about how great AS works, I'd try it). I did not think I was over-applying it, certainly no more than the silicone I usually use.

Within minutes of firing my first shot my accuracy went completely to hell. (Well, 1.5 - 2 MOA would be fine for some people, but you get the drift.) Started checking all the usual suspects (base and ring screws, and chamber). Nothing. Checked my crown and found this:



There was nothing that looked like the gray AS on my crown, but what was there looked exactly as you described - the grease had been burned away and a metallic substance was left behind, doing its intended job of preventing any galling of my crown. A rag and Hoppe's 9 did not faze it. I took it home and found that neither brake-cleaner or anything I had would remove it. It was as if it had been brazed onto My crown.

I wish I could have gotten a better photo of it, but I can tell you that it was not at all even. One look at it and, as someone who has turned several crappy-shooting rifles into tack-drivers simply by repairing the crown, in some cases eliminating gouges and dings so small they were nearly invisible to the naked eye, I immediately knew what the cause of my sudden inaccuracy was.

So I took some 0000 steel wool to the crown and that finally got the brassy metallic substance off. However, it also screwed up the crown so that the rifle was still inaccurate even with the crap gone. I am only a shade-tree gunsmith, so I'm not sure what I did wrong (probably should not have used steel wool at all), but I was able, with a re-crowning hand tool, to restore most of the accuracy (down to about .5 moa usually). Now that I know that is the problem I will have the barrel recrowned on a lathe and (hopefully) get it back where it was before I decided to try the AS.

And it had nothing to do with "how much" I used. Even after cleaning my baffles and tube (except for the inside of the non-removable end-cap, which is very hard to get to), that damned brassy crap would come back and start sticking (as in, brazed on) to my crown again. I finally had to put a steel primer-pocket brush in a pistol cleaning rod to get all the carbon out of my non-removable end-cap. That, with a long soak in carbon-remover, finally got the last vestiges of the AS out of my can.

So, I any rational person will see why I say you have to be an idiot to put AS on your muzzle threads or shoulder, if you have a very accurate rifle and would like to keep it that way.

My Banishes are titantium and they go on and off my rifles a lot. If I am not shooting 5 days a week then I am shooting 3. I have been more concerned about powder residue, which is highly abrasive, wearing down either my titanium female threads or my SS male threads or shoulder, but using pure silicone grease has seemed to always work great. If only I had left well enough alone.

I find carbon buildup on the muzzle face of my barrels after shooting for a while though the actual bore and exit are always clear. The carbon buildup is concentric and I've not seen any change in accuracy with the buildup. For the last 22 years or so I've been shooting suppressed and building suppressors so I have some real world experience.

I can shoot hundreds of rounds without taking my suppressor off and not have any accuracy degradation from buildup on my crown. (Not that I get that much.) Buildup in the can, however, is a different story.

 

[Arc Light]

Here's my theory. Silicone grease is the last kind of grease I would use for this application. First, it doesn't lubricate metal on metal very well. Better suited for metal to rubber/plastic contact. Second, it has a low melting point, less than 400 degrees F typically. Third, when it gets into the pores of metal, it is almost impossible to remove unless you abrade it off. So any subsequent grease you put on it (like anti-seize) is not going to stick. That could be why it reacted the way it did in your case.

 

[EnXCess]

Sure, it could be that the silicone reacted somehow with the AS in a way that people who never use silicone would never see. But that "getting into the pores" is probably the reason I like it so much -- it definitely makes my baffles easier to clean, and while it is not an ideal lubricant, it is not messy or objectionable on your hands or clothes, and does a good enough job of lubricating. It's not like we're talking about moving parts -- I just want to prevent galling, and the silicone does that just fine.

 

[biffj]

Silicone is about as good as butter for preventing galling. Your can and barrel are probably sufficiently different materials so that galling isn't a problem. The use of silicone has nothing to do with your success in non-galling cans. It does make a very good anti-stick surface coating though so if you're ever going to paint anything you've had silicone on or near you will probably be disappointed when your paint peels. If its coating all your baffles and preventing stuff from sticking there, so much better for you. Silicones have their place but it isn't for use as a metal to metal lube unless you're in space where nothing else will stay put.

Frank

 

[GBMaryland]

I just take my cans and put them in carb cleaner.... Then I drop them in a citrus bath... shake them a bit... and let them dry.

I apply some copper AS to the treads of the suppressors and screw em on the quick attach muzzle breaks.

The 22lrs supressors are direct attach or using an adapter. THOSE need to be actually cleaned for lead every so often. However, I've been shooting CCI Clean-22 (nylon coated) rounds to prevent that issue [when plinking].

 

[Long Range 338]

I am more than a little objective as I own a sealed suppressor as well as the Banish. I have objectively compared them and found that the sealed cans offer no advantages to me, while the user-serviceable Banish offer significant advantages.

The ease of disassembly/reassembly alone makes them the best line of suppressors on the market. Being able to run my Banish 30 in either its 7" configuration or its 9" is just icing on the cake. If you just cannot afford the extra money for a Banish, then buy a YHM, etc. Any suppressor is better than none at all. They are all a lot of fun.

In regards to the user serviceable cans... I'm not opposed to sealed or serviceable cans for centerfire purposes. If I were a manufacturer however I could definitely see the upside to sealed cans if for no other reason than keeping the uninitiated from blowing one up. As witnessed in other recent threads here on the Hide, serviceable cans do have an inherent flaw, and that flaw is the user. From a cleaning standpoint they are obviously easier to care for but one must be very careful when reassembling that all is correct to avoid problems. Proclaiming them to be superior to sealed can will probably be an uphill battle without substantiated data.

 

[EnXCess]

In regards to the user serviceable cans... I'm not opposed to sealed or serviceable cans for centerfire purposes. If I were a manufacturer however I could definitely see the upside to sealed cans if for no other reason than keeping the uninitiated from blowing one up. As witnessed in other recent threads here on the Hide, serviceable cans do have an inherent flaw, and that flaw is the user. From a cleaning standpoint they are obviously easier to care for but one must be very careful when reassembling that all is correct to avoid problems. Proclaiming them to be superior to sealed can will probably be an uphill battle without substantiated data.

The "Loser User" is certainly a legitimate concern, but it is not like Banish did not think of that -- that have a good, simple system, a video, etc. You'd have to work at assembling it wrong. I'd put it this way -- if a person is irresponsible or scatter-brained enough to put one together wrong, they certainly should not ever take up reloading, and just being entrusted with a firearm at all is questionable.

However, I will admit it gets a little dicier when you start cleaning a Banish 223 and a Banish 30 simultaneously, because the tubes (and therefore the baffle O.D's) are identical, with the 30-cal baffles being only slightly longer. But still it isn't anything paying attention will not solve.

I have never heard of a Banish blowing up. Of course, I don't hear about everything.

 

[Mooseknuckles]

We use silver anti seize on a suppressed m249, it’s had many thousands of rounds through it, never had a single issue with the anti seize.

I have been using this stuff for 15 plus years and never had issues with it. Shit I dint even use anti on my silencerco harvester 30, just a little bit of marine grade grease and have never had an accuracy issue or with the treads.
the suppressor that blew up was a quick detach and it hashad what I consider very low round count. Probably 1500 rounds. The fact is, it’s either a heat treat issue or a flaw on the machining or the stamp of the emblem. Still haven’t herd back from YHM but I’m sure they will take care of it.

 

[jetmd]

Mooseknuckles, I appreciate you updating this thread.

I for one look forward to hearing the resolution with this issue.

Best regards.

 

[BS Shooter]

So to those that have seen failures and the can has to be replaced does the manufacture cover the new tax stamp fee? Tax stamps.....