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Survey 24 inch, or 26 inch .260 Remington BBL

Wild Geese 1

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 21, 2010
113
0
77
Ohio
Just as it says, I am building a .260 Remington, and to those of you that really have them which do you feel is better, and your reasons. Most of my shooting will be done at 100 to 500 yards with occasional 1,000 yard shooting.
 
Majority of shooting inside 500, and only occasionally to 1000?

20" - 2700fps with 140s and 43.0gr H4350 is still PLENTY to 1000 yards.
 
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I have a 26" 260, but honestly if you're staying at 1k and under, you're not going to miss much by going with a 24"
 
I split the difference between the barrel debate and went 22". I'm getting 2650 with 140 smk and 45 gr H4831sc.
 
I went 24" and often think I should have gone 22" or even 20". Most of my shooting is at 600 yards.
 
I have two @ 24" and I think that is about perfect for what I use them for. I would not mind a shorter one but I dont think I would want a 26... I cant get 2830 in one and 2850 in the other with 140 a-max but run them about 50-60fps slower most of the time.
 
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26 inch. You can cut the extra off later if you're not happy.
Jim
 
currently have a 24"...new barrel sittin in the safe is gettin cut to 22"...almost went 18-20" but decided i can always cut it shorter later on if i want
 
If it were a competition rifle where you were trying to get every advantage possible I'd go 26". But for 500 and in especially if you want to hunt with it I'd go 22".
 
I like the 26" in my DTA SRS, but go 22-24" on non-bullpup design. Long barrel gives more velocity and less wind drift at great distances. 20" should get you to 1000 yards, if that's your final goal. I use Lapua Senar 136gr L, 139gr and SMK BTHP 140gr.
With H4350 at 43.3gr got 2969, 2710 and 2663 fps, respectively out of my 26" DTA barrel with no pressure signs and several reloadings of Lapua and Fed brass.
 
My current .260 is a factory 24" Savage Predator Hunter Max. I once had a 24" Factory .260 Savage 10FP and it was accurate at 1km with handloads, but it got converted to a 28" .260, and finally to a 22" .30BR.

All but the .30BR saw extensive usage in 1Kyd F Class Open. 24" will do fine, but I like the 28" far better for a bench/F Open rifle; it allows the .260 to exercise its full potential at the extended distances.

Greg
 
Thank everyone for you input, keep them coming, I especially like the loads, and velocity given with the barrel length.
 
Because of length or because you don't want to hang weight on a longer barrel? Thanks.

BTW, I couldn't decide between 24 or 26 on a creedmoor so I went 25" :)


because 26 + a can is FREAKING LONG.. :(

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alot depends on your barrel, but based off your needs 22-24 would work great. If you run a can, 20-24" would be ideal.
 
Here's my $.02...

I own two 260 bolt guns for two different purposes. They can be used interchangeably but they were both built in my opinion to be better in their respective roles. They both are exclusively shot suppressed.

The first one I had built for steel/paper shooting. It has a 26" Rem varmint contour barrel, a McMillan fully adjustable A5 stock and wears a NF 8-32x56. It is long and heavy, especially when wearing a 9" suppressor. I run 140 amax's in it at 2820fps. I may have been able to reach a tight node with a higher velocity but I didn't push it as it shoots .5moa at worst, so I stopped load development.

The second one I had built for hunting. It has a 20" Rem varmint contour barrel, a McMillan non adjustable HTG stock and wears a Leupold Mk4 4.5-14x50. It seems light as a feather compared to my first 260. I run 140 amax's in it at 2775fps, which also shoot at worst .5moa.

I have thought more than once about selling the longer, heavier first rig I had built because I feel that the shorter, lighter second one can do everything the first can...and I don't feel the same about the first one. The first may have a slow tube and the second may have a fast tube, who knows. They are both Brux 8.5 twist barrels.
 
Long and skinny if it's a comp gun, 26", you can always lop 2" off if it doesn't work for you.
My Surgeon has a 26" fluted #6, I've run it with an FTE and a Shark can, it's happy w both, w the Shark I'm reminded of its length on a rare few stages.
 
Is weight an issue? Is this something your going to carry? I'm shooting a 6.5CM out of 28" and my 308 is 24" but in the next week or so it becomes a 6XC with a 28" barrel. The longer barrel help in the FPS part, accuracy, and weight reduces the felt recoil. It also allows me the option to set back if needed. For my type of shooting the longer barrel works.
 
Currently running a 24" Shilen Select Match but if I do it all over again it'll be a 20" threaded for sure. Honestly where I live it's rare to find a 500 Yard range lay along 1,000. I'd rather have the handiness of the shorter barrel. Easy to carry and easy to store.
 
My interest in a 28" barrel is not about achieving high velocities, but about achieving conventional velocities with less bore pressure and temperature.

Yes, I get it that a suppressor is involved; that just doesn't fit my rifle goals.

Greg