Re: Tactical Knife info needed.
You mention a line of knives, I take it that you are looking at several models aimed at different purposes?
The below are my personal preferences for heavy use military style blades, hunting and fishing require other tools...
1 is a medium heavy 10-12" knife for heavy traditional knifework.
My #1 for years have been an Ontario spec+ 1st gen. bowie, (although the handle is a little bulky), it has a wedgeshaped edge that splits wood and other materials nicely, it is heavy enough for chopping and light enough for regular controlled cutting and shaping wood or other materials.
The blade must be hard enough not to bend even when used to pry things open, but the edge itself should be tough and soft enough to make it possible to work up a razor edge with a "bite" that cuts rope,branches,fabric and other materials easily.
A (to an extent) wider blade towards the tip balances it better, the narrower part near the handle makes it easier to perform controlled cutting with this part of the edge.
It should have a pointy blade to some extent, but the Bess-wedge is a very well thought out alternative.
2 is more of a combat knife, blade and edge can be harder but should still be soft enough to sharpen with a regular sharpening stone.
I like the Buck Nighthawk for its balance and handle material, but the edge is a bit too hard, setting it up takes forever, although once it is set up it retains the edge for quite a while and I have never been close to breaking or cracking the edge or point on this one, it has seen some serious abuse.
Serrations are ok for some materials and a pita for others, I prefer a smooth edge with a bite instead, but lots of knife makers make two versions with and without partially serrated blades.
For longer blade knives I do not see much use in serrated blades but I can definately see how a short blade, like a folder, benefits from them.
Some sort og hand stop on the handle is a must, doesnt have to be much but should be present at both ends of the handle so your hand stays naturally off the blade but on the handle (doesnt slip either way).
This is more important on #1, as #2 should fit so you can turn it in your hand easily without loosing grip due to protruding things, a defined recess for the thumb and a slight notch for the index finger maybe.
I like molded handles as modern rubber/soft synthetics dont crack, but it must hold friction in any temperature, lots of handles gets real hard and slippery in the cold.
The other alternative is paracord wrapping, provided the tang is well shaped underneath.
Wooden handles from an assembly line is a no-go to me as they could crack when you least expect it, for a handmade piece where the wood is selected and hand carved it is OK.
The sheath should be molle-compatible in some way, possibly removable molle-clips or something in addition to belt loop, several of the existing sheaths from different manufacturers are so wide they take up way too much space.
For regular belt-carry of a bowie-size knife I like the way the old Ontario sheath is laid out, with a belt loop on a D-ring allowing it to pivot at the intersection between the blade and handle.
I like to carry a combat knife upside down, retained partially by sheath friction and partially by a snug band with snap fastener around the top of the handle.
Nowadays velcro is used all across the board but in this application it is too noisy and unstable, a HQ snap fastener is the way to go.
With a stiff enough belt loop on the sheath you can actually wear it upside down like this at the side in a relatively stiff belt, reach it with either hand, and it drops handle-first into your hand when flipping the snap fastener open.
This require the belt loop opening to be either made to belt size (1-1/2" or 1-1/4") or adjustable.
(For personal "aftermarket" adjustment a pop-rivet is just fine as long as the loop is wider...)
If a folder is on your programme, I personally love the feel (if not so much the quality) of the Gerber EVO.
Allthough a cheap-ass knife knife the handle and blade design fit my hand perfectly, and it opens with a swift hand movement.
If you can make something similar with indestructible titanium side plates and a really thick/large diamter pivot bolt so that it can actually be used for sideways prying and twisting without the bolt or sides crapping out I would be grateful
John - out
