Good info.
I want the windows for natural light, and to just see outside. My walls should be mostly windows.
Maggie’s The Wood Shop
- Thread starter TxWelder35
- Start date
Good info.
I want the windows for natural light, and to just see outside. My walls should be mostly windows.
Wood shop is inside. Bought the property in 2016. Barn (I think circa 1942) needed siding. The old T&G was in good shape, other than about 10 coats of paint, and some cracks.
I just finished this north face using LP Smartside in 16"x16'. Took about 3-4 weeks of part-time work to cut in windows and install two exhaust fans. Six years ago I used cedar 1x6, 1x8's on the front. I used solid PVC on the trim and battens, holds paint and won't rot. I set up wood scaffolding to do the high parts, not a fan of ladders.
Dewalt 20V cordless FTW. Framing and 15/16g trim nailers.
Doing house this summer, it will match the barn when done.
I just finished this north face using LP Smartside in 16"x16'. Took about 3-4 weeks of part-time work to cut in windows and install two exhaust fans. Six years ago I used cedar 1x6, 1x8's on the front. I used solid PVC on the trim and battens, holds paint and won't rot. I set up wood scaffolding to do the high parts, not a fan of ladders.
Dewalt 20V cordless FTW. Framing and 15/16g trim nailers.
Doing house this summer, it will match the barn when done.
Just came across this, and it reminded me of yet another project that has been set aside for far too long. ODIG....
Need creative ideas on what to do with this.
Top of a big cedar blown off in good storm couple months ago.
Was about to cut it up to get it off my fence but thought it was too cool.
cant believe it did not take out power lines
Didn't notice this untill I set it down... hmm
Top of a big cedar blown off in good storm couple months ago.
Was about to cut it up to get it off my fence but thought it was too cool.
cant believe it did not take out power lines
Didn't notice this untill I set it down... hmm
Depends how much usable lumber you get out of it.
well there is that. There is a local guy that sells cedar slabs cheap but I was thinking more along the lines of something with the odd formations.
There are 3 or 4 saw mills within 5 miles of my place but the one I talked to doesn't do custom work.
It’s hard to tell the size from the picture, or if it’s worth milling.
10 - 12" at the big end I think
10-12 inches is the largest diameter?
went and ckd. 14" at the big end but about a 5' split in it so not much lumber.
So...the traditional gift for a 17th year anniversary is furniture. (Who makes this stuff up?). She Who Must Be Obeyed decreed that to satisfy this requirement, the slave must produce a "quilt cabinet" (yes, this is a thing) to specific measurements (this, also, is a thing). This is the result and apparently I'm good on gun buys for a few days...Solid mahogany case, maple plywood for the back and bottom, beveled glass panels, hand rubbed tung oil finish. The front comes off for access and attaches with magnets.
I will not show my niece this.
Within 30sec I'd be hearing. Uncle Le can you make me this.
That is really nice!
Why have the whole front come off instead of have it open on hinges? Is it heavy and awkward?
Thank you. We tried a prototype swinging door but it would have required a piano hinge or several large hinges that would be visible. The glass made the door pretty heavy.
I think it is very nice, and the real glass instead of plexiglass just lends a whole other layer of class to it. What size/strength magnets did you use?
Beautiful wood, very tight miters, and nice tight joints. Overall just a very nice piece.
Thank you (again). I used 1/2" neos every six inches on the sides and there are two more top and bottom. Probably could have just done every 8" but... it holds very tight and minus the finger cutouts, you can't see how it's done.
The mahogany is something else. First time using it. I wanted to figure match the face and top from a single piece of stock but besides the grain, there are pieces of quarter sawn that look like tigers eye (the stone) and some others that have amazing depth. I almost always use an oil finish for depth and this piece made good use of it. I'm anal on the woodworking but the stock really made the piece. I've enough left to make.a watch box this summer so I'm looking forward to that (provided miss thang doesn't place another order!).
The mahogany is something else. First time using it. I wanted to figure match the face and top from a single piece of stock but besides the grain, there are pieces of quarter sawn that look like tigers eye (the stone) and some others that have amazing depth. I almost always use an oil finish for depth and this piece made good use of it. I'm anal on the woodworking but the stock really made the piece. I've enough left to make.a watch box this summer so I'm looking forward to that (provided miss thang doesn't place another order!).
Man, Marines be showing their skills with handling their wood.
I definitely like the beveled glass. Nice touch.
I seem to recall seeing a quilt piece similar to this but with a curved glass top, kind of like a pirates chest. It was years ago but I believe it was Amish. Ever since I've wanted to make one if I could figure out the glass.
Damnit, now you got me thinking of a possible next project... but that's a good thing.
No doubt.
Absolutely gorgeous work, all of you. Thanks for the pics
While not technically "woodworking", my latest project is made out of wood and was work. I refinished two small parquete entry ways in my house two days after surgery for a hernia that blocked my small bowel. I thought my lifting limitation is 25 lbs., but during my follow-up visit earlier in the week my surgeon told me 10 lbs. Images start with old floor and end with finished product.
At some point between woodworking classes I think.
And look at the racks on those skulls! Holy smokes!
That's a great reply.
He makes a good piece of classy looking furniture, that's for sure
Yes, it ALL looks like fantastic work. Well done. And as an aside, I can definitely appreciate those crimpers.
Very well done.
Very well done.
I went to Indian Head in ‘85. By the way, if that’s a Strider in that case that’s just wrong. About like locking a race horse in a stall and not letting him run. That knife should be out in the wild beating the piss out of stuff! BTW, I was at Blade show last weekend, and Strider‘s stuff was sold out at 9am on Sat morning. Walked down that isle again a few hours later and some young pup was giving them a bunch of lip about it. The guy behind the counter pointed his finger in the kids face and shouted, “FUCK YOU!” I figured we were getting ready to see an edumacation, but the kid turned around and walked off. Maybe he was smarter than I gave him credit for.
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Doing some prep work before painting my bedroom. While taking down some Ducks Unlimited art work, I thought maybe some of you might like to see a couple of easy ways to make large frames. For example, the print of the geese coming into the decoys on the river is 34X41. Sorry about the keystone effect.
This frame is pretty easy to make inspite of the huge cove. To make the cove cut simply clamp an auxillary fence to a table saw at an angle. You can also make the cut on a radial arm saw, but the table saw if safer. Sand the cove out with a drum, etc.
If you have some old barn wood or old wood from a fence, it makes a great accent piece with oak. This frame is easy to make. Think in terms of baseboard and quarter round.
This frame is pretty easy to make inspite of the huge cove. To make the cove cut simply clamp an auxillary fence to a table saw at an angle. You can also make the cut on a radial arm saw, but the table saw if safer. Sand the cove out with a drum, etc.
If you have some old barn wood or old wood from a fence, it makes a great accent piece with oak. This frame is easy to make. Think in terms of baseboard and quarter round.
Thanks!
I have beautiful wood, but I have never gotten compliments on my tight miters!
@502Chevelle Yeah, Indian Head was a lot like Ground Hog Day....classes, study hall, Powder Keg.
It is a Strider MTL-SS and it got beat to shit during some summer vacations in Iraq (the blade is around 1/4" shorter than original). When I retired, I cut off the wrap and sent it to the Strider spa to get the metal bead blasted and then I re-wrapped the handle when I got it back from them.
I am thinking I should attach a small hammer on a chain to the box with a "Break glass in case of emergency" sticker. I'll wager it has broken up more fresh asphalt, slayed more rice bags and tore up more car interiors than most knives. A particular sheik in Ramadi is extremely pissed at it because it dismantled the interior on his 7 series BMW when it decided to break down near an outpost. He started going ballistic when he came back and saw the state of it. The terp said he was disparaging my lineage at a certain point, so I put a boot banger under the truck for good measure and launched the contents of his trunk towards Allah....
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This needs some info. Hand planed stock: check. Hand cut miters: check. Squared up and running grain: check. Great workmanship: check. Exotic mystery wood with magic finish: no clue. Inquiring minds need to know!
Primary wood is walnut that had some nice figure to it and jarrah for the accent trim.
Wood finish is Liberian oil applied with 220, 320, 400 and 600 grit aluminum oxide sand paper (12-24 hours between applications).
Wet sanding makes a slurry that fills the small pores and the wood needs to be wiped down before that slurry dries. You have to keep an eye out for oil weeping back out after the 600 grit and wipe it off before it cures or you’ll have to do touch ups. Finish with paste wax.
You can keep going higher in grit for a glossier appearance but it won’t feel any smoother.
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way cool
Stunning work! Thanks for the info.
How do you like the rikon?? Been looking at several mini to mid lathes. Rikon has been 1 of the brands. What sold you on it?? Just wondering, might help me narrow it down. Thx
I really like it. The castings seem a little more robust than the Jet on the banjo and tailstock. The bed rails were machined smoother than the Jet and the Powermatic and has an overall solid feel. They handles for adjusting the banjo and tailstock are easy to manipulate annd lock things down solidly. They also include all the open-end wrenches, allen wrenches, knock-out rod, both centers for using the lathe with a nice storage rack and compartment to store them.
The head can be rotated instead of removing the tailstock and having to slide it all the way down the bed for outboard turning which was another determing factor for going with the Rikon. Also, al the controls can be located anywhere on the lathe depending on what you are turning. It has nice power (1 3/4hp) even though it is only 110V. They utilize a transformer(?) in conjunction with the 220V/3 phase motor and it is very quiet and vibration free.
Anyone in here a CNC guru? Thinking about adding a smaller one to the shop to rough out grip profiles for revolver and 1911 grips.
I’m mathematically and computer retarded, so ease of use is a big factor.
Either that or I get custom cutters for the shaper, but I really like my fingers and don’t want to use small blanks on a shaper, lol.
For you CNC users, what do you recommend?
I’m mathematically and computer retarded, so ease of use is a big factor.
Either that or I get custom cutters for the shaper, but I really like my fingers and don’t want to use small blanks on a shaper, lol.
For you CNC users, what do you recommend?
