• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

These Bastards are eating Rebecca's Mona lavender

Mike Casselton

Team Beer and Donuts.
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Nov 25, 2007
    10,176
    18,296
    Lithia, FL
    Got the plant from @oneshot86 and it was beautiful. Now it's hurting.

    20200525_090957.jpg


    20200525_081210.jpg


    This image is showing the culprit on the tip of a rubber glove.

    They look like Army worms, but I don't think they are due to the center stripe.

    Tent worms aren't correct either.

    Anyone have an idea what they actually are and the best way to kill them off?
     
    Are you not wanting to go the insecticide route?

    Big box stores sell some that are organic, pet, kid, bee friendly if thats your preference.

    Or you might find a home recipe.

    I have a yellow flowered shrub that used to get infested with a similar worm every year. The whole thing would get covered in what look like fake spider webs. Until I started spraying at first signs.
     
    I always considered those to be caterpillars, but no idea if they actually are, or what kind.

    I'd start with Sevin Dust powder, or I think they make a spray now. Or a mixture of dish soap and water or cayenne and water sprayed on the plant, those are the three fixes I've been given as I've had my gardens wiped out over the years.

    It's also a great excuse to travel around the Bay and spend a day "consulting" with @oneshot86 , especially on Memorial Day. I'm guessing @Agent K may be making some loud noises today.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: oneshot86
    I always considered those to be caterpillars, but no idea if they actually are, or what kind.

    I'd start with Sevin Dust powder, or I think they make a spray now. Or a mixture of dish soap and water or cayenne and water sprayed on the plant, those are the three fixes I've been given as I've had my gardens wiped out over the years.

    It's also a great excuse to travel around the Bay and spend a day "consulting" with @oneshot86 , especially on Me,primal Day. I'm guessing @Agent K may be making some loud noises today.

    N,
    I thought about the soapy water thing too. Wasn't sure if it would work or not.

    Here's a better pic of one of them after a soapy bath.

    20200525_093012.jpg


    Won't be able to go to the nursery playground today, got other stuff going on. ☹
     
    Are you not wanting to go the insecticide route?

    Big box stores sell some that are organic, pet, kid, bee friendly if thats your preference.

    Or you might find a home recipe.

    I have a yellow flowered shrub that used to get infested with a similar worm every year. The whole thing would get covered in what look like fake spider webs. Until I started spraying at first signs.

    Not skeered of chemicals since Uncle Sam pretty much marinated me in JP-4, JP-5 and JP-8 over a 21 year span.
    Add in hydraulic fluid, oils, MEK and Coolanol, a little bug killer ain't gonna hurt. 😁
     
    Ya know, I've sprayed down my clothes and sleeping bags, etc with Permethrin, but never thought to use it on plants.
    There's oil based for use on livestock, barns etc and water based for crops. Eight by bonide is a good product for veg garden.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: oneshot86
    If you want to go organic try diatomaceous earth. You can buy it at most good feed stores.



    What Is Diatomaceous Earth?

    Diatomaceous earth is a naturally occurring sand extracted from the earth.

    It consists of microscopic skeletons of algae — known as diatoms — that have fossilized over millions of years (1).

    There are two main types of diatomaceous earth: food grade, which is suitable for consumption, and filter grade, which is inedible but has many industrial uses.

    The diatoms in diatomaceous earth are largely made up of a chemical compound called silica.

    Silica is commonly found in nature as a component of everything from sand and rocks to plants and humans. However, diatomaceous earth is a concentrated source of silica, which makes it unique (2Trusted Source).

    Commercially available diatomaceous earth is said to contain 80–90% silica, several other trace minerals, and small amounts of iron oxide (rust) (1).




    Diatomaceous Earth as an Insecticide

    Food grade diatomaceous earth is often used as an insecticide.

    When it comes in contact with an insect, the silica removes the waxy outer coating from the insect's exoskeleton.

    Without this coating, the insect cannot retain water and dies of dehydration (5, 6Trusted Source).

    Some farmers believe that adding diatomaceous earth to livestock feed kills internal worms and parasites through similar mechanisms, but this use remains unproven (7).

    SUMMARYDiatomaceous earth is used as an insecticide to remove the waxy outer coating from the exoskeleton of insects. Some believe that it can also kill parasites, but this needs further research.
     
    If you want to go organic try diatomaceous earth. You can buy it at most good feed stores.



    What Is Diatomaceous Earth?

    Diatomaceous earth is a naturally occurring sand extracted from the earth.

    It consists of microscopic skeletons of algae — known as diatoms — that have fossilized over millions of years (1).

    There are two main types of diatomaceous earth: food grade, which is suitable for consumption, and filter grade, which is inedible but has many industrial uses.

    The diatoms in diatomaceous earth are largely made up of a chemical compound called silica.

    Silica is commonly found in nature as a component of everything from sand and rocks to plants and humans. However, diatomaceous earth is a concentrated source of silica, which makes it unique (2Trusted Source).

    Commercially available diatomaceous earth is said to contain 80–90% silica, several other trace minerals, and small amounts of iron oxide (rust) (1).




    Diatomaceous Earth as an Insecticide

    Food grade diatomaceous earth is often used as an insecticide.

    When it comes in contact with an insect, the silica removes the waxy outer coating from the insect's exoskeleton.

    Without this coating, the insect cannot retain water and dies of dehydration (5, 6Trusted Source).

    Some farmers believe that adding diatomaceous earth to livestock feed kills internal worms and parasites through similar mechanisms, but this use remains unproven (7).
    Read the back side of a rock quarry ticket and you might decide it's safer to drink permethrin. :-D
     
    Read the back side of a rock quarry ticket and you might decide it's safer to drink permethrin. :-D


    ----------
    Read the back side of a rock quarry ticket and you might decide it's safer to drink permethrin. :-D
    ----------


    This...

    Interstitial lung disease from inhaling stuff like silica is absolutely no joke. Makes me want to put on an N95 mask just to read about diatomaceous earth over the internet, LOL...
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Bender
    I work around a LOT of rock dust, and stay the fuck out of that shit too.
    Something interesting I got to watch. Installed subballast for new track. Railroad follows with track install. THEN installs the ballast rock. I'm still not sure I understand how a rail car that's sitting on the track raises the track when installing ballast. Another strange thing is track lowering. The thing that removes the dirt from underneath the track....is riding on the track.
     
    Something interesting I got to watch. Installed subballast for new track. Railroad follows with track install. THEN installs the ballast rock. I'm still not sure I understand how a rail car that's sitting on the track raises the track when installing ballast. Another strange thing is track lowering. The thing that removes the dirt from underneath the track....is riding on the track.

    I saw a version of that operation when I was living next to the tracks up north. I watched, fascinated, for hours trying to figure out exactly wth was going on and how they were doing it. Amazing.

    Thanks for the recommendation on the BT. I built a raised planter for my family in SC and so far we've been battling just about every pest but horn worms (thankfully) A couple of the vegetables require pollinators and like an absolute idiot I didn't even consider the bees while my cousin has been dusting things.
     
    Okay,
    We're gonna try the BT first because we like the bees, wasps and butterflies.
    The lavender is next to a bunch of young Plumbago and we're already getting the good critters hanging out on them.

    @Rthur Rebecca asked what a fleshlight was... she had to suppress a giggle when I explained it to her.
    She led a pretty sheltered life before we met.
     
    Okay,
    We're gonna try the BT first because we like the bees, wasps and butterflies.
    The lavender is next to a bunch of young Plumbago and we're already getting the good critters hanging out on them.

    @Rthur Rebecca asked what a fleshlight was... she had to suppress a giggle when I explained it to her.
    She led a pretty sheltered life before we met.
    The BT works well. Keep in mind they have to eat some of it first before it works (kills them) so you will sustain some more minor leaf damage before it is all said and done. With how BT works they do stop eating after the first bite though. You can google the effects of BT on a caterpillar. It's not a merciful death, lol.
     
    Has no hair, general term, so I believe it to be a butterfly, not a moth, but I'll find out.
    We use permithrin in the nursery.
    I'm happy to give you some next time I see you Mike, but you can get it at ace hardware under the brand name hi yield. 5, 10, and 30%
    We also sell the sell it to our customers as well. Depending on % it's safe to say 1 oz per gallon and hose everything down, under the follage as well.
    Permithrin is the man made equivalent of the natural pyethrin. It's the most useful for us in the nursery.
    Only other insecticide we use is bifethrin, for the Damn fire ants.
    If the plant looks like hell Mike, come get anouther next time you are around visiting your mom.
    The Mona, is one of my faves because it generally has no problems and always has a nice purple bloom.
    We are getting into the hot and steamy time of the year. So, fungus.
    Fungus among us, lol.
    Copper sulfate is what we use, and also under the high yield brand name. Dilute it and hose the plant material down.
    Also, snails will be coming. Put a small tin of beer out, the little fuckers will go for it and drown, awe, too fucking bad.
    I'm away from the nursery right now, when I get back I'll take some pics of the hi yield label.
    Take note, there are many ways to buy the permithrin and copper sulfate. We use and sell this brand because of the good container it's in. It's durable and small. The customer doesn't need a 10 year gallon supply w a container that's going to get sloppy and leak.
    Once I known what that little mother fucker is, Mike, I'll call.
     
    Has no hair, general term, so I believe it to be a butterfly, not a moth, but I'll find out.
    We use permithrin in the nursery.
    I'm happy to give you some next time I see you Mike, but you can get it at ace hardware under the brand name hi yield. 5, 10, and 30%
    We also sell the sell it to our customers as well. Depending on % it's safe to say 1 oz per gallon and hose everything down, under the follage as well.
    Permithrin is the man made equivalent of the natural pyethrin. It's the most useful for us in the nursery.
    Only other insecticide we use is bifethrin, for the Damn fire ants.
    If the plant looks like hell Mike, come get anouther next time you are around visiting your mom.
    The Mona, is one of my faves because it generally has no problems and always has a nice purple bloom.
    We are getting into the hot and steamy time of the year. So, fungus.
    Fungus among us, lol.
    Copper sulfate is what we use, and also under the high yield brand name. Dilute it and hose the plant material down.
    Also, snails will be coming. Put a small tin of beer out, the little fuckers will go for it and drown, awe, too fucking bad.
    I'm away from the nursery right now, when I get back I'll take some pics of the hi yield label.
    Take note, there are many ways to buy the permithrin and copper sulfate. We use and sell this brand because of the good container it's in. It's durable and small. The customer doesn't need a 10 year gallon supply w a container that's going to get sloppy and leak.
    Once I known what that little mother fucker is, Mike, I'll call.

    A question, Oneshot. I have two young Mulberry trees that got hit by a fungus this spring. I used something I got at the local co op called Fungoil which seemed to help but they are still weak. Suggestions?

    If youve never had fresh mulberries, youve missed a treat.
     
    Chickens will make short work of them lol
     
    If I may, and it's too late for us I'm sure, but all the Chokecherry trees here in The 'Peg got a disease/fungus of some sort. The tree we have in our yard has been decimated by it.

    My point being, is there a 'chokecherry' disease/growth that you are aware of, and what (if anything) could we have done? Just curious. It used to be such a nice tree.
     
    Something interesting I got to watch. Installed subballast for new track. Railroad follows with track install. THEN installs the ballast rock. I'm still not sure I understand how a rail car that's sitting on the track raises the track when installing ballast. Another strange thing is track lowering. The thing that removes the dirt from underneath the track....is riding on the track.
    It’s amazing how much rail bends, even in a short span between wheel sets, when it’s warm.
     
    A question, Oneshot. I have two young Mulberry trees that got hit by a fungus this spring. I used something I got at the local co op called Fungoil which seemed to help but they are still weak. Suggestions?

    If youve never had fresh mulberries, youve missed a treat.

    generally speaking, the copper sulfate is the best for fungus, and, its sold under many different names. always look at the active ingredients on the label.
    Now, things are so so different between usda plant hardiness zones that i may not be very helpful to you w your northern mulberry.
    here in florida we use the Ag section of university of Florida Gainesville as our guide, we have ag extensions through out Florida.
    maybe there is something similar in Va.
    i did a search on the fungoil, im not familiar w it or its active ingredient. the trees could have gone through a little shock being sick,
    feed and water and be patient w them, they should be fine. we have a bush and tree form of mulberrys that grow in our part of the state and by all means they are great tasting, we sell them both here.
     
    Got the plant from @oneshot86 and it was beautiful. Now it's hurting.

    View attachment 7335402

    View attachment 7335397

    This image is showing the culprit on the tip of a rubber glove.

    They look like Army worms, but I don't think they are due to the center stripe.

    Tent worms aren't correct either.

    Anyone have an idea what they actually are and the best way to kill them off?

    i think its a army worm mike, probably the birds helped him over from one of the old pastures.
    treat your yard. they call it an army worm because when theres one theres an army of them.

    after the rain pushes through, spray your front yard
     
    Last edited:
    generally speaking, the copper sulfate is the best for fungus, and, its sold under many different names. always look at the active ingredients on the label.
    Now, things are so so different between usda plant hardiness zones that i may not be very helpful to you w your northern mulberry.
    here in florida we use the Ag section of university of Florida Gainesville as our guide, we have ag extensions through out Florida.
    maybe there is something similar in Va.
    i did a search on the fungoil, im not familiar w it or its active ingredient. the trees could have gone through a little shock being sick,
    feed and water and be patient w them, they should be fine. we have a bush and tree form of mulberrys that grow in our part of the state and by all means they are great tasting, we sell them both here.

    Thanks, I think Ill root feed them and maybe get some of the copper sulfate.

    We have something similar, The Virginia Tech Extension Service. They helped me out when my yard got infested with mining bees. Imagine a pencil sized hole every two inches and in each hole a bee which breeds more bees the next year. It was a mess. nothing seemed to phase them, I even sprayed gasoline on them and they just flew away. The only saving grace is they didnt sting.
     
    Got the plant from @oneshot86 and it was beautiful. Now it's hurting.

    View attachment 7335402

    View attachment 7335397

    This image is showing the culprit on the tip of a rubber glove.

    They look like Army worms, but I don't think they are due to the center stripe.

    Tent worms aren't correct either.

    Anyone have an idea what they actually are and the best way to kill them off?
    You could get some praying mantises too, they’ll eat anything
     
    Thanks, I think Ill root feed them and maybe get some of the copper sulfate.

    We have something similar, The Virginia Tech Extension Service. They helped me out when my yard got infested with mining bees. Imagine a pencil sized hole every two inches and in each hole a bee which breeds more bees the next year. It was a mess. nothing seemed to phase them, I even sprayed gasoline on them and they just flew away. The only saving grace is they didnt sting.

    if the trees are young, small root balls, be careful. the trees being week may shock if you disturb the root ball too much. we feed from the top of the soil and let it leach through the soil and rootball by watering
     
    i think its a army worm mike, probably the birds helped him over from one of the old pastures.
    treat your yard. they call it an army worm because when theres one theres an army of them.

    after the rain pushes through, spray your front yard

    also, if you can catch a good half dozen of those critters, put them in a jar w some of those mona leaves and take them fresh water swimmin w a hook in them, they look like something a bass would fight for
     
    • Haha
    Reactions: Maggot
    When you are finished washing your dishes, use the soapy, greasy dish water to water your plants or spray it over the plants, bugs hate it.
     
    if the trees are young, small root balls, be careful. the trees being week may shock if you disturb the root ball too much. we feed from the top of the soil and let it leach through the soil and rootball by watering

    Youre the second person who said that. I think Ill pay attention and follow instructions.
     
    Not skeered of chemicals since Uncle Sam pretty much marinated me in JP-4, JP-5 and JP-8 over a 21 year span.
    Add in hydraulic fluid, oils, MEK and Coolanol, a little bug killer ain't gonna hurt. 😁
    MEK and Trike exposure alone should warrant a 100% rating from the VA, the list of side effects of MEK is two pages of fine print.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: oneshot86
    I'll have to check into that MEK exposure. They tried to get us using other chemicals, but nothing worked as well.
    1-1-1 , damn, I forgot about using that too.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: oneshot86
    also, if you can catch a good half dozen of those critters, put them in a jar w some of those mona leaves and take them fresh water swimmin w a hook in them, they look like something a bass would fight for

    Your post reminds me of catawba worms. Catfish slayer...
     
    Looks closest to the "yellow striped army worm".

    It does to me also. There are a couple minor differences, but they are subtle enough to prevent ruling them out.
    I'm just going to treat the lawn and shrubbery (Monty Python reference) tomorrow.
     
    You can get packs of Trichogramma wasp eggs. They will destroy a capillar population. I tried it for codling moths, but no dice there. Something like army worms seems to be more up their ally, being a nice sized worm to lay an egg in. Codlings hatch on the surface, then burrow in. BT stops them well.
     
    If nothing else works, HIGH EXPLOSIVES seem appropriate. (Sign on the bomb bay doors of a B-52- the plane, not a member of the band!) :cool:
     
    Have you seen them actually eating the plant? Only reason I ask is I have had holes in my plants from slugs. Before you try spraying anything cut a beer can in half. Put just enough beer to cover the bottom and set it under the plant leaves. Wait until morning. If it's slugs they will be in there after a night. It's cheap and doesn't hurt anything to try.