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Gunsmithing Threading for Surefire 762SSAL/RE

Heretoimproveforhunting

Heretoimproveforhunting

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 10, 2008
628
479
North TX
#1
Question for the experts. I asked my usual barreler to thread for a surefire brake. Gave them a surefire spec sheet that I got from a rep and they machined to spec, with the threads running for .625 inches. That said, when I put the brake on I can still see that there's approx. ,30 - .40 inches (i'm just making a rough guess / but it's several turns) of threading still 'available' inside the adapter. As a result it seems as though the muzzle sits kind of far back inside the brake - where if the threading were longer it would terminate closer to the brake's ports. I'm assuming people run these on AR-10s all the time and probably have a similar threading set-up, so I'm leaning towards it being a non-issue. But if it would lend to decreased accuracy, it may make sense to have it re-turned/threaded now, before the rifle is fully complete. Any thoughts? I don't have a can to run on it at the moment, but would like to look at getting one. Would I run into any issues with this set-up as is with a can?

Note - I realize that the brake isn't currently timed correctly - I just put it on for a quick picture. Even timed with the correct washer, theres still substantial threading available inside the brake.

Threading.jpg


Threading2.jpg
 
#5
Re: Threading for Surefire 762SSAL/RE

Yeah I'm by no means an expert, but I would assume that the smith was familiar with timed brakes...which is kinda weird.

you can take it back to him and have him remove threads until the timing is right, then apply the correct crowning.

Which I think is an 11 degree crown...but I could be wrong.
 
#6
Re: Threading for Surefire 762SSAL/RE

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Praetorian Arms</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah I'm by no means an expert, but I would assume that the smith was familiar with timed brakes...which is kinda weird.

you can take it back to him and have him remove threads until the timing is right, then apply the correct crowning.

Which I think is an 11 degree crown...but I could be wrong. </div></div>

Yes you are wrong. Surefire brakes time off the shoulder, like most other brakes. No need to recrown. Just need to skim shoulder to time the brake.

How many turns of the brake do you get before it is tight? 15ish?
 
#7
Re: Threading for Surefire 762SSAL/RE

i'll figure the turns tonight. for clarity my concern isnt with the timing aspect. i can fix that with the washer system. its that when i look inside the muzzle end there is additional room for the break to thread on further if the shoulder is taken back more as you pointed out. is this something thats typically done when mounting these brakes or is the standard to just turn it to surefire minimum spec? is there advantage to one over the other? if the reader focuses on the second photo i posted they can see that the rifle muzzle sits way back in the brake - theres a lot of threads inside the brake left over. its probably not an issue but figured i would ask this group for advice
 
#8
Re: Threading for Surefire 762SSAL/RE

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Praetorian Arms</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah I'm by no means an expert, but I would assume that the smith was familiar with timed brakes...which is kinda weird.

you can take it back to him and have him remove threads until the timing is right, then apply the correct crowning.

Which I think is an 11 degree crown...but I could be wrong. </div></div>

its crowned, you just cant make it out in my crappy pictures
 
#9
Re: Threading for Surefire 762SSAL/RE

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: skog</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> How many turns of the brake do you get before it is tight? 15ish? </div></div>

Skog - I'm getting 10 and 3/4 turns.
 
#11
Re: Threading for Surefire 762SSAL/RE

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Turk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Either somethings up w/ the brake or the threading and or taper. How much room in the back? </div></div>

I measured it at around .225" in the rear, from the back of the brake to where the barrel contour picks back up.
 
#12
Re: Threading for Surefire 762SSAL/RE

with the brake off it looks like the print from SF. they do sit aways in side the brake. Ive done a bunch per print and have all of them shoot so if it measures right run it.
 
#13
Re: Threading for Surefire 762SSAL/RE

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hsss</div><div class="ubbcode-body">with the brake off it looks like the print from SF. they do sit aways in side the brake. Ive done a bunch per print and have all of them shoot so if it measures right run it. </div></div>

Thanks - glad to hear that one other person has run them ok with the muzzle back 'in' the brake. Guess I'll move forward and get the rifle finished up and shooting and see if I run into any other problems. Worst case I have to cut and re-thread down the line.
 
#15
Re: Threading for Surefire 762SSAL/RE

It's normal for there to be more threads in the muzzle device than there are on the barrel.

You don't actually WANT the muzzle too close to the first port.
More room in there gives the gas the space it needs to make a proper expansion before it hits that first baffle in the brake.
 
#16
Re: Threading for Surefire 762SSAL/RE

Yeah all mine have extra threads exposed, if I'm not mistaken the extra threads are for some AR-10's such as a Larue that have longer thread tenons.
 
#17
Re: Threading for Surefire 762SSAL/RE

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Special Delivery</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah all mine have extra threads exposed, if I'm not mistaken the extra threads are for some AR-10's such as a Larue that have longer thread tenons. </div></div>
Why wouldn't they be cut to print?
 
#18
Re: Threading for Surefire 762SSAL/RE

it's fine. rtfd and install the shims how it tells you to. there is an expansion chamber after the muzzle before the first baffle (notice the holes on the top of the brake?).


and it is a BRAKE, not a break. you really have problems if your muzzle breaks.
 
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