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Tikka T1X

Geat Info PrebanPaul, we will def be picking up a couple boxes of CCI Standard to try this weekend, it will be nice to shoot a .22 ammo we can buy locally. And LOL at the handle, it means a lot here where I live, I'm a bit of a PrebanRob :)

Look forward to the pics Eoddave27!

And to anyone with a TRG and wishing to use their bipod, I got a response from KRG stating that "they are not purposefully designed to fit anymore" not sure if that means all Bravo stocks or just the T1x version, although based on it not being on their website, I'm guessing they were referring to all.

Nice to know I'm not crazy, just persistent.
 
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In general CCI SV has been hit or miss for me. I had one lot that was absolutely amazing and 5 lots that were crap out of my MKii and RPR. If you look at the target below I shot a whole targets worth of 10 shot groups like the one below at 50 yards with my MKii with that good lot of CCI SV. It appears all the crap lots shoot pretty decent out of my T1X inside 100 yards though. I will probably be using that for pratice and keep my more expensive ammo for matches and anything past 100 yards. For what it’s worth the Wolf match made by Eley shot amazing out of my tikka and it can be picked up for around $60 a brick if you shop around. One thing I have found when switching ammo with all my 22s though is when I change ammo I need to run 5-10 rounds of the new ammo through the rifle before it settles in. With my MKii the first 5 shots would be all over the place. I mean a 5” group at 100 yards. Once it settled in it would come down to around 1”. It’s not as drastic with the tikka but still there. Maybe some of the rimfire gurus out there can explain the phenomenon.

6636C016-61C2-487B-915D-D4D782109C65.jpeg
 
It's just the differences in the lubrication. Switching between different types of one manufacturer (i.e from SK Pistol Match, to SK Standard Plus, to Rifle Match), you shouldn't require fouling rounds like when changing brands.
 
Nice! Looks like you swapped a T3 bolt handle?

No, I actually cast that bolt handle directly onto my bolt using a metal filled urethane resin. The stuff is just about indestructible. If you look back on page 21 you can see the process I used. I made molds of several bolt handles I like and if I get a rifle with a bolt knob I don’t like I simply grind it off and cast the one on that I like. I have modified quite a few of my friends rifles the same way.
 
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a speed loader for the T1X?
My son is starting to get into shooting and he wants to go through rounds.
 
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I got the T1x ready for this weekend. The Murphy rail looks/feels well made. I added a steel .223 thread protector that I had in a box, the newer Vortex DBT FFP with Larue mount, and the Armageddon Gear Cheeky Bastard. Also with big brother :)

edit: No Zorph, not heard of a speed loader for the T1x but new to Tikka

edit 2: Amazon order just arrived with a 2 for $10 thread protector for .22 with free overnight shipping. Not too bad.
7055608

7055609

7055629
 
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Sterk announces that their swept bolt handles are coming very soon!!!!!!!!!!!

I just checked Europtic and they have quite a few bolt handles listed. They are back ordered I’m guessing because they haven’t arrived yet but it looks like they have Three flavors all for around $90. I like the bolt knob I put on mine but I am really liking the look of the backswept bolt handle.
 
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I just checked Europtic and they have quite a few bolt handles listed. They are back ordered I’m guessing because they haven’t arrived yet but it looks like they have Three flavors all for around $90. I like the bolt knob I put on mine but I am really liking the look of the backswept bolt handle.
The Sterk T1x parts have only juuuuust been officially announced, allow a bit of time for Eurooptic and Tacticalworks to have them listed. The T1x parts are not the same as the T3 parts though, the T1x swept ball handle had to be a completely new design - just uses the same knob on the end. The shroud is completely different too. Hopefully costs will be slightly less than current T3 handle and shroud pricing. Don't forget Facebook pricing is in AU dollars, US dollars will work out to be a bit less.
 
The Sterk T1x parts have only juuuuust been officially announced, allow a bit of time for Eurooptic and Tacticalworks to have them listed. The T1x parts are not the same as the T3 parts though, the T1x swept ball handle had to be a completely new design - just uses the same knob on the end. The shroud is completely different too. Hopefully costs will be slightly less than current T3 handle and shroud pricing. Don't forget Facebook pricing is in AU dollars, US dollars will work out to be a bit less.

Europtic already has them listed, they just don’t have photos yet.

 
Broke a firing pin this week. I was test-firing after adjusting the trigger weight down to the factory minimum. The trigger felt great, I wasn't able to get a slam-fire everything was fine. Then the bolt wouldn't close and I discovered the firing sitting in a bolt raceway.

Has anyone else had this problem? Was Beretta USA able to help? Am I going to have to wait for parts to get shipped from Finland (or worse yet, Italy)?

On the positive side, the rail I have been waiting for from Area419, now is sure to show up tomorrow.

This rifle makes me feel like Charlie Brown. I am finally so close and another thing pulls it away. Arggggg.....
 
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Broke a firing pin this week. I was test-firing after adjusting the trigger weight down to the factory minimum. The trigger felt great, I wasn't able to get a slam-fire everything was fine. Then the bolt wouldn't close and I discovered the firing sitting in a bolt raceway.

Has anyone else had this problem? Was Beretta USA able to help? Am I going to have to wait for parts to get shipped from Finland (or worse yet, Italy)?

On the positive side, the rail I have been waiting for from Area419, now is sure to show up tomorrow.

This rifle makes me feel like Charlie Brown. I am finally so close and another thing pulls it away. Arggggg.....
That's a pain... can you show a photo how/where it broke? Hope you get sorted out and back in business.
 
Anyone have a pic of the T1X Bravo mag well with a mag installed? I’m considering setting one of these up.
1. With mag
2. Without mag
3. Side view - mag installed
 

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I’ve got a MDT LSS on they way and hope to report on the fitment Wednesday.
That's a pain... can you show a photo how/where it broke? Hope you get sorted out and back in business.

I meant to get into it this weekend and pull out and inspect the firing pin so I cab sure sure that is where this pin i found in the action came from. Are there official instructions for bolt disassembly? I didn’t see anything in the owners manual or you-tube. As almost everyone on this thread knows the bolt is different than the T3 and I don’t want to make it worse through trial and error.

Any links to instructions for bolt disassembly?
 
To be clear. I can remove the shroud, striker, cocking spring and bolt handle.

I am trying to determine if I should be able to remove the firing pin and return spring without pulling the forward lateral pin. And if I do, is there a direction the pin needs to be removed?
 
@Redshako I was going to make a video how to do it for replacing the bolt shroud.
Punch the pin out from the shroud, make sure you hold onto the shroud when you remove the punch because there's a lot of spring tension pushing backwards. You can use a pin punch or even a small enough allen key will do. Also, take a photo before you start so you know that the cocking piece is at the right position when reassembling.
Once the shroud is off everything comes out, the firing pin will be the last thing to come out.

No need to remove the forward pin, just the shroud pin.
 
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I did all of those steps. However, the firing pin does not come out, it almost appears to be captured by the transverse pin. I attached a picture of the rear of the firing pin and the forward pin. I have also included a picture of the broken pin that I believe is the forward end of the firing pin.

Thoughts?
 

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My mistake, looks like the front pin is holding the section of firing pin.
I tried punching the pin out but it didn't budge. Might need heat if its loctited or something to stop it from sliding out and becoming a problem.
If something has broken though id be chasing down Beretta to replace it before they try put the blame on you for pulling it apart maybe.
 
My mistake, looks like the front pin is holding the section of firing pin.
I tried punching the pin out but it didn't budge. Might need heat if its loctited or something to stop it from sliding out and becoming a problem.
If something has broken though id be chasing down Beretta to replace it before they try put the blame on you for pulling it apart maybe.

How the heck could they design it in a way that's difficult to disassemble in case you wanted to replace the firing pin or give everything a thorough cleaning? Every other rifle I own has a bolt that can be easily taken apart. I tried punching that front pin out on my T1x bolt too, but it wouldn't budge. Hopefully someone will figure the best way to do it and post it here.
 


Yes that was what I used to get as far as I did. However, it does not show the forward transverse pin. I took this to mean that the transverse pin does not need to be removed to remove the full firing pin assembly or other assemblies the diagram calls out.

Now that I have stripped it as far as I have, I believe it means that, like the bolt body, the front transverse pin isn't available as a separate spare part SKU.
 
Yes that was what I used to get as far as I did. However, it does not show the forward transverse pin. I took this to mean that the transverse pin does not need to be removed to remove the full firing pin assembly or other assemblies the diagram calls out.

Now that I have stripped it as far as I have, I believe it means that, like the bolt body, the front transverse pin isn't available as a separate spare part SKU.
I wrapped the open rear of the bolt with duct tape to prevent the pin and spring from shooting out...added several layers of duct tape to my vise jaws to protect the bolt from marring. Punched the pin from right to left. (If viewed from the top)
 

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@SR361 well done, thank you for posting. how hard did you find it was to punch out?
Any idea if it was an interference fit or any substance/residue left from loctite or anything?
 
@SR361 well done, thank you for posting. how hard did you find it was to punch out?
Any idea if it was an interference fit or any substance/residue left from loctite or anything?
It was fairly snug, as it should be. No glue or Loctite, but you will definitely need a vise! There is no need to drive it all the way out...just far enough for the pin and spring to clear. I'll take a pic of it removed in a sec...phone batt. croaked.
 
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(Installing the firing pin). Be sure to depress the "firing pin" and spring with a thin screwdriver or similar device as you tap/re-seat the "retaining pin". Failure to do so will shear/snap the new/cleaned firing pin.
After complete bolt reassembly, secure in the vise and cock by raising the bolt handle. The bolt won't return to battery otherwise.
 
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Well I got out today and shot some groups at 50 yards to figure out what ammo the rifle liked the best. I tried CCI SV, SK pistol match special, Eley Edge, Wolf Match Extra, Lapua Center x and Norma Match. The Eley, Wolf and Center x all shot about the same. I will get some photos of the target once I get some measurements on it. The wind was 5mph gusting to 15. It is really easy to see when there was a gust. On all the better ammo the group was almost perfectly vertical based on the velocity I was getting. If I got a gust it was pushing the bullet right. Even with the gust all my 10 shot groups were still around 0.5”. Like I said I will post some pictures tomorrow. If I use some ammo with a really low SD I think this rifle would be scary accurate. I may have to bite the bullet and buy some Tenex to see what this rifle can really do.
 
DO we know what the threading is on the barrel?

It is standard 1/2 28. I took the knurled metal thread protector off my savage MKii and it went right on replacing the cheap plastic one that comes with the rifle.


Sixfivesavage, I have been thinking about a Vudoo for some time now but it would have been really stretching my budget. Based on Tikkas reputation I decided to take a chance on A T1x. I’m really glad I did. Really the only significant advantage for my purpose is the Magazine on the Vudoo. That being said the Tikka is really easy to do fast mag changes unlike a lot of 22’s I have shot. I’m sure the Vudoo will be a little more accurate but based on what I saw today there really isn’t much room for improvement in accuracy. From what I could tell the only thing creating different points of impact was velocity variations in the ammo.
 
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I'm experiencing what feels like galling or binding about every 5th or 6th time when I cycle my bolt. Sometimes the bolt lifts up normally, sometimes it requires substantially more effort. The binding or galling happens when i lift the bolt up from the closed position, and happens whether i've dry fired or not. Anyone figured this out? very odd that it doesn't happen every time. The other thing i notice is that the bolt really binds if there is an upward or downward pressure at all when the bolt is pulled back or pushed forward. If the bolt is perfetly neutral, it slides pretty freely forward and back. I lightly oiled all surfaces on the bolt, but it didn't make much of a difference. Any suggestions appreciated.
 
I will be doing some DOPE on the Tikka T1x with the standard velocity CCI ammo. I am going to start out at 50 and go from there. I have run two ballistic apps that are not lining up with what I am finding in the field. So I will be running targets tomorrow at 50,87.5,100,125,150,175,200 All ranges will be shot with a Leica 2000B range finder. I will have results by 1 pm eastern time.
 
Took my T1X out over the weekend to shoot while my match rifle barrel cooled between groups. Great little trainer rifle and seems to like the SK Plus and Lapua Center-X the best. I've put around 450 rounds through it, I'm going to clean the barrel and do another test with Norma Match, SK and Lapua to see if I get the same results. I tried Eley match and it shot terribly. The attached group if off a barricade at 50yds with SK.

@cannoncrossfire this thing needs your bolt handle and shroud!

56887085_671146933320767_2268503109003116544_o.jpg


56247858_671146363320824_6632746973357146112_n.jpg


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I will be doing some DOPE on the Tikka T1x with the standard velocity CCI ammo. I am going to start out at 50 and go from there. I have run two ballistic apps that are not lining up with what I am finding in the field. So I will be running targets tomorrow at 50,87.5,100,125,150,175,200 All ranges will be shot with a Leica 2000B range finder. I will have results by 1 pm eastern time.

Paul, this is what I have been getting for CCI +- 1/10 a mil out of my rifle. Eley Edge is about the same.
7B87A75D-23DA-444C-AEF5-F1BBEB6DDE0F.png
 
Here is my target from yesterday. There are a few stray rounds from some guys shooting a 22 pistol across the range. Other than that I can’t wait to see what it does when I’m not getting 15mph wind gusts. For the most part I had a pretty consistent 5 mph wind but I was caught by a few gusts that opened up some of the groups.
7063F6F5-DF96-40FD-874F-84BA73DC1BD5.jpeg
 
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So here are my results. Distance seems a little off because the range I go to, I found out today after going for 22 years is way off. ( The range is supposed to be a 50,75,100,200 After using a Leica 2000b I found out it is actually 47,73,96,191 ) Guess I should have checked that years and years ago.

So here is what I have


50---------0 mil
85---------1.3
125--------3.4
150--------5.1
175--------6.6
191--------7.6 mil

I set up targets at these exact range found intervals, I was shooting CCI standard velocity. I was shooting three shot groups for vertical correction only. In today's wind, it would have been stupid to shoot for groups.


The set up I have is a Tikka T1x, Timney 2 stage trigger, DIP 25 moa rail, and Burris Xtr2 5x25 SCR. This was shot suppressed. I had a 5-22mph wind at my 430.
 
I’m going to order a few bricks of Wolf and SK for practice ammo. I’ll try some of the rifle match this time. My last rifle didn’t seem to really like it but rimfire is so lot dependent you just never know. The Eley and Center x shot consistently well but at $11-13 a box I don’t think the difference is significant enough to justify the cost for everyday shooting. I will need to do some 200-300 yard testing and see how the different ammo stacks up. Either way I think it would be hard to find a stock rifle under 1k that consistently shoots better across all brands of ammo.
 
Distance seems a little off because the range I go to, I found out today after going for 22 years is way off. ( The range is supposed to be a 50,75,100,200 After using a Leica 2000b I found out it is actually 47,73,96,191 ) Guess I should have checked that years and years ago.

Is your 2000B set to report horizontal range based on inclination / declination? The range may be line of site distances.
 
Paul, what elevation are you shooting at? Your dope looks a lot different than mine using CCI SV. Looking at yours you need almost a full mil more elevation at 150 yards. I wonder if it is just lot variations in velocity.
 
I shot 25-300 yards with the tikka Saturday. Used sk rifle match. Very accurate. I was really pleased with the results. 300 was a little tough with the little bit of wind. 12" plate was not too bad after I got on target. 6" plate was definitely harder to stay on. I hit the 3" plate once out of maybe 20 shots. Lots of fun, I love this gun. Hopefully grayboe will release their Tikka inlets for other stocks this summer like they said they would.