Agree. Very happy with my Area 419 base. I also have one on my CZ and they both have been excellent. I have become a big fan of how Area 419 mills their rails so they don't have sharp edges.
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
Agree. Very happy with my Area 419 base. I also have one on my CZ and they both have been excellent. I have become a big fan of how Area 419 mills their rails so they don't have sharp edges.
Helos and up. The best Athlon scope for the money in my opinion is the Midas TAC.
I have the Ares BTR 4.5-29x, so a little more magnification. I think it'll clear the barrel zoomed out. I ordered the 0.9" rings.. I had a 1.1" mount (ad-recon-sl) but didn't notice that the DIP rail doesn't support 1 piece mounts. So now I have an extra ad-recon-sl for the PX...
Here's things coming along today... I didn't go for the arca rail, to keep some costs down... I went with the Atlas BT46-LW17 and will just connect it to the L2 rail up front.
The cheapo compact kiddie stock... would anyone buy that? I guess it'd cost nearly $25 to ship, and probably only sell for like... $30.
Agree about the Midas TAC. Such a sweet scope.
This one from Westlake tactical is fantestical. If I need another one this one will be it. I have one now.
6" to 9" Adjustable Pivot / Rotating Spring Return Rifle Bipod Adjustable Legs
6" to 9" Adjustable Pivot / Rotating Spring Return Rifle Bipod Adjustable Legs | 6\' to 9\' Adjustable Pivot / Rotating Spring Return Rifle BipodAdjustable LegsITEM DESCRIPTION6\' to 9\' Pivot / Rotating Bipod with Adjustable LegsPivot rotates to either swww.wltactical.com
View attachment 7094130
Appreciate the Westlake recommendation, going to try a few on PCP air rifles and T1X.
I thought a pic might help explain what I’m getting at. On both my rifle and my daughters the front of the pic rail isn’t used and forces a higher mount in order to bring the scope back where it needs to be. Mine actually fits me about perfect. Hers and my wife’s don’t. I either need to do away with the rail and get some rings or get a cheek riser for them.
Thanks for the photo, didn't realize you are using an aftermarket larger OD barrel. Setup looks about like mine with scope gap.
Area419 rail, ARC X-Low rings, and stock barrel gives me a gnats ass gap between the objective and the barrel.
Hmm with my scopes, they're mounted more center for me to get the proper eye relief.
On another scope I had, I encountered a similar issue you had where it barely cleared the rail (1mm). Current scopes don't have that problem -
On another scope I had, I encountered a similar issue you had where it barely cleared the rail (1mm). Current scopes don't have that problem -
You can see in my below photo I am using the extended portion of the rail. This allows me to space the rings farther apart on the scope as well as fitting the bubble level in there. This is set with proper eye relief in prone with the PST Gen 2 5-25 scope. I also have max LOP spacers in the Bravo stock (tall with lanky arms)
I may be able to move the front ring all the way back against the scope turret housing and keep it on the front rail over the receiver. However, i opted to space them out for better scope support.
I’m 6’2” 195, so probably fall in that lanky category. I use to have my scopes way forward, but started mounting my rifles/getting my cheek weld in a more neutral position. I am up in the air which pst I’m going to put on it I have the 3-15 and the 5-25. Either way they have a lot more room than my tt315m in front of the turrets.
Although I appreciate the above examples of why an extended rail is useful, I on the other hand prefer them a little shorter. Both the Area 419 and Tacord could do with a shorter rail option that eliminates two of the rails out front. I’ve tested several of my scopes out on this rifle before going back to this Athlon, and as you can see the forward rails are useless for me. This is the case with all the scope/rings setups I’ve tried with both the 419 and Tacord rails. With this specific setup, moving the scope forward causes the magnification ring to hit the back of the rail, and moving the scope back causes the bell to hit the front of rail. This is where the shorter DIP rail has the advantage, but I have to change my rings to the NF .885 Low. No biggie. Looks about the same and is more versatile.. I just wanted the extra 5 MOA of cant with this rail for no extra reason other than gaining about an extra 1.45 Mils (~25 yards) of dialing haha.
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Had same problem with my new T1X using the stock trigger spring that I backed out all the way onto the top lip bigger screw. Would not always cock the trigger. I think it's a matter of us trying to wring out the lightest pull. I also had a similar problem years ago with a T3x in .223. We probably just put too much tension on the trigger spring up against the bigger main screw that holds the trigger assembly in place. Backing it off a little bit usually helps. It did mine. Also, on my current T3x in .223, I filed off a tiny, tiny bit of the main screw so that when I backed the trigger spring up there was no tension. I also checked my safety and it was OK.
Got mine full set up today.
KRG Bravo
Lighter trigger spring(not too impressed with it)
Area 419 rail
Midas TAC
NF Ultra Light Rings
Patiently waiting on the Sterk handle
KRG Bravo
Lighter trigger spring(not too impressed with it)
Area 419 rail
Midas TAC
NF Ultra Light Rings
Patiently waiting on the Sterk handle
That sterk handle is nice... it's just amazing you can buy a full rifle for $450, and they want $100 for just the bolt knob. And even then I'm pretty tempted to pick one up...
Now that I look at my T3X CTR, I'm happy I got the CTR and not varmint/lite which have the same tiny bolt handle as the T1x.
Now that I look at my T3X CTR, I'm happy I got the CTR and not varmint/lite which have the same tiny bolt handle as the T1x.
Important to note that the price is in Australian currency. $95 AUD is around $65 USD before shipping.
@JSchell1309 Thank you for pointing that out, I swear I wrote it already about a page back haha.
@littlepod I agree $450US for the rifle and $95US would be a lot for a handle - BUT it's $95AU = $65US.
Brownells sell the Tikka plastic knob extension (just the extension - not a handle) for $49.99US.... that's $15US less than a Sterk CNC machined and hand polished/Cerakoted 431 Stainless Steel handle with a 6061 Aluminium (cerakoted) knob.
People have no trouble paying $60-$65US for an Aluminium picatinny rail that has been CNC machined and anodised, and that's got about half the work involved if i'm honest - no bending, no polishing, no Cerakote - just a 1 piece item with some screws.
The T1x Swept Ball handle is not an easy part to make. You'll see once i've got the video done to show how it goes together.
I'll also add that the DIP handle is cheaper, but it's also cheaper to make (it's a turned part with no milling or extra work required).
Please remember to compare correct currencies and 'apples with apples'.
@littlepod I agree $450US for the rifle and $95US would be a lot for a handle - BUT it's $95AU = $65US.
Brownells sell the Tikka plastic knob extension (just the extension - not a handle) for $49.99US.... that's $15US less than a Sterk CNC machined and hand polished/Cerakoted 431 Stainless Steel handle with a 6061 Aluminium (cerakoted) knob.
People have no trouble paying $60-$65US for an Aluminium picatinny rail that has been CNC machined and anodised, and that's got about half the work involved if i'm honest - no bending, no polishing, no Cerakote - just a 1 piece item with some screws.
The T1x Swept Ball handle is not an easy part to make. You'll see once i've got the video done to show how it goes together.
I'll also add that the DIP handle is cheaper, but it's also cheaper to make (it's a turned part with no milling or extra work required).
Please remember to compare correct currencies and 'apples with apples'.
You have nice products. Where can one order them from? Years ago when I got my T3x I wanted to order a titanium one form you. Never got around to it.
thanks, PM sent.
There’s plenty of decent small frame 22 bolt guns out there to choose from.
They made this specifically to mimic the weight/feel of a centerfire T3x. As a result, the T1x will accommodate T3x stocks with very little work. I was actually able to use an older model T3 laminate stock from Boyd’s with minor fitting (5 minutes with Dremel).
It’s a tad heavy for a rimfire bolt gun, but the one I have in 17HMR is a shooter.
1/2 x 28. I run my Dead Air 22 can on my 17 HMR T1.
ETA - I just realized you were talking about the threads on other end.
@ColdBlood , you are quoting and replying to posts from January 2018. I don't think those guys are still looking for that info a year and a half later.
@cannoncrossfire , just saw your post on IG... I hope we are getting closer. Very excited to try the swept position with the Bravo chassis. Seems like it will get the handle perfectly over your hand, so you can just lift straight up instead of having to move forward to reach the bolt handle.
@cannoncrossfire , just saw your post on IG... I hope we are getting closer. Very excited to try the swept position with the Bravo chassis. Seems like it will get the handle perfectly over your hand, so you can just lift straight up instead of having to move forward to reach the bolt handle.
Oh I'm not saying it's expensive compared to anything else... I'm just saying it's pricey compared to the overall cost of an entire rifle. Like a full Ruger RPR Rimfire is $400. But that's also me saying that man a Timney trigger for $300 when my entire rifle was $400 is also pricey. People still pay for the upgrades and the mechanical advantages.
I do think the Sterk Swept Ball handle is the nicest handle out there. I didn't know it was $95AU, when I did google searches, EuroOptic had it for $90 US.
Clearly I wasn’t looking at the date, but I’m very grateful that you took time out of your obviously busy day to have pointed this out. Otherwise, God only knows how many old questions I might answer.
As penance I will now go smash my finger between a scope and a big, fat badger ordinance bolt knob. Twice.
Took a T3X Recoil Pad and Tikka Butt Spacers off one of my CTRs and gives near identical length of pull to T1X... Both currently on sale on Beretta website.
I just put my T1x in a CTR stock on my lunch break and now I’m confused. I thought someone said that things would need modified.
What needs done for the bolt catch pin?
Any benefits to moving that spacer/shroud piece in front of the action?
What needs done for the bolt catch pin?
Any benefits to moving that spacer/shroud piece in front of the action?
I thought someone mentioned that a factory tikka T3x stock needed modified for the T1x to work. Because the bolt stop/release is in a different position and there was some sort of issue with the pin I took a picture of. I think it was mentioned about 5 ish pages back. I guess I will have to go back and look.
IIRC, it was for aftermarket stocks fit for T3x actions. Tikka's stocks, except the Tac A1?, are interchangeable with other Tikka stocks.
From Tikka's webpage for the T1x.
"ACTION
The action shares the same bedding surfaces and inlay footprint with the centerfire T3x rifles."
My local Cabela’s had a 17hmr in stock today for $469.
I was very tempted to buy it. I’m going to wait, and maybe go back on Father’s Day and buy it then.
They aren’t any cheaper online, and with shipping and transfer the 2 will be very close in OTD cost in the end.
I was very tempted to buy it. I’m going to wait, and maybe go back on Father’s Day and buy it then.
They aren’t any cheaper online, and with shipping and transfer the 2 will be very close in OTD cost in the end.
Buy gift cards @ 10% discount, that's what I do for Cabela's.. when I checked Cabela's they didn't have it on their site or in store
so I bought it at a LGS for $469... I got my CTR at Cabela's using gift cards @ 10% discount. I’ve been back and forth between an RPRR or the CZ 457 ProVarmint in 22 for the NRL22 matches.
If I buy the Tikka 17 hmr it will be strictly for backyard vermin and when roaming the farm.
I almost got the RPR, but I really disliked how plasticy the stock felt, and the action wasn't that smooth. That's why I picked up the Tikka T1X + KRG Bravo...
The old PWS T3 Summit Rifle / Barrel + a Macmillan A5-22 would be pretty darn awesome, but that's almost going to be pushing $1200.
I have been so happy with my T1x in the KRG Bravo that I bought a Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 creedmoor and put it in a matching Bravo stock. The two rifles are basically identical with the exception of a muzzle brake on my 6.5 and they don’t have the same optic yet. Now I have a Tikka CTR stock and magazine I’m not sure what to do with but I love the matching rifles. Is there many market for the CTR stocks? It actually seems like a pretty nice stock but I like the Bravo more.
I'm about to do the same thing! ... I feel wasteful with the CTR Stock & Bottom Metal / Magazine though
I've seen people sell them for like $120... pay $30 to ship it.. .so I guess you'll net like $90Did you sell your T1X Stock? I'm guessing no one is going to buy that...
I have my T1x stock sitting in the corner in a pile of other take off stocks. The one thing I could see someone doing it buying the CTR stock for their T1x so it matches their CTR centerfire rifle. The magazines are really expensive for the Tikka centerfire rifles so that is worth a few bucks in the PX. I may just sell that and give someone here the CTR stock if they will cover the shipping.
Just installed by Tikka T1x into the Oryx chassis. Just trip to the range, shoots great despite the windy conditions. Definitely likes the Action screws torqued pretty tight. Just over an 1 inch at 100m with CCI SV, shoots SK Rifle Match nicely as well. More ammo testing in the works. Backed out the trigger screw and the trigger is down to about 1.5 lbs, typical excellent Tika trigger. I running an Area 419 rail, using Burris rings and a Vortex PST Gen 2. I installed a generic 12 inch Arca rail on the bottom of the forend. I'm liking the Oryx chassis in this configuration, poor man's ACC?. I will probably get another Tikka and keep it in a factory stock to match my hunting rifles.
Ed
Ed
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Do you have an Arca rail on that?
Sorry, missed the clear statement in the text. Which rail fit? I thought the fore-end was curved...
This is a T1x in a Boyd’s stock, which I had originally purchased for an older T3 I have in .243.
I had to drill a hole for the trigger guard tab (WTF is the purpose of that thing, btw?) and I had to dremel out a small amount of material to get the mag well to fit, and then a little fine tuning to get the mag to drop freely. Easy modification. Hopefully some T1x stocks will start hitting the market.
The Vortex Razor LH 3-15x with G4 reticle is a great little (~16 oz) scope for this one in 17HMR...the round is impotent once it starts dropping, so I’m enjoying a simple reticle with no guilt of untapped potential. Haha
I had to drill a hole for the trigger guard tab (WTF is the purpose of that thing, btw?) and I had to dremel out a small amount of material to get the mag well to fit, and then a little fine tuning to get the mag to drop freely. Easy modification. Hopefully some T1x stocks will start hitting the market.
The Vortex Razor LH 3-15x with G4 reticle is a great little (~16 oz) scope for this one in 17HMR...the round is impotent once it starts dropping, so I’m enjoying a simple reticle with no guilt of untapped potential. Haha
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Where were you last week? I just bought one off eBay because I have a ctr and wanted a trainer. I justified the purchase because I was getting a spare mag. Heck I might need another in 17
Mornin man... I sold my CTR Factory stock/metal/mag on EBay for 130 and they payed shipping. If you do not sell much, EBay will hit you with a $20ish fee though, so keep that in mind.
I'm using a 12 inch Arca rail of ebay, slight curve when I installed it, but works with all of my Arca attachments including a tripod with a 4 inch clamp. This Arca rail allows some flex to follow the forend.
On my Vudoo, I ran two rail sections, a 6 inch and an 8 inch, but the one 12 inch is a cleaner look.
Ed
The Arca Rail issue is what has kept me from pulling the trigger on the Oryx. The clamp slides and locks up on that rail even with the curve, eh? Interesting... ?
For those looking for a high quality full length pic scope rail, don't forget about Murphy Precision. Theirs is made in Stainless Steel, not aluminum (with a titanium option) and comes in black gun kote or bead blasted. It's not quite as high as the Tacord and it's a full length rail unlike the DIP rail. I have several DIP Rails on my Ruger American Rimfires, and they are solid... But the aluminum is soft and the anodizing isn't as durable as the gunkote by Murphy. They don't allow for single mount use, either. I'm glad I spent the extra $ on my Murphy. You can also go with just about any custom MOA cant you want... Cameron makes them to order. Mine is 30 MOA and is perfect. Easily the nicest rail on any of my Rimfires, Kidd and Volquartsen included.
I'm pretty happy with my T3X CTR Bolt Handle, do you guys know where I would get basically the exact same thing for my T1X?
The Sterk Swept Ball Handle looks fantastic, but if I'm going to do that for the T1X, then I want to do it for my T3X, and that doubles the cost.
The Sterk Swept Ball Handle looks fantastic, but if I'm going to do that for the T1X, then I want to do it for my T3X, and that doubles the cost.
16" appears to either not have been released yet or is Europe market only.
Added the KRG tool-less buttpad height mechanism and the hook cover. I did the cover in black instead of FDE for some flair. ?
The tool-less buttpad is 14" from trigger to pad w/ no spacers. One spacer w/o the tool-less mechanism was 13.5" trigger to pad. It's really nice and works well.
kineticresearchgroup.com
Added the KRG tool-less buttpad height mechanism and the hook cover. I did the cover in black instead of FDE for some flair. ?
The tool-less buttpad is 14" from trigger to pad w/ no spacers. One spacer w/o the tool-less mechanism was 13.5" trigger to pad. It's really nice and works well.
Tool-less Buttpad Height Mechanism – Kinetic Research Group
kineticresearchgroup.com No other maker is offering a swept ball handle for the t1x. There is a straight ball handle from High Velocity Hunting, but because the handle screws on, a bent handle is a challenge - unless the thread is 'timed' a screw on bent handle could end up pointing in any direction.
For the T3 these are the options:
Brownells Tikka Plastic knob extension: $49.99US
Glades Armory Swept Ball: $59.99US
Sterk swept ball: $68US
Anarchy outdoors: $59.99US handle + $34.99 round knob = $94.98US
