Negative. I called Tikka and they want me to send it in, and they'll pay shipping. I'm thinking about disassembling the bolt to see if there is grease or something getting in the way of the firing pin? I would rather not send it in if it's a simple fix and not something bad like headspacing.
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
Negative. I called Tikka and they want me to send it in, and they'll pay shipping. I'm thinking about disassembling the bolt to see if there is grease or something getting in the way of the firing pin? I would rather not send it in if it's a simple fix and not something bad like headspacing.
Wanted to share if anyone is interested. Its quite hard to get a hold of a bravo, MDT or oryx in europe, without paying tons of tax and import duties (since few days ago MDT and oryx is not shipping to europe via triangular shipping anymore).
I bought a old stock gen1 MDT LSS tikka chassis in Long Action (LA) and managed to mill it, it fits perfectly and i can even adjust the trigger without removing the chassis
Will post some more pics once mounted.
Best of all is that it will still fit big caliber T3 without any functional problem.
I bought a old stock gen1 MDT LSS tikka chassis in Long Action (LA) and managed to mill it, it fits perfectly and i can even adjust the trigger without removing the chassis
Will post some more pics once mounted.
Best of all is that it will still fit big caliber T3 without any functional problem.
Attachments
Last edited:
Be careful with boats, I have read of a lot of folks having accidents with boats loaded with guns.
-Please give a photo of the bolt head with the firing pin pushed out
-Does firing on an empty .22 case make any marks on it?
-Is the bolt extremely loose to handle (spring/spring holder damage)
-Does anything rattle inside the bolt?
-Is the firing pin launched by pulling the trigger? (Could sear engagement be the issue?)
How is that attached? Do you have a mini arc rail in the middle of your rifle?
Using this for now. Going to move to the ARCA rail when I decide on a solution for my bipod attachment.
M-LOK® Tripod Adapter
The M-LOK Tripod Adapter for metal M-LOK compatible hand guards or forends mounts directly onto any tripod head equipped with the common Manfrotto RC2/Q2 interface. This adapter allows the user to mount their rifle directly to a tripod head without the use of any additional saddles giving them a...
www.magpul.com 
Take those and remove the middle seam. Then use some 3M velcro backing to attach to the rifle. Like this.
I wasn't 100% happy with this location because it made it more difficult to carry the rifle with one hand. I move the older to this spot and it works much better and I'm satisfied now.
I don't even have a boat. ?
Got some Long Range Match yesterday, and shot 30 rounds through it but didn't notice any significant difference from my SK Standard Plus. I bought a pack of 500 so I'll have a bit to play with...
I have 100 rounds of Pistol King coming to play around with too. So far Eley Biathlon has shot the best @ 100.
I have 100 rounds of Pistol King coming to play around with too. So far Eley Biathlon has shot the best @ 100.
Man, that is some fantastic work.Wanted to share if anyone is interested. Its quite hard to get a hold of a bravo, MDT or oryx in europe, without paying tons of tax and import duties (since few days ago MDT and oryx is not shipping to europe via triangular shipping anymore).
I bought a old stock gen1 MDT LSS tikka chassis in Long Action (LA) and managed to mill it, it fits perfectly and i can even adjust the trigger without removing the chassis
Will post some more pics once mounted.
Best of all is that it will still fit big caliber T3 without any functional problem.
Littlepod, you are amazing. You not only have a nail driver, you have a "finishing nail" driver.
Thanks! I've been trying to get better every week as I practice fundamentals. Some days I'm shakier than other days, if it's colder, mosquitos biting me, but still try to improve. Currently I'm working on setting up my rifle to the natural point of aim so follow through and recoil (less so on the 22) align properly for more precision. The heart beat causing left & right shaking when I'm in prone I'm still trying to time properly.
Also I don't like the Athlon Ares BTR reticle, I think I'll swap to get another Ares ETR to get the floating dot. The cross hair reticle, depending on the type of target sometimes gets messy with the target. I really love the open space of the floating dot.
I'm still having 1 FTE every 100-150 or so rounds. I also noticed, sometimes seating the magazine when the bolt is closed causes the first round to have issues feeding sometimes. If I load the magazine with the bolt open, it's always smooth.
I started to at the end to help the black on black issues. It did help, I should've probably done that from the start.
I had to work on my Tikka 17 HMR ejector yesterday. I got it fixed but wasn't has easy as the 22. I have photos with explanation I will post later on in a separate thread. Shot 300 rounds through it yesterday with some interesting results plus 20% blown necks for the first time with one type. Accuracy wise, extremely happy with the results.
Nice I have been thinking seriously about one of the 17's just really wish I could get a lefty.
This is totally a guess but I would be Tikka is working on a left hand model for both calibers now and I would bet they will offer a stainless version.
I'm holding out on the 22 till the 16" is available. But I might get impatient, get one and chop the barrel. That one's for the kids. Worst casei get the 17 right hand the kids can shoot it too
I'm just going to shoot this one out, and get a 16-18" IBI barrel I think. I do like those carbon fiber tensioned bull barrels I have on one of my 22's. How many rounds though until a 22LR barrel gets shot out? 20,000?
So I guess I'll never replace my barrel lol.
How’s your PWS?
Had one and sold it.
Trigger was amazing
Cycling the action slow wasn’t very fun.
The trigger is amazing! I don't know what they did to that trigger... mine's a very crisp 1.5 lb trigger. I just ordered a ruger 10/22 competition for my fiance since she's a lefty and I can't find a good lefty bolt. And I heard even those triggers aren't that great. I might have to then send that trigger out to Brimstone and spend $90 on their trigger job... we'll see.
What do you mean cycling the action slow? Doesn't it cycle faster than a bolt? I used it for my first NRL22 competition before I got my T1X. I wish I bought a Victor Titan for it instead of the Magpul X22 though.
I'm curious how precise it is... I haven't shot it since I got my Tikka T1X and I've improved my fundamentals quite a bit. I also moved that Athlon Ares BTR to my Tikka T1X and put in low rings so no quick detach. I have an old Weaver 3-10x on the PWS, and at 10x it's just not close enough for me to really be certain I'm on the bullseye. I did a 6x5 with SK+ with it @ 100 yards and was at 1.3".
I ordered another Ares ETR for my T1X to match my T3X, so I'll move the BTR over to the PWS to test it out in a week or so once the ETR comes in.
Log into Facebook
Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.
www.facebook.com Some pics up on my page of Sterk T1X accessories. I'm a massive fan of John's products and a pretty early adopter of the T3 curved bolt handles, all my T3's have them fitted (7 and counting lol).
As soon as I had a heads up he was working on T1X bolt handles and shrouds I had nil hesitation in placing my order.
As with all Sterk accessories there were no nasty WTF moments with the install. All up 5min and had everything on and that included unlocking the safe and moving a rifle or two out of the way to pull the T1X out.
My thoughts on each piece follow;
Ti muzzle thread cap - Nothing much to say, screwed on without issue, I ordered the cap that extends out past the crown a bit. Cerakoted and knurled, big improvement over the plastic factory job!
Bolt Shroud - A little smaller and more streamlined than plastic factory job. Fit is fantastic! Fitting process below. Again pics on my page comparing the two.
Take spring pressure off shroud
Push out a 3mm pin
Remove old shroud and red cocking indicator
Refit cocking indicator to Sterk Shroud
Line everything up, compress spring
Re-insert 3mm pin
Done
Bent Bolt Handle - Pics comparing handle on T1X and T3 Sterk Bolt handle on my page. Fit and finish is excellent and Sterk has done an outstanding job of solving the problem of fitting a curved bolt handle to the T1X.
Feels way better than standard handle and the fact that I've been using Sterk's bent bolts on my T3's since their release meant that cycling the bolt now is like shaking hands with an old mate!
Last edited:
Super excited to get my Sterk swept back for my T3X and T1X. I've been checking my AUS shipping label everyday It's not moving very fast though...
It's not moving very fast though...Trigger was the best thing about the action.
What I meant was that the action liked to be cycled as fast as possible. Cycling slow when hunting caused it to hang up a little or take more effort.
For me the victor stock didn’t work as well for the rifle. It felt too small and crowded my hand when trying to manipulate the action on the PWS.
Might end up with one from VQ but get it this time in 17hm2
Ahh. I haven't shot it enough to really test out the action. I bought it 5 years ago, then I had some life events that I stopped shooting till about 2 months ago when I started NRL22 and got the T1X. If they had a Bravo like stock for it, I would have done that, but I couldn't find a solid stock with a good adjustable cheek rest to get the right cheek weld. No 'value' options for a 10/22 stock with adjustable cheek rest that I could find. The Magpul X22 I bought at Cabelas just so I could have a stock with a bipod mount for the NRL22 competition, it originally came in that wood stock.
i can't believe how much VQ is charging.. $1100ish. I got mine for $715 when I bought it.
Went out to the range today again and shot probably 200 rounds of 22, and 10 rounds of 308 .. So $20 of 22 and $10 of 308 I didn't continue with the 308 because accuracy was falling off, haven't cleaned it yet after 250 rounds, and the npoa/scope cant didn't feel right.
Anyhow, shot another 60 rounds of SK Long Range Match, and Another 60 rounds of SK+ doing 6x5's @ 100 yards, and also shot out at 200 yards on a 2.5" spinner I set up. It's great to be able to see the little impact on the berm where I setup the 2.5" spinner and make adjustments. I was able to hit the spinner 60% of the time.
With a 25 yard zero, I'm running 2.1 mil up for 100 yards, and 7.9mil up for 200 yards.
Haven't quite gotten the right BC/Velocity factor yet to properly get the perfect curve to match what I'm seeing at the range.
I'm not noticing any real difference in POI from the SK LR Match vs SK+, shooting @ 100 yards, my POI was pretty much identical between the 2 ammo.
All 6x5's of my LR Match came around 1.09-1.2 MOA.
All 6x5's of my SK+ have been 0.9-1.0 MOA
Another 300 rounds of LR Match to test out. But at least for 100 yards, it isn't worth the almost double in price cost...
SK+, average 0.96 MOA
SK LR Match, average 1.09 MOA
.. So $20 of 22 and $10 of 308 I didn't continue with the 308 because accuracy was falling off, haven't cleaned it yet after 250 rounds, and the npoa/scope cant didn't feel right.Anyhow, shot another 60 rounds of SK Long Range Match, and Another 60 rounds of SK+ doing 6x5's @ 100 yards, and also shot out at 200 yards on a 2.5" spinner I set up. It's great to be able to see the little impact on the berm where I setup the 2.5" spinner and make adjustments. I was able to hit the spinner 60% of the time.
With a 25 yard zero, I'm running 2.1 mil up for 100 yards, and 7.9mil up for 200 yards.
Haven't quite gotten the right BC/Velocity factor yet to properly get the perfect curve to match what I'm seeing at the range.
I'm not noticing any real difference in POI from the SK LR Match vs SK+, shooting @ 100 yards, my POI was pretty much identical between the 2 ammo.
All 6x5's of my LR Match came around 1.09-1.2 MOA.
All 6x5's of my SK+ have been 0.9-1.0 MOA
Another 300 rounds of LR Match to test out. But at least for 100 yards, it isn't worth the almost double in price cost...
SK+, average 0.96 MOA
SK LR Match, average 1.09 MOA
Did the match yesterday. Ended up tying w/ a guy for exact middle of the pack. Five ahead of us and five behind us.
It was a very demanding COF consisting of 50 shot strings in under 6 minutes with fifty shots at 100, 125, 175, 200 a position change and then 50, 75, 125, and 210. During sight in I was able to hit and get dope of all the long range targets from the first series of fire but did not get dope for the second series except at 210. Which I was thrilled when I hit it during sight in.
During the actual COF I was unable to finish the 10 targets/50 shots/position change on any of the four COF which consisted of different positions/obstacles each COF. We shot prone at both positions in the first COF. 2nd was off a 50 gallon barrel and then weak side prone at the 2nd position. 3rd COF was off a tripod then position change to inside or off of a trailer converted from a old pick up bed. 4th was just prone short to far. This was the only time I even came close to finishing all targets.
50yds = Know your own limits. *know your limit targets were given points for all hits. No need to stop to keep points.
75yds = small steel targets on straps
125 = 5 small steel reactive "hostage" targets and two larger targets w/ a small reactive bulls eye. You lost a point for hitting white on any of the 5 small reactive "hostage" targets.
210 = 6" steel targets. There were two and you alternated between the two shooting a total of 5 rounds.
100 = Know you limits targets. *know your limit targets were given points for all hits. No need to stop to keep points.
125 = Piano keys target. All were painted white except the center key which was black. You only scored if you hit black AND made it spin one full rotation. This was by far the most difficult target for EVERYONE including those with more experience than the others.
175 = Steel targets hanging from straps.
200 = Steel targets hanging from straps.
*This is how I recall the COF and distances from memory. I may be confused. ?
I scored 47 total hits. Winner scored 119 total hits. Last place was 15. This would be out of a total of 200 possible hits with a negative score possible if you hit too many hostages and no other targets. One fellow left after 3 COFs and still scored 100+. Would likely have won by a lot if he stayed, especially since the last COF was the easiest by far. IIRC he scored 33 and 37 on the first two COF.
I was the only T1x/Tikka. There were a couple of Voodoos and Anschutz. One really nice Remington bolt action. A couple of 10/22s, a couple Ruger RPR .22, one MP 15-22 and one AR-15 .22 upper. All the bolts beat all the semis.
It was an excellent experience with all shooters/ROs giving advice and loaning equipment when necessary. The only downside was the 90* temps and long day. But will be doing again as it's the most fun I've ever had shooting. Period.
It was a very demanding COF consisting of 50 shot strings in under 6 minutes with fifty shots at 100, 125, 175, 200 a position change and then 50, 75, 125, and 210. During sight in I was able to hit and get dope of all the long range targets from the first series of fire but did not get dope for the second series except at 210. Which I was thrilled when I hit it during sight in.
During the actual COF I was unable to finish the 10 targets/50 shots/position change on any of the four COF which consisted of different positions/obstacles each COF. We shot prone at both positions in the first COF. 2nd was off a 50 gallon barrel and then weak side prone at the 2nd position. 3rd COF was off a tripod then position change to inside or off of a trailer converted from a old pick up bed. 4th was just prone short to far. This was the only time I even came close to finishing all targets.
50yds = Know your own limits. *know your limit targets were given points for all hits. No need to stop to keep points.
75yds = small steel targets on straps
125 = 5 small steel reactive "hostage" targets and two larger targets w/ a small reactive bulls eye. You lost a point for hitting white on any of the 5 small reactive "hostage" targets.
210 = 6" steel targets. There were two and you alternated between the two shooting a total of 5 rounds.
100 = Know you limits targets. *know your limit targets were given points for all hits. No need to stop to keep points.
125 = Piano keys target. All were painted white except the center key which was black. You only scored if you hit black AND made it spin one full rotation. This was by far the most difficult target for EVERYONE including those with more experience than the others.
175 = Steel targets hanging from straps.
200 = Steel targets hanging from straps.
*This is how I recall the COF and distances from memory. I may be confused. ?
I scored 47 total hits. Winner scored 119 total hits. Last place was 15. This would be out of a total of 200 possible hits with a negative score possible if you hit too many hostages and no other targets. One fellow left after 3 COFs and still scored 100+. Would likely have won by a lot if he stayed, especially since the last COF was the easiest by far. IIRC he scored 33 and 37 on the first two COF.
I was the only T1x/Tikka. There were a couple of Voodoos and Anschutz. One really nice Remington bolt action. A couple of 10/22s, a couple Ruger RPR .22, one MP 15-22 and one AR-15 .22 upper. All the bolts beat all the semis.
It was an excellent experience with all shooters/ROs giving advice and loaning equipment when necessary. The only downside was the 90* temps and long day. But will be doing again as it's the most fun I've ever had shooting. Period.
That's so awesome! NRL22 competition got cancelled yesteday, but going to try for 2 silhouette matches next weekend and the weekend after...
For the tripod COF, that means you need to bring your own tripod? Never done any tripod work before...
For the tripod COF, that means you need to bring your own tripod? Never done any tripod work before...
I have my own and used it. But they had one w/ a hog saddle for everyone to use. I used mine because I've shot off of it and have a Magpul mount on the tripod and rifle. You could literally borrow anyone's stuff as the people were extremely nice and helpful. This mimics most all shooting match experiences I've heard from others. If you're interested in signing up, do it and don't worry too much about what equipment you need and don't have. Just show up and shoot. You'll quickly learn what you need and don't need and everyone is so willing to let you use theirs. It's almost as if they want you to use theirs so you can see how great it is. ?
Super fantastic experience. Just do it.
Yeh I'm excited! All I've so far on the Tikka is shoot on different height barricades with my mini fortune cookie, and I've been practicing precision in prone. I have no problem hitting 2" targets @ 100 on barricades, standing or kneeling. I will practice some standing/kneeling with a sling probably this week. I need to figure out the right dope for my ammo.
Right now SK+
25 yd zero
100 yd, 2.1 mil up.
200 yd, 8mil up.
I need to get some software that'll map out that curve to see what everything in between and after might be... what ammo are you shooting?
I shot CCI SV. Definitely subsonic and similar DOPE as yours. A lot of the people were shooting Lapua Center X, especially the more experienced shooters. I was the highest placing low end ammo user. The guy I tied with was using Center X as well as everyone else who placed better than me except one SK+ and one RWS Spec. Match which I'm not familiar with.
I HIGHLY recommend, and will be ordering, the DOPE card attachment for your rifle for quick reference. There is an obvious advantage for those using one.
Let me know which one you get, I have everything in my head or on my phone, but it's getting tedious memorizing it all.
CCI SV does run pretty similar to SK+ I think last time I shot it, I was dialing like 2.3 mil up and 8.2 mil up at 200 yards. Maybe a 20fps difference from SK+ (1050 vs 1070)
CCI SV does run pretty similar to SK+ I think last time I shot it, I was dialing like 2.3 mil up and 8.2 mil up at 200 yards. Maybe a 20fps difference from SK+ (1050 vs 1070)
Lots of options from $22-$200 and make your own. Wouldn't be too difficult if money is tight. I went w/ the Sidewinder because I think it's what will work best for me and I don't have to source any of the parts to DIY.
Going to give this one a try.
bulletcentral.com
X-Ring Rail Mounted Data System| PRS Data Card Holder
The perfect PRS data card holder. It attaches to your picatinny rail, and can move in any direction so you don't have to worry about it being in the way.
bulletcentral.com 
Here is the one I have been using. What I do is write my stage number and dope for that stage on address labels the night before the match when the COF is sent out. This takes a lot of pressure off me at the match. While everyone is scrambling to find out the ranges and dope for each stage I just stick my address label on my dope holder. You are also a lot less likely to make a mistake relaxing in your chair at home vs scrambling at a match. This is especially true if you have 5-6 elevation changes in a stage. The address labels stick to and peal off clean from the aluminum surface of the card.
I really like that one and it's made locally to me. But I don't have room on my Picatinny rail for it.
I received My Sterk Swept bolt today. I will tell you it was worth the wait. Very very well constructed. Looks amazing. It makes lifting the bolt from the bench, in my opinion about 50% easier. it was worth every freaking penny.
Last edited:
Damn that looks good! You guys are making me want one now.
Whew... I was going to say that install didn't look as good as I wanted it to look
Very excited to look like @cannoncrossfire 's picture Haha I put just a bit of hard work into it, wouldn't put something out any less than perfect.Whew... I was going to say that install didn't look as good as I wanted it to look
@cannoncrossfire Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!. I was excited to receive the handle. I took it back off and put it on right. While doing it my dumb ass cockced the bolt. Hence it will not go into the receiver. So anyone with a video on how decock the bolt. I looked on you tube and could not find one.
Also, The number of times that @cannoncrossfire company contacted me about the shipping and confirming that it was received has honestly been above and beyond. I got an email when shipped when hitting customs, the day it was supposed to be delivered and confirming that I actually got it. Great product, maybe even better customer service.
Also, The number of times that @cannoncrossfire company contacted me about the shipping and confirming that it was received has honestly been above and beyond. I got an email when shipped when hitting customs, the day it was supposed to be delivered and confirming that I actually got it. Great product, maybe even better customer service.
Mine just left
Mine just left Aus today. I wonder how long it'll take to get here and pass customs... I can't wait.
Mine just left Aus today. I wonder how long it'll take to get here and pass customs... I can't wait.
Mine took like 6-7 days went right through customs, like 2-3 days to Ohio.
Mine must've been sent out at the time, as it just left Australia today too. Can't wait to get it in hand.
Still waiting for an in stock notice from Europtics...
Why not just PM cannoncrossfire and get an invoice directly from AUS? You'll save a good deal. $95 AUS = $68 USD.
@Jefe's Dope keep in mind it's not their fault if goods haven't reached them yet, the people receiving parts are going to be the ones that shipped a week or two ago.
